Buying a C-dory that's been in salt water or marina moored

S

Sneaks

New member
I haven't seen this specific topic discussed before on C-Brats so here goes.

What's the big deal about wanting a boat that has been used only in fresh water? A well maintained C-Dory is just as valuable wherever it's been. Engine flushing works. Most, if not all outboards do not touch the water when raised. Electronics? Sure, being around salt water does create a more corrosive atmosphere, but most new owners want to put their own favorite electronics on board and the usual problems (corroded fuses/switches etc.) aren't that difficult or expensive to replace.

Ever see Halcyon? 20,000 nautical miles, one rewire job, one set of new engines, one somewhat obsolescent skipper.

Yes, I/O and inboard powered boats definitely suffer from long term salt water exposure but the C-Dory seems to do quite well.

Your opinion?
 
My understanding of the fouling/deterioration of wood portions of boats, including cores, is that fresh water supports higher levels of damaging organisms than salt water.

Also, blistering can be worse on fresh water boats left in the water due to the increased osmotic pressure of fresh water.

However, the 'easy-to-see' corrosion of unprotected metal parts leads one to think that salt water is the more damaging.

I just took my TomCat, which had been accumulating crud on the hull in a freshwater lake to establish a 'scum line' for bottom painting, down to the Gulf of Mexico for about 10 days. After 10 days in salt water, all the growth and scum had fallen off! The hull was too clean to easily even see the old growth scum line! Also, the Zebra mussels cannot handle the salt water and running a boat in salt water kills the larvae. You're much more likely to end up with clogged internal plumbing from zebra mussels on a fresh water boat.

Just one guy's experiences,

John
 
matt_unique":26dfwo0h said:
Things corrode faster near the salt. Beyond that it's the issue of engine cooling. Your outboards are trimmed out of the water when not in use, but it's salt water running through all the internal components to cool the engine while running. If you slip you can connect the muffs and flush out the salt. If used on a mooring, as will be the case for my boats, you would need an awfully long hose ;) My plan was to flush one engine at the loading dock (I will get twins) then use the other to power back to my mooring. I will switch and flush the next engine on the next trip, and use the other to power back to the mooring.

Is there a way these days to flush your engines on muffs without a shore supplied hose?
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My Yamaha can be easily flushed at the dock using the same hose I wash the "Jenny B" down with. Most slips here have fresh water hose connections and the Yamaha doesn't need muffs to flush, there's a hose connection up by the cowl. Same connection can be used to provide a warm water shower if in fresh water. Salt water too, if you like a warm salt water shower....

Don
 
Sneaks":3iqyytdl said:
matt_unique":3iqyytdl said:
Things corrode faster near the salt. Beyond that it's the issue of engine cooling. Your outboards are trimmed out of the water when not in use, but it's salt water running through all the internal components to cool the engine while running. If you slip you can connect the muffs and flush out the salt. If used on a mooring, as will be the case for my boats, you would need an awfully long hose ;) My plan was to flush one engine at the loading dock (I will get twins) then use the other to power back to my mooring. I will switch and flush the next engine on the next trip, and use the other to power back to the mooring.

Is there a way these days to flush your engines on muffs without a shore supplied hose?
Click to expand...

My Yamaha can be easily flushed at the dock using the same hose I wash the "Jenny B" down with. Most slips here have fresh water hose connections and the Yamaha doesn't need muffs to flush, there's a hose connection up by the cowl. Same connection can be used to provide a warm water shower if in fresh water. Salt water too, if you like a warm salt water shower....

Don
Click to expand...

Thanks for copying my errant reply into the correct thread!

At a slip you're golden, at a mooring you will need to power from the loading dock out to your mooring thus running salt water back into at least one engine.

Along those lines, is there any way to flush an outboard engine from a mooring these days? It sounds like a crazy question as I ask but there are some creative engineers here....
 
Sneaks-

Even if what you say is true about the minimalization of corrosive damage of salt water and air in the outboard powered C-Dorys, and the relative simplicity of repair and replacement of systems, as long as "freshwater boats only" are available, they will always be sought after over those used in, and especially moored in, salt water.

But it's not that simple.

Driving this issue are two major concerns.

First is the relative longevity of the C-Dory boat, and second is the quality of components used to complete the hull.

Since at least twenty, thirty, or even more years of hull life can be expected from these boats, the quality of components used in them and their storage conditions become of paramount importance.

