Bilge pump issue

L

Lil Rascal

New member
I have a 2005 22 cruiser. It came with 2 bilge pumps. One is forward under a hatch in the doorway and another is between the fuel tanks. The one between the fuel tanks also has a separate Rule float switch. Both pumps work with a switch in the cockpit that has Manual, Off and Auto settings. When I use manual or auto the aft bilge pump with the float switch does nothing. The forward bilge pump works normal. Also the manual knob on the aft float switch does nothing either. I am not that technical and would like to know if anyone can diagnose my issue? I sense that no power is getting to the aft float switch to activate the aft bilge pump. What are some things I should check.
Thanks,
Scott on Lil' Rascal
 
Are you saying that both pumps work off from the same switch?

Normally each bilge pump will be fused close to the battery, so look there first for a blown fuse. You should check continuity to the aft pump for a break or corrosion to the aft pump. If you have power at the rear pump but nothing happens, the pump is bad.

A continuity tester is rather inexpensive at Lowes or you could take a car taillight socket disconnect pump ,connect light in place of pump and if it will turn on pump needs to be replaced.
 
Scott...just a reminder ...you won't get any "action" from the aft "float" bilge pump unless there is water in that area that causes the float to rise up and turn the pump on. (Unless you manually lift the float).
(Just a thought in case you are expecting the bilge to come on when there is not enough water to activate it).

(I am surprised that your aft pump works off of the helm switch, because the float pump is normally wired directly to the battery. The switch at my helm only operates the rear cabin pump (which is not a float pump).

All the above being said, I'm guessing there is nothing wrong with your aft float pump.
 
Dave,
The float switch and pump were covered with water. Also the little manual knob on the float switch was not working when I turned it. That always worked wether there was water or not.
Scott
 
It is a bit unusual for both pumps to be on same switch. If switch is bad you will have no bilging ability.

Buy a new switch, separate pumps install a new wire to new switch which includes a properly sized fuse and run it to either present aft pump or better yet a new Rule pump with at least 1100 gallon capacity. For safety, I want the pumps independent of each other.

My 2 cents worth.
 
G Gallagher":yo5w6sg4 said:
... better yet a new Rule pump with at least 1100 gallon capacity.
Click to expand...

On the other hand, I purposely chose "smaller" pumps. That's because I wanted one that uses 3/4" hose so I would have less "droozle back" from the line (I don't like to use check valves). I count on my pumps to remove nuisance water and don't expect them to stanch a "big" leak or problem, so for me the smaller pumps with their smaller hose work well. I do have two independent pumps, both wired to get power all the time (even when battery switch off) and both with (separate) manual switches.

(Mine happen to be 500 gph and 1,000 gph.)
 
Scott,

My boat came wired the same way yours is. The rocker switch at the helm is 3 position, off, auto or on. Both pumps come on with the switch in the "ON" position. In "AUTO", either one can come on if they get enough water to trigger the internal switch. In "OFF" neither one will run. Since I don't leave my boat unattended on a mooring ball, or for extended periods at a marina, it is OK with me to not have them wired directly to the battery. My boat stays on a trailer and in covered storage when not in use. When I am onboard, if the occasion calls, the switch will be in "AUTO" --(raining, rain overnight, or running in rough seas). Most of the time it is "OFF", and I occasionally, will turn it to "ON" to drain the cockpit manually.

Your aft pump sounds like there may be a problem with the pump, especially if you have blocked the switch up and the pump still does not come on. I would think it is more likely the pump, but the switch could be bad also. Time to check and see it you have power to the pump with the switch in the up position. If not, time to suspect the switch. Take it out of the circuit and power the pump directly from the forward helm switch. If it responds to the power then you know it is the switch. If you cannot get the pump to run then, it looks like the pump is bad. Put a small light on the wires from the switch. If the light goes on and off, the switch is working, AND you still need to replace the pump.

When I replace my pumps I liked the idea of getting as much water off the boat as possible, as quick as possible so I went with a 1500gph aft and a 1100gph under the door step.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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The 2005-06 (and other) boats came with a single bilge pump, that was inside the cabin, with a small sump, and a hole from the cockpit thru the aft cabin bulkhead to allow water to flow into this pump, when the boat was in the water--this being the low place in the boat when afloat. The boats came with the only bilge pump switch at the helm station.

The second bilge pump aft is an option--often put in by the owner or some shop--so they may be wired any which way.

It sounds in your boat that the switch on the console was used for something else, or deactivated, but double check. Normally I would (and did in my 2006 22) put a second switch in the cockpit for that aft bilge pump, so I could use it when under way. I had no float switch on that pump.

As Harvey noted most pumps which come with a float switch have 3 positions--that is manual, auto (float) and off. There should be a "manual" switch or position for that aft pump (if there isn't then one needs to be put in. The most common cause of bilge pump failure are the crimp connections to the wire going to the pump. There are 2 or 3 butt connectors (end to end)--one on the ground, one on the manual, and one to the float--and then the float to the plus going to the pump. If the fuse is OK--then start looking at the crimp fittings. There are two ways to seal them--one is to use put in new crimps, then liquid tape into each end of the crimped fittings (unless there is adhesive shrink tubing already on the connector--and this is the best). Then adhesive heat shrink needs to be put over the entire butt connector, plus the wires coming in and going out of the connector--heat and seal. Some folks will put a silicone grease in the butt connector before they make the crimp to help prevent corrosion.

So: check for fuse, account for all fuses, label each fuse with what it controls. If fuses are OK, check all of the wires, looking for loose connection or corrosion. Use a volt meter to check to be sure you are getting close to 12. 6 volts or more. Finally check the butt connectors all along the line, If there is any question take the one nearest the pump loose, (cut it out) and run jumper wire from the battery to the wires to the pump--that will immediately show you if the pump is good or not. Finally replace butt connectors, properly heat shrink protected.
 
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