CD25 Cockpit Steps
- Thread starter designbug
- Start date
Are you talking about the boxes which are on the forward end of the cockpit on both sides--which have the fuel fill hose going thru them? (under the inspection plate?
If so--what is wrong with the "step boxes" you have? It probably is easier to repair the fiberglass boxes than to put in new ones....I believe that the new boats are different.
If you just want steps--a number of people have used portable steps, which can be moved from side to side.
Here is one solution.
Here is one solution--this is on a 16, but I have seen similar steps used on 22 and 25 foot C Dorys.
If so--what is wrong with the "step boxes" you have? It probably is easier to repair the fiberglass boxes than to put in new ones....I believe that the new boats are different.
If you just want steps--a number of people have used portable steps, which can be moved from side to side.
Here is one solution.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for responding. I am talking about the boxes which are on the forward end of the cockpit on both sides.
I keep the boat in the water year round and the boxes are showing wear. One of them separated from the side so I removed it and the balsa core inside the box (step) is almost completely rotted out - the other one is not far behind. Do you think these could be repaired?
Thanks, Dick
Thanks for responding. I am talking about the boxes which are on the forward end of the cockpit on both sides.
I keep the boat in the water year round and the boxes are showing wear. One of them separated from the side so I removed it and the balsa core inside the box (step) is almost completely rotted out - the other one is not far behind. Do you think these could be repaired?
Thanks, Dick
Yes. Unfortunately these were just put in place with some sealant, and not properly tabbed in as they should have been. Of course if they are tabbed in with fiberglass, it the tank or hose has to be removed, then the tabbing would be cut.
I would grind any mat off the back, and build a new core, with any material--from foam, plywood or balsa--doesn't really make any difference here. Plywood is available, and I would seal it with epoxy and put a layer of cloth on the back, seal the edges and the access port with epoxy. It will last the lifetime of the boat then.
The next question is how to put it back in place. I probably would use some very narrow tabbing, with 6oz glass and epoxy, and paint the step with something like KiwiGrip. One of the bed liners would also be an option. You could use "Hatteras White" paint with some micro beads mixed in. Lots of options at this point.
I would grind any mat off the back, and build a new core, with any material--from foam, plywood or balsa--doesn't really make any difference here. Plywood is available, and I would seal it with epoxy and put a layer of cloth on the back, seal the edges and the access port with epoxy. It will last the lifetime of the boat then.
The next question is how to put it back in place. I probably would use some very narrow tabbing, with 6oz glass and epoxy, and paint the step with something like KiwiGrip. One of the bed liners would also be an option. You could use "Hatteras White" paint with some micro beads mixed in. Lots of options at this point.
South of Heaven
New member
Hi Dick. I had that exact same problem on my 2007 25. Are you sure the entire step is rotted? On mine it was just like 2 or 3 inches around the perimeter. I just dug out all the rotted stuff and filled it with epoxy to the edges. It came out pretty good.
I also had some rot around the cockpit sole center round hatch. I did the same thing for that rot. However it wasn't easy taking out the cockpit sole. It's a 2 man job because the sole is HEAVY. It's not a bad idea to check it though. Especially since you already had rot in the steps. Another benefit to removing the sole is that you can examine the fuel tank (top/sides only).
Good luck! I posted a thread on this last year I think. I think it's pitiful that the factory didn't seal the steps properly. It would've taken them an extra 10 minutes to do it correctly. FRUSTRATING.
I also had some rot around the cockpit sole center round hatch. I did the same thing for that rot. However it wasn't easy taking out the cockpit sole. It's a 2 man job because the sole is HEAVY. It's not a bad idea to check it though. Especially since you already had rot in the steps. Another benefit to removing the sole is that you can examine the fuel tank (top/sides only).
Good luck! I posted a thread on this last year I think. I think it's pitiful that the factory didn't seal the steps properly. It would've taken them an extra 10 minutes to do it correctly. FRUSTRATING.
Marco Flamingo
Active member
I bought two folding steps similar to these, but never used them.
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/sea-dog ... gLNY_D_BwE
They would require a substantial backing plate on the fiberglass panel, plus, they seemed a little "fiddley." If I was on the dock and hadn't flipped them down, then reaching in to do that would be approximately the same contortion as just performing a barrel roll into the cockpit. Even when extended, it requires a careful and exacting placement of the foot. They may work better on a different model C Dory. I was thinking of taking them to Friday Harbor.
What I ended up using was a small plastic folding step stool. It is also used as part of my "Enclosed Head," as shown in my photos. I still have to remember to set it up before climbing out on to the dock, but it folds flat and stows away easily, serves several functions, is cheap, can't bang or scratch things, requires no drilling, etc. They are available in several heights and sizes.
Mark
http://www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com/sea-dog ... gLNY_D_BwE
They would require a substantial backing plate on the fiberglass panel, plus, they seemed a little "fiddley." If I was on the dock and hadn't flipped them down, then reaching in to do that would be approximately the same contortion as just performing a barrel roll into the cockpit. Even when extended, it requires a careful and exacting placement of the foot. They may work better on a different model C Dory. I was thinking of taking them to Friday Harbor.
