Color change
- Thread starter chieftele
- Start date
You are going to have to paint them. Best to sand the old gel coat, then fill and fair, and put on an epoxy primer. Next one of the single part urethanes is DIY--and less expensive. TopLac, BrightSide or Easypoxy are single part polyurethanes which are popular. You can either use a high quality brush, or tip and roll.
The very best job is going to be a spray paint two part poly urethane, over sprayed epoxy primer.
The very best job is going to be a spray paint two part poly urethane, over sprayed epoxy primer.
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
Bob is right, an epoxy primer must be used. It can be sprayed and left 24 hours then sanded. Or it can be over reduced and used as a wet-on-wet sealer. Follow suppliers directions.
The best paint to use would be IMRON. This is what a lot of builders use on high end boats - such as Formula. It can be polished and stands up well in numerous harsh enviroments. Boats, fuel trucks, construction equipment, etc. Not considered a DIY paint however.
Spraying will produce the most professional looking results, but you will need a booth and it involves a lot of monkey climbing to mask everything up.
Regards, Rob
The best paint to use would be IMRON. This is what a lot of builders use on high end boats - such as Formula. It can be polished and stands up well in numerous harsh enviroments. Boats, fuel trucks, construction equipment, etc. Not considered a DIY paint however.
Spraying will produce the most professional looking results, but you will need a booth and it involves a lot of monkey climbing to mask everything up.
Regards, Rob
I'll basically "third" what's been said. A two-part coating (I like both the "Imron" type and the "Awlgrip" type - they both have plusses and minuses, but are more similar than different as compared to other paints) will give you very long lasting shine and a gorgeous finish. And they can be rolled and tipped. However most folks have it sprayed (requires positive air-supply respirator to be safe). Interlux Perfection is a two-part that has (they say) been formulated with the roller/tipper in mind.
A one part alkyd paint such as Brightsides or Easypoxy (they call them "one-part polyurathanes," but to my mind are really just a very good alkyd paint - not that there is anything wrong with that) (and Easypoxy is not epoxy... not sure why they named it that). The downside to them is that the shine will not be nearly as long-lasting. However they are more DIY friendly.
I would probably choose a sprayed two-part, because most of the work is in the prep either way and the two-parts just look spectacular. I had a boat with 20-year-old Awlgrip that looked brand new (granted it was covered in the off season, but still impressive). Some painters will let you prep and mask off and then they just spray, if you are trying to stick to a budget. And too, it somewhat depends on the overall feel of the boat. If it's a bit more "work boat" like, then a one-part job might just suit perfectly.
If the boat is not bottom painted, then you have a decision to make on the gelcoat color that "wraps" up onto the topsides from the bottom and at the bow. None of the paints mentioned above will work below the waterline, and much of that area does fall into that category (especially aft). Gelcoat will stand up to that, as will bottom paint (or you could go two-toned and not paint that area).
A one part alkyd paint such as Brightsides or Easypoxy (they call them "one-part polyurathanes," but to my mind are really just a very good alkyd paint - not that there is anything wrong with that) (and Easypoxy is not epoxy... not sure why they named it that). The downside to them is that the shine will not be nearly as long-lasting. However they are more DIY friendly.
I would probably choose a sprayed two-part, because most of the work is in the prep either way and the two-parts just look spectacular. I had a boat with 20-year-old Awlgrip that looked brand new (granted it was covered in the off season, but still impressive). Some painters will let you prep and mask off and then they just spray, if you are trying to stick to a budget. And too, it somewhat depends on the overall feel of the boat. If it's a bit more "work boat" like, then a one-part job might just suit perfectly.
If the boat is not bottom painted, then you have a decision to make on the gelcoat color that "wraps" up onto the topsides from the bottom and at the bow. None of the paints mentioned above will work below the waterline, and much of that area does fall into that category (especially aft). Gelcoat will stand up to that, as will bottom paint (or you could go two-toned and not paint that area).
Thanks to all of you for the excellent advice. If I am understanding correctly, the sanding of the gel-coat and prep work is performed carefully at the color accent areas, without disturbing the surrounding base/white? And below waterline requires a new gel coat or appropriate bottom paint.
Chris Bulovsky
New member
Chieftele- I would first really be 100% certain that the existing color is totally unexceptable. Yes it will be a big deal. Sounds easy to do but really its not. A good finish will require 97% prep work and 3% painting. A good finish and result is always dependent on prep work. If I remember Byrd had painted a early model C-Dory some years ago that looked great from the photos. I have some experience in painting a C-Dory but I am not a pro. I used Automotive color matched paint on top of an epoxy primer it has held up fairly well to considerable abuse but is showing its age. I think I have some old photos in my album of this project that may offer some insight.
Others on this forum have way more experience with various paints for boats so do consult with them if you plan to go forward with this notion.
Chris
Others on this forum have way more experience with various paints for boats so do consult with them if you plan to go forward with this notion.
Chris
Chris Bulovsky
New member
hughpenk":vimcw6qz said:
I had a similar thought about Mossy Oak but my wife asked me "Just how red is your neck?"
