Dock line chafe and gelcoat rubbing on TomCat

T

tparrent

New member
My new to me TomCat arrived in my slip tonight (woo hoo!) just in time for a gale tomorrow.

AS I was setting the dock lines, I noticed a couple of things on the bow I would like to correct.

I like to lead bow lines in a cross to two cleats in order to keep the boat centered in the slip and off the fenders. Unfortunately, the placement of the cleats on either side of the windlass makes that difficult as the lines cross the anchor chain and that's a recipe for disaster in several dimensions.

As I lead the bow lines to cleats without crossing them, I then noticed that the lines lie flat on the fore deck where they will rub if the boat moves side to side. Putting chafe protection on the lines would help the lines but it would still rub the gelcoat.

The most obvious solution is to add two new cleats as close as possible to the front end of each hull. That would avoid chafing and allow the lines to cross.

Has anyone done this? It's not something I could do myself so I'm not looking for detailed installation instructions so much as general pros and cons.

While I'm at it, I wouldn't mind adding an extra cleat on the side deck.
 
tparrent":193mxqo3 said:
My new to me TomCat arrived in my slip tonight (woo hoo!) just in time for a gale tomorrow.

AS I was setting the dock lines, I noticed a couple of things on the bow I would like to correct.

I like to lead bow lines in a cross to two cleats in order to keep the boat centered in the slip and off the fenders. Unfortunately, the placement of the cleats on either side of the windlass makes that difficult as the lines cross the anchor chain and that's a recipe for disaster in several dimensions.

As I lead the bow lines to cleats without crossing them, I then noticed that the lines lie flat on the fore deck where they will rub if the boat moves side to side. Putting chafe protection on the lines would help the lines but it would still rub the gelcoat.

The most obvious solution is to add two new cleats as close as possible to the front end of each hull. That would avoid chafing and allow the lines to cross.

Has anyone done this? It's not something I could do myself so I'm not looking for detailed installation instructions so much as general pros and cons.

While I'm at it, I wouldn't mind adding an extra cleat on the side deck.
Click to expand...

Drill, epoxy, 5200, put whatever you want where ever you want :wink: I have hand poor luck with the cure all Butyl tape sealing anything so I always use the tried & true 5200 :thup Look in my album I put on some line chalks? to cure the same problem :wink: Good luck & have fun.
 
Line chocks. Didn't even think of that :crook I've been away from boating too long!

I wish I could do installations like this myself but I am an absolute klutz when it comes to ANYTHING remotely mechanical/carpentry/DIY. The boat is too pretty for me to practice on.

I'm trying to think of all the add ons I would like to do and then have a pro do them all at once.

Chocks
Rebedding (is it rebedding if they were never bedded in the first place?) of bow cleats and windlass
Extra cleat on each side
Dedicated dinghy hanging attachment points

Anyone know a good boat handyperson in the New Bern NC area?
 
to due any fitting forward properly on the deck you need to over drill the hole. Fill with thickened epoxy. then you can seal the fitting after you drilled a hole through the epoxy and put a backing plate or fender washer behind.

Chocks or fairleads can also be a point of chafe. I prefer to put a cleat on each side near the edge. Then a SS 1/4 round on the rail. Put any chafe protection there. I have a photo somewhere--or in the next day or so, I can take a photo my current 25 with that cleat on both sides.
 
TP,
Here’s a similar thread on a 2019 TC255:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?p=340494

The Pros of choosing a cleat location beside the windlass is that the whole area drains into the anchor rode compartment between the sponsons, which has a drain above water level if there’s a leak. Access this space through the middle door in the berth.

On our boat the forward 20 inches or so of deck over the sponsons covers compartments without drains that are sealed off from the sponson bilges and stay dry. The access doors are to each side of the anchor locker. We use them for clean storage. So far we haven’t needed cleats there, but that’s where I’d put them if we did.

Our builder (Triton Hull # 0001) put a midship cleat (the most important to secure first when docking) on the port but not starboard side. It would not be possible to add one now because all the engines and much of the 12V rigging is suspended just under the starboard side deck from the helm to the throttles and aft.

Although I’m sure that Triton did not properly bed the cleats or windlass (like the vast majority of boat builders), I choose to keep an eye out and address higher priorities (like adding extra handrails over the roof overhangs and aft door). You can get a good look at how your cleats are done by removing the cockpit gunnel inserts (8 screws) and looking up at the aft cleat fasteners with a flashlight.

When you DO get a leak around a fastener in a cored area, for a temporary cruising fix only seal the OUTER area. Better for water to drip into the cabin than get trapped in the core material.

Best of luck,
John
 
John's link brought up my photos of the 22--the 25 has the same but larger cleats, and the Tom Cat can also have the same outboard cleats.

Spring_lines_2.sized.jpg

John, in my 2006 (one boat from the 2007 model) we had the anchor locker draining into one of the side bays and then overboard. In my boat they never put in the "overboard", and the floor of the center locker was lower than the hole to the side locker. I considered putting a center drain, but was worried about water being forced up there by spray--perhaps the best way would have been to put on two clam shell vent covers, the outer being larger than the inner? (Sort of an upside down "Dorade" vent.

I believe that any leaking deck fitting needs to be taken care of ASAP-just because water drips out--doesn't mean there will not be core involvement. There will be core involvement if water is gettin in.
 
Bob, what do you mean by "SS 1/4 round on the rail"?

The survey found a minor amount of water intrusion near a hole that was apparently mistakenly drilled and then not properly filled at the factory. Looks like someone measured wrong for the windlass. They then apparently just put the plug they 'd drilled out right back in with some sealant. Moisture readings were light and indicated it hadn't spread more than an inch but you can bet that's coming out now and being properly sealed.

I'll take some pictures and point out my conundrum.

While I'm here, I might as well ask - what size three strand docklines do you use.

Thanks for the help

Tom
 
tparrent":gpi2uoux said:
Bob, what do you mean by "SS 1/4 round on the rail"?

The survey found a minor amount of water intrusion near a hole that was apparently mistakenly drilled and then not properly filled at the factory.

While I'm here, I might as well ask - what size three strand docklines do you use.

Thanks for the help

Tom
Click to expand...

Tom,
I know exactly what you encountered. I had the same issue on the 2006 Tom Cat, you could see where they had cut out for a deck pipe, then apparently when I ordered the boat, without a deck pipe, they had put a plug back in. I didn't see any leak or water intrusion, but it sure makes you wonder what goes on! I believe they boded the plug in polyester resin and had gel coated it.

532341-sea-dog-rub-strake_0.jpg. This is the quarter round rub strake I referred to. They are hollow on the inside, to conform to any rounding on a toe rail, if necessary. If the cleats are close enough to the edge of the gunnel, then not necessary.

I have several size deck lines. I have a set of 3 strand 5/16 lines. (Breaking load #2660 SWL #530) One is a stern line, which is about 15' long, there is a bow and amid ships line which are kept on jam cleats on each side. The bow line is about 25' long (in the 25) and the amid ships line is about 15' long. These are coiled on shock cord holders on the aft bulkhead. These are the lines I use when coming into a slip. They are long and light enough to be tossed to helpers If necessary,

I have a set of secondary lines which we put on as we tie the boat up for any length of time, or there will be surge conditions. These are 3/8 double braid, and color coded. (Breaking load: #4900, SWL: #980) This way I can tell someone who might be helping me--take that gold line from XX to XX. These range in length from 15 to 25'.

I have a tertiary set of lines which are 1/2" double braid. (Breaking load: #8680, SWL #1740). These are 25' in length--and for storm conditions. I was putting this eon when a storm was approaching about a year ago, and fell in the water....
 
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