smckean (Tosca)":3klurxcg said:I just had a Victron installed. I'm very happy with it.
Thataway, I looked at that $19 meter link. Certainly is cheaper, but it seems to have a fatal flaw; to wit, if the current reverses (that is, even a short burst of charge such as when you briefly start your engine and the batteries charge briefly), the meter resets itself to zero. At that point you have lost any data as to how many amp-hours you have used. With the Victron, one can also watch the amps flowing back into the battery to see how you are doing in the struggle to replace the amp-hours you used. Again, I take comfort in knowing that I've used, say, 25.6 amp-hours since I was last at 100%, and now that I'm charging, I can watch that negative number melt away amp-hour by amp-hour toward zero.
Not entirely correct from my understanding: If you reverse the flow thru the shunt, it will reset the meter to zero. But if the charging circuits bypass the shunt, it does not reset. Ie: if the negative lead from the battery charger or solar panel go directly to the negative terminal of the battery--the meter keeps reading current outflow. It all depends on what you want to do, and how you manage the battery. For example in my case, I use a 30 amp battery charger driven by the Honda EU 1000I. If it resets, that is fine, since I have read the information before I start the generator. In fact that is my criteria for charge.
There are other flaws--such as the manual reset, and not being waterproof. But I manually reset, since I don't put any charge current thru the shunt.
If I was buying new now, I probably would buy a Victron 702, temperature is useful if you are "pushing" the charge into a battery, and on my RV, there is a temperature sensor, and that feeds back into the charging circuit (charger is capable of 110 amps). A temperature sensor protects the battery from getting too hot. The 702 with temp sensor is going to be about $70 more than the 700. If you wish can read the voltage off the start battery in a number of other ways. My Link reads start battery voltage. If you are running the electronics off the start battery (not recommended), you can read the temp off most MDF's.
If one wanted to use separate instruments to measure current in and out at a specific time, this may be more useful than the single Victron. You would have to wire the second shunt differently to get current in. If the Victron is similar to my Link, you read "net current flow"--that is current flow in less current flow out. For example, you charging source may be putting in 10 amps, and the freezer is drawing 5 amps, you will read a net of 5 amps charging current.
The Vectron is a far better instrument, and what i recommend for most folks. However, I use an isolated battery/bank, for my refer/freezer.