Recently I completed my 3-section teak cabin floor project. This removed the curvature of the cabin floor plus raised the center of the aisle about 3". Both are big pluses in my opinion (the latter at least for us non-tall guys). And then there's the beauty of the teak and holly.
Per Bob’s and Charlie’s requests I have included dimensioned sketches of the three sections plus additional photographs. These are located in my photo album “Teak Cabin Floor Construction Photos”.
Some details:
- Built the bases with 3/4" plywood on top of 5/8" fir ribs spaced 12" apart
- Ribs were trimmed and shimmed to take up the unevenness of the cabin floor. Getting the three sections perfectly level and steady (over all the floor area) was the most time consuming part of the project (I used the bases without the teak for a couple of years).
- Teak is finished 3/16 thick, 1.5" strips. I used basswood instead of holly as the grain was much easier to work with. Basswood strips were 1/8". Both were glued to the bases with a high quality wood adhesive.
- Channels were cut in the ribs to allow for any liquids to pass through plus the bottom the ribs are covered with rubber strips to prevent any squeaking.
- The outside edges of each section were framed in teak with edges beveled.
- Used seven coats of Dallys Seafin teak oil for the finish.
- All three sections are easily removable. The aft section has a brass inset latch to start the process. This is something I learned over the last couple of years- you can get water in the floor in heavy weather fishing when water is going in the cockpit and bilge and moving past the gas tank.
- The total weight of the three sections is about 25lbs.
This project ended up taking many more hours to complete than anticipated however it gives the boat a totally different look and feel as the floor is complemented by all the existing teak trim in the boat. Fell free to contact me if you start a similar project and have questions.
BTW, Seahooked is for sale at this time.
Per Bob’s and Charlie’s requests I have included dimensioned sketches of the three sections plus additional photographs. These are located in my photo album “Teak Cabin Floor Construction Photos”.
Some details:
- Built the bases with 3/4" plywood on top of 5/8" fir ribs spaced 12" apart
- Ribs were trimmed and shimmed to take up the unevenness of the cabin floor. Getting the three sections perfectly level and steady (over all the floor area) was the most time consuming part of the project (I used the bases without the teak for a couple of years).
- Teak is finished 3/16 thick, 1.5" strips. I used basswood instead of holly as the grain was much easier to work with. Basswood strips were 1/8". Both were glued to the bases with a high quality wood adhesive.
- Channels were cut in the ribs to allow for any liquids to pass through plus the bottom the ribs are covered with rubber strips to prevent any squeaking.
- The outside edges of each section were framed in teak with edges beveled.
- Used seven coats of Dallys Seafin teak oil for the finish.
- All three sections are easily removable. The aft section has a brass inset latch to start the process. This is something I learned over the last couple of years- you can get water in the floor in heavy weather fishing when water is going in the cockpit and bilge and moving past the gas tank.
- The total weight of the three sections is about 25lbs.
This project ended up taking many more hours to complete than anticipated however it gives the boat a totally different look and feel as the floor is complemented by all the existing teak trim in the boat. Fell free to contact me if you start a similar project and have questions.
BTW, Seahooked is for sale at this time.
