C-Voyager's 24" hull extension

Oh! Oh! Oh! I've seen this before! Seigfreid and Roy used to toss a big cloth over this and - Abracadabra! - it appears again as a whole boat. There may have been a girl in a skimpy outfit involved with her feet wiggling on one side and her head moving on the other. :crook I think there was some smoke and mirrors, but I don't remember a Sawzall and fiberglass dust!

Dave, you are one tough dude... I know you have studied this and planned for it; I also admire your determination. I would be wetting myself and making little whimpering noises if I ever saw my boat in two pieces! :shock:

Wishing you great success with this project.

Best wishes,
Jim & Joan B.
 
Seigfried & Roy...dats a good one.
Damn I hope you don't lose any parts or get them stired up and assembled backwards :)

I'll wager that you end up with a unique, neat boat.

somebody needs to figure a way to add a slide out for true boaterhomeing comfort
 
Wow!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: Your hard core! No turning back now! When some guys want a challenge they try to run a mile under five minuets or climb a mountain. Now cut your boat in half?????? This is a new one. :lol: This is way cool!!!!! I admire your courage and understand your desire. Very neat!!!!!!! :thup

Take lots of photos if you don't you will wish you had. Trust me.

Would you please take a closeup photo of the balsa core for reference while its still exposed?

So whats the game plan? Braces for alinement? Forms on the outside? You going conventional Polyester or Epoxy?


Chris Bulovsky
Washburn Wi
 
Dave, I'm following this interesting/challenging project as well. When I compare your photo #3 that shows the projected "line of cut" and the actual cut that you performed, they appear to be different. (Was this a last minute change or just a Seigfried and Roy illusion?) If a change, what thought process brought that on?
 
Dave,
If you just glued the transom back on you would have a truly one of a kind 12' C-Dory... I admire your vision and look forward to watching your progress. Best of luck.
 
DaveS":1map4t99 said:
Dave, I'm following this interesting/challenging project as well. When I compare your photo #3 that shows the projected "line of cut" and the actual cut that you performed, they appear to be different. (Was this a last minute change or just a Seigfried and Roy illusion?) If a change, what thought process brought that on?
Click to expand...
DaveS – throughout the process we kept revising our cut line. Never really finalized it until everything had been pulled off the boat.

When I posted my first photos, we were leaning towards the angle cut. Then just before we started the cut, we went home to sleep on it. Next day, got together and again discussed the pros and cons of a straight cut and angle cut. Both have their advantages, but the straight cut won out.

The main points of the different cuts are:
I believe the straight cut will be easier to blend in the three parts and it will be easier to build saddle tanks, because the hull will continue in a straighter line before tapering in.
The main advantage to the angled cut is - I believe it would have been a bit stronger and possibly less noticeable. (Although our plan is for the joints to be invisible.)

Seeing as I had already posted the photos, and there was discussion on the thread about it, I decided to leave one of the photos.
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Dave dlt.gif
 
Holy cow you cut your boat in half! :xseek :xseek :xseek . This will go down in C-Brats history. I'm going to love watching your progress on this thread.
 
Boris – the cut was made with a skill saw with a special blade.

I have to make something clear, I am not doing all the work. I have two people working with me (one is my brother) and each has a special skill. I would like to take all the credit for the work but as I said, I have help. My brother is the best fabricator and welder I know. RedFox is good but I believe my brother is better. I am good at whatever I decide to do but I wanted to make sure this job is done perfect, that’s why I went for the best help I could get.

That is not me or my brother in the white suit. I figured one of the C-Brats would recognize him.

There are more pictures of the progress in my Boat Projects album.

Tomorrow afternoon I am heading to the boat show then the Hawthorn for the get together. Hope to see many of you there.
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Dave dlt.gif
 
Beautiful cut! Looking forward to watching the re-construction. Beside superb craftmanship (on the part of those doing the reconstrction and the origional builders) this shows how well built the c Dory is. The average boat this size would not hold up to a cut like this like the C Dory does. Also note how thight the laminate and balsa core is laminated.
 
It has been going slower than I anticipated. I was too busy to spend a lot of time on the boat project in the last two weeks, but did get a little more done on it. I have posted more photos in my Hull Extension album.

I had hoped the project would be finished in time for the Poulsbo CBGT, but does not look good at this time. The hull should be finished in a couple of weeks, but I will have a lot of additional work to do before I am ready for the water.

I will have some items for sale that will be replaced. They include:
• Camper back canvas (photos here)
• Bow rail (SOLD)
• Steering cable
• Engine shift and throttle controls
• Bottom Line (Tournament 3310 Fish Finder +) photo here

At this time, I do not have any idea what they are worth. If anyone is interested, make what you consider a reasonable offer and it is yours.
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Dave dlt.gif
 
Looking great. Am I correct that you screwed the plywood on the bottom and planks on the side to the hull, then put a mold release material on the inside of the plywood/planks? Really great way to do this. My guess is that will be just as strong as the origional boat--or maybe stronger.
 
Chris – there was no change on the stern section after the cut. The bow section closed up about 3/32nds of an inch but it is also possible we just miss measured it by that much. Bob’s description below your post is correct on how we did the outside mold.

Bob – you are 100% right on your assumptions.

We will use 1-1/4 inch balsa in the floor instead of 1-1/2 inch. That will allow us to add additional fiberglass to the hull where they are joined.
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Dave dlt.gif
 
Generally a well cured fiberglass hull will not deform if you cut it. We cut the transom out of a Cal 46. Sweat time to see if it would move--not a millimeter. The C Dory is so well built I would not expect it to change.

Now--who is going to lengthen the 22's--make the fore bunk longer, and add a head? One of the features of fiberglass--it is strong when you re-laminate a hull and can be fairly easily faired--and then painted or even gelcoated.
 
hi dave,
just read your post regarding the extentsion. have one quick question. how do you maintain the structural integrity of the hull?
wood working is one of my hobbies, can't figure out how you join to pieces together and not have them buckle under pressure.
also, what is the thickness of the hull? and do you know if that thickness is the same for the 22' model?
thanks for sharing this project.
pat
 
Pat – the C-Dory is so well built to start with; there was no flexing of the hull when it was cut in half. The fiberglass and gel-coat is about 7/32 inch thick, and then the floor has a 1-1/2 inch balsa wood core so the bottom is 1-23/32 inch thick. The top of the deck cap is about 1/2 inch thick (could be a little more, I forget the exact measurement). It also has a balsa wood core.

I have just added today’s progress photos to my album. If you look at the photos in sequence, I think it will become clear how the extension was done.

Sunday the side and bottom planks should come off.
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Dave dlt.gif* *
 
Dave,
I sent you an e-mail. I am interested in the Bow Rail for my 1987-16' angler, "Palomino". Great job you are doing on the Voyager!


John Tribuzio (JT)
Reno, NV
 
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