What I ended up using was a small plastic folding step stool. It is also used as part of my "Enclosed Head," as shown in my photos. I still have to remember to set it up before climbing out on to the dock, but it folds flat and stows away easily, serves several functions, is cheap, can't bang or scratch things, requires no drilling, etc. They are available in several heights and sizes.
Mark
Salmon Fisher
Member
We have the steps that Dr. Bob referenced with a picture. We have the wood treads.
We also had them on the 22.
They work great and are very sturdy.
We also had them on the 22.
They work great and are very sturdy.
journey on
New member
I repaired the cockpit steps a few years age. Here's the link: Cockpit Recaulk.
The steps needed to be rebuilt, recaulked and refastened, which I did. Pictures.
Boris
The steps needed to be rebuilt, recaulked and refastened, which I did. Pictures.
Boris
I removed both, routed out the bad balsa and filled with West Systems epoxy. (Man that stuff is expensive!) I even routed out the access hatches to back-fill even though they were dry. I'm letting the epoxy dry on the edges before I tackle that.
The port side was worse than starboard for some reason. The bottoms and port-side forward edge had pretty much rotted about 1/2" deep. All the other edges were still nice, dry white balsa so I just painted on epoxy to seal them off.
Whatever sealant the factory used in 2007 was crap. Everything came apart way too easily. I'm re-bedding them with 3M 4000.
Pics in our album. [/b]
The port side was worse than starboard for some reason. The bottoms and port-side forward edge had pretty much rotted about 1/2" deep. All the other edges were still nice, dry white balsa so I just painted on epoxy to seal them off.
Whatever sealant the factory used in 2007 was crap. Everything came apart way too easily. I'm re-bedding them with 3M 4000.
Pics in our album. [/b]
All installed with 3M 4000. I also removed the access ports above the tank sender and bilge pump..and yep, exposed balsa. :roll: So, repeat of the procedure; router out balsa about 3/8" deep, drill out screw holes, fill all with thickened West Systems epoxy.
Once I install the new hatches the bilge/cockpit sole etc should be dry and rot proof now. 8)
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
Once I install the new hatches the bilge/cockpit sole etc should be dry and rot proof now. 8)
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php
Looks good, but now you have the nice step seal, and the grungy caulk (like I have) all around the fuel tank hatch! Options? remove all of the caulk and replace. Or Clean up the top, maybe cut out about 1/3 of it, and put in 4000? Also Locktite has a similar compound (which I am trying out--and seems good): Loctite PL Marine Fast Cure Adhesive Sealant,
I don't mind pulling, rebuilding the steps. Unfortunately they have been left by the previous owner for a long time and the gel coat is in poor shape with spider cracks throughout. I am thinking it might be best to give the steps to a fiberglass shop and let them take crack at it, the waffle pattern can't be all that unusual. In fact, it would be nice to have them come out slightly wider and longer. Anyone had something larger made?
I went through the same process earlier this year with the steps on my boat, which I think is only a year different than yours. I remember this thread from a few years ago, which reminded me that delaying action on Bob Austin's advice is generally not a good idea. The balsa core had rotted to a few inches deep, but the steps themselves were in decent shape.
I like the idea of constructing something a little wider, though you'll not want to be too generous or risk interfering with the back door when fully opened.
I like the idea of constructing something a little wider, though you'll not want to be too generous or risk interfering with the back door when fully opened.
The size of the steps like all in a boat--there is a compromise. For some, they want a set of several steps, and don't mind giving up cockpit room. often the 2 or even 3 step modification (usually teak treads and SS rails), can be moved from side to side.
You are correct that the "waffle pattern" is not the best non skid. In boats where I re-did the deck, I have used various grits in paint and in epoxy, than painted over. The most aggressive material I have used was ground up walnut shells (they are used to polish fan blades of jet engines, and I bought a lifetime supply from McDonald Douglas's surplus store in Long Beach CA--many years ago. The lest agreesive I have used was micro beads of glass. Sand (as well as non skid) comes in may grits. I once used a fairly "sharp" sand when redoing deck paints on a racing boat--and managed to wear right thru a pair of foul weather gear on the side decks in a couple of days sailing...
You are correct that the "waffle pattern" is not the best non skid. In boats where I re-did the deck, I have used various grits in paint and in epoxy, than painted over. The most aggressive material I have used was ground up walnut shells (they are used to polish fan blades of jet engines, and I bought a lifetime supply from McDonald Douglas's surplus store in Long Beach CA--many years ago. The lest agreesive I have used was micro beads of glass. Sand (as well as non skid) comes in may grits. I once used a fairly "sharp" sand when redoing deck paints on a racing boat--and managed to wear right thru a pair of foul weather gear on the side decks in a couple of days sailing...