Drain Plug

D

daninPA

New member
We own a restored 1994 CD-22. It's been a fantastic boat for us and perfect for the Chesapeake and St Lawrence.

We went out today and by the time we returned 3 hours later, there was the usual sump area filled with water -- not high enough to activate the bilge pumps, but high enough to run over the cockpit floor at anchor (it was getting rolly with a few swells my mid-afternoon).

I've purchased several of each type of drain plug (brass, steel, screw-in, flip type) but the hole itself is not smooth. In other words, it never seals well. Was there a brass tube insert originally? If not, is there a recommended way to improve the seal between the plug and the inner hole wall?
 
There should have been a bronze tube or screw type of plug-again of bronze. Brass is more subject to. corrosion. The tube would have been flared at both ends from the factory. You probably cannot do that.

When you put either a new tube or a screw type of plug receiver from the outside, you want to cut back the core a little, and then fill all of that cut area with epoxy thickened with Cabosil and Medium density filler. That should be sanded round to be a good fit if a new tube is put in place, or if you just attatch an external garboard type of plug.

What size is the hole? Please take a photo from the outside. The hole should be smooth and coated with epoxy in any case. If there is no tube, then yes, the expandable plug may not fully seal. I prefer the type of plug which has a "T" handle, and you expand the plug by turning the "T" from the outside.

The lowest point in the boat when at rest is the forward end of the cockpit, When the boat is running, especially on a plane, the lowest point will usually be just in front of the transom. If the bilge pump is not coming on automatically, run it, to see how much water you can get out.
 
Thanks! This is very helpful!

The hole is a notional 1” (ID varies due as it’s not perfectly smooth).

I don’t have a staging tool but perhaps a bronze tube flanged at on end can bet set in a bed of epoxy painted around the ID?
 
I put in a new drain plug because the factory one is too high and can't drain the whole sump.

Something similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/attwood-Bron...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I used a suitably sized plastic tube for the pass through of the transom with some epoxy and 5200 to make sure it is all sealed up.

I have a screw in drain plug. It is high quality plastic and will float if dropped in the water. The top is large enough that tools are not required to remove it. Don't remember where I got it and my boat is not handy to get the name of the product.
 
That sounds like a reasonable setup. How did you fasten the fixture to the boat? (It comes with wood screws but those wouldn't provide much confidence...)
 
daninPA":hg38p8qc said:
That sounds like a reasonable setup. How did you fasten the fixture to the boat? (It comes with wood screws but those wouldn't provide much confidence...)
Click to expand...

The holes for the mounting screws were undercut and filled with epoxy, then the screws were put through the epoxy. There is not any real load on the plug mount so the screws are fine.
 
I assume we are talking about the transom drain plug.

After the first year of owning our 22 Cruiser and storing her in the water, she is now on a lifter.

In anticipation of this, last winter I removed the bronze fitting from the transom, and replaced it with a bronze pipe coupling that I epoxyed in place. I had to grind off the two lugs on the sides of the coupling, and then it fit nicely.

Now I can screw in a plug from either inside or outside. On the lift, the plug can easily be removed from inside. Should I trailer somewhere I would probably plug from the outside
 
Thanks, everyone for the excellent responses! I think I'll go with the screw-in type stainless steel plug (upper Chesapeake Bay is Fresh Water).
 
I finally had time to do some end-of-season maintenance and I found the drain has the brass fitting in place but it looks like it was painted over during restoration. The ID is exactly 1", but the inside of the tube is dimpled enough to present a less-than-perfect seal.

I'm considering applying a coat of epoxy inside the tube, smoothing it out wet, sand if needed.

Thoughts?
 
daninPA,
I have the tool to install a brass drain tube. The tool flairs each end. If you need it, I will gladly lend it to you.
 
srbaum":2kt1o5ud said:
daninPA,
I have the tool to install a brass drain tube. The tool flairs each end. If you need it, I will gladly lend it to you.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer!

I tried a different drain plug (Stainless steel) and was able to get that one to expand suitably. I'm going to sand the interior of the tube so it's smoother and less likely to permit water from seeping through.

The difference between "drain plugs" is significant -- brass have been largely unimpressive. SS seems to be the ticket!
 
Update!

After doing a little cleanup/ sanding of the brass drain tube I reinstalled a Stainless Steel 1" drain plug -- I was able to get it snug tight, then fully tight with a turn or two. It held fast and nary a drop of water was in the well at the conclusion of 3 hours of water time cruising around the Upper Chesapeake Bay at various speeds (from drifting to 30 knots).

The problem before seems to have been the tube surface was so uneven that the plug seemed tight but would shift once it was in the water -- sometimes significantly, other times not at all permitting variable amounts of water to leak in. The leak was so minimal that even in the slip after a few days it rarely resulted in more water than would be held in the indented "well."

But it bothered me, so now it doesn't anymore.

Thanks, everyone for the excellent advice!!!
 
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