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Gregarious

New member
C 25 2006 on trailer from seller broker in Charleston to dry rack storage here on Wilmington island. Known issues: water pump inop, GPS fogged screen (have new Lowrance 7 TI2 to replace) Wallas stove probably never used and will replace with simple Butane cooker, water heater takes up too much space so will replace with a Bosch 2.5 gallon unit, roof top A/C inop and will get someone to do that, general cleanup, hope the water tank doesn't leak. Has the Yamaha 200 and I will link it to the Lowrance to get engine data.

We plan on local cruising to get the feel of it, then maybe Hontoon get together (we would have it trucked there and cruise back) and eventually St Lawrence/Rideau canal in mid-June (also trucked there and back)
 
Congratulations on the boat! Great modifications you have planed! Be sure and put that new water pump on a block out of the bilge, and set it back a little further to avoid water from the hatch. Also put quick disconnect electrical fittings, so it can be removed for repair easily. Rebuild the old one, unless it is badly rusted.

You may want to consider a trailer. By the time you pay for several "truckings" and if you have to take it to a marine repair facility, it may be cheaper to have your own trailer. Even though my son's 25 is in the water, he has a trailer just for doing maintenance. (It does cost a little to store it, but the storage is inland so prices are less than near the marina.)

We hope to see you at Hontoon. The Cruise back to Wilmington Island sounds great! Also a chance we will do the Erie Canal sometime this summer/fall. So hopefully our paths with cross.
 
Sounds like a great boat, congrats! We don't see many other c-dory's around Savannah, maybe we'll cross paths. Our 22 has the wine colored trim.

You might want to consider saving that Wallace. It may be completely functional and start right up with some clean fuel and fully charged batteries. Worse case you can send it to scan marine and have it refurbished for not too much money. As you are well aware being on Wilmington, below a certain temperature the sand gnats, biting yellow flies and mosquitos are non existent so we really love having heat on the boat when we need it.

If ya'll need any help with anything, or a buddy boat feel free to hit us up. our usual waters are south of you, mostly intercoastal from the Ogeechee to the Altamaha, though we've been known to cruise as far south as Sanford on the St John. Good luck with everything!
 
Thanks for the tips. Our 4 car garage is normally quite full and usually there is an old Rolls or Bentley or STudebaker or or or. So no trucks invited. Maybe the Wallas will go on Ebay but I will try to get it gong first. I have noted issues here on the forum that I will see if mine has them but the performance is quite nice except it leaves a noticeable wake at 1200 rpm which is about 5 knots so I have to go to 1100. Is that a factor of short water line length or a square stern?
 
Congrads on your new ride!

If your Yamaha is a 2006 it will have N2k output capability, if a 2005 it will depend on the serial number. If it was not already rigged to bring the plug into the boat through the transom rigging tube, you will have an adventure on your hands. Here’s a link to mine:
Extracting engine data onto your N2k network

www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=25903

Adapter on Amazon is here:

https://www.amazon.com/Lowrance-000-012 ... 185&sr=8-1



We just replaced the Coleman 13.5k Btu AC with a 15k and find that it’s overkill for a Tom Cat.

Check the DOT date of mfg code (week/yr) stamp on your trailer tires and consider replacing them and spare at over 4 years even if tread looks great. Consider adding a spare hub on your spare tire. I like a 3ft pipe that fits over the lug 4-way as a breaker bar.

I’d wager your wake at 1200 RPM is from transitioning out of displacement mode. From there to planing speed the boat is pushing a wall of water trying to get over it’s own bow wave.

You could get a big honkn’ 2017 diesel F250 truck and not lose any garage space, since it won’t fit in the garage anyway. If you pay a pro $2/mile to haul the rig for you that can add up. Have fun with all the decisions!

Cheers,

John
 
Gregarious":16wrkc3f said:
...it leaves a noticeable wake at 1200 rpm which is about 5 knots so I have to go to 1100.
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Ours does the same. Something to be wary of in "no wake" zones. Even at planing speeds, that wake is impressive. Lots of weight back there (fuel tank, water tank, engine(s), batteries, cooler) so I have to be cognizant of it when passing near smaller boats or kayaks etc.
 
Congrats on the boat. If the AC is a 2006 a lot has changed in the units in 14 years. More efficient, easier "cold start" for less power surge when unit comes on. I would for sure consider keeping the wallas. Yes they can get picky but most of those issues are old/dirty fuel, wrong fuel, or not having a real hot well charged battery system. They like a lot of volts and a half dead battery on the hook will not get the job done... Enjoy!
 
Congrats on the boat and enjoy.

I would add on the side of keeping the Wallas. Yes, it needs a fully charged battery power, or have the OB running. (So check the wiring for corroded hook-ups, good fuse, and proper sized wire.) Mine is near 15 years old and runs like a champ, when I use it, even if not often. Always start on High, run 15 min before adjusting the temp, then back to high for 15 min before shutting it down. I use KleenHeet for fuel and have kept fuel over for 2 years with no problem.