I replied its plenty red and shouldn't you go get me a PBR? :lol:
Seriously this notion of using some vinyl decal material may have merit as my "SCOUT" logo has held up very nicely for years.
Interesting idea.
EXCELLENT comeback with the PBR Chris
Another option for a different look on the boat would be a wrap. From what I've gathered, it seems that a wrap is cheaper than a paint job but doesn't have quite the durability. If you get tired of the wrap, it can be removed and you can slam on a new one....think of the possibilities here is a link to an outfit that does wraps to give you an idea.
http://www.ultimateboatwraps.com/
Another option for a different look on the boat would be a wrap. From what I've gathered, it seems that a wrap is cheaper than a paint job but doesn't have quite the durability. If you get tired of the wrap, it can be removed and you can slam on a new one....think of the possibilities here is a link to an outfit that does wraps to give you an idea.
http://www.ultimateboatwraps.com/
Wraps are possible--basically a huge decal, But they are also expensive--and frankly don't look all that good, unless you want to have the dolphin's and sea turtles in fluorescent colors. The wraps don't seem to do all that well in the heavy UV light of Florida. It takes an expert to apply them and make sure that they are absolutely smooth. Come along side a rough dock--kiss that wrap good buy.
Seriously, there are some Polyurethanes which are two part and made for brushing. There are some who claim that they can get as good a job as a quality spray job. These are exceedingly rare. Sterling, Perfection,Ezpoxy 2, and Awlcraft 2000 are ones which are made for brusing. I have used, myself as a deck paint, and some of the cockpit details the Sterling A craftsman who made a completely new transom, with swim step and stairs etc for my Cal 46 did a job which is as good as I have seen---also did the sides of the pilot house etc.
For the bottom, just do Vivid--is is an antifouling paint which holds up well, and is good for trailering. I got 3 years-could have gotten 4 out of a couple of coats.
Definitely every single scratch and ding has to be repaired and faired, ot they will show up. You should mask the surrounding gel coat to avoid any damage, when sanding and prep.
Also it is extremely important to get every bit of silicone or wax out of the surface. There are special de waxing solvents.
Seriously, there are some Polyurethanes which are two part and made for brushing. There are some who claim that they can get as good a job as a quality spray job. These are exceedingly rare. Sterling, Perfection,Ezpoxy 2, and Awlcraft 2000 are ones which are made for brusing. I have used, myself as a deck paint, and some of the cockpit details the Sterling A craftsman who made a completely new transom, with swim step and stairs etc for my Cal 46 did a job which is as good as I have seen---also did the sides of the pilot house etc.
For the bottom, just do Vivid--is is an antifouling paint which holds up well, and is good for trailering. I got 3 years-could have gotten 4 out of a couple of coats.
Definitely every single scratch and ding has to be repaired and faired, ot they will show up. You should mask the surrounding gel coat to avoid any damage, when sanding and prep.
Also it is extremely important to get every bit of silicone or wax out of the surface. There are special de waxing solvents.
Wow, thanks to everyone for valuable input. I owned a wood boat for 25 years, so prep and paint work is not unfamiliar to me. But I have not owned a fiberglass boat before. If I were to go for it, I would only want to to a high quality job. Sounds to me like smart money learns to love to color, at least as long as the original gel coat is still in good condition. Thanks again to everyone for chiming in.
Chieftele
Chieftele
What is amazing is how well the gel coat will buff out, even if it is oxidized. C Dory has always used high quality Cook Composites Gel Coat.
I had owned boats with a gel coat stipe which was not my first choice, but learned to live with it..
I am sure that you have the skills to do it correctly and make it come out very well.
I had owned boats with a gel coat stipe which was not my first choice, but learned to live with it..
I am sure that you have the skills to do it correctly and make it come out very well.
Wipe it down good with wax remover then sand very diligently. That is a very critical point. Use a good quality masking tape and don't lv it on to long after painting. Don't skimp on the quality of either primer or topcoat.
I used ppg single stage epoxy with a quality spray gun and respirator. If u start to smell the product thru the respirator then it is time to change filters.
My red over blue has been on for16 yrs and still looks great.
It will chip if hit hard with a 24 ounce lead weight.
Jack in Alaska
New member
I can vouch for the quality of the paint job on Red's boat. There is a picture of it in my album, the red one.
We live across the road from each other and both have 26' C-Dory Pro-Anglers.
He did a great paint job on his boat and it still looks new except for "sinker dings" like we all have.
We live across the road from each other and both have 26' C-Dory Pro-Anglers.
He did a great paint job on his boat and it still looks new except for "sinker dings" like we all have.
Jack in Alaska":2ny4u0v8 said:
You are right, his boat looks great. I'm curious how after 16 years it continues to look so good. Red is one of the worst colors to use, because it absorbs infrared radiation from the sun and deteriorates the gelcoat. On my CD 16 cruiser, even after waxing the roof overhand accent area as many as 4 times a year, the gelcoat would turn to a haze shortly after each waxing. I used West Marine Boat polish with PTF.
