Current draw of Coleman Polar Cub air conditioner

T

thataway

Active member
We have been using the Coleman Polar cub RV type roof airconditioner for about 2 months now. Even in temperature up to 105 ambient, it has provided aequate relief from the heat. Yesterday two new Tom Cat 255 owners visited and we began to discuss the current draw (They were impressed with the cooling).

We have a "Kill-a-watt" meter--usually about $50, but as low as $30 on the internet. This meter measures voltage, amp draw, watts, hz and cummulative current used. We used the cord I use with the Honda EU 2000i alternator/inverter "generator" to measure current use on the boat.

We had a Guest 5/5 battery charger (factory), True Charge 20/20 charger on for the entire test (since this is the way that the boat will probably be running)--The chargers, both in trickle mode--used 1.8 amps. It is most likely that at full capacity they will draw more--maybe up to 5 amps max.
We added the air conditioner--first low fan: 2.3 amps (increase of 0.5 amps over the charger), high fan, 2.8 at start up, but settled down to 2.3 (not sure why). Low cool 8.87 max cold start with the AC off for 14 hours, and running draw 6.0 amps (or 5.2 if you subtract the charger--I may decide to re-do the study with both discharged batteries and with the chargers off).
High air conditioner:6.5 amps running or 5.7 air conditioner along. This is most encouraging and confirms why the Honda EU2000i will run the airconditioner in eco mode. In fact from these numbers it is quite possiable that the Honda will run the air conditioner plus a 600 watt microwave--of course it will not run the water heater with the air-conditioner.
 
Very interesting data Bob, thanks.

It's even better considering the fact that your data was collected with the EU2000 in "eco" mode. That leaves the option of turning off the eco mode and going for "full power" if one felt it was necessary (doesn't sound like it will be necessary.

You're becoming a bit of an R&D test-bed for various options and improvements! Like your aproach and your thoroughness; again Thanks!

Casey
C-Dory Naknek
 
Actually,

with a start up amperage of 8.87-1.8 (charger) = ~7 amps, = 840 watts @ 120v,

and a running amperage of 5.7 amps, = 684 watts @ 120 v,

one could run the Polar Cub with a Honda 1000i generator, although it would be working it a bit!

Bob- Did I read your figures correctly?

Joe.
 
Joe, it might be possiable--but the rated max output of the Honda EU1000i is 8.3 amps and running load is 7.5 amps sustained. This would be on full power. Would the 1000 start the Polar Cub?--possiably but it would be a strain. One could not run anything else.

To clarify the measurements were on mains current 121.9 volts 60 hz. I have run the Coleman Polar cub with the Honda EU2000i, in eco mode, but the tests were using mains power. I'll have to check the draw using the generator next time I fire it up. I have used the "Kill a watt" and it seems to work fine. The people who have put scopes on the Honda says it gives very clean power.

If the voltage drops, the amperage goes up--and that may be a problem with a smaller generator--not sure how the Honda inverter handles that.
I have not overloaded the generator to find out! Many inverters will handle a transcient overload.

thanks for the questions and comments. Maybe I should start a column called "Practical C Dory". :teeth
 
Bob-

Thanks for the response!

I know iit would be a stretch on the 1000i, but might work on a CD-22 on low cool setting once the cabin was cooled down, depending on the climate.

Start-up would still be an issue, but no way to know w/o trying!

Yep- "Bob's C-Dory Practical Answers, Advice, and Rx"... or is that too much like non-retirement?

Joe.
 
Mike,
I have seen a similar unit on a C Dory 25. The Corp of engineers uses them on 22 foot pilot house aluminum boats. There is no reason that you could not put one--but there is more room on the cabin top in the 25 and TC. Also these weigh about 90 lbs. Might make the 22 slightly more tender, since the waterline beam is narrower. Also the TC has a bit higher roof. I was 6'2" and still have headroom under the AC unit (even with the 1/2" frame I built of wood to follow the contour of the roof on the inside.
 
Thataway, this is very interesting numbers you have posted. I am going to the sea of cortez in August so I'm considering adding an AC to my 23cc. It looks like from the numbers you have posted that a Honda 1000 would run this AC unit. Have you ever tried running it on a 1000? It looks like if the AC were started on low cool and then once running put on high cool the 1000 would be able to handle it.

I have a Honda 1000 and would like to find something roof mounted that will work.

Bill
 
Bob your post is perfect timing. I've got my 22 on the trailer and have been installing a sliding tray under the helm seat for a Waeco freezer. I've been toying with installing a roof air and currently have a 5K Walmart AC in the center window so I can work in comfort. Surprising how well this cools the cabin in this 90+ degree heat. Curtains down make a big difference. The only thing that has stopped me from installing the roof air is having to deal with the weight and size of the Honda 2000 (bad back). Sure would be nice to think the 1000 would run the Polar Cub in a pinch. Someone posted about purchasing a Honda knock off from West Marine that was 1250 watt output but I haven't seen any results on how they liked it. I inquired at West Marine about this and as usual they didn't know what I was talking about.
 
Even less than 2¢ worth here: No figures such as Thataway is able to cite but a Honda 2000 EU runs the 13.5K unit on our RV just fine in econ mode. The dealer who sold us the RV runs these 13.5K units (and maybe bigger) with a 1000 w generator all the time so surely worth a try. I hear modern A/C units start much more easily than older ones.

I'm interested in the Waeco installation. Way ahead of myself because no boat (yet) but planning's half the fun, right? Which size fits below the helm seat and what have you decided on for the sliders? Thanks.
 
