Electronic Gagets which make the boating experience better and safer

[thataway]

I was "catching up" on "PANBO Marine Technology Hub". There were some items I have, and a few I don't have.
Communications:
Eartec Head phone communicators: Duplex range of several hundred yards, for communication with the Admiral when he or she is not immediately next to you. You might ask why would you need this on a 16 to 26 foot boat? Launching is the prime example---but also if the Admiral is in the cockpit or even in the cockpit or Foredeck, Docking or in locks. Cost: $325 the the least expensive.
Night Vision:
FLIR Ocean Scout Pro, high resolution, handheld thermal night vision system. For those of us who boat at night, these latest have better features. and are better than the 16 year old models I have for $2,395. There are much cheaper systems: From FLIR The Scout TKx - Compact Infrared/Thermal Imaging Monocular which is comparable to the unit I have, which cost $2400 16 years ago, $ 692 on Amazon. There are other hand held as low as $399. On the same subject I have been using a SiOnyx Aurora PRO: this costs about $820 on Amazon (there are some sites offering it for less than $200--which are scams--be aware. There are some other low light vision cameras/systems for less. I have no idea how well they work. The SiOnyx Aurora PRO has both infrared and low light capability, It is live as well as video and still recording on cards. I also have an IR illuminator (pure IR flashlight), which works well out to about 75 yards. In most circumstances I find this is as good as a generation 3 night vision or the hand held mid range FLIR units. There are some other units such as the Bushnell EX650 D for about $200. Again, no knowledge on how well this works. Also to be mentioned is SiOnyx fixed mount low vision and Boat Eye low light and IR both for considerably less than FLIR. Never forget that these IR units do not work thru window glass, but the low light cameras will. Starlight is enough to get a clear "Picture" of an anchorage, such as at the Isthums at Catalina, or Eastern mooring feilds or even lobster/shrimp pot floats.
Binoculars
Stabilized Binoculars: I have an older set of Fujinon 14 x 40 which hit the sweet spot in function vs price a number of years ago. There are now much less expensive units such as the SI-TEX’s Sirius 12 x 21 stabilized binoculars at $699. The sitex have less magnification and a smaller objective, so not as bright in low light. But for Day time, are about half in cost what Canon and Nikon offer in the 12 x 20 size, with equal optics.

Here are the updated electrical and battery standards from ABYC: https://panbo.com/abyc-publishes-updated-battery-and-electrical-standards/

 

[thataway]

For any ot those who like to work on their own boats, I would copy the ABYC new standards. In order to access them from ABYC, you have to join ABYC starting at $240 a year. There is a segment of Canada Dept of Transportation standards which is very close to ABYC.

I hope that other C Brats will come up and post their their favorite electronic gadget, mechanical gadget (like a boat hook which makes docking easier putting loops over cleats or pilings etc.) or similar item to share.

 

[clayhubler]

I have seen ads for the boateye night vision and I wonder about it. I think about how many times I have crept into an anchorage after dark

 

[DaveInRI]

While not my own, I’ve seen and remembered to look into a Rosborough member’s idea: he brings a motorized water pump to flush his outboards while on long anchor(/mooring)-only trips. His personal rule is to use it on trips longer than three days or with a week off planned, if he can’t get dock water.

Seaflo 5.5GPH pump, hooked to a 6 gallon water jug mixed with salt away, and a battery. He said the Yamaha requires a lot more effort (thus motorized pump) than his previous Suzuki which worked just fine using a cheap Harbor Freight hand pump. Seemed pretty neat idea for the right person. It’s a private group but here’s the link to a video of it in action:

Facebook

www.facebook.com

Screenshots:

 

[hardee]

I think the 2 best electronic devices I have are the MOB+ electronic OB kill switch and the Watchmate Vision AIS. I do have some stabilized binocs, but I find I don't use them nearly as often as the other 2 devices. Also, the Standard Horizon handheld VHF comes to mind as a near necessity.

