Generator use while underway.
- Thread starter pcator
- Start date
pcator-
I have used my Honda EU 1000i underway on my CD-22 Cruiser, setting it on the cooler which itsef is placed at the back of the cockpit. I use it like this to recharge my batteries after trolling for a few hours or more with my (main) engine mounted trolling motor.
I've not had any trouble with this arrangement, and I've been very careful to note any fumes, though you can't count on smelling them.
I do employ a carbon monoxide detector in the cabin, too.
What one has to be aware of, in addition to all the carbon monoxide dangers, is the "station wagon effect".
This is where an open rear window (door on the boat) pulls in air from the rear of the vehicle because of the lower pressure back there due to the vehicle's shape traveling through the wind.
You have two choices to deal with this:
One is to open all windows and hatches so the flow is into the cabin and then out the back door.
The second is to simply shut the back door to block any incoming air, and then get some positive ventilation with windows and hatches.
Only experimentation will tell you which one works with your boat, but be sure to understand that the airflow through the cabin changes constantly with the angle of the wind's variation to the boat. A light ribbon tell-tale hung in the doorway would be a partial indicator of the airflow there.
I do think it is possible to run the generator with the boat underway, but extreme care must be taken.
Running the generator on the swim step may not be an option due to the sea conditions, and the in-cockpit positioning should have the generator up high enough that the exhaust vent is as higher than the gunnels as well as as near the edges of the boat as feasible as well. My positioning (as noted above) blows the exhaust out over the engine well to help clear it aft.
In your case, you're probably going to be running the generator to power the A/C, so you will have a closed cabin. Be sure to have some positive fresh air inlet and not be sucking air in past the cabin door.
What type of A/C arrangement do you have?
I'm sure some will disagree with parts or all of this!
Joe.
I have used my Honda EU 1000i underway on my CD-22 Cruiser, setting it on the cooler which itsef is placed at the back of the cockpit. I use it like this to recharge my batteries after trolling for a few hours or more with my (main) engine mounted trolling motor.
I've not had any trouble with this arrangement, and I've been very careful to note any fumes, though you can't count on smelling them.
I do employ a carbon monoxide detector in the cabin, too.
What one has to be aware of, in addition to all the carbon monoxide dangers, is the "station wagon effect".
This is where an open rear window (door on the boat) pulls in air from the rear of the vehicle because of the lower pressure back there due to the vehicle's shape traveling through the wind.
You have two choices to deal with this:
One is to open all windows and hatches so the flow is into the cabin and then out the back door.
The second is to simply shut the back door to block any incoming air, and then get some positive ventilation with windows and hatches.
Only experimentation will tell you which one works with your boat, but be sure to understand that the airflow through the cabin changes constantly with the angle of the wind's variation to the boat. A light ribbon tell-tale hung in the doorway would be a partial indicator of the airflow there.
I do think it is possible to run the generator with the boat underway, but extreme care must be taken.
Running the generator on the swim step may not be an option due to the sea conditions, and the in-cockpit positioning should have the generator up high enough that the exhaust vent is as higher than the gunnels as well as as near the edges of the boat as feasible as well. My positioning (as noted above) blows the exhaust out over the engine well to help clear it aft.
In your case, you're probably going to be running the generator to power the A/C, so you will have a closed cabin. Be sure to have some positive fresh air inlet and not be sucking air in past the cabin door.
What type of A/C arrangement do you have?
I'm sure some will disagree with parts or all of this!
Joe.
Jeff Brigner
New member
pcator":2wgz3x5s said:
I have not seen any posts about running generators underway on a 25 and am also interested in a good solution. I have tried running them in the cockpit but the air gets stale fast even while moving. I wish they made a cooler rack for the 25's like they do the 22's. I think this would be a great spot to secure them and run while underway. I would be interested in jumping in if anyone else would like a cooler rack made for a 25 and add one to the order. We run 2 Honda 2000's. I believe Dr Bob runs his on the swim step on a crate to elevate it but it's a totally different game on the Tom Cats. The total weight of the 2 Honda 2000's is only around 100 lbs so I don't think that's a problem on a well constructed cooler rack and probably less weight than a kicker hanging back there.
