Daydream's Great Loop Blog!

Sitting in the shade with a bit of a breeze (natural or artificial) and a sports drink will do wonders. AC on the boat could help but I don't think the hotel room will help with the longer term acclimation.
 
Jake":2b7ofrgu said:
Sitting in the shade with a bit of a breeze (natural or artificial) and a sports drink will do wonders. AC on the boat could help but I don't think the hotel room will help with the longer term acclimation.

There is more to acclimation than sitting in a motel room. The 10 day drive from the PNW to Florida can be exhausting. Then, load and launch the boat, and shove off. It is a LOT to deal with, especially when you throw heat and humidity into the situation. A couple days off, with no fussing about which way to go or where to go will reduce the stress. The A/C will help get the body back to normal, along with plenty of hydration. Once the first mate is non-stressed and properly hydrated, she will be more inclined to want to continue the trip, and physically better to deal with the heat.

Pat, you are my friend, but you would be the first to call yourselves "the Bickersons"... we have anchored by you. :wink: Give Patty some relaxation out of the heat and humidity. Out of the boat cabin that is 25% of the space of your 5th wheel.

In our boat cruising days, after a long tow, we always took a couple days to provision, launch, sit comfortably in a marina, and get a feel for the local culture. How much of central Florida and the towns along the river and waterway did you stop to see? There may be some roses to smell, too. The Loop isn't about who covers the most miles in the least amount of time (that would be the Cannonball Run), and it isn't about either half of the couple being less than happy. Fix the heat and dehydration situation, fix the happy... everything else will take care of itself.

Florida is all about the boating... but it is the shoreside stuff that people boat TO.

I will not make any other suggestions unless you ask - I truly want to see you both happy with this adventure.

Best wishes,
Jim
 
Well, we DID take a day off today, and it was very pleasant. We shall have to see about the air conditioner. We are both very aware of the need to keep her hydrated (and me too). Sitting on a dock in a cool breeze all day today talking with good people did a lot for Patty's state of mind! And we are at a very cool place, run by C-Brat Jonathan Arthur, "irlboater" here, which is the subject of today's blog post.
 
Great to see that you not only "found" Jonathon but got to "Honest John's Fish Camp". We had talked about Jonathon when Pat and Patty were at our home last week!

Fantastic that Jonathon is going to do a 3rd loop in his very basic 22. Say "HI" for us! Johnathon stopped at "Camp Thataway" on his first Loop trip.

See what happens when you smell the roses.

Consider the WalMart trip for the Air Conditioner, sooner rather than Later!
 
Cruising up the ICW you are going to want A/C a lot of the time. Summer is almost here and the humidity will follow you north. When the boat is moving it will be ok. But once you stop you'll notice it. In the summer in VA and on the bay, we take the A/C unit with us whenever we plan on overnight.

I have a window unit like in the picture (but it takes up a lot more of the window opening). I also have a Honda 1000 for when we are anchored out. In the heat of the summer we usually stay at marinas for the shore power to run the A/C. It makes a BIG difference to the comfort level.

In more moderate weather having fans in the berth and the user added side ports helps a lot.
 

OK, ready for info, specifics on AC unit, make and model if possible, must run on 1000 watt generator! Thanks!

Still at Honest John's, Cocoa Village free dock will be next stop, but a little too windy our on the ICW for our tastes.

Just put Garmin Blue Chart on iPad, charts downloaded, Active Captain database download! We'll use Navimatics and Blue Chart, leaving Navimatics on iPad, but cartography of other two is so much better, I doubt Navimatics will get used much!
 
Looking for another recommendation besides the AC. Specifically brand and model of a cell phone amplifier for the boat. T-Mobile is too sketchy. Very seldom no service, but often one bar. One bar does not let us use Personal Hotspot tethering for our computers, Dr. Bob says with a cell phone amplifier, one bar will work for WiFi tethering. I looked on Amazon, and it is VERY confusing. So, if you have a cell phone amplifier on board and are happy with it, we would love to hear from you!
 