Harvey
SleepyC

 

[KC99]

This is pretty basic... but consider ditching your (probably expired) flares for a handheld/floating electronic strobe light that qualifies under USCG Regs as a night VDS (Visual Distress Signal). They usually also come with a daytime VDS being the large orange sheet with the black ball & square printed on it. So you're covered day or night once you pass the line of demarcation.

Note to self: Burning, dripping metals wreak havoc on fiberglass, clothing and skin instantly... and God forbid there's a fuel leak involved in the distress situation

Not saying I'm against flares, but there is always a certain amount of risk when you use them and the longevity of the strobe leaves the brevity of the flares in the dust. The inescapable downside of the strobe is keeping fresh batteries on hand, but I just rotate rechargeables through around the first of every month and dab a wee bit of dielectric grease on the contacts occasionally.

 

[thataway]

Thank you KC--I agree that the Strobe beats the "flare", except for battery replacement--and extra batteries can easily be kept aboard in the ditch bag. We had this on our last C Dory 25, along with DSC on the marine VHF radio. Be sure and get the proper MMSI number from Boat US. in only boating in the US. If into "foreign waters", you should have the FCC version--a bit more expensive, but then you are in the international data base. Also if you change MMSI numbers, usually the radio must go back to the manufacturer of a center who has the codes to unlock your radio remove the old MMSI and put in the new one.

 

[Tom Turner]

I think the 2 best electronic devices I have are the MOB+ electronic OB kill switch and the Watchmate Vision AIS. I do have some stabilized binocs, but I find I don't use them nearly as often as the other 2 devices. Also, the Standard Horizon handheld VHF comes to mind as a near necessity.

Harvey
SleepyC
View attachment 129613

Is that a hard top bimini on your boat. I just got a 2005 CD 25 and have thought about a bimini of solar panels for use here in South Carolina. Thgoughts?

 

[Pclay]

I'd love to see something about those solar systems.

 

[Gulfcoast John]

Second vote for under $400 Ear Tec. We finally had to replace the old ones because replacement batteries are no long available. I COULD wear my $7,000 hearing aids over the water, but we all know exactly what would happen.

We’ve kept a Sirius Signal C-1002 on board since it was approved several years ago. It’s five times brighter than the white ones, flashes two colors and includes infrared…which is the ONLY kind that can be seen easily by a SAR helicopter crew wearing night vision goggles trying to spot survivors (been there, done that, but many years ago). We’ve owned all the previous ones before it came along but carried backup flares then. The chemical in a single improperly disposed of flare contaminates 250,000 gallons of ground water, if a green fact will bring you around. It’s certified for over two hours of continuous operation; to match that requires over 40 flares, which I always stowed right above the oven. https://store.siriussignal.com/products/c-1002-two-color-distress-light-flag-display-mount-whistle

We took a Pecron 3800EF (3,500 cycles) all-in-one ‘power station’ inverter on our Gold loop into Canada for silent stays on the lock walls without ‘hydro’. At 4,000W it’s got twice the power and about the same size as our Honda 2000 with no gas to worry about and recharges in 1.6h with 30A or 2.5h on 20A (or user selectable levels for less than 100% at 10% increments). Or solar, with two MPPT controllers, or by 12v lighter plug while underway, though only at 150w. To power your entire boat, just plug your shorepower pedestal end through a boat window and into the inverter with a 30A adapter and a floating ground adapter plug just like a generator. Or use the four 20A outlets without the adapter with extension cords. It will run the 1500w toaster oven, 1500w heaters, and even the 15k BTU Dometic rooftop AC with a custom Dometic Smart Start for that compressor, while displaying EXACTLY how many watts are going out and coming in and exactly how much time is left until 20% depleted. We’ve always contended that cooling is never needed when underway with an opening front window, esp in Canada.

There are NO modifications of any kind to the boat electrical system. The boat doesn’t know or care that the power is being sucked out of an onboard inverter rather than a dock power pedestal. The three Group 31 AGM boat batteries and 100w solar panel remain totally isolated and independent from the inverter package. We bought an accessory battery ($800) but didn’t bring or come even close to needing it. The rating exceeds the capacity of the AC panel, so of course you still must practice load management and don’t run everything all at once just like you don’t do that now.