I use mine all summer while underway to keep the AC online. Have used for 100 mile trips offshore the 3000 Honda does not care. It sits on the baitwell and I attach it to the rails with 2 straps so it can not fall. There is a CO monitor in the cabin which alarms sometimes if it goes off I just open the front window and back door to air the cabin.
Joe
Joe
Joe
I have a roof top A/C unit. Also have 3 CO2 detecters in the cabin and V-berth. One is DC, the others Batteries.
Jeff
I would be interested in a cooler rack for the 25. Do you know what it would look like and how much we are looking at? I would like one that will break down so that I can use the swim step when needed.
Thanks everyone for the input.
Patrick
I have a roof top A/C unit. Also have 3 CO2 detecters in the cabin and V-berth. One is DC, the others Batteries.
Jeff
I would be interested in a cooler rack for the 25. Do you know what it would look like and how much we are looking at? I would like one that will break down so that I can use the swim step when needed.
Thanks everyone for the input.
Patrick
Jeff Brigner
New member
Patrick
This is one on a 22 delivered by Wefings. It looks like it would break down. I lifted this picture from the album of Ashley Lynn in the delivery album. I will e-mail them and see if we can get some info on this. If so I don't see why the bracket couldn't be modified to fit a 25. This is another pic from the cockpit
Jeff Brigner
New member
ShiRoz just got his rack intstalled. It looks good but doesn't look like you could take it out. It definitely looks sturdy enough.
I would only run the generator when going slowly on the Tom Cat (less than 7 knots). Looking at the photos which Jeff supplied, it appears that SS pipe and standard top fittings can be used to make this type of rack--and it would not be expensive. The SS pipe could be easily removed with quick release fittings. I'll probably make one when the cockpit floor is finished. (We had rain yesterday, so the glass didn't go down--it will be glassed today, then the finish has to be done.)
One might want to put a piece of Starboard on the top of the rack for the generator, and one could put straps on to hold the generator in place.
I agree that at slow speeds or in calm water that one could use the generator on the CD 22 lazaratte hatch.
Although the Honda, has a plastic cover, I would really be concerned about the spray. I have an 800 watt Honda--about 30 years old now and it has over 150,000 sea miles, where I have lugged it around. Still runs well, but some rust on the case and exhaust etc. I never used it in direct spray etc.
One might want to put a piece of Starboard on the top of the rack for the generator, and one could put straps on to hold the generator in place.
I agree that at slow speeds or in calm water that one could use the generator on the CD 22 lazaratte hatch.
Although the Honda, has a plastic cover, I would really be concerned about the spray. I have an 800 watt Honda--about 30 years old now and it has over 150,000 sea miles, where I have lugged it around. Still runs well, but some rust on the case and exhaust etc. I never used it in direct spray etc.
hi ya'll 
the guy patrick is talking about is in Lavergne, Tn. his name is Todd Box and his phone is 615-287-9980 and his fax is 615-287-9985. EXCELLENT aluminum work 8) did my arch in three days time and it was around $450.00 deliverd and fits the contour of Gypsie's roof line perfectly. Todd came out and messured on tuesday and i had it in hand thursday 8) did i say 3 days :?: never could keep up with days :lol:
c u later
mike
the guy patrick is talking about is in Lavergne, Tn. his name is Todd Box and his phone is 615-287-9980 and his fax is 615-287-9985. EXCELLENT aluminum work 8) did my arch in three days time and it was around $450.00 deliverd and fits the contour of Gypsie's roof line perfectly. Todd came out and messured on tuesday and i had it in hand thursday 8) did i say 3 days :?: never could keep up with days :lol:
c u later
mike
I just read most of this bulletin about CO and I suggest everyone else read it also. There are many ways, apparently, of building up toxic levels of CO. Seems to me the generator exhaust should be outside the boat and below the gunwales at all times.