This means that using non-stainless L-brackets, for recent example, would be a no-no, as would z-mac (chrome plated zinc metal) hardware, carbon steel screws, non-anodized aluminum tube, etc. Look at a 20 year old Bayliner to see the proof of this! Fortunately, for the most part, C-Dory does use quality components, but even the high-quality components used are not entirerly immune to the effects of weathering, and even the mighty C-Dory must indeed have a limited life-span, determined largely by the conditions spent in the storage mode.

As we've said, exactly how much life will be left for the next owner of the boat at any given age will largely depend on the quality of the hardware and other components used to finish the hull. This includes not only the metal items, but the windows and frames, the wood trim, the galley and head fixtures, the wiring, plumbing, motor controls, and the electrical and electronic components, etc.

Now let's turn to the consideration of the severity of storage conditions. Salt water and air are known enemies of not only metals, but just about everything used in the construction of boats! And not only are boats corroded and oxidized more severly in salt water and air, but even shore bound cars from these areas experience the some of these deterimental effects!

While some parts of the boat may well be easy to replace, others are not, and very few are inexpensive. A smart used boat buyer will figure into the cost of a boat the expense incurred to replace needed components, and few will be cheap at the local marine dealer. Used boats, do, in fact, pass a point at which it is no longer economically possible to refit or "revive" them!

You can argue that the electronics have a limited life expectancy due to becoming outdated, and while this is true to many folks who feel they need the latest in technology for piloting and safety, many others don't need the very latest to go out cruising and find their way home, and it's disappointing to find your electronics lifespan limited by the all-consuming unseen enemy in the air!

Because of these many connsiderations, I feel that as long as fresh water only boats are available, they will be sought after, just as are cars that not used in salt air environments and salted road conditions.

Those stored in or around salt water will be less desirable, period!

Joe.
 
The CD 25 I purchased was salt water stored for 5 months a year--and then dry stored during the winter. From what I have seen the dry storage and abuse was harder than the actual salt water. The only salt water issue is that the engine had been left down instead of raised out of the water. Thus there is some corrosion on the leg of the outboard. Otherwise there is no effect of the salt water on the boat--I removed all of the "ferrous L" brackets, so these are no longer a problem.

Frequent Sea, (the 25) is the second C Dory I have owned which has been used in Salt water. The first one (22) had been repowered since salt water.

The beauty of the CD is if they are maintained and dont' suffer core intrustion, they should be extremely long lasting boats---not 20 years--50 or 60 years...The salt vs fresh should not make much difference except engines. When we cut up 20 boats as part of a study, some of these were over 40 years old, and they were almost as good as when new in the laminate, unless they had been abused. The Coast Guard did studies on some 20 year old boats built in the early 40's and they tested just as good as when new. (fiberglass laminate delfection and strenght were tested)
 
If you need to flush the outboard on a mooring it is easy if you have a fresh water washdown and a yamaha. Not sure about other engine flush fittings. Just connect the fresh water washdown hose to the fitting and flush away. Works good when you can't pull the boat from the water.
 
Hi Folks,

I have a 1983 Angler Classic and I am the third owner. This boat spent most of its life in Alaska. When I purchased it, water had gotten in the transom. When I repowered, I had the transom rebuilt.

I know of no place else where water has gotten into the core. Maybe it has, but I can not find it. If ir has, the fiberglass is so tough that it way not be a problem.

I try and maintain the boat to the best of my ability and that is why it should out last me. (I am 68 years old and do not plan to purchase another boat.)

The boat has spent its life in salt water. I would rather get salt water in the core than fresh water.

The engine I own is a 4 stroke 70 HP Yamaha. I have it professionally maintain once a year, because it is still on warranty. It may cost a little more, but I think it will last longer if I continue this path. Except where Bill and El wore out their engines, I believe that most engine problems are from short changing regular maintenance. The pro will see things early. They have to attend Yamaha School on a regular basis to keep their certification, and would hear of common problems that may crop up.

A boat is like a women, the more you love it, the more it returns the love. (At least I heard that it is true.)

Fred
 
Fred.
The only coring in your boat is in the transom. The deck and forward deck is plywood encapslated in epoxy. Your boat will be around after your long gone. Leave it to your grand-kids. Jack on C-Otter
 
Fred said,
A boat is like a women, the more you love it, the more it returns the love. (At least I heard that it is true.)
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It is true. A lesson many men don't ever get.

But you have to love them at the heart level first if you ever want to get the full monty. I'm still working on getting it right.
 
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