Battery Age at Replacement
- Thread starter MOOSE
- Start date
Aal-
I use them until they start to fail: when the they won't hold a charge or develop full voltage.
But then, I'm not taking them out in the ocean, or on long cross-country cruises, etc., and I have four Group 27's, so if one fails it doesn't really matter much.
BTW: Have you started to have Spring Or Summer back there on the Great Lakes Region, yet? Was 100 degrees here one day earlier this week!
Joe. :teeth :thup
I use them until they start to fail: when the they won't hold a charge or develop full voltage.
But then, I'm not taking them out in the ocean, or on long cross-country cruises, etc., and I have four Group 27's, so if one fails it doesn't really matter much.
BTW: Have you started to have Spring Or Summer back there on the Great Lakes Region, yet? Was 100 degrees here one day earlier this week!
Joe. :teeth :thup
journey on
New member
I've been wondering about that too, lately.
Journey On has two different types of batteries, albeit both lead-acid wet cells. They both remain charged when on the trailer at home via a Xantrex 3 stage battery charger, and when we're cruising, either by the engine, shorepower or a Honda 1000. The Honda alternator will charge those batteries up to ~15Vdc, which takes a lot of water.
The #2 battery is an Interstate deep cycle came with the boat and is now 4 years old. It's served as a back up battery and is the one I use on the RV trailer. Never uses water and seems as good as new. I test it periodically by using it as to start the engine.
Incidentally, by prior test, those Interstate deep cycle are good for 300 cycles, which is less than a year if you're living on board. They make "real" deep cycle batteries, as below, that will take many more discharge cycles.
The #1 battery is a pair of 6 VDC golph cart batteries: American Battery, mid-grade. I got these before the boat, so they're over 4 years old, and still going strong. Use a lot of water. These are the main batteries when we're cruising, starting the engines, running the refridg, powering the inverter, etc, etc. Seem good and at the price for gloph cart batteries, I'm not going to replace them until they show some signs of wear. Charged as above.
So in summary, battery life is >4 years, if kept charged.
Any other experiences?
Boris
Journey On has two different types of batteries, albeit both lead-acid wet cells. They both remain charged when on the trailer at home via a Xantrex 3 stage battery charger, and when we're cruising, either by the engine, shorepower or a Honda 1000. The Honda alternator will charge those batteries up to ~15Vdc, which takes a lot of water.
The #2 battery is an Interstate deep cycle came with the boat and is now 4 years old. It's served as a back up battery and is the one I use on the RV trailer. Never uses water and seems as good as new. I test it periodically by using it as to start the engine.
Incidentally, by prior test, those Interstate deep cycle are good for 300 cycles, which is less than a year if you're living on board. They make "real" deep cycle batteries, as below, that will take many more discharge cycles.
The #1 battery is a pair of 6 VDC golph cart batteries: American Battery, mid-grade. I got these before the boat, so they're over 4 years old, and still going strong. Use a lot of water. These are the main batteries when we're cruising, starting the engines, running the refridg, powering the inverter, etc, etc. Seem good and at the price for gloph cart batteries, I'm not going to replace them until they show some signs of wear. Charged as above.
So in summary, battery life is >4 years, if kept charged.
Any other experiences?
Boris
My batteries stay almost continuously charged since I don't anchor out and have an on board charger and shore power. Hence, when I'm at a marina, they're getting charged and when I'm at home they're getting charged. Most of the time I'm on the water, I'm trolling and they're getting charged. I had two batteries for 5 years and never had any indication that they were going bad but I replaced them anyway. I think 4-5 years is about the correct replacement life cycle IF you keep them fully charged. I doubt mine got below 50% charge more than a few times during the entire 4-5 years. If however, you spend a lot of time at anchor or on the trailer with no charger attached, a 3 year cycle might be better. 2 years seems overly conservative to me if you're buying high quality batteries.
I have two Interstate SRM-24's; one to each engine with electronic and accessories (radar, fishfinder, VHF, Wallas, lights, low draw fans, and occasionally a computer) split between them (two electrical circuits not interconnected unless I chose to with battery jumper cables). The boat is in the water from June until mid October being charged only by the engines. Off season they are in my basement getting a 2 amp charge once a month and a desulfination twice a year. My first set were replaced after 6 seasons (400 engine hours) but still reside (7 years old) in my basement being charged monthly; I replaced them because the thought of dead batteries in the middle of Lake Superior makes me anxious.