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/coboati ... isting.pdf
- Bill -
http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/topics/coboati ... isting.pdf
- Bill -
Bill---Very good and timely information for us . We are planning on using a generator on board for the first time on our upcoming Alaska trip. After reading through those cases we will now be even more cautious in how we set up and use the generator.wthattny":2r06kjpj said:
Thanks much,
Jay
Pete in NY
New member
Generator wiring: Are you using the generator plugged into the 110v ship to shore and the boats 110 outlets underway? How would or does generator use underway impact the battery charging circuit, the alternator and the power distribution? Is the generator being connected to an isolated circuit or is it being integrated into the electrical system? I found out recently that my separate house refrigerator batteries do not charge off the boats 110v charger when connected to shore poweer but off the engine only. It would be nice to charge them from shore power or increase charging capacity by supllementing the alternator's output with the generator or upgrading to a higher capacity charger to charge the whole works from the boats charger.
How should this be wired? I have two starting batteries on a selector switch and two separate refrigerator batteries that charge off the engine's alternator but do not connect to the #1 or #2 starting /house batteries. The boat wiring was set up like this by Three River's Marine, the former Florida C-Dory dealer.
How should this be wired? I have two starting batteries on a selector switch and two separate refrigerator batteries that charge off the engine's alternator but do not connect to the #1 or #2 starting /house batteries. The boat wiring was set up like this by Three River's Marine, the former Florida C-Dory dealer.
Agree with Dave, even diesel built in marine generators are not set up to have under water exhaust. Outboards and I/O do, but there is a venturi in the slip stream of the prop, which actually helps to pull the exhaust out better. There are available underwater exhaust attatchments for main inboards, but these have relief holes for slow speed travel.
As far as the set up on the CD 25 and the TC 255: My boats came with only a 5/5 amp charger and only both the starting batteries were set up to charge off 110 volts. I suggest adding a second battery charger (20 to 50 amps) for the house banks--especially if you are running a refigerator. The 5 amp unit will barely keep up with the refer, let alone lights, etc.
Many boats are set up with relays which will start charging the house batteries after the start batteries are being charged. These VSR (volatage sensitative relays) close at about 13.3 volts and open at 12.7 volts. They protect the starting batteries from being drained, and avoid switching the batteries each time you stop the engines. Generally I turn off the charger if I am running a generator underway (I have only done this with my larger boats--I have not run the generator when under way with the C Dory boats).
There are various ways to set the batteries up, and there are threads on this. I happen to like to have one set of batteries for the refigerator or freezer and another single house battery for the lights etc. I have VSR on both engines. My larger charger is on the house banks, and the charger which came with the boat (almost a trickle charge @ 5 amps) is only used on the starting batteries. Now you know why a lot of the owners get their costs of the boats up by adding these type of additions!
As far as the set up on the CD 25 and the TC 255: My boats came with only a 5/5 amp charger and only both the starting batteries were set up to charge off 110 volts. I suggest adding a second battery charger (20 to 50 amps) for the house banks--especially if you are running a refigerator. The 5 amp unit will barely keep up with the refer, let alone lights, etc.
Many boats are set up with relays which will start charging the house batteries after the start batteries are being charged. These VSR (volatage sensitative relays) close at about 13.3 volts and open at 12.7 volts. They protect the starting batteries from being drained, and avoid switching the batteries each time you stop the engines. Generally I turn off the charger if I am running a generator underway (I have only done this with my larger boats--I have not run the generator when under way with the C Dory boats).
There are various ways to set the batteries up, and there are threads on this. I happen to like to have one set of batteries for the refigerator or freezer and another single house battery for the lights etc. I have VSR on both engines. My larger charger is on the house banks, and the charger which came with the boat (almost a trickle charge @ 5 amps) is only used on the starting batteries. Now you know why a lot of the owners get their costs of the boats up by adding these type of additions!