We have a Frigidaire 5000 btu which will run off a 1000 watt genset .We bought ours at Home depot years ago for less then a$100 .The only problem is mounting it and taking it down every night . When we go with our Cruise club we are usually there for a few days . If it keeps Patty happy the I think its a GO to HD and get one TODAY . take measurements of window and buy some pool noodles and towels to insulate .Good Luck and happy waves to you and Patty Jim (jennykatz)
 
One good thing about having a C-Dory and not a trawler is you don't get in a hurry. Have fun, see stuff, relax, and when you have to go home go get your truck and pull it home. Can't do that with a trawler.

If you make the loop great if you don't who cares. Enjoy your extended time off!
 
HI Pat,

I don't have a cell phone booster on board (but I slept in a Motel 6 one night :lol: Does that count.

I ran into a couple up at Port Hardy or Sointula, I can't remember which that do extensive mid BC coast cruising and they had a Wilson booster on board. Very high praises for it and it was working well on their 22 Cruiser. And it was set up with the bare minimum separation distances. (I don't remember what they are but had wondered if it could work on a 22.) Wish I had more detail on what they were using. I don't think they check in here much, but it was a blue stripe and they had just come back from around Cape Caution.

As you know, I'm sure, Wilson makes quality radio electronics accessories, (Antenna and boosters)

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
We've used the following on Journey On for a couple of years. It's a 5000 btu model which runs with a Honda 1000. Doesn't cool everything down immediately but blows a lot of cold air. Last used in the Sacramento Delta, when the temp reached 105.

Frigidare, Electrolux Home Products, Model FRE052X77. I suspect all the 5000 btu from China are the same. This one says il draws 4.8 amps, 515 watts. It's a soft start model, which is important, but standard.

Boris
 
journey on":1erd99od said:
We've used the following on Journey On for a couple of years. It's a 5000 btu model which runs with a Honda 1000. Doesn't cool everything down immediately but blows a lot of cold air. Last used in the Sacramento Delta, when the temp reached 105.

Boris

105 there is about mid 80's in the south!
 
Hey Pat,

We have used the Wilson Sleek for 3G, and now have the WeBoost (former Wilson Sleek) for 4G. At our RV site outside of Friday Harbor, we often had 3G with a single bar, sometimes 1X... with the WeBoost, we were able to up that to 4G most of the time, generally two to three bars. That signal comes from Whidbey Island.

What a booster will NOT do for you: create a signal when none exists. If you have no signal, a booster won't "pull one in." T-Mobil, as you have found out, has spotty coverage nationwide.

Also, when using a booster, you really need to have a metal ground plane to attach the magnetic antenna (small)... about 12" square will really improve the signal. In our boat, I used a cookie sheet - yes, that made a real difference. With our motorhome, we have a metal front cab, so it is easy to stick the magnetic antenna there.

The power unit for the WeBoost is AC, but it works fine in a small inverter (cigarette lighter type) on the boat.

When boat cruising, a lot of folks think being "unplugged" is great - I find current information, especially weather radar via internet, is VERY helpful. Ask Brent and Dixie about coming up the east coast of Florida... waiting for one cell to move through, then sliding between two cells that we could track on weather radar, thanks to being "connected."

Also, pull into a new area and be able to do a quick search on the best restaurants, nearby grocery stores, laundromats, and other services. Can you get by without that? Sure. But, why not use all the information that is available (like Active Captain)?

We used a Honda 2000 generator, so I can't help you with what model a/c will run on a 1000w gen. Check the specs for start-up amps, and if it is within the gen output, you should be fine.

I know you are looking forward to anchoring out a bunch, but it sure is nice to have a slip, with power, where you can walk the dog without having to mess with your kayak. And, ride the bikes or walk to a leisurely lunch or supper at a nice restaurant nearby. Mix it up with some of both (anchoring and marinas) to make your life and travels easier. Not to mention all that privately owned shoreline where you can't take your dog to poop... things are different along the ICW compared to the PNW. :wink:
 
The "WeBoost" is a division of Wilson. It works with more modern cell service, such as 4/G. I Also have the more powerful big blue amp. The Drive 4G-X | 470510 is probably what I would get--but you need to see what frequency your phones are working on. You have to have a signal--and it should improve it significantly. We have picked up signals where we have not had them also. But that will not be as reliable. There still has to be "line of sight" to the tower.

