Bunk guide-ons
- Thread starter pcator
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Captains Cat
New member
I think that, on most trailers, it's adjustable and depends on your personal preference.
Matt Gurnsey
New member
We set them up within an inch (or so) of the boat as well.
Captains Cat
New member
I don't have a 25 so can't say for sure but isn't the stern narrower than the beamiest (widest) part of the boat? If so, when the boat is on the trailer, given that the guide ons are more toward the stern, they'd be more than an inch from the hull....Ther TC is easy, in that the tunnel keeps it centered just about exactly going on the trailer!! :wink:
Charlie
Charlie
pcator":10qty6gg said:
Patrick, are you going to use the high guides (up closer to the gunnels) or the low guides?
My homemade guides are halfway between the rub rail and the waterline, 1.5" clear on both sides, and I can see if the boat is centered on the trailer before I come out of the water.
BTW...your generator bracket is ready for a test fit!
My guides are away about 3 inches, half way up.
I have been a little paranoid about the guides actually touching the gel coat thinking they might be abrasive enough to scratch it on a long road trip.
Have any of you found that they don't scratch it?
While we are on this topic, my trailer is an EZ Loader tandem that has 9' long carpet covered guides. They refuse to stay in position no matter how tight the bolts are. They are always flopping over.
Anyone have a fix?
Capt Dan
I have been a little paranoid about the guides actually touching the gel coat thinking they might be abrasive enough to scratch it on a long road trip.
Have any of you found that they don't scratch it?
While we are on this topic, my trailer is an EZ Loader tandem that has 9' long carpet covered guides. They refuse to stay in position no matter how tight the bolts are. They are always flopping over.
Anyone have a fix?
Capt Dan
I also keep mine with about 1 inch of space between the bunks and the hull with my high and long bunks.
One problem that sometimes occurs is that the boat, when the trailer is a little too deep down a shallow ramp, and we're coming up out of the water, will catch on top of one of the guide-on bunks with the hull's step-joint that's about 10-12 inches below the gunnel. This throws the boat sideways and off center. Backing down and doing it again, perhaps with a little less trailer submerged, usually remedies the problem.
Next time I re-carpet those bunks, I'm going to round off their top corner so that the two right-angle surfaces can't lock onto each other.
Maybe you can visualize the problem from the photo below:
There's a inward step of the hull just below the big blue stripe bordered at the bottom by the smaller red trim tape. This squarish area catches on the squarish top of the guide on bunk. Next time I re-carpet the bunk, I'll round off the top edge of the 2X4.
Joe. :teeth :thup
One problem that sometimes occurs is that the boat, when the trailer is a little too deep down a shallow ramp, and we're coming up out of the water, will catch on top of one of the guide-on bunks with the hull's step-joint that's about 10-12 inches below the gunnel. This throws the boat sideways and off center. Backing down and doing it again, perhaps with a little less trailer submerged, usually remedies the problem.
Next time I re-carpet those bunks, I'm going to round off their top corner so that the two right-angle surfaces can't lock onto each other.
Maybe you can visualize the problem from the photo below:
There's a inward step of the hull just below the big blue stripe bordered at the bottom by the smaller red trim tape. This squarish area catches on the squarish top of the guide on bunk. Next time I re-carpet the bunk, I'll round off the top edge of the 2X4.
Joe. :teeth :thup
PVC Goal Posts just touching the rubrails are the way to go for us . Keeps the stern centered even on a steep ramp .Never figured out why folks use the long carpeted straight guides on a nicely curved hull. The tall goal post type guides help with spotting/backing the trailer when backing up as well . You can also put pretty lights on them for safety.
JM2C
Marc
JM2C
Marc
With all due respect, the goal posts centers the stern of the boat perfectly when loading as well as the other benefits . I have see a few boats land on top of the carpeted side guides on a steep ramp when pulled from the water. Bow boards center the bow and the goalposts center the stern . Always works for us .
Marc
Marc
Wefings":2se36set said:
I can see how they would work fine if the stern is the widest part of the boat...but the CD 22 is 11" narrower at the stern than the widest part of the boat. (I assume the goalposts are at the rear of the trailer) Maybe I'm missing something.
I used the goalposts on my old 17' fishing boat, and they worked great, but that boat didn't have a belly in the width amidship.
My guides are even with the Wallas exhaust port, about a foot below the rub-rail I’d guess, when centered each has a clearance of about 1.5 inch. The problem was getting centered when pulling out, even with my helper guiding it on. To help center the boat I now place a piece of high density foam between the dock-side guide and boat at the forward guide support; helper just needs to hold the boat against the guide while boats pulled out. The guides have too much flex so it’s essential to place the foam spacer adjacent to the guide support. After pulling out I’m able to remove the foam without much trouble, this process really helps when there’s a strong side wind at the ramp. Guess you could put one on both sides if your single handling the boat.
Capt Dan
I wouldn’t trailer the boat far if one of the guides is contacting the gel coat, better to back up and re-center; done that too many times before coming up with the foam idea.
I also have an EX Loader tandem with 9’ carpet guides; they only flop over if my kid stands on them. My guess is the bolts are machined to prevent over tightening, you could try putting a washer or two on the bolt head side; this should allow you to tighten them down more.
Jay
Capt Dan
I wouldn’t trailer the boat far if one of the guides is contacting the gel coat, better to back up and re-center; done that too many times before coming up with the foam idea.
I also have an EX Loader tandem with 9’ carpet guides; they only flop over if my kid stands on them. My guess is the bolts are machined to prevent over tightening, you could try putting a washer or two on the bolt head side; this should allow you to tighten them down more.
Jay
In the PVC goal post vs the long board design guide on discussion, it may depend on how you load and where, and whether you're alone.
