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Fogged windows.
- Thread starter flapbreaker
- Start date
journey on
New member
We use the Caframo Model 747 fan. On the link it's shown as a permanently wired fan. The good thing is that it uses 0.6 amps and puts out a good stream (2 speeds.) Also, for those of you who are so inclined, it has rubber blades. One can purchase replacement blades at West Marine, since apparently I'm so inclined.
I mounted it on a 6" square piece of wood and put a cigarette plug on the end. When we're moving, it's always on, and keeps the windows clear. When we're at anchor, we can run it all night for only 5 amp-hours.
Boris
I mounted it on a 6" square piece of wood and put a cigarette plug on the end. When we're moving, it's always on, and keeps the windows clear. When we're at anchor, we can run it all night for only 5 amp-hours.
Boris
C-Dawg":xeqlsbr8 said:Are those Ecofans placed right on the Wallas burner plate with the lid up?
That was my question -- why is the Ecofan needed when the Wallas has a fan in the lid?
Doryman":m7vxjj0q said:C-Dawg":m7vxjj0q said:Are those Ecofans placed right on the Wallas burner plate with the lid up?
That was my question -- why is the Ecofan needed when the Wallas has a fan in the lid?
Apparently more circulation is needed than provided by the Wallas fan. I know Moose has one and can better answer this question.
I believe the Wallas heater fan is operated when the lid is down, though I'm not a Wallas owner, nor do I play one on TV*, or expect to enjoy one in Hell someday! (I'm hoping that sweet revenge is saved for those who over-engineered that masterpiece!}
Fun jokinin' with ya"!!! (* It's all your fault, Jim. See what you started?!?)
Joe. :thup :teeth
Doryman":1mzcmzgh said:C-Dawg":1mzcmzgh said:Are those Ecofans placed right on the Wallas burner plate with the lid up?
That was my question -- why is the Ecofan needed when the Wallas has a fan in the lid?
Brent and Dixie loaned us their Ecofan when we were in the PNW last summer. It uses less power, since the fan on the Wallas isn't running AND you get better heat distribution. Yes, you put it right on the glass plate of the Wallas; after a short time, it starts turning and does a great job of distributing the warm air through the cabin. When you're at anchor and trying to conserve battery power, it's very functional and efficient.
Best wishes,
Jim
Several different factors are involved in window fogging.
1 - The moisture in your breath, sweat, and cooking/coffee must be cleared from the cabin. Just blowing wet air around is not the answer. Try to set up a natural flow of air from low to high by opening windows a bit, drawing wet air out and drier air into the cabin. If you are moving, crack the front center window and the two front side windows to draw outside air across the inside of the windshield. Also open the back cabin windows a crack to eliminate any moist air back there.
2 - While most soaps do have surface tension reducing components in them, the bath soap bars also have ingredients that are 'thicker' and will hold the surface tension ingredient in place longer than liquid soaps. Take a bar of good bath soap, lather it up and very thickly wipe it onto the windows. Then use a very dry cloth or paper towel or keenex to just wipe the streaks off. That coating will last longer than liquid applications. I , too, use Rain X, but the thick soap application is more resistant to fogging to my experience.
3 - Warm air holds more moisture and the cold temperature of the cabin glass precipitates moisture more than a warm glass. I have tried the 12V defroster fans in heavy fogging/cold situations and they barely keep a small hole open. However, if you turn on the Wallas and blow the Wallas' hot air onto the windows, they will fog less. The Wallas moisture from combustion is vented outside so it will not fog your interior, but portable propane heaters will fill the cabin with moisture from combustion.
So... summary would be to put on a coat, crack the windows, soap the windows, and blow hot air on the windows.
If you have a Honda i2000 genset aboard, get a portable room A/C unit and turn it on "Dehumidify" and your problem is solved!
John
1 - The moisture in your breath, sweat, and cooking/coffee must be cleared from the cabin. Just blowing wet air around is not the answer. Try to set up a natural flow of air from low to high by opening windows a bit, drawing wet air out and drier air into the cabin. If you are moving, crack the front center window and the two front side windows to draw outside air across the inside of the windshield. Also open the back cabin windows a crack to eliminate any moist air back there.
2 - While most soaps do have surface tension reducing components in them, the bath soap bars also have ingredients that are 'thicker' and will hold the surface tension ingredient in place longer than liquid soaps. Take a bar of good bath soap, lather it up and very thickly wipe it onto the windows. Then use a very dry cloth or paper towel or keenex to just wipe the streaks off. That coating will last longer than liquid applications. I , too, use Rain X, but the thick soap application is more resistant to fogging to my experience.
3 - Warm air holds more moisture and the cold temperature of the cabin glass precipitates moisture more than a warm glass. I have tried the 12V defroster fans in heavy fogging/cold situations and they barely keep a small hole open. However, if you turn on the Wallas and blow the Wallas' hot air onto the windows, they will fog less. The Wallas moisture from combustion is vented outside so it will not fog your interior, but portable propane heaters will fill the cabin with moisture from combustion.
So... summary would be to put on a coat, crack the windows, soap the windows, and blow hot air on the windows.
If you have a Honda i2000 genset aboard, get a portable room A/C unit and turn it on "Dehumidify" and your problem is solved!
John
A
Anonymous
Guest
In the recent Passagemaker I came across this site of interest.
www.dryzone.ca , they offer a good looking system which utilizes twin descant trays coupled with some low energy fans. The claims are great but so is the price. Currently these run into the $toomuch range.
(over $4,000) My initial contact with the company went well, quick response, good info etc. They tell me that next year a smaller version is in the works and in 2010 an even smaller unit (more appropriately sized) will be offered.
That leaves lot's of time for fan debates :wink:
Mike
www.dryzone.ca , they offer a good looking system which utilizes twin descant trays coupled with some low energy fans. The claims are great but so is the price. Currently these run into the $toomuch range.
(over $4,000) My initial contact with the company went well, quick response, good info etc. They tell me that next year a smaller version is in the works and in 2010 an even smaller unit (more appropriately sized) will be offered.
That leaves lot's of time for fan debates :wink:
Mike
Sea Wolf":398pce66 said:Doryman":398pce66 said:C-Dawg":398pce66 said:Are those Ecofans placed right on the Wallas burner plate with the lid up?
That was my question -- why is the Ecofan needed when the Wallas has a fan in the lid?
Apparently more circulation is needed than provided by the Wallas fan. I know Moose has one and can better answer this question.
We use the Model 800 Original Ecofan, the two-bladed model. The built-in fan on the Wallas is far more efficient at moving air, but it is noisy. When anchored overnight or for any longer period of time we use the Ecofan. It is dead quiet; all you hear is the pulse of the Wallas fuel pump. We put it on the coolest part of the Wallas, the right-hand edge of the hot plate and have it blow across the ceramic surface. We recommend the Ecofan highly and would not be without it.
Al