The instructions said to "get permission" from your cell phone company. I went thru all of the forms etc--and contacted A T & T--they didn't seem to want to hear about it. The "danger" is overriding the front end receiver of their towers--pretty unlikely. The cell phone amp, should boost your received and transmitted signals.

The unit comes with a car antenna. We also have the boat antenna. The antenna requires a ground plane--the marine antenna, has small radials which give a ground plane. We have also used the car antenna with a pizza pan as a ground plane (on the RV--when going to the "WeBoost" the older trucker antenna was not quite as good since it was not tuned for one of the frequencies.

I would stick with 12 volt units. I suggest buying from "WeBoost" if there are any issues, they will give excellent service. (I had a minor issue, with connectors for the marine antenna, and they overnighter the proper adaptor to me.)

Another option is buying a Jet pack or similar simple receiver form Verizon. (Verizon has the best coverage. I used a "Jet Pack" and simple flip phone, for about 6 years to supplement my A T & T service) A T & T has a "Mobley" 20 gig unit for $20 a month, made for cars. Verizon coverage is better than A T & T. The "Mobley" received a lot of comment on one of the RV forums (restricted unfortunately) I am on.

Here is the initial post on the subject:

Recently discovered this plan and would like to pass it along. We have Verizon service and was very disappointed to learn their unlimited plan would only allow 10 gigs on a jetpack. I wanted to keep Verizon for the good national coverage for our phones.

Along came AT&T with what looks like a great plan option, no phone account needed. The stand alone car data unlimited plan for $20 per month. All you need is a ZTE Mobley device ($99) and a 110 ac adapter ($33) to use it in the motorhome or any home. These devices are somewhat slower than a conventional jetback but for us this will be a good deal. The plan is intended to wire your car as a wifi hot spot but with the adapter it will work anywhere.

You can read more about this at techomadia's website at this link:
http://www.rvmobileinternet.com/att-unl ... te-mobley/
If interested, I can copy more of the info in an e-mail.


As for the Air conditioner--My unit is a Frigidaire 5000 BTU, data plate says 5.2 amps. The current FRA052XT7 looks identical to mine--and its spec shows 4.8 "cooling amps" The start up current will be more--so you have to run the Honda Eu 1000 on non eco mode. I used a similar "Arctic King" which I got at WalMart--the current WalMart one appears the same, on my C Dory 25.

We have used it in the window of the c Dory22 and 25. Pool Noodles make a good "buffer and insulation--Also a short piece or two of 2 x 4, positioned so that any condensate (there will be a fair amount) will drain outward, not into the boat.

Mark and Carol on Crystal Sea, were very kind to loan us their unit when we were on the Mississippi River cruise. It was for their 25, and was too large for the 22 front window--but it worked fine when on the cockpit/sill of the cabin door. We draped the door cover over the top, and it cooled well.

We used the 5,000 BTU unit in a high humidity environment where the outside temp was 105*. It brought the inside temp to 82 degrees in the C Dory 25. We also cut some window "insulation"--with sheets of reflective mylar foil/bubble wrap. I would also cut some for the aft cabin door, and forward hatch. (We have a horizontal window shade on our forward hatch, as well as a "no see em" screen.) If you choose to use the AC unit on the floor (easier on the backs!).

Get a unit with analogue controls (Not digital). You can make a "long run" tank out of a 3 gallon outboard fuel tank--you have to modify a fuel cap, so the outboard tank feeds into the top of the fuel cap. (You can buy a modified cap). Some say they have used the C Dory fuel tank--We have not--It depends on how high from the tank the draw is going to be--if it is over a foot or so, it may not work.