Moose, have you got your trip to the island planned for this summer?? Let me know when as we're on and off frequently. Right now we'll be gone the last two weeks of July doing the eastern portion of Superior's south shore. Likely I'll also be in Houghton first week of August with guests; summer's too short up here!!
Jay
Moose, have you got your trip to the island planned for this summer?? Let me know when as we're on and off frequently. Right now we'll be gone the last two weeks of July doing the eastern portion of Superior's south shore. Likely I'll also be in Houghton first week of August with guests; summer's too short up here!!
Jay
I am thinking about changing out 2 of my 4 batteries, that are just not holding as high voltages as the other 2, and the draw down on turning over the ob is recycling the start on my electronics. So I've been researching this a bit. For what it is worth, summerizing mostly second hand opinions:
A lot of boaters seem to love the Sears Platinum marine (glass mat) sealed 31 and call it an absolute beast of a battery, but they are fairly expensive: +/- $250. This battery is made by the same maker as Odessey batteries.
Many seem to say good things about the Wal Mart Marine flooded lead acid batteries made by Johnson Controls as a well performing $80 alternative.
Many, many complained about the performance and warranty issues of their Optima Blue tops (which are the only ones I have that are still going strong after about 4 years.) Though I have good experience with them, I read enough about recent issues that convinced me not to choose them again.
I'm sure there are lots of other good options.
Sea Wolf, at what full charge voltage do you start getting concerned? Two of mine are 12.8 ish
Chris
A lot of boaters seem to love the Sears Platinum marine (glass mat) sealed 31 and call it an absolute beast of a battery, but they are fairly expensive: +/- $250. This battery is made by the same maker as Odessey batteries.
Many seem to say good things about the Wal Mart Marine flooded lead acid batteries made by Johnson Controls as a well performing $80 alternative.
Many, many complained about the performance and warranty issues of their Optima Blue tops (which are the only ones I have that are still going strong after about 4 years.) Though I have good experience with them, I read enough about recent issues that convinced me not to choose them again.
I'm sure there are lots of other good options.
Sea Wolf, at what full charge voltage do you start getting concerned? Two of mine are 12.8 ish
Chris
Journey On,
A quick question? Are you adding water to your batteries after charging with the your charger? If you are charging lead acid batteries at 15 Volts you are killing them every time you hook up the charger The ideal charging voltage for Lead Acid is 14.5 volts to 14.6 volts. If you are adding water you are using to much current and are evaporating the electrolite from the water which causes the reaction between the anode and cathode. A good website to check out for lead acid battery charging information is www.chargetek.com
Ed
A quick question? Are you adding water to your batteries after charging with the your charger? If you are charging lead acid batteries at 15 Volts you are killing them every time you hook up the charger The ideal charging voltage for Lead Acid is 14.5 volts to 14.6 volts. If you are adding water you are using to much current and are evaporating the electrolite from the water which causes the reaction between the anode and cathode. A good website to check out for lead acid battery charging information is www.chargetek.com
Ed
The abilities....or lack there of on batteries I have owned have been impacted much more by my neglect, or forgetfullness.... than the actuall build/capabilities of the batteries. Things like...Oh Sir...that is a neat looking boat"...as we pull into the marinas.... and me of course agreeing with them...and talking a bit....and a bit more...and a bit more (OK..we love our boats)....and,...forgetting to hit that little switch that kills the little pain in the back side draws on our batteries... like GPS systems, ZF Mathers electronic controls.... oh...and that radio and amplifier due to my hearing not being what it use to be.... 
So...this year .... I am again runnning a test. I have succesfully flat dead discharged my batteries... Hummm... 27 year career with checklist for operational start up and shut downs.....but NO...not on my boat. :sad So, while Terry (LAST DANCE) was in town a couple weeks ago.... we took the two 75Amp "crank" batteries back to Interstate to let them stay on "their charging" system for a good 24 hours cycle...and they stood up good to load testing....and again...just Wednesday night after my brother Mike, Brigner (C-Pearl) and a couple of other folks enjoyed a great day on the waters.... I sea trialed the system...stayed over night with the Wallas 30D heater running, as well as the sound system... You know...sort of like we do...use our boats. All was well in the morning... so... Who knows... A few more "local" test... and I will know if they are going to hold.
Life is good... Go use your boat with some friends.
