Fuel question

C

cdory25

New member
This has probably been gone over many times but I couldn't find anything using search so I'll put it out there again. We live in Florida from November to May. We have a dock. In May the boat gets put on a trailer and stored in the back yard for the summer. I have the 135 Honda motor. Is there any fuel shutoff or is topping off the tank, treating it with Stabil my only option? My problem is using all 100 gallons the next season. Also don't need the extra 700 pounds when towing. Any feedback for snow bird boaters is welcome.

Thanks!
John
 
Wow - if you don't go through 100 gals in a season, I think you need to use the boat more often when you're there. :lol: For me that's about the fuel usage on one tuna trip.

I'm not sure what I'd do in your situation. I think I'd fill the tanks about 3/4 full add Stabil and run the engine a bit. I assume your Honda is fuel injected so you don't want to run it dry of fuel. There should be a fuel shut off valve between the tank and the engine that you can close. I'd probably have a local mechanic fog the engine to prevent internal rust during long periods of disuse. However, if it were me, I'd try to find some way of running it for an hour or two every couple of months. The engine will last longer with more frequent use.
 
I agree with Roger. I would not fill the tank--in fact I try and leave my tanks as low as possible, so I can fill with fresh gas when I get to use it next. I use Stabil. I avoid ethanol fuel. I also add Startron. I also agree with fogging the engine, and changing the oil in the engine and lower unit before stowing it for the 6 months.

I did this with my 140 Suzuki (injected) ion the Caracal this last year (normally I run it every month)--and it fired off right away on the first crank 9 months later with the old fuel. After a year I would put in new fuel.

Also I re-grease the trailer bearings before storage.
 
John, While viewing the photo of your vessel I see it is equipped with a Honda engine. If the engine is a 2004 model it is most likely equipped with "carburetors". It would be wise, assuming you have used ethanol tainted gasoline, to not only run the fuel system "dry", but also "drain" each individual carburetor bowl prior to storage. Removing all traces of ethanol fuel will prevent clogging of small passages with residue when evaporation occurs.
 
You might consider buying a 12vdc fuel pump like the ones Mr. Gasket sells for in the 30 dollar range. Just attach a hose from the pump to the fuel line that runs to the boats engine and pump into a container and burn the fuel in your car. The fuel selector switch will determine which tank it will pull the gas from if you boat is so equipped. We use Marine Sta-Bil in any gas purchased for the boat or small engines in chain saws, blowers, rototillers generators etc. I second the notion that if you have carburetors running the engine dry and draining the float bowls. I run all of our small engines dry and have had zero trouble on restarts. Fogging the motor can't hurt but just cranking it over once a month should get oil circulating enough to coat things and prevent rust on the valve stems.
D.D.
 
I offload my tanks every fall except for a few gallons and rely on the fuel water separator to take care of any condensation during the next season. So far, I've not found any water collected in the separator.

I also use a high volume fuel pump from the local car parts store with tubing that sucks on the selected fuel tank by moving the port starboard tank valve. I put the fuel in 5 gallon tanks and burn it in my cars. I filter that fuel going into the car tank as it is being pumped. (keep the receiving 5 gallon tanks about 10 feet away from the boat, and keep two decent sized fire extinguishers close at hand. Follow good antistatic practices when using this method.

The residual fuel in the boat tanks is treated with stabil. I've had no problem with first crank starting in 5 seasons.

I try to use no-ethanol fuel, but I'm probably running a 50/50 mix by the time I've used available fuel at different lake destinations during the summer.
 
I gave my opinion based on my belief that the 2004 135 was fuel injected. Looking back thru the internet confirms that. If by some chance the engine is carbureted, then definitely, close the fuel valve, (You should have one)--and run all of the fuel out, then drain each carburetor.

The Honda 70's and 90's did not became injected in 2007. 2004 was the first year for the 135 and 150 which were both fuel injected.
 
John,
First I need to correct my :
The Honda 70's and 90's did not became injected in 2007.
Click to expand...

That should read that the Honda 70's and 90's did not become injected UNTIL 2007.

With the injected engine you have, you do NOT want to run the engine out of fuel. Doing so is bad for the injector pump and injectors. You want to stabilize the fuel (I think that adding Startron is desirable, but that could be argued), and let the fuel system sit. No turing fuel off, no running fuel out of the system. Leave the fuel level low. Condensation should not be a problem, especially with non ethanol gas. Most marina fuel in Florida is non ethanol. You can also find non ethanol stations by looking on "Pure Gas" http://pure-gas.org I try and always run my outboards on non ethanol gas.

I looked at the photos of my 2003 C Dory 25, and I did not see a fuel shut off valve. Places to look would be at the pickup from the tank--, or along the line under the splash pan, to the filter.
 
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