C-Dory Factory Cutting Corners?

Wow, there is no question that Joel has done a great job with that table.

On the 25' the factory is offering rounded corners. That looks great too direct from the factory.

I'm not sure I can curve my corners due to the corner edge already being taken off by the factory. But it certainly seems worht a look see.

Gary R.
 
Gary, I don't know if this would apply to your situation, but have you seen those "iron on" strips of thin wood trim for plywood edges? You can buy the thin wood with or without adhesive already on them. Just glue it to the edge, let it dry, then really easy to file, sand,or otherwise trim the thin edge flush. If that would work, it would require the fewest tools and skilled labor...

I am impressed with the workmanship on those rounded edge additions in the pics. John
 
Gotta figure out something to do with dem corners....where the teak is mitered, it's downright pokey...maybe need to forgo the ease in cleanng crumbs and put teak around the cutoffs too...dunno yet
 
If you like, I could send you enough teak molding to cover those cut-off sectiions... then all you would have to do is miter the joints and they would look better... could sand some to round em some...

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Thanks Joel! As we get going on our new projects, we'll figure out if that's what we will do...Steve said he might just be able to hand sand them down so they're not so pointy. We'll see...we've spent most of today putting things in the boat, loading her up for next weekend! FINALLY! :)
 
Here's how I dealt with the raw wood corners left on C-Cakes dining table by the factory.

I had some scrap mahogany, cut two pieces the same dimensions as the trim on the table, sanded the white paint off the cut corners, cut the mahogany to approximate shape including a cutdown to keep the ability to sweep crumbs off the table, glued the mahogany on the two corners using blue tape as the clamps, protected the table top with blue masking tape, shaped the mahogany with sandpaper and a rasp, fine sanded, removed the tape, oiled with tung oil. Done. Total worktime except for glueup drying, about one to two hours. Pictures on page 2 of C-Cakes album. (I don't know how to post them here.)

An easy job except for being careful to not mar the white table surface (I was almost :oops: completely successful there.)
 
When I was in Calif last week, I visited H & L Marine, who used to make all manor of teak accessories for boats. They have several corner's of teak molding and I will be looking at this as a source of molding for the table. Unfortunately H & L was in short supply of many of their products and do not have a web site. I will let the group know if their moldings will fit the "newer" raw edge table corners...or I will make some moldings of my own. I agree that the painted wood does not fit the rest of the boat.
 
After a week long shake down cruise, my first mate of 40 years thought the table corners were the greatest thing since sliced bread! Easiest way yet to wipe up the crumbs I leave behind. The teak fixes are nice looking but....
 
The "teak fixes" can allow the sweeping off of crumbs--but give a much more finished look. The corners can either be raised or the same level as the surface of the table. There was traditionally a reason for the fiddles around tables--and that was to prevent dishes from sliding off. None skid materials help to prevent this...We had raised fiddles, with a glass overlay on the C Dory 22, and found it to not be a problem. The objection I have, is that it looks "Rough" where the layers of plywood are visiable on the edge of the table--certainly more so than one would expect in a $120,000 dollar boat (including engines, trailer, accessories and taxes).
 
Well, the rounded raw corners seem to be moot. When I recieved my new Tom Cat 255 today, the corners of the table were square and had raised teak fiddles!

There are a number of changes--all for the better my boat over the other boats I have seen in the last 3 months. Definately lots of upgrades.
 
Oops--I found that the shower drain was not attatched to the hose--and the hose did not seem to have a proper fall (should be 1/4" a foot, this is level, perhaps even a dip....

Manual for the head was for a Jabsco--I got a Sea Land head....

No manual for the windlass.

However, Jeff at C Dory is responsive to the issues--and there were a few extra things done on the boat--I guess to compensate for those things which we had requested and were not done.....There is always a trade off.

My comments are in the spirit of helping C Dory to improve the breed.
 
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