Guidelines for posting C-Dory for sale on site

- Get the administrators to set you up with a photo album so you can post photos of your boat.

- Post a listing of equipment on your boat. Ie, Twin or single engine, brand, hp, hours. What standard equipment comes with your boat, and what extras you are leaving on it. What electronics comes on it. Fenders? Life Jackets? Anchors? Bimini? Cover? Trailer? Some specifics about the trailer like single or double axle, year, brand. etc.

- Check back often as you will get replies of folks looking. (We've seen some folks register, list their boats, and then not check back...)

- Be honest with your postings and replies.
 
Colby has it covered pretty well. Be sure to post the ad in the C-Dory Boats For Sale By Owner forum so it shows up on the front page list.

Also, there is no need for an album if you use the Add an Attachment feature available in the for sale forum. It is actually easier to include the pictures that way than uploading to the site and embedding the pictures.
 
What are some of the best ways to appraise your 22' 2005 C-Dory for sale to be realistic. It has 224 hours on a 90hp Honda. I don't want to be so low that I'm embarrassed by the price, nor do I want to be ridiculously high!

Also, as a "for sale by owner", how do you protect against someone driving away with your boat without paying? A friend got a fraudulent certified check!
Thank you,
David Verrill, Betterton, Maryland
 
jodaverrill@gmail.com":2r2klyq0 said:
... Also, as a "for sale by owner", how do you protect against someone driving away with your boat without paying? A friend got a fraudulent certified check! ...
Click to expand...

Certified checks are easy to fake these days.

Have a wire transfer done to your bank or cash (also verified as legit by your bank). Once the transfer is completed or the cash checked then give the buyer the keys/title to the boat. Any buyer who baulks at any of this should be viewed with suspicion.
 
Not all banks will easily do wire transfers either. Mine was reluctant because they felt that it would be too easy for the seller to back out after they had the money. On the other side, when I sold my boat, I thought cashier's checks were pretty safe. My buyer gave me a cashiers check over a holiday, and then first business day, my bank called asked me several questions. They stated the cashiers check didn't look like a normal one, and was afraid it was a fake. (In the end the check was good. I also had good gut feelings about the buyer from earlier conversations, and verifying his employer thru the internet.) I guess the best way is to transfer cash and title at the same time at a bank that can ascertain the authencity of the bills. Or, trust your senses on the buyer. When I bought my new boat, I had my credit union overnight a check and told my seller I would wait until he received the check before taking title and boat. With previous down payment transactions, and he also being able to personally talk to my bank and get a copy of what was being mailed out along with tracking info, he decided to trust me with the boat and title, and I left that afternoon with it. He got payment as planned the next day. Another option if you are really concerned or nervous about selling, you can always consign the boat with a dealer.
As for pricing your boat, review all comparable boats for sale, what they were asking, and what they actually sold for. (You'll probably have to check with the seller/buyer to see what the actual paid was.) My 2007 CD-22 with a Merc 115 and Tohatsu 6hp Kicker, with a chartplotter, tandem axle aluminum trailer (electric brakes), anchor windless, bimini, camper back and full sunbrella cover that was trailerable, sold for $38,000, my asking price. That was two years ago. At the time there were two other similar boats in my area (with twins) that sold in the same price range. If your boat is clean with no problems, with a good trailer, I'd guess post it at $40,000, and see what action you get. (Have a gut price you're not willing to go below. Perhaps $36,000?) Now is a great time to get it on the market. Colby
 
I have used only wire transfer, with a few exceptions--and that is where I "know" or someone I trust "knows" the individual.

The way we work it, is there is a 10% down to hold the boat, refundable pending survey, inspection and sea trial. After the boat is accepted, I have the wire transfer set up on a single use account (not my main account). The bank is called and given the "OK" to do the transfer. Once the money is in the seller's account--verified at his bank, then the title and keys etc are handed over.

I have done similar with cashier's checks--that is have the bank set up to verify to the buyer's bank that the cashier's check is valid.

I bank with a semi local/regional bank, where everyone in the branch knows me, and if I am going to do a transfer of funds, I alert all of the employees who may be dealing with the transfer.

I had a terrible experience with B of A. I was buying a trawler (a bit North of most C Dory prices--but the new Tom Cat and 25 are getting in that arena. I had a letter of credit from my branch to the local branch where I was purchasing the boat. I gave the funds to the broker, and assumed all was well. NOT SO. B of A put a freeze on all of my accounts to the amount of the letter of credit--and that froze my credit card--I could not pay for meals, or lodging. Fortunately I have more than one credit card. B of A lost my business.

In the C Dory world dealing with owners, there is a good degree of trust. Dealing with certain brokers--not so much so!

Be safe.
 
On a sale of a boat that size we have met at the bank and had the buyer bring their bank check and then once it is verified that is is cleared give them the title. It usually only takes a few minutes for the bank to verify.

Rob
 
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