Best Trailer Bunks or rollers? Single or twin axle?

S

SVal

New member
I am wondering, which trailer is the best for my C-Dory 22' angler. I purchased it on bunks but I was also given the complete set of EZ-loader rollers. How low my boat sits on the trailer is an important item as I go to one launch that has low water. Also I had another boat that was easy to push off at this launch because of the rollers. Is there any advantage to either? Does one type secure or provide more support to the boat on a long haul like North West Territories? lots of gravel and/or poor roads. I have been there many times and know that nothing replaces caution. Any good information could be helpful.
Steve
 
SVal":1r9fce5h said:
I am wondering, which trailer is the best for my C-Dory 22' angler. I purchased it on bunks but I was also given the complete set of EZ-loader rollers. How low my boat sits on the trailer is an important item as I go to one launch that has low water. Also I had another boat that was easy to push off at this launch because of the rollers. Is there any advantage to either?

The roller trailer will be much easier to use at a low water launch site/ramp.

Does one type secure or provide more support to the boat on a long haul like North West Territories?

The bunk type ramp usually has more surface area contacting the hull than the roller trailer. (However, the bunk trailer may have 4 or only 2 bunks, depending on the trailer.) Different roller trailers may have different numbers of rollers. My EZ Loader has 32. A 4500 lb boat divided by 32 rollers means each roller supports 140 pounds on the average, but the surface area of each roller is fairly small. Still, the 32 rollers are well distributed all over the boat hull. But as a last thought, those rollers could really grind in that NWT road dirt and grime pretty bad!

So its a trade-off: Which is more important, long-haul support of the boat, or ease of launching? How many times do you need to launch in low-water situations? Could it be done on a bunk trailer? How hard are you gong to be on the boat trailering it?

Another option would be to use the bunks, but replace the back half of the bunk carpeting with slick plastic polymer pads to reduce the friction of sliding off and onto the trailer.* This might be the best solution if it will work for you! Try This.

lots of gravel and/or poor roads. I have been there many times and know that nothing replaces caution. Any good information could be helpful.
Steve
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*Most manufacturers of the polymer skids recommend you only use them on the back half of the bunks, as putting them on the whole bunk surface is likely to cause the boat to slide around too easily, creating a danger when trailering of losing the boat off onto the road(!) :lol:


Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Just my opinion here. Some things would depend on how far you intend to trailer. Short runs to a local ramp anything will usually work. For longer hauls I think tandem axle trailers will transmit less of a interaction back to the tow vehicle from bumps in the road. Try to shoot for radial tires and get the trailer wheels balanced. Disc brakes on all axles would be a plus. In most cases no need to carry a jack with a tandem as you can fashion a wood block to pull up on with the wheel from the other axle to change a tire or service wheel bearings etc. We have had both roller and bunk trailers. We used to occasionally break one of the forward rocker type roller arms that supported the rollers. So depending how long you keep your trailer you will either be replacing bunk carpeting or rollers. A roller trailer will be easier to load if you have to crank the boat up and on to the trailer in shallow water situations. On our current boat we added bunk slides on the forward half of the trailer's bunks. The idea being that the rear half of the boat might be floating or at least the bunks would be wet and would have less weight on them until the boat is loaded. We have always had trailers setup to be able to power load the boat by just driving the boat on to the trailer and once it reaches the bow stop my wife just hooks up the chain and winches the strap tight. Once we get everything back up on level ground we hit the brakes to slide the boat the rest of the way back up on to the bow stop as a small gap between the boat and the bow stop usually develops once the boat is pulled out of the water and up off the ramp back on level ground. I think you can get the boat to ride lower on a bunk trailer than you can with a roller trailer so the lower the center of gravity while on the road at least would usually provide for better on the road handling. Boats slide off roller trailers pretty nice so for shallow launching the roller trailer might be your better choice. JMHO.
D.D.
 
Bunks can be setup to ride lower if that is important to you. (it is to me)
Bunks provide more even support of the load (less point loading) but roller configurations can be good/bad based on placement and # of rollers used.
Rollers do make for easier load release and retrieval when you are using a ramp/rig combo that does not allow you to float the boat off/on the trailer.
Bunks have far less moving parts to look after.
Bunks can be used as walking surfaces when managing a difficult launch or retrieval while rollers are no good for that.

I am a bunk person but the numerous good ramps in our region allow me exercise that preference with minimal inconvenience.

If I had a simple/light day boat that I wanted to launch anywhere and everywhere, it would be on rollers because I have seen plenty of "boat launches" that are little more than a gap in the shoreline vegetation.

We currently use a single axle trailer to minimize our towing weight and I do feel that a well maintained single axle trailer is adequate for a (within weight rating) C-dory towed a minimal to moderate amount. If you tow far and often or prefer the handling of a tandem, then I would recommend that. If you are a person who generally waits for things to make noise or break before you pay them any attention, tandem is best.

Maintenance is more important when operating with less redundancy. Our single axle King trailer will get fresh grease and bearings and tires more often than it likely deserves.

Greg
 
Aurelia":3dx2pgzy said:
Bunks can be setup to ride lower if that is important to you. (it is to me)
<snip>
Greg
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I got a nice ding in my starboard chine from the bunks being too low. It came down on one of the axle U bolts. I don't remember any huge potholes or bumps, but what ever it was was sufficient. That was at the manufacture's recommended height for a CDory.

I am going to raise it one notch to the highest setting to get another two or so inches.
 
Although some folks put slicks on the back half of the trailer, there is a very good case for putting slicks on the front half of bunks, since that is the part which hangs up when launching or retrieving, and the back half is already floating. The front half is common on the Tom Cat.

