Bow Protection

ssobol

Active member
Does anyone know of a good bow protector that fits the bow of the CD 22 (just below the rub rail) to protect against bashes when launching and retrieving the anchor? I think it only needs to be a few inches tall and wide (mostly to protect the bow edge). However, the curvature required to fit is pretty high.

I've seen some online (e.g. ScuffBuster) but I don't know if that one would bend around the front of the CD 22 very well. The pictures shown show bow angles that are much flatter than a C-Dory.

Thanks.
 
The most common "solution" is to use two pieces of SS to cover the place where the anchor may hit. These are larger than the small piece of the "stuff buster" which is more to deal with the bow eye, and any issues with a stop on the trailer windlass stand.

Another solution, is to get a better or longer anchor pulpit/arm.
 
I picked up a rubber step pad from Homey D with a self adhesive backing, cut it in strips and gave my bow the Nordic tug look. It's been protecting the bow and looking good for about 10 years now. Like Bob said, a nice piece of polished stainless epoxied on there would look real good too, cut into a nice artsy shape and bent to fit...............I think I'll be removing my rubbers and go to hunting down some stainless, I have some designs floating around already
 
Lacking a pre-made part, I would like to find some stainless sheet of a thickness that would allow forming and cutting using typical home tools.

After cutting and fitting a piece, it could be attached with 5200 or the like. The thickness doesn't have to be that much, just enough to prevent gouges in the gelcoat.
 
B~C":2kx2qk4b said:
I picked up a rubber step pad from Homey D with a self adhesive backing, cut it in strips and gave my bow the Nordic tug look. It's been protecting the bow and looking good for about 10 years now. Like Bob said, a nice piece of polished stainless epoxied on there would look real good too, cut into a nice artsy shape and bent to fit...............I think I'll be removing my rubbers and go to hunting down some stainless, I have some designs floating around already

Ken,

Going from Nordic tug to Nordhaven :?: :mrgreen:

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
B~C":fyc8dykd said:
I picked up a rubber step pad from Homey D with a self adhesive backing, cut it in strips and gave my bow the Nordic tug look.

I noticed your bow protector in the albums some time ago. I saved a copy as I think it looks great! So I can get it at Home Depot and it will last years? Sweet :D

McMaster Carr has many types of stainless "sheets" that get pretty thin (formable) (you have to scroll through the types as some only go down to 1/8" but others get down to .0xx". They also have adhesive stainless "foil," but at .002" I think it would be much too thin and delicate.

For comparison, the Keel Shield "Bow Shield" self-adhesive stainless (which unfortunately is only shaped to go around a bow eye) is 22 gauge, which converts to .0313"
 
Harvey, ya,the Nordhaven is a much classier boat.

Sunbeam, thanks, glad you like it. I stuck that on years ago with the thought that it wouldn't last long and I would just replace it when the time came but it just keeps on sticking.

How much of a pain would it be to polish stainless? I can get my hands on some plate & a plasma torch and a press brake
 
Although SS is fairly easy to polish, I feel that a mill or #4 brushed finish would be far better. Polished would show the scratches and dings far more. You only need to protect the gel coat. I suspect that 24 gauge would be fine. a 1' x 2' piece for $21 plus shipping would be enough. Maybe even 1 sq foot. Probably finish the edges on a combo disc/ belt sander.
 
B~C":65oskgfu said:
I can get my hands on some plate & a plasma torch and a press brake

I bet if you wanted a little "side business" you could sell a bunch of these once you had a good pattern. I know I'd be interested! (Although I still do really like the tuggy look of your "HD" version.) 316 steel would be a nice touch for corrosion resistance and it's a bit "softer" (although maybe not a noticeable difference when working it, I have no idea about that).

Even though I have a fairly long bow roller, it's still possible for the anchor to touch the gelcoat if the shank "tilts" up a fair bit in relation to the roller while lowering or raising anchor. Doesn't happen often, but I'd prefer to have some protection there.
 
Sunbeam":2slngvw8 said:
B~C":2slngvw8 said:
I can get my hands on some plate & a plasma torch and a press brake

I bet if you wanted a little "side business" you could sell a bunch of these once you had a good pattern. I know I'd be interested! (Although I still do really like the tuggy look of your "HD" version.) 316 steel would be a nice touch for corrosion resistance and it's a bit "softer" (although maybe not a noticeable difference when working it, I have no idea about that).

Obviously, I'd take one too.
 
For those who want to see Ken's bow protector from H-D:

windlass.jpg
"(B~C) powerwinch450, anchor by Beefy and extra roller mounted on a piece of that white cutting board material."
 
Ken,

Put me down for one also.....make it 316 stainless, with a brushed, satin or dimpled finish, maybe even a diamond plate.

Looks like a great oportunity :wink:

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

JC_Lately_SleepyC_Flat_Blue_070.thumb.jpg
 
Harvey, if was a retired millwright I'd go to cranking um out. I'll see if I can get one made this winter and go from there.

My pictures aren't to good, the HD NT option looks a lot better in real life.
 
Back
Top