Byrdman
So...this year .... I am again runnning a test. I have succesfully flat dead discharged my batteries... Hummm... 27 year career with checklist for operational start up and shut downs.....but NO...not on my boat. :sad So, while Terry (LAST DANCE) was in town a couple weeks ago.... we took the two 75Amp "crank" batteries back to Interstate to let them stay on "their charging" system for a good 24 hours cycle...and they stood up good to load testing....and again...just Wednesday night after my brother Mike, Brigner (C-Pearl) and a couple of other folks enjoyed a great day on the waters.... I sea trialed the system...stayed over night with the Wallas 30D heater running, as well as the sound system... You know...sort of like we do...use our boats. All was well in the morning... so... Who knows... A few more "local" test... and I will know if they are going to hold.
Life is good... Go use your boat with some friends.
Byrdman
New Moon’s starting bank is a pair of East Penn Manufacturing's Deka Intimidator 785 CCA group 34 AGM starting batteries, wired in parallel for a total of 1570 CCA and 83lb. This is a robust starting bank, for our big diesel engine. They cost $125 each at an industiral battery supplier.
Our house bank is two Deka Sea Mate 105 AH group 31 AGM "dual purpose" batteries, wired in parallel for a total of 210 AH and 138lb. These are the same AGM's available from West Marine under the name Sea Volt, but available for 2/3 the WM price from industrial battery suppliers.
At this point our house bank has eight summers and more than 600 days of cruising under its belt, and it’s still going strong. We have just replaced our starting bank (was a pair of Optima blue-top starting-types) after eight summers. Pretty decent performance for both banks.
Our house bank is two Deka Sea Mate 105 AH group 31 AGM "dual purpose" batteries, wired in parallel for a total of 210 AH and 138lb. These are the same AGM's available from West Marine under the name Sea Volt, but available for 2/3 the WM price from industrial battery suppliers.
At this point our house bank has eight summers and more than 600 days of cruising under its belt, and it’s still going strong. We have just replaced our starting bank (was a pair of Optima blue-top starting-types) after eight summers. Pretty decent performance for both banks.
So.....the jury is still out. I'd still like to hear more responses.
Joe, lots of birds are back, but the lake she still be froze. It's been an old time winter that doesn't want to let loose. But we hope for better things.....and soon!
And Jay, I don't know as we'll make the big leap this year, but we plan on being out in our usuual haunts in mid- late-June and again in early August. I thought about seeing if I could raise you on the VHF last summer, but hate to tie up the airwaves just for social purposes. Now, if you could persuade C-Batical and Not For Hire to make the jump from Houghton for a visit, I might reconcider.
Al
Joe, lots of birds are back, but the lake she still be froze. It's been an old time winter that doesn't want to let loose. But we hope for better things.....and soon!
And Jay, I don't know as we'll make the big leap this year, but we plan on being out in our usuual haunts in mid- late-June and again in early August. I thought about seeing if I could raise you on the VHF last summer, but hate to tie up the airwaves just for social purposes. Now, if you could persuade C-Batical and Not For Hire to make the jump from Houghton for a visit, I might reconcider.
Al
Chris Murphy wrote-
"Sea Wolf, at what full charge voltage do you start getting concerned? Two of mine are 12.8 ish ."
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I really don't worry until they drop down below 12.4 volts after they've had a chance to set for a hour or two to let the surface charge go away and stabilize. Then again, I've got a lot of extra capacity, so there's quite a margin to be safe with.
Joe.
"Sea Wolf, at what full charge voltage do you start getting concerned? Two of mine are 12.8 ish ."
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I really don't worry until they drop down below 12.4 volts after they've had a chance to set for a hour or two to let the surface charge go away and stabilize. Then again, I've got a lot of extra capacity, so there's quite a margin to be safe with.
Joe.
MOOSE,
I just replaced to NAPA GROUP 24'S that have been on our 22 since it was new. When we bought the boat and brought it home the batteries were dead. I charged them with the on board charger, a Qwest 10/5/5 for the longest time and they finally came up to full charge. Since then (Nov 06), I have had one battery completely (9.6V) discharged [ran all night with a CPAP on] and had them go down a couple of times from forgetting the master switch. The Manf Date on the batteries was 10-04, making them 5 years old. replaced them because one of them was not charging up as full as the other one. (12.2 vs 12.6-7) and since I understand that both batteries should be simular for better battery health (and my piece of mind) I replaced both this spring with new Interstate Dual Purpose G27's, (one in each lazarette).
I notice you are running twin 40's (ours are Yamaha instead of Honda) and was curious if yours are set up for 2 start bats, or one start for both OB's?