As to the wake. Yup, there is a difference between 5 knots and no wake on the C-Dorys. Even the 22 has an impressive wake at 5 knots. Hull speed for me is about 5.5 knots and it takes another 1 knot drop to get down to near "no wake" progress.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Motor is a 2013 with 130 hours and I definitely want to monitor its health through the YAMaha NMEA cable to a new Lowrance 7 TI2.
There is a 1/2 inch of water in the bilge. Normal? Water pump definitely bad. How about a sealed RV pump which may be less prone to corrosion? DSCN4328
The wiring behind the panel is pretty exposed. Is that a problem?
The old Garmin 12 has a big box under the wiring for I guess multiple inputs. Any reason to keep it? It has a antenna on top of roof which I assume is also superfluous now as the Lowrance can read GPS through windshield and roof pretty well.
 
Gregarious"... The wiring behind the panel is pretty exposed. Is that a problem? ... [/quote said:
Mine is pretty much a tangle behind the panel. I think that is typical of these boats. There is not enough space behind the helm to make the wiring neat and pretty. As owners add/delete electronics, the wiring tends to get messier.

Even so, the wiring is not that complex and pretty easy to figure out (at least on my 22).
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Couple questions... is your 200 a 4 or 6 cylinder ? Also as for the Garmin what is the full model number? Can’t seem to find a model 12 other than a hand held. My Garmin 4208 has a separate unit for the fish finder under the pile of wire.
When we bought the C-Otter we thought about getting rid of the Wallis. My wife loves ours and would not be without one now. You are getting good advice on how to use it. If it works for you to get to Hontoon we can go over yours.

Our 200 Yamaha in-line 4 cylinder is hooked up to our chart plotter. Easy job if you have N2K network.

Have fun with your new toy!
 
There is a 1/2 inch of water in the bilge. Normal? Water pump definitely bad. How about a sealed RV pump which may be less prone to corrosion?
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There will often be water in the bilge; it leaks thru the hatches. I was able to decrease the amount with improved gaskets. Some have put different hatches in the floor.

Tom From Sea Otter has put in a DIY "dry bilge". I am also in the process of installing the same. It gets rid of the little bit of water accumulation in the pump sump.

My spare pump is an RV pump, but with the same fittings as the factory pump. If you have found a totally sealed RV pump, please let us know the details. Generally the RV are the same as boat. Move it back and up, that will help a lot, also spray with "Corrosion Block" or "Corrosion X" regularly. As Tom noted, we all share the "improvements" we have made in the boats at the gatherings.

The wiring behind the panel is pretty exposed. Is that a problem?
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There should be a piece of Naugahyde or similar material which snaps over the back and "hides" the wiring. I rewired part of mine, even though that had already been done. I labeled the wires, fuses etc. Put in a 12 fuse block instead of the 6 which comes from the factory. All exposed positive terminals need a cover over them.

The old Garmin 12 has a big box under the wiring for I guess multiple inputs. Any reason to keep it? It has a antenna on top of roof which I assume is also superfluous now as the Lowrance can read GPS through windshield and roof pretty well.
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Yes, I would keep it. We like to put AIS targets on a separate MFD. The Garmin 12" would be idea. The box is an add on for a upgraded fish finder transducer most likely. See how it works before replacing. I always run two or 3 displays. I like to have one large scale over all (for you that probably would be the older Garmin, and a small scale for close up info, the Lowrance 7" (I made the assumption that you have purchased a 7"?). Most Garmin have a built in GPS antenna, but it is possible that yours did not. Check the model number or post it here, and we can tell you. All of the modern MDF chart plotters receive the GPS signal under cover (thru the roof, sides and window). Even two 12" chart plotter could be used on a 25. (I think that John Highsmight has two on his Tom Cat. I have a 9" and 7, and room for another if I wanted. (Use the I pad 12" pro instead; either with Navionics charts, or thru wi fi reading off the Ray Marine MDF I have (Radar, Down Scan, Chirp Sounder, Charts, etc.). For example if we are running in restricted visibility I'll put the Radar on the I pad, and Marie will monitor it. I will keep Eyes on the water, and watch chart plotter/depth.
 
It is a Yamaha F200XD 4 cylinder. The Lowrance is a Elite 7 TI2 (not 12), I as in India. The water is finding its way onto the "salon" floor. I am getting a little hand suction pump to do deal with the rest.
 
The water is finding its way onto the "salon" floor. I am getting a little hand suction pump to do deal with the rest.
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Does your boat have a pump under the step inside the cabin? If so, does it open to the cabin, or is there a hole thru the bulkhead to the cockpit?

Unless there is an obvious leak (hand rails, windows, rub rail, Bronze bow strip, anchor locker etc or fresh water system), it is possible that the water is coming from under the cockpit bilge. In that case, there may be a defect in the tabbing of the aft cabin bulkhead to the hull. In the latter case then you will need to open the hatch over the fuel tank, and see if you can find out where the water is entering.
 
Water leak....check the fitting that go to the water heater. On a friend’s 25 the drain for the water heater was cracked open and there was one loose fitting. Ah ....the joy of boat ownership! Tom
 
There is a 1/2 inch of water in the bilge. Normal?
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Yes. Wet bilge. Always an issue. As mentioned, the hatches suck. I replaced them and it solved the issue. If your water pump is mounted low I'd raise it up out of the water. I re-located ours to the port battery shelf and since then, the pump has lasted. Prior to that, it rusted out in no time.
 
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