clearance from prop to boat ramp

S

Sheepshead

New member
Yesterday my trim control (both on engine and at the helm) would only go downward, no up movement. This happenned while in the water.

I wasn't sure what the clearance would be if I were to attempt putting the boat back on the trailer. Do some folks haul their boats out of the water with the engine in complete downward position? I've never tried, and I didn't want to risk somehow hitting the ramp with my prop.
(2007 angler with original stock Suzuki.)

I fumbled around with limit switches, fuses, manual, and you tube info with no luck fixing the problem.
The swim step was too close to the manual adjustment screw to be accessed while on the water too. Darkness was no help either.

Anyway, I chose to spend a chilly night on the water and had the boat hauled out early this morning at a nearby marina with a large fork truck.
A Suzuki mechanic got it working fine without actually doing anything. He suggested maybe it was a bubble in fluid or corroded connection to solenoid.
Knowing that I could be in the same position on another trip, I wanted to know if it is doable or adviseable to haul the boat out in down position.
Thanks.

If this posts twice like always, I apologize in advance:)
 
Of course it depends on the trailer and ramp--put your motor all of the way down, when on a level area with the boat on the trailer. That way you can see how much clearance. With most trailers and ramps--it its OK to pull with the motor down. I trail my 25 with the motor down--and launch and retrieve the same way.
 
The skeg on my motor only has about 2 inches clearance on the trailer when in the down position, so I always launch, retrieve, and tow with the motor up.

At least with the Honda motors, there is a way to release the tilt mechanism with the manual relief valve. Then you can tilt the motor by hand. You can use the tilt lock to keep it in the up position. With the manual relief valve set to manual the motor will not stay in the up position by itself.

It may be possible to open the valve, then tilt the motor, and then close the valve again. Perhaps then the motor will stay up without the lock.

Check your owner's manual.
 
thataway". I trail my 25 with the motor down--and launch and retrieve the same way.[/quote said:
Same with the TomCat 255. I usually have to power on the trailer, and never raise the motors for travel..

On the two 22' C-Dorys an Angler and Classic we have owned. I raised the motor after loading and used a 'transom saver' for travel. The bunk style trailers were too low for the motor to clear in some situations.
Click to expand...
 
I think it best to trim the motor(s) up when launching and retrieving. I've seen a few skeggs dragged on the ground at the boat ramp. Realistically, it really depends on the slope of the ramp, and the angle of the drive to it at the top. Along with your hitch overhang from the back axle...Why take the chance, unless you have a mechanical issue with the trim, in which case it'd be worth having someone watch as you pull out slowly.
 
If you are ever on the Oregon coast and retrieving out of Newport Southbeach Marina, raise the motor. I watched a poor guy drive up the ramp with the motor trimmed down and witnessed his partner yelling at him to "stop" as he dragged the lower unit all the way up the ramp. The driver could not hear his partner or else he chose to ignore his partner and dragged the motor all the way up the ramp. Talk about finger nails scratching a chalk board! I still remember this and so this is the first thing we check on our departure list when leaving the ramp.
 
Sheepshead":nlin2vwz said:
Yesterday my trim control (both on engine and at the helm) would only go downward, no up movement. This happenned while in the water.

I wasn't sure what the clearance would be if I were to attempt putting the boat back on the trailer. Do some folks haul their boats out of the water with the engine in complete downward position? I've never tried, and I didn't want to risk somehow hitting the ramp with my prop.
(2007 angler with original stock Suzuki.)

I fumbled around with limit switches, fuses, manual, and you tube info with no luck fixing the problem.
The swim step was too close to the manual adjustment screw to be accessed while on the water too. Darkness was no help either.

Anyway, I chose to spend a chilly night on the water and had the boat hauled out early this morning at a nearby marina with a large fork truck.
A Suzuki mechanic got it working fine without actually doing anything. He suggested maybe it was a bubble in fluid or corroded connection to solenoid.
Knowing that I could be in the same position on another trip, I wanted to know if it is doable or adviseable to haul the boat out in down position.
Thanks.

If this posts twice like always, I apologize in advance:)
Click to expand...



There is a plastic clamp with a lever around the tilt tube on your motor this shuts off the UP of the tilt. (its adjustable) Mine came loose once & I had the same scenario. YMMV
:wink:
 
With our 22’ and Suzuki 115, we have at least 8” of clearance from the skeg to ground. I retrieve and travel with the motor down, which is Suzuki’s recommendation (or a transom saver). Our trailer is a tandem axle
E Z Loader bunk model.
 