Rich
C-Nile":35ufxcie said:
I agree about red being a color that is more prone to sun fading than others. But.... paint (especially two-part) is quite a bit less prone to the problem than gelcoat, in my experience. So that's probably the "secret." Being in a northern climate helps too, but still red gelcoat would fade faster than paint I think.
Sunbeam":7t2q7gzy said:
I just noticed this and meant to comment, since the thread did include mention of "learning to love" the existing gelcoat color (whatever it may be). When the gelcoat fades, it's the top layer oxidizing. You could think of it sort of like dead skin on top. When you wax that, it looks good again, but that's a sort of "fake good" - kind of like getting a bare piece of wood wet and it looks varnished, but only until it dries. But, you can still bring the gelcoat back to "real" life - you just have to remove the oxidized layer before waxing. There are a few ways, examples of which are compounding and wet-sanding. Then, once you have the boat shiny and "right" again.... then you can protect it with wax. In other words, the wax protects what you already have underneath (it has UV filters, etc.), but it alone is not what gives you the shine and color. So you were probably getting the wet look from the wax, but that's much more temporary than starting with good looking gelcoat before you wax (which of course is also temporary, like anything, but it's a much longer term temporary
).Sunbeam":op5zi4rk said:Sunbeam":op5zi4rk said:
I just noticed this and meant to comment, since the thread did include mention of "learning to love" the existing gelcoat color (whatever it may be). When the gelcoat fades, it's the top layer oxidizing. You could think of it sort of like dead skin on top. When you wax that, it looks good again, but that's a sort of "fake good" - kind of like getting a bare piece of wood wet and it looks varnished, but only until it dries. But, you can still bring the gelcoat back to "real" life - you just have to remove the oxidized layer before waxing. There are a few ways, examples of which are compounding and wet-sanding. Then, once you have the boat shiny and "right" again.... then you can protect it with wax. In other words, the wax protects what you already have underneath (it has UV filters, etc.), but it alone is not what gives you the shine and color. So you were probably getting the wet look from the wax, but that's much more temporary than starting with good looking gelcoat before you wax (which of course is also temporary, like anything, but it's a much longer term temporary
Sunbeam,
Actually, I used "Starbrite Premium Cleaner Wax with PTEF" and rubbed the surface hard with circular motions until the gelcoat turned reasonably clear. Less then 2 weeks later, the gelcoat was chalked again. It got to a point where I just left it alone for fear of destroying the gelcoat. The boat was out in the sun 24-by-7. So my question to you: would using a dedicated compounding and wet-sanding process as you described, and then applying wax, have resulted in an entirely different outcome? Is it better then a Starbrite's one-step process? On my new boat, I want to get it right from the beginning should chalking occur.
Thanks!
Rich
starcrafttom
Active member
I mentioned this before but will throw it out there again. I would not post it but I helped and saw it happen.
A old guy I knew in California bought a old gold metal flake tri hull ski boat. It was faded so bad I was afraid to touch it thinking I would push thru the fiber glass. He claimed that he could bring it back to life with out a buffer. I said ok and said I would stop by in a few days with my buffer to help out when what ever he had planned failed.
Two days later I stop by and was amazed. He had brought half the boat back to life. It was so shiny and clean it was had to look at. You could see not only your self in the paint but the cars across the street. I was impressed. I asked for his secret. I was told that if i did not believe him and he proved it I had to do half of what was left ( which was why i stopped by anyhow). I bit and he told me, I called bull shit. He then wiped down and 1 by 1 ft area for about 3 min with his secret tool and a rag. No buffer was used. After a good wash the still to be waxed hull was a perfect match to the rest of the shiny boat. I was again impressed and ended up going more then my half of the boat with transmission fluid...... that's right red tranny fluid and a rag will remove the worse oxidation you have ever seen. Just do a little at a time and wash really well right after with a dewaxer or dish soap. ( by the way don't wash your boat or car with dish soap, you are removing the wax) . Then you can hand wax the boat or use a buffer your choice. that boat looked great for the 4 years he lived and was still looking great when his wife sold it.
A old guy I knew in California bought a old gold metal flake tri hull ski boat. It was faded so bad I was afraid to touch it thinking I would push thru the fiber glass. He claimed that he could bring it back to life with out a buffer. I said ok and said I would stop by in a few days with my buffer to help out when what ever he had planned failed.
Two days later I stop by and was amazed. He had brought half the boat back to life. It was so shiny and clean it was had to look at. You could see not only your self in the paint but the cars across the street. I was impressed. I asked for his secret. I was told that if i did not believe him and he proved it I had to do half of what was left ( which was why i stopped by anyhow). I bit and he told me, I called bull shit. He then wiped down and 1 by 1 ft area for about 3 min with his secret tool and a rag. No buffer was used. After a good wash the still to be waxed hull was a perfect match to the rest of the shiny boat. I was again impressed and ended up going more then my half of the boat with transmission fluid...... that's right red tranny fluid and a rag will remove the worse oxidation you have ever seen. Just do a little at a time and wash really well right after with a dewaxer or dish soap. ( by the way don't wash your boat or car with dish soap, you are removing the wax) . Then you can hand wax the boat or use a buffer your choice. that boat looked great for the 4 years he lived and was still looking great when his wife sold it.