We use the heat pump Polar Mach 13.5 kBTU unit with the 2000 Honda successfully . You cannot use eco mode however and is working pretty hard but does work .I built a 10 Ga. short cord for the last install , Dont want to bottleneck the amperage available or run 35 feet of extra wire unnecessarily .
Marc
 
Have any of you Brat checked the voltage output of the 1000 Honda? At one time I used it to power a Norcold #100 freeze. ( 12 V. or 110 V.ac) I decided to check the voltage. Without a load it was putting out 150 volts. It made me a little nervous so I stopped. My 1000 is 10 to 15 years old, maybe they have a better regulator now? You think? Did the " I " series Hondas fixed that problem?

captd
 
Spike38 <Lots of other discussion clipped> " The dealer who sold us the RV runs these 13.5K units (and maybe bigger) with a 1000 w generator all the time so surely worth a try." [/quote said:
If you read all the discussion on this and other threads, you'll see that the Honda 1000i can run an easy to start 5000 BTU AC unit, and maybe even some slightly larger ones, but that it takes a 2000i unit to run a 13,500 BTU unit.

Just bad information from the dealer.

Joe. :teeth :thup
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I have done a little research and found out a couple of things. First off the Coleman Polar Cub 8300 is supposedly the most efficient rooftop mounted AC available. According to the spec sheet with the AC on the 8300 model draws 7.8 amps with the fan on low and 8.2 amps with the fan on high. The 7.8 amp draw on low is very close to the Honda 1000's rated output of 7.5 amps. So on a good day maybe the 1000 could run it if it could get it started. The problem is that when I will want to run the AC it will be 100 degrees outside and the Honda 1000 would probably overheat running so hard.

These soft start kits that you see for different AC's are just extra capacitors that you can add on to the AC units. The Coleman Polar Cubs come with two rather larger capacitors already installed. This explains why Thataway experienced a drop in amp draw after having the fan on for a while. If you are trying to start a large AC on a smaller generator you should turn the fan on for about 2 minutes to let the capacitors fully charge up before you turn the compressor on. So in theory if your generator will put out enough power to run the compressor of the AC, you can just keep adding on capacitors until they absorb all of the demand created by the compressor cycling on and off.

Now if I could just find an efficient 8000 btu rooftop AC I could probably get it to work.

Bill
 
captd":23ql485u said:
Have any of you Brat checked the voltage output of the 1000 Honda? At one time I used it to power a Norcold #100 freeze. ( 12 V. or 110 V.ac) I decided to check the voltage. Without a load it was putting out 150 volts. It made me a little nervous so I stopped. My 1000 is 10 to 15 years old, maybe they have a better regulator now? You think? Did the " I " series Hondas fixed that problem?

captd
Click to expand...

My guess would be that the voltage regulator requires a small current draw before it can work. Hence the voltage without any load is likely not very reflective of the voltage under a little load and I'd bet that the voltage regulator is very fast. Check it under a minimal load (maybe a high wattage, high resistance resistor and see if the voltage isn't closer to 120V.
 
After searching on the internet for almost the whole day I found this AC unit http://www.kingersons.com/qwa7500m.html It appears to be perfect for what I need. It's rated at 7,500 btu's which should be plenty for my 23CC. It is very efficient so it only draws 6 amps! My Honda 1000 will probably be able to run it in eco mode. I can use this at home when I want and take it on the boat once a year when I need it. Best of all no new holes in the boat. I've read reviews on line for this AC and they are all good. I'll let you guys know how it works.

While looking at AC's for my boat I found some good info that I thought others with Honda 2000's would like to know. If you want a big efficient rooftop mounted AC it looks like the Coleman Mach 3 Power Saver is the way to go. It's rated at 13,500 btu's and only takes 10.5 amps to run on high. This appears to be the most effecient and largest AC that the Honda 2000 will run.

I'm not sure how long these regular RV units last in a marine environment. If anyone knows I would be interested to know. Coleman also makes a Sea Mach AC that is marinized. It has stainless and plastic parts along with other modifications to make is last longer in the marine environment. The down side is it needs 14.9 amps on high to create 13,500 btu's. This is really pushing it with the Honda 2000. On paper it looks like it will work.

Good luck all,
Bill[/url]
 
Don't forget that the start-up curent draw on an AC unit is much higher than the current draw when running continuously. Dr. Bob had a figure on it one one of the AC threads, and I think it was a variable (depending on the individual unit) something on the order of 1.8-2.5 times the running current.

I'll look to see if I can find it.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Sea Wolf, I believe you are right. Most people say start up draws 1.8 times the running amps. Hopefully the generator will run it with no problems. I'll start the generator with eco off, then start the AC on low. Once it is up and running I should them be able to put the generator in eco mode to save fuel. If the Honda 1000 can't start it then I plan on adding a couple of capacitors. That should solve the problem.


Bill
 
Capt D--I wonder about your Honda 1000? I suspect that it is not a modern Honda EU 1000i (alternator/inverter) unit, since I do not believe that these units have been built for over 10 years (if that). Both my 2000i and 1000i idle no load at 120 volts. I had an older 350 watt Honda generator, which did have a higher voltage no load, but it would come down with any load applicaton.

You just have to try the EU 1000 units on 7 amp loads--often they will not operate start up loads on eco throttle mode, even if they will handle the load at full speed. The reason seems to be that the engine can not bring the alternator output/engine speed up fast enough--the voltage drops, current rises, and the breaker trips.
 
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