I always feel the day is not over until I hit something....on land or sea...I have never hit anything at a ramp...but I once hit a dead animal when towing with the motor down...so I don't do that anymore...sure glad it was not a skunk..

Joel
SEA3PO
 
On SleepyC I have skeg protectors that add a couple of inches to the bottom of the skeg, AND I lowered my bunks 3 inches a couple of years ago. NO way I could go up the ramp with the OB's down. (Besides, at the top of the ramp are the fuel fill and man hole covers that stick up from the pavement grade about 2 inches.) I have seen them get hit, take out aluminum props and break off skegs. Why would anyone want to take that chance?

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_070.thumb.jpg
 
Thanks for all the replies.
I checked clearance on level ground, and it looks like I have about 3" or so.
That's too small for me to feel comfortable leaving it down when pulling out.....so I guess I made the right call.

Next time I'll have a t handle small shaft screwdriver to better access the manual tilt.
Also I'll plan to keep a spare pillow and blanket onboard just in case.
 
Great points! Even in our dinghies we carry a "ditch bag"--which contains among other things: a small pair of vise grips, a multi bit screw driver, weatherman tool, and a small crescent wrench. There are a couple of mylar "space blankets" and plastic ponchos. We also carry a bag with an extra jacket / pants(foul weather gear), a set of upper and lower sweat pants, swim suit and clean under wear and heavy sox. In addition a couple of bottles of water and some high energy bars are in the dry bag. I have only needed to use all of these things a few times--but worth their weight in gold.

One early evening I had been shooting some tidal salt water rapids in the dinghy. I had helped another boat get on down as the tide went out; by the time we got him clear, it was too shoal for me to get our RIB out. I called Marie on the hand held VHF, and told her I would be back about 3 AM when the tide was back up --and cuddled went to sleep on the floor of the dinghy--warm and safe.
 
Every tow rig, boat and trailer is different. The lead mechanic at Sportcraft Marina in Portland, Or. told us to tow with the kicker motor down but never the main because it would be too low to the ground. This recommendation has been working well for us.
 
Some boat/trailer combinations may have the motor's skeg riding high enough for most situations on the road with the motor leg down, but then when you try to enter a driveway, cross a water gutter in a parking lot, a speed bump, or some other uneven feature, the motor's skeg bottoms out, grounding down hard on the asphalt or concrete. If you do it Big Time, you can even scratch up the prop! :embarrased

I've found out the hard way a time or two. Don't ask! :lol:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
As I stated earlier, I trim the motor up for launching and retrieving. However, I trailer with it down. I am aware of it's ground clearance, which suffices for most driveways. However, there are occasional situations where I will leave the driveway at an angle to help dissipate some of the depth, or use a different driveway. (Speaking of gas stations or other parking lots.) Colby
 
If you change tow vehicles or borrow a tow vehicle (like i did for seasonal in once and out once be aware: hitch height and bumper height can change things up in a hurry as to skeg clearances!
 
Fairbro":lbwrxagk said:
If you change tow vehicles or borrow a tow vehicle (like i did for seasonal in once and out once be aware: hitch height and bumper height can change things up in a hurry as to skeg clearances!
Click to expand...

For several reasons: tire wear, braking, and safety. the boat should always be towed with trailer frame level and parallel to the road. This can be accomplished with either an adjustable height hitch or a series of drop and raise hitches. I have accumulated at least a dozen thru the years....The adjustable is a far better idea!
 
Very good point from Dr. Bob and Minnie Swann. In an earlier post I mentioned witnessing a guy drag his lower unit all the way up the ramp (motor in down position) while pulling out of the marina launch. The problem was most likely that the ball hitch was too high on his tow vehicle or maybe he had not quite pulled the boat up all the way onto the trailer.
 
thataway":kav4bndf said:
Fairbro":kav4bndf said:
If you change tow vehicles or borrow a tow vehicle (like i did for seasonal in once and out once be aware: hitch height and bumper height can change things up in a hurry as to skeg clearances!
Click to expand...

For several reasons: tire wear, braking, and safety. the boat should always be towed with trailer frame level and parallel to the road. This can be accomplished with either an adjustable height hitch or a series of drop and raise hitches. I have accumulated at least a dozen thru the years....The adjustable is a far better idea!
Click to expand...

Having the trailer frame level is especially important if you are pulling a tandem axle trailer. Towing a tandem axle that is not leveled will create extra wear due to weight differential increase on the axle on the lower end of the trailer.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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