Be sure you have good CO detectors. Be sure that the generator exhaust is pointing down wind and away from the boat. Don't moor next to a boat running a generator exhaust out of the side of the boat--toward your boat!

Enjoy being cool! (Who said being "cool" was easy? !!)[/quote]
 
Bob, the Frigidaire we used did not require running the Honda 1000 in non-eco mode, which is wide open. We used the Eco mode which was quite a bit quieter. Air conditioners now have a "soft-start" which doesn't seem to draw much more that the running mode.

By the way, 105 is hot any way you slice it. Judy was for ending the trip at that very moment. I'm willing to compare a Caif 105 to anyplace in the USA, it's hot.

Boris
 
Thanks for all the information. We went to Walmart and Lowes today in Mebourne Beach, and no joy. The 5000 BTU Heier air conditioner Walmart had said on the box that it required 15 amps. So all 5000 btu Chinese air conditioners are not the same! Lowes had nothing even close.

I checked the Frigidaire FRA052XT7 5000 BTU air conditioner on Amazon, and looked at everything Amazon say about it, including all the PDF links, but none of these include the amps, but if Dr. Bob's data plate says 5.2 amps, that will work. I could not find specs by Googling, I would appreciate getting the link to the specs to look them over.

Patty found another one, the Frigidaire FFRA0511R1 on Amazon and then found the specs on the Frigidaire site, 4.8 amps, low voltage startup, so it looks good as well. This one is the smallest physical size we could find.

By Ohm's law, a Honda 1000i is good for a bit over 8 amps (1000 watts / 115 volts = 8.69 amps). If my understanding of this is faulty, please correct me!

The big problem shopping on Amazon is that they don't include sufficient specs, and none of the specs for the small air conditioners included watts or amps required to operate the unit.

Based on this information, we will probably order one of these and have it shipped to the St. Augustine Municipal Marina after we call them and alert them and make sure it is OK. We should be there within four days or so and will be staying at least two nights and probably three.

On the cell phone amplifier, it seems like the best solution is a Verizon Jetpack for the eight months, and depending on data plan, maybe long term. With T-Mobile and a cell phone amplifier, we would be trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear!
 
I got my AC at Walmart. It fits in the 22 window with about an inch to spare on the top and maybe half an inch on the sides. I use pipe insulation around the window frame. I have to disconnect the center window strut to fit it in. However, by unscrewing the strut from the window frame I can use it as a support to hold the window open when the AC is in place. Works great for this.

You'll need to mount the window with a slight tilt to the back so the condensate drains outside instead of into the cabin. I have a hose that fits the AC unit drain to route to the water overboard.

Since the AC blows into the cabin, I have an O2COOL fan that is arranged to blow into the berth area when we are sleeping. This helps a lot to get the cool air in there. The fan was originally battery powered, but I modified it to run from the 12v outlets and cut the battery holder part off.

The only issue with the AC is that you have to move it in and out of the window. This can be a bit of a pain. The unit stores in the area just aft of the potti spot between the v berth when travelling. Also, put a towel under it to catch any remaining water.

There are extended run kits for the Honda generators that allow you to hook up an external tank. Some people also plumb them into the main fuel system via the Racor filter output connections.

If you have a gen you can also use it to run a small electric heater when it is cold out.

I have always had Verizon (nee Airtouch) cell service. There are very few places that I have been where there is no service.
 
OK, the Honda 1000 is good for 800 watts, any more blows the fuse. So that's 800/120= 6.7 amps.

I looked at the nameplate for the Frigidaire FRA052X, in our garage and it says 4.8 amps, 515 watts. So buy either Frigidaire and it'll run on your Honda 1000.

Remember the Honda 1000 is only a name, not it's capability. The Honda 2000 is only good for 1600 watts.

Boris
 
Air conditioner ordered for delivery to St Augustine Municipal Marina! Propel water on board for hydration. About to cast off lines from Honest John's Fish Camp, a great two day stay here, refreshed and recharged! On to Cocoa Village, then New Smyrna Beach (Jonathan's recommendations) and then to St Austine.
 
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