I've had both on various boats, and they both work, but sometimes one is better.
I don't like having the long boards in the way when washing and waxing the boat, but when coming onto the trailer alone, and especially in a cross wind, a channel is a lot easier to stay centered in than set of goal posts. The bow can blow down sideways while you go forward to attach the bow line. BTW, my boards are curved about 3-4" or so, front to rear.
:idea We could turn this into another twins vs. single, discussion, no? :?:
Joe. :lol: :thup
I've had both on various boats, and they both work, but sometimes one is better.
I don't like having the long boards in the way when washing and waxing the boat, but when coming onto the trailer alone, and especially in a cross wind, a channel is a lot easier to stay centered in than set of goal posts. The bow can blow down sideways while you go forward to attach the bow line. BTW, my boards are curved about 3-4" or so, front to rear.
:idea We could turn this into another twins vs. single, discussion, no? :?:
Joe. :lol: :thup
The Long PVC with al pipe inside are only a visual indicator on the 25--they are not strong enough to actually center the boat. Plus the stern is narrower than the amidships section, and thus have to be about 3" out from the hull. When retrieving in strong winds or currents, I have seen the "Goal posts" bent over badly. Also the goal posts (which I have) make the trailer more than 8' 6" wide--if that is an issue. It may be in some places, such as the causway to the Florida Keys where some boaters have been stopped and measured.
I prefer a bunk which is near the water line, and has some taper so that as the stern settles that it centers the 25 between the fenders. On my 25 trailer there was about 1" between the diamond plate of the fenders and the boat--not a lot of room for error! I used the Goal posts as an approximate indicator, but at times had to power the stern over, or re float the boat to get it exactly centered. I would consider bunks about 6" above the bottom of the hull to be ideal on the 25--not half way up the hull.
I prefer a bunk which is near the water line, and has some taper so that as the stern settles that it centers the 25 between the fenders. On my 25 trailer there was about 1" between the diamond plate of the fenders and the boat--not a lot of room for error! I used the Goal posts as an approximate indicator, but at times had to power the stern over, or re float the boat to get it exactly centered. I would consider bunks about 6" above the bottom of the hull to be ideal on the 25--not half way up the hull.
Marc
Guide posts are great in ideal conditions. But I very often are not in ideal conditions. I live the the mountains of Western North Carolina and I trailer my boat a lot. It is over 400 miles to the nearest salt water. Over two hours to the Tennessee River, 1 1/2 hours to the lake.
When boating, I am usually on a time schedule of 3 or 4 days which more often than not will put me in less than ideal conditions. Wind, current, steep ramps, wind, current, cold weather, etc. Oh, did I mention wind and current. You get the idea.
I have gone through two sets of aluminum guide posts. They end up bent so far out that I am afraid I will get a ticket for a wide load. I could get some steel ones and that would solve that problem but then I would still have to deal with the "aluminum" fenders on the trailer. After three years they too have been pushed, bent precariously close to the tires.
Using guide posts, on steep ramps I have set the boat down on a fender, have had the boat blown sideways between the post and over the fender, with the boat pushed hard against the fender it is hard to center the boat between the fenders. Not particularly happy with getting into the cold winter water to center the boat. Changing props in cold water is enough.
I am now ready to try steel bunks. I am hoping that a 2' bunk between the fender and end of the trailer would guide the boat a lot better than a round pole. Knowing me I will probably end up with both.
I love my 25 and it has been my learning boat and I am still learning. But I have to agree with Snal, the only guy I know who can use the side window on a 22 as a door, on this one.
Patrick
Guide posts are great in ideal conditions. But I very often are not in ideal conditions. I live the the mountains of Western North Carolina and I trailer my boat a lot. It is over 400 miles to the nearest salt water. Over two hours to the Tennessee River, 1 1/2 hours to the lake.
When boating, I am usually on a time schedule of 3 or 4 days which more often than not will put me in less than ideal conditions. Wind, current, steep ramps, wind, current, cold weather, etc. Oh, did I mention wind and current. You get the idea.
I have gone through two sets of aluminum guide posts. They end up bent so far out that I am afraid I will get a ticket for a wide load. I could get some steel ones and that would solve that problem but then I would still have to deal with the "aluminum" fenders on the trailer. After three years they too have been pushed, bent precariously close to the tires.
Using guide posts, on steep ramps I have set the boat down on a fender, have had the boat blown sideways between the post and over the fender, with the boat pushed hard against the fender it is hard to center the boat between the fenders. Not particularly happy with getting into the cold winter water to center the boat. Changing props in cold water is enough.
I am now ready to try steel bunks. I am hoping that a 2' bunk between the fender and end of the trailer would guide the boat a lot better than a round pole. Knowing me I will probably end up with both.
I love my 25 and it has been my learning boat and I am still learning. But I have to agree with Snal, the only guy I know who can use the side window on a 22 as a door, on this one.
Patrick
Chris Bulovsky
New member
I use the tall PVC posts on a 22 and if you back your trailer deep enough the floating boat will center on the trailer. I believe that to be the intended purpose of "guide on" posts. They are much cheaper than the bunks and supply a good visual reference for backing up as well. These really help me make a quick pickup. They do interfere with the fenders and flex out of the way when you force the boat in or out. I mounted them with 1" clearance to the boat.
They are worth every penny and work very well for me.
Chris
They are worth every penny and work very well for me.
Chris
We have load guides supplied by Pacific Trailer with long boards that fit fairly high on the hull. We run them tight, narrower on the stern, wider on the bow end but they contact the hull. No gel coat problems and the boat as been trailered from Oregon to New York . Powers on perfectly. So just another way of doing it.
Eric
Eric