Looking at the tiny space called a "chain locker" I'm wondering if anyone has cut out some of the flotation in the bow to enlarge the locker? I need to stow 125' of line and 6' of chain. Present locker is too tight & I'm afraid the line will jam as I try to pay it out.. Many thanks.
Enlarging "chain locker" on a CD 16 Cruiser
- Thread starter jamato323
- Start date
What size line are you using? 3/8 is plenty, maybe even 5/16 is OK for that size boat. 3/16 chain is adequate. You can make a "bulkhead" which will taper upward, and I suspect hold more line than you expect. Pick up the amount you need in 3/8 Brait by New England Cordage. The thicker half inch line will "hand" better, but 3/8 is fine. I used 300 feet of 3/8 for a 12 lb HT danforth on about a dozen boats owned over a period of years. Even used as a "Lunch hook" on a 62 foot 65,000 lb ketch!
I'm using 1/2 braided line but the problem is the locker has a shelf half way up. The available storage upper portion is approx. 6" by 24" with a plywood divider and beneath is floatation foam. Just not enough room to store ground tackle. My question still is "are other 16's (mine is a 2003) like this?" and if so, "can I remove that foam and shelf to have a full size locker?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Captains Cat
New member
I see no problem with removing the shelf and that small amount of foam, other than the work/mess involved. Particularly if it give you sufficient room w/o any other construction needed. The KISS principle is a good one to follow. :thup
Charlie
Charlie
Go to the 3/8 "Brait" Double braided line (if that is what you had) is different than Brait--and will take more room.
The amount of foam is minimal--and you can remove it. However, to keep within specs, I would add an equal amount of closed cell foam under the gunnels aft.
The amount of foam is minimal--and you can remove it. However, to keep within specs, I would add an equal amount of closed cell foam under the gunnels aft.
thataway":2kp3n0rj said:
I just checked and I do have 3/8 double braided line not 1/2. Still not enough room in the chain locker for my gear. I'm going to play around with removing the tiny horizontal shelf and the floatation foam. Also going to replace hauser pipe. I plan to camp a lot and hate dragging at 3:00 am.
I don't see any problem with the removal of the shelf--or making the anchor well deeper and removing the foam.
If you are worried about dragging--especially if you are mostly anchoring in Florida waters, you have plenty of line--in the PNW--you should have closer to 300 feet. I probably would increase the chain.
Please understand that the Brait stows in less area, and coils better than the double braid, and that is why I make an issue of the specific line.
http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/anchoring_tech.pdf
When I initially posted, I found a site which showed New England Ropes made an 8 strand braid--after further checking I am not so sure--so I suggest the Yale Cordage. The 8 strand can be spliced. I have also splices a 12 strand braid.
Also what anchor do you have? If I was worried about dragging, I would be looking at the Manson Supreme or Ronca anchors. I carry a Delta 14" and three 7# Fortress anchors in my 22. I have plenty of room for 150 feet of 1/2" 3 strand nylon-and carry another 150 feet of back up 1/2". But I also carry 3 more sets of chain and rode for the Fortress anchors. One of these is 3/8, the other are 5/16" line. These are stern anchors or back up bow anchors.
I have anchored more times than I can count but well over the several thousand thru the years. I have rarely drug anchor. When I have it was either the anchor was not appropriate for the bottom--such as a CQR in mud, I fouled something, such as picking up a mason jar on the tip of a Delta anchor--or into a log, or in what I call "Ball bearing" bottom--where the bottom was nothing but a thick layer of rocks about 2" to 4" in diameter successful anchoring means the right amount of chain, scope, proper anchor for the bottom and technique. Anchoring can be an art--and has to be approached slowly--I like to set the anchor by hand, feel how it is gripping the bottom, as I let out scope--when it seems set, then apply reverse to set it in. If it fails--then move--and try another part of the harbor--but look at what is on the anchor as you bring it up. There is no one perfect anchor--I carried 3 on the bow of my long distance cruising boats (over kill for a C Dory) but one plow, one Danforth HT and one Fisherman with long sharp spikes for grass or weed.
If you are worried about dragging--especially if you are mostly anchoring in Florida waters, you have plenty of line--in the PNW--you should have closer to 300 feet. I probably would increase the chain.
Please understand that the Brait stows in less area, and coils better than the double braid, and that is why I make an issue of the specific line.
http://www.yalecordage.com/pdf/anchoring_tech.pdf
When I initially posted, I found a site which showed New England Ropes made an 8 strand braid--after further checking I am not so sure--so I suggest the Yale Cordage. The 8 strand can be spliced. I have also splices a 12 strand braid.
Also what anchor do you have? If I was worried about dragging, I would be looking at the Manson Supreme or Ronca anchors. I carry a Delta 14" and three 7# Fortress anchors in my 22. I have plenty of room for 150 feet of 1/2" 3 strand nylon-and carry another 150 feet of back up 1/2". But I also carry 3 more sets of chain and rode for the Fortress anchors. One of these is 3/8, the other are 5/16" line. These are stern anchors or back up bow anchors.