The one disadvantage is that Pecron specifies the max temp exposure is 113 degrees. With the boat closed up and rooftop AC on, if the power fails on a sunny hot day, it might get to that, so we take it off and store it in the house.

https://www.pecron.com/products/pec...r-station-4200w-3840wh?variant=45804485083324

We found on this trip that there is an alternate method of getting lower cost access to the boat building standards including electrical and lithium (far beyond my skills or desires: give me a plug and play ‘appliance’ any day). If you join the Motor Trawler Owners Association ($65) it includes free access to the standards plus other things. If the MTOA has an investigative arm, Colby could show them his last 10,000 miles on NEBO at 7 MPH to prove he is indeed a Motor Trawler Owner.

https://mtoa.clubexpress.com/content.aspx?page_id=22&club_id=750660&module_id=232177

Vornado has always made quality fans with a five year ‘satisfaction’ warranties. Their new technology and power is based on DC (converted from AC power that they label Smart Energy) that is incredible. They have infinitely variable speeds rather than just Hi/Med/Lo. The smallest puts out more air at 50% than the old Medium size AC version one did on Hi. From the very front of the berth on full blast you can feel it blowing on the cabin door and at incredible efficiency (0.01A per Kill O Meter). Designed in Kansas. Often out of stock, we paid under $50 each. We replaced all three in the boat plus a Med size in the bedroom at home. Really remarkable.

Windy.com Premium ‘blue’ Weather app. This has become, by an outstanding margin, our most trusted go-to Weather app over the years. Many crews believe that you should not use just one weather forecast for your NO-GO decisions, but maybe three different ones. What many don’t quite realize is that ALL weather forecasts are based on six (Bob please correct me) worldwide Global Models. It’s entirely possible that the three forecasts you are using are ALL BASED ON THE SAME MODEL. Therefore, you do not get three different expert opinions, but three copies of the SAME opinion. Those of us in Hurricane Country are used to seeing the ‘spaghetti map’ of possible storm paths based on the different models. This is the exact same issue, but it also applies to the predicted wind, waves, wave period, temp, rain etc at EACH SPOT on the Gulf Crossing tomorrow for your trailer boat. We choose what Windy thinks is the BEST MODEL, but then choose ALL MODELS and if they are splattered all over the wall, you got some Deciding to do vs if they’re close as threads in a ½ line.

Starlink Mini!
Well worth it even if you don’t spend months on remote canal lock walls in Quebec. You can suspend service for $5 /month.

SmartPlug Shorepower system:
The original marine shore power plug is still a (believe it or not) 70 year old ancient RV design for RV’s, not boats! Their shore power cord is 100% individually tinned copper lines, just like required in your boat (but not outside your boat) by code. The boat plug side has 70% more contacting plate than a std Marinco, with a thermostat cut-off if it overheats.

TST trailer tire monitors for PSI and temp:
Pro semi truck level sensors for up to 22 tires. Overkill in Quality but we like it.
Early detection has more than paid for itself many times over. At this level, if ONE trailer tires blows, then the same axle tire has been exposed to 2X it’s own OVERLOAD max, and should also be immediately replaced. IE, one trailer tire flat means a $400 Replace bill, so this gadget pays for itself the very first time you get an early warning. Pro tech support in US!

B+ Black Box AIS:
As a practical matter, with B+ we see AIS target names and info MUCH sooner at closing speeds of up to 40 MPH for multiple technical reasons.

Fluke 110 Tru RMS Multimeter:
Buy Quality The First Time, and You Will Never Be Disappointed. lt will likely last longer than I will. You can get a $14 multimeter, but you’ll be sorry.

Rule (Xylem) Gold 1500 Bilge Pumps with 5 year warranty:
Upgraded SS shaft etc, really are more robust. Your bilge pump is more likely to save to save you boat when you’re not around than anything else.

Hope something here is helpful.
Safe travels!
John