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I just replaced to NAPA GROUP 24'S that have been on our 22 since it was new. When we bought the boat and brought it home the batteries were dead. I charged them with the on board charger, a Qwest 10/5/5 for the longest time and they finally came up to full charge. Since then (Nov 06), I have had one battery completely (9.6V) discharged [ran all night with a CPAP on] and had them go down a couple of times from forgetting the master switch. The Manf Date on the batteries was 10-04, making them 5 years old. replaced them because one of them was not charging up as full as the other one. (12.2 vs 12.6-7) and since I understand that both batteries should be simular for better battery health (and my piece of mind) I replaced both this spring with new Interstate Dual Purpose G27's, (one in each lazarette).
I notice you are running twin 40's (ours are Yamaha instead of Honda) and was curious if yours are set up for 2 start bats, or one start for both OB's?
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey,
My current batteries are two years old and I keep them on a Xantrex charger summer and winter, although on occasion they have been completely discharged for one reason or another.
Each outboard has its own starting battery and a battery switch selects which one doubles for house power use. Ideally, I try to rotate the house power source daily.
Al
My current batteries are two years old and I keep them on a Xantrex charger summer and winter, although on occasion they have been completely discharged for one reason or another.
Each outboard has its own starting battery and a battery switch selects which one doubles for house power use. Ideally, I try to rotate the house power source daily.
Al
Just to show you that you can do different things and still get away with it as long as they're reasonably logical, I'l tell you how differently I treat my different boats.
The C-Dory 22 has four group 27's, two paired in the stern and two paired up under the front dinette seat. Each pair has an "Off-1-both-2" switch. I use and charge them all together in parallel with the Yamaha 90, the electric engine mounted trolling motor, and, when necessary, my 40 amp on board automatic charger, and my Honda 1000i generator. When the boat is not being used, the switches are all in the off position, and the batteries isolated. Three batteries are a year or two old, the forth a five year veteran, but still going strong. No battery problems.
On my Sea Ray 265, there are three 27's. One for the port V-6, one for the starboard, and another one for the house, although the first two batteries can feed the house system as well. They're all left switched on all the time at the marina and at home. When I'm absent, a 5 Watt solar charger charges them all in parallel. When I'm in the slip with the boat, the shore power and charger get plugged in and take over. At home, we plug the shore power into the domestic power, and keep the system alive. All three batteries are less than a year old and identical. Seem to do fine as long as we leave nothing turned on with the circuit breakers or switches. (!)
The pontoon boat gets charged by the motor only when it's at the lake and in the slip, and does well. At home in the RV barn, we charge it with a small 6/2 amp charger once a month or so. No battery problems. Boat is on the original battery and four, going on five years old.
The jet ski gets charged in the garage every few months in the off season. The little battery seems to do OK. You have to be very careful not to overcharge the little devil; it looks more like a motorcycle battery than one for a car. A 2 amp rate for 1-1/2 hrs seems to top it off.
My point is that there's no one formula for battery treatment, other than to keep them charged, not over charge or overly drain them, and make sure they get water when they need it, and are not otherwise abused.
Joe. :teeth :thup
The C-Dory 22 has four group 27's, two paired in the stern and two paired up under the front dinette seat. Each pair has an "Off-1-both-2" switch. I use and charge them all together in parallel with the Yamaha 90, the electric engine mounted trolling motor, and, when necessary, my 40 amp on board automatic charger, and my Honda 1000i generator. When the boat is not being used, the switches are all in the off position, and the batteries isolated. Three batteries are a year or two old, the forth a five year veteran, but still going strong. No battery problems.
On my Sea Ray 265, there are three 27's. One for the port V-6, one for the starboard, and another one for the house, although the first two batteries can feed the house system as well. They're all left switched on all the time at the marina and at home. When I'm absent, a 5 Watt solar charger charges them all in parallel. When I'm in the slip with the boat, the shore power and charger get plugged in and take over. At home, we plug the shore power into the domestic power, and keep the system alive. All three batteries are less than a year old and identical. Seem to do fine as long as we leave nothing turned on with the circuit breakers or switches. (!)
The pontoon boat gets charged by the motor only when it's at the lake and in the slip, and does well. At home in the RV barn, we charge it with a small 6/2 amp charger once a month or so. No battery problems. Boat is on the original battery and four, going on five years old.
The jet ski gets charged in the garage every few months in the off season. The little battery seems to do OK. You have to be very careful not to overcharge the little devil; it looks more like a motorcycle battery than one for a car. A 2 amp rate for 1-1/2 hrs seems to top it off.
My point is that there's no one formula for battery treatment, other than to keep them charged, not over charge or overly drain them, and make sure they get water when they need it, and are not otherwise abused.