In any case, a ratchet strap over the cockpit, or transom tow downs are essential on any type of trailer.
 
My vote is bunks on tandem axle. But I also tow a lot, and far distances often. I've only had problems getting the boat off the trailer twice. Once a few years ago in Dubuque when the Mississippi River was running a little low, and again last summer at Bullfrog Bay on Lake Powell. In both situations, some muscle pushing the bow off, and full reverse power worked. In retrospect, I could have pulled the trailer out from under the boat at Bullfrog if I just tied a line off the stern to the dock... I suppose rollers would have never allowed the problem, but I think the bunks also load and center easier. Colby
 
I have also towed thousands of miles hauling a 22 on a bunk trailer. Ours was a single axle, and having pulled tandem axle travel, and horse trailers, the single axle is my choice. If you do have a tandem, be sure to have the ramp with you in case of a flat. I found that bottle jacks don't take up that much room and you will likely have to take wrenches with you anyway. It likely will come to personal preference on single or tandem. More important is to be sure you get a trailer with sufficient carry capacity, and as previously suggested use a tie down strap at the stern, and a safety chain in the bow eye.
Jack
 
Thanks everyone, I have put Slide Guides on the trailer already. This was a great help. I considered contacting EZ loader and checking out converting my trailer to a double axle. I know from experience that rough roads and two axles is a good planning. Lots of good thoughts and I will check my distances from my boat to anything on the trailer that might hit on a rough road. Good info.
I have lots of miles in Northern BC, Canada with a smaller lighter boat and have learned if it can break it will, and never be shy about asking for good advice. I tow with a dually RAM 3500 4X4 and keep the majority of the weight in my truck. This trip I will probably take my camper so I like the sound of more axles. Thanks
 
P.S. I am the type who overbuilds everything, fixes it before it breaks and maintains on a strict schedule. I hate any noises, squeaks or rattles.
SV
 
Just a couple of additional thoughts.

Both types of trailers, bunk and rollers, have their advantages and limitations. Your intended use may well determine which one is best for you.

We feel more comfortable with what we know and are familiar with.

The roller trailer particularly seems difficult to use to those not familiar with it, but to those with considerable experience using them, roller trailers can be used very advantageously, especially on lighter and medium weight boats and in difficult launching situations. Heavy and very heavy boats would still seem more at home on bunk trailers.

I personally prefer tandem trailers, and especially so for longer towing jobs and high speed freeways. Blowouts are much less catastrophic, and you can usually limp along at 35 mph or so to the next exit and maybe even to a tire service center.

With the single axle, a blow out means you stop right now, and, hopefully, still under control!

Lots more +es and -es, yada, yada, yada, etc.!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I'm like you SV. I'd rather service and maintain my trailer at home, as opposed to breaking down out in the middle of somewhere... Colby
 
I have towed my C-22 thousands of mile on aE_Z loader tandem and I have been
very pleased with it (except for the surge drum brakes ,I'm putting on discs).

A word of caution !!! The first time I launched Carpy I just about drooped it on the ramp, and it was a shallow ramp. The rollers are just as easy off as it is on.
Don't release your winch rope until the boat is over the water!

Carpy
 
I'm in the bunks and tandem camp too. Mostly due to the increased support for the boat through it's entire length. And tandem for the specific safety afforded in a blowout situation. The tandem also has more swing control, but that plus is negated in the backing and turning scrub and effort applied when not going in a straight line.

I did see a roller trailer this weekend that caught my eye. It had a 26 foot boat on it and it was a "Load Rite" 8 pairs of rollers every 4 feet on both sides, so there were rollers something less than every 12 inches for 3/4 of the length of the boat. I would have to say it probably provided almost as much support as a bunk trailer and would have been easier on and off in some situations.

My bunks, for where I launch and retrieve, are easy. Just back in until the water is a couple of inches over the top of the trailer wheel fenders and it's "float on and float off". 8)

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

SSC_CPR_and_Patient_255.thumb.jpg
 
The fact that your boat came with a trailer set up with bunks and the rollers in a box should give you some idea of what is best.
Tandem axles for ramp launching and highway travel.
Single axle when towing on a sandy beach and beach launching. Tandems dig in when turning on the sand.
 
We have towed our CD22 approximately 70,000 miles with the first 40,000 on a single axle, roller trailer & the last 30,000 on a duel axel, bunk trailer. I think the previous posts on this thread have well described the positives & negatives of each, so I will only add when I purchased my new double axle trailer knowing in the offseason the boat would be resting on it & when used, it would be on long trips over possibly very rough roads & I didn't want to be concerned about weight added to the boat, so I wanted a weight rating well above the weight of the CD22 & all I planned to carry in it along with bunks, torsion bar suspension, quality disc brakes on both axles, electric over hydraulic brakes & radial tires rated each at a minimum of 1760 lbs. I'm totally satisfied with this set up & love the peace of mind it provides on the long trips we do, where services are far between.

Jay
 
Jack in Alaska":1tfxp218 said:
Tandems dig in when turning on the sand.
Click to expand...

I have only launched a handful of times on a sand(beach type) launch and that was always with a single axle but I must say this is something I never even considered.

Barely a day goes by that I don't learn something from this site. Thanks Jack and everyone for sharing your experience and knowledge here.

Regards, Rob
 
Not sure having bunks end short of the stern is a good idea. I've been told that's where you need the most support, especially with the engine hanging off the back. Doing some research on the trailer under a Searay 268 Sundancer, which is a much heavier boat, I was told that if the bunks or rollers don't go under the stern, it would take a sag/set in that area. Colby
 
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