I have anchored more times than I can count but well over the several thousand thru the years. I have rarely drug anchor. When I have it was either the anchor was not appropriate for the bottom--such as a CQR in mud, I fouled something, such as picking up a mason jar on the tip of a Delta anchor--or into a log, or in what I call "Ball bearing" bottom--where the bottom was nothing but a thick layer of rocks about 2" to 4" in diameter successful anchoring means the right amount of chain, scope, proper anchor for the bottom and technique. Anchoring can be an art--and has to be approached slowly--I like to set the anchor by hand, feel how it is gripping the bottom, as I let out scope--when it seems set, then apply reverse to set it in. If it fails--then move--and try another part of the harbor--but look at what is on the anchor as you bring it up. There is no one perfect anchor--I carried 3 on the bow of my long distance cruising boats (over kill for a C Dory) but one plow, one Danforth HT and one Fisherman with long sharp spikes for grass or weed.
I agree - there's nothing like feeling good about your ground tackle to give you a peaceful night's sleep. Well worth the trouble to get things set up.
I'm hesitating before posting this, because I realize that I'm not answering your question about removing the foam or fiberglass. I don't have a 16 though, or even one to look at. So I know, just don't reply, right? Not only that but this is the second time for me in this thread :wink: But... that darned Brait just stows so compactly, that even if you enlarge your locker.... it might be helpful? Here is an illustration (granted, it's from Yale's website, and they sell Brait, but I have 200' of it on hand -- and it sure does stow compactly).
If you wanted to post photo(s) of that bow locker area, I would be happy to give some feedback based on what I see (not a pro, but I have done some fiberglassing projects).
Sunbeam
I'm hesitating before posting this, because I realize that I'm not answering your question about removing the foam or fiberglass. I don't have a 16 though, or even one to look at. So I know, just don't reply, right? Not only that but this is the second time for me in this thread :wink: But... that darned Brait just stows so compactly, that even if you enlarge your locker.... it might be helpful? Here is an illustration (granted, it's from Yale's website, and they sell Brait, but I have 200' of it on hand -- and it sure does stow compactly).
If you wanted to post photo(s) of that bow locker area, I would be happy to give some feedback based on what I see (not a pro, but I have done some fiberglassing projects).
Sunbeam
Your comments and the others are very helpful. Since I'm using DB now, I'll stick with it for the short while. I just opened the locker and removed the shelf. There were two large chunks of foam haphazardly jammed in there. I took them out and (with a serrated bread knife) cut about 756 cubic inches off them - about 1/3 of their total volume. Then I trimmed the shelf to allow it to sit lower in the locker and increased its volume by a factor of 2. Hardest part was easing my bulk up into the peak...not to mention the purring assistance of my cat. Final question of this - is it necessary to replace the buoyancy in another part of the boat for safety?
Captains Cat
New member
jamato323":1ec7m93x said:
Not unless you plan to sink... Don't take the kitty.. :hug :cat :love
Charlie
spuncopper
New member
Hey,
What year CD 16 do you have? My 2007 CD 16 Cruiser doesn't have a chain locker or any type of stowage for an anchor. It has a solid bulkhead filled with floatation.
I'd be interested in anyone who has cut the bulkhead and installed a chain locker though.
Thanks for bringing this up.
What year CD 16 do you have? My 2007 CD 16 Cruiser doesn't have a chain locker or any type of stowage for an anchor. It has a solid bulkhead filled with floatation.
I'd be interested in anyone who has cut the bulkhead and installed a chain locker though.
Thanks for bringing this up.
My 16 is a 2003 formerly known as Litl' Tug. It has an easily removed plywood bulkhead behind which is the bow with two large blocks of foam, a small plywood shelf and a tine locker area above it. I removed the bulkhead and foam, trimmed about four inches off the top of both, trimmed the shelf and reinstalled. Now my locker is about a foot high by the width of the bow and accomodates 125' of double braid line and 6' of 5/16 chain. I use a small fortress with a secondary danforth.
wil_roy@yahoo.com
New member
Our 2009 16' cruiser has no chain locker space either.
Anxious to hear any comments
Anxious to hear any comments
spuncopper
New member
Thanks jamato323,
The bulkhead in my 16 is fiberglassed in. It would require breaking through a watertight bulkhead... anyone with any input on this???
The bulkhead in my 16 is fiberglassed in. It would require breaking through a watertight bulkhead... anyone with any input on this???
Captains Cat
New member
I'd put in as large a waterproof access hatch as will fit for access. Just measure the space use the hatch ring as a template and cut away. I'm pretty sure it's not a cored bulkhead but probably just 1/4" or so Fiberglass tabbed into the edges to the hull.
Charlie
Charlie
This thread was interesting to me as well, as when I had my 1999 16' Cruiser there was no anchor locker in it. I was wondering if perhaps it was one that a previous owner had installed or if the factory had started including one in later years.
The questions that I have is .....do you think that yours was factory installed and if so, are there any other 16' cruisers out there with factory installed anchor lockers?
The questions that I have is .....do you think that yours was factory installed and if so, are there any other 16' cruisers out there with factory installed anchor lockers?