Joe. :teeth :thup
Here is a link to Surette Battery. I had never heard of this type of maintananc before.
http://www.surrette.com/content/prevent ... ation-605/
sorry haven't learned how to insert in test yet
Phil[/url]
http://www.surrette.com/content/prevent ... ation-605/
sorry haven't learned how to insert in test yet
Phil[/url]
Zydecomo-
Although the article you refer to would at first seem pretty rigorous, requiring very specific procedures and detailed record keeping, it can be done by simply watching to be sure you give your batteries good routine full charging cycles and watching the electrolyte levels.
I for one, don't like using hydrometers in a boat unless I suspect a problem, as there's the constant accidental drippage / splatter problem that leads to acid burns on surrounding materials. Inside the cabin, this is compounded by the materials there.
I think one just has to be attentive to think of the batteries and their state of charge just as much as you think of fuel when you're on a trip. Both need one's attention to avoid becoming "surprise" problems. Kind of like kids and especially teenagers.....
I have a Vector VEC1093 Smart 2/10/20/40/ and 100 amp Engine Start 12 Volt Charger hard mounted in my CD-22 which fully charges my batteries and desulfates them two or three times a year. The desulfate cycle sounds like a zip-zip-zip.....etc. cycle that lasts for a full day with all four batteries connected in parallel, but it works, and the charging cycle seems to equal them out routinely as it tapers down automatically from 40 to 2 amps and then shuts off. Most folks probably wouldn't want to hard wire the charger into their C-Dory, but it could be used very effectively periodically, then removed.
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Some will point out that I'm using an automotive non-spark protected ("explosion proof") charger on a boat, but it's mounted in the v-berth (I don't sleep there), and gas fumes on an outboard pilot house boat are unlikely to reach that area. Hydrogen and oxygen gases emitted during charging dissipate freely from where the batteries are under the forward dinette (there a gap to the side of the compartment toward the outer cabin wall), the charger and the batteries are separated in distance, and I open a gap in the windows, hatch, or door when charging at a higher rate.
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IMHO, the above is the best investment you can make in your battery life expectations.
Buy big, inexpensive flooded wet cell marine deep cycle batteries from someone like Wal-Mart, and just take care of them. Four $60 batteries = $240. Add a good charger like the one above for $110-$120, that will last through several sets of batteries, and you're home for cheap, and you've got 460 A-hrs of power when you need it. Works for me anyway. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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Dang! Post # 5000! Time for another breather!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Although the article you refer to would at first seem pretty rigorous, requiring very specific procedures and detailed record keeping, it can be done by simply watching to be sure you give your batteries good routine full charging cycles and watching the electrolyte levels.
I for one, don't like using hydrometers in a boat unless I suspect a problem, as there's the constant accidental drippage / splatter problem that leads to acid burns on surrounding materials. Inside the cabin, this is compounded by the materials there.
I think one just has to be attentive to think of the batteries and their state of charge just as much as you think of fuel when you're on a trip. Both need one's attention to avoid becoming "surprise" problems. Kind of like kids and especially teenagers.....
I have a Vector VEC1093 Smart 2/10/20/40/ and 100 amp Engine Start 12 Volt Charger hard mounted in my CD-22 which fully charges my batteries and desulfates them two or three times a year. The desulfate cycle sounds like a zip-zip-zip.....etc. cycle that lasts for a full day with all four batteries connected in parallel, but it works, and the charging cycle seems to equal them out routinely as it tapers down automatically from 40 to 2 amps and then shuts off. Most folks probably wouldn't want to hard wire the charger into their C-Dory, but it could be used very effectively periodically, then removed.
********************************************************************************
Some will point out that I'm using an automotive non-spark protected ("explosion proof") charger on a boat, but it's mounted in the v-berth (I don't sleep there), and gas fumes on an outboard pilot house boat are unlikely to reach that area. Hydrogen and oxygen gases emitted during charging dissipate freely from where the batteries are under the forward dinette (there a gap to the side of the compartment toward the outer cabin wall), the charger and the batteries are separated in distance, and I open a gap in the windows, hatch, or door when charging at a higher rate.
********************************************************************************
IMHO, the above is the best investment you can make in your battery life expectations.
Buy big, inexpensive flooded wet cell marine deep cycle batteries from someone like Wal-Mart, and just take care of them. Four $60 batteries = $240. Add a good charger like the one above for $110-$120, that will last through several sets of batteries, and you're home for cheap, and you've got 460 A-hrs of power when you need it. Works for me anyway. That's my story and I'm stickin' to it!
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Dang! Post # 5000! Time for another breather!
Joe. :teeth :thup