CD-25 Throttle and Shift Cable Length

[colbysmith]

Did a quick search, and couldn't find an answer, so I'll start a new thread. I may need to replace my throttle and shift cables on my 2009 CD-25, single screw, and wondering if anyone knows what length cables are needed. They run from the throttle at the helm, down inside the starboard gunnel, to a single outboard in the center of the transom. TIA. Colby

 

[tsturm]

Should be a # on the existing cables about every 18" or so that has the length.
21 or 22' rings a bell I changed mine last year, if the boat was here I would go look!

 

[colbysmith]

Should be a # on the existing cables about every 18" or so that has the length.
21 or 22' rings a bell I changed mine last year, if the boat was here I would go look!

Found it. Thanks. 24’

 

[tsturm]

Leave one in there and use it for a fish tape to get the new ones in!

 

[colbysmith]

Leave one in there and use it for a fish tape to get the new ones in!

Yep. That is my plan. I also purchased a couple of coupling nuts to connect the cables together to make it easier to just pull them thru.
(I've also pulled out my drawers, and their cabinet, under the helm seat for better access, along with the side compartment in the cockpit.) Just waiting on the cables, which should be here Friday or Saturday.

 

[tsturm]

Have a good one!!!!

 

[thataway]

We keep a spool of 500 feet of 1/8" solid nylon line to use as a follower. Every time we pull a wire or cable, there is a pull line attatched with a knot and many times covered with electrical tape, to smooth the knot where attatched to whatever is being pulled for future use. There are also many uses for the 1/8" cord, as well as smaller venitian blind cord at 1.8 mm which has a number of uses also. These in bulk run about $20 for 500 feet--which may be a life time use. We prefer the solid braid, over the cored line. I will usually put a lable on each end, with date and what it pulled on both ends, which are usually tied to some "solid" object with a bowline or clove hitch, and two half hitches. Sort of the duct tape of boating. (which we also carry)

 

[colbysmith]

We keep a spool of 500 feet of 1/8" solid nylon line to use as a follower. Every time we pull a wire or cable, there is a pull line attatched with a knot and many times covered with electrical tape, to smooth the knot where attatched to whatever is being pulled for future use. There are also many uses for the 1/8" cord, as well as smaller venitian blind cord at 1.8 mm which has a number of uses also. These in bulk run about $20 for 500 feet--which may be a life time use. We prefer the solid braid, over the cored line. I will usually put a lable on each end, with date and what it pulled on both ends, which are usually tied to some "solid" object with a bowline or clove hitch, and two half hitches. Sort of the duct tape of boating. (which we also carry)

Could be a good idea. However, I do have plenty of other line on the boat, larger of course, for various uses. Fortunately, at home I have two electrical fishing tapes.

However, in this case, having a coupling nut to attach the old and new cable together should be the easiest method to pull the new cable in.

 

[thataway]

Yes the best is to try and pull each individually. The problem you may run into is the number of zip ties on the bundle, which may have to be cut. It is not always easiest to pullwith the previous cable. This is the route that most of your cables will need.

This run is going to be used for all sorts of other wires, and it is nice to just keep a follower of light line there.

 

[colbysmith]

Yes the best is to try and pull each individually. The problem you may run into is the number of zip ties on the bundle, which may have to be cut. It is not always easiest to pullwith the previous cable. This is the route that most of your cables will need.

This run is going to be used for all sorts of other wires, and it is nice to just keep a follower of light line there.

Regardless what method is used to "pull" the cables through, zip ties will likely need to be cut if they are installed tightly. Fortunately for me, I've reran so many wires along this area, I have not overly tightened the zip ties. Pulling the cables by connecting them directly to the old cables with a coupling nut is going to provide the best method for running them through several bulkheads. Also, by removing the drawers and cabinet under the helm seat, and the starboard cockpit compartment, I will have quite a bit of open access to monitor the cable movement or to help it along.
. My initial reason for this thread was only finding the cable length. The boat was not at home, but rather a mile away in a storage unit. I was hoping to get the length before opening up those access areas. However, once opened, I was able to ascertain the length off the old cables. Actually fishing the cables into position is a routine I've done more times than I like to admit... but with wires and hydraulic hoses. Actually connecting them to the remote control and main outboard will be a new procedure for me. I did replace cables on my kicker, and assume it shouldn't be any harder on my main. I have also already pulled the remote control up out of the shelf next to the helm. And removed the backing from it. I'm hoping everything goes back together fairly easy, and adjusting the cables will be straight forward also. This issue began as I was having a rough shift into reverse, and to fix that I adjusted the cable away from the adjustment mark on the shift position switch. In the process, the shift switch tab got bent, causing the engine warning light to stay on. IOW, fixing one thing created a domino affect of problems. The cables are likely original, so over 15 years old. They say they should be replaced after 10 years. I've also got a new switch on order, so I'm hoping when it's all done, everything lines up, shifts easy, and no play in the throttle.