Awlgrip paint

N

nordicstallion

New member
I recoated the deck in the boat with awlgrip polyester urethane topcoat paint a week ago. It doesn't seem to be curing properly as it feels dry to the touch but my socks leave dull footprints in the gloss finish & stick a little. Do you suppose there was supposed to be a catalyst included with the paint order? Vern
 
Yes the paint requires a brushing catalyst... "Brush/Roll: Mix by volume two parts Awlgrip Topcoat Base Component with one part Awlcat #3/H3002 Brushing Converter until one smooth, homogenous mixture is obtained. Reduce 10–33% with T0031. Overall mix is 2:1:1⁄3–1 by volume. Example: 8 oz. Base, 4 oz. H3002, 1.3 - 4 oz. T0031. "

I suggest you contact awlgrip to determine your next step. Im afraid you will either have to catalyze and sand the paint you have applied, or you'll have to strip the coating as is. Get their recommendations, you are not the first person to do this...
 
See my recomdations on the other post. I feel that he is going to have to remove the current coat--and start over, including a primer coat, especially now that he has laid down an non catalyzed layer.
 
Hi Bob;
I agree with you...It is going to take time a lot of solvents, rags, respirators, patience and will power.
Cheers,
Pedro
 
Thank you boys, I got in touch with awlgrip & they said as you say. I screwed up again! I have another question into awlgrip asking if another catalyzed coat or 2 will negate the removal of the & catylise the uncatylized coat below. I'll let you know what they say. I certainly don't look forward to stripping the previous coat. Vern
 
Did you use the proper primer, sand first and wipe down/prep as per Awlgrip instructions?

Unfortunately you will not get the same effect if you just catalyze properly the next coat. There are a few rare circumstances in some products where this may work, but not with Awlgrip.

If this is the patterned nonskid, it is going to be more difficult to remove the un-catalyzed paint.

For each different uses of the LP paints, the prep is a little different; such as aluminum, nonskid,flat surfaces, curved hulls.

Good luck
 
Bob. No I didn't use their primer. This is on the rough nonskid cockpit floor. My prep consisted of scrubbing the nonskid areas with #2 steel wool, scrubbing with scrub brush & lacquer thinner, repeated thinner wipe downs followed by vacuuming. Haven't heard back from awlgrip on my second question yet.the awlgrip is sticking fine to the deck, problem is, it sticks to my socks too. Vern
 
Boy that was easy!! The tech guy suggested a citrus based paint stripper as apposed to lacquer thinner. I was skeptical. It worked out wonderfully. Couple of scrub downs in a troweled on coat & hose her down! Only took about 1 1/2 hr. Either it's amazing stuff or I was just lucky it was uncatylized. Either way, I'm happy, it's gone. Vern
 
Great to hear it came off that easy! I use the citrus based cleaner for clean up of epoxy, and urethane type of paints. Works very well. If it had been catalyzed and cured--it would not have worked.

What is the next step?
 
Next step is to give the boat a good wash down & check for any remnants of the last coat in any nook & crannies. Then rreabrade with steel wool, clean,clean, wipe down with lacquer thinner, wait for ups to bring more awlgrip & catalyst, then do it again. I'm covering lt grey with lt grey so it covers well in one coat. Not using a primer, undercoat or double coat because I don't want to fill in the nonskid bottom. I know I'm not following the party line but Awl grip is gloss for easier cleanup but don't to put so much on that it gets slippery. Vern
 
Don't use Steal wool to abrade/sand the surface!! Steal wool can leave traces behind. Not detected by our eyes (or at least very hard to see the older we get :disgust ) A few months of use and ....rust will begin to form. You'll see small areas where little dots of orange begin to form and you'll think what the heck is that. By the time you see those dots you'll have more work ahead of yourself than you want. Instead abrade the surface with a Scotchbrite pad. These are made of plastic and should a little piece find it's way past your eyes, tack cloth and vacuum it will blend into the sub surface and lay there without ill effect. Either use a Scotchbrite pad, sand paper and then follow up with a good vacuum than tack cloth or similar to pick what the vacuum doesn't. I don't ever use Steal wool in my boat building for this reason.
 
Haliman...do you have any pictures of your newly painted cock pit floor that you can post. I was thinking of using the same , how much paint did you order. Thanks Tug
 
Ditto the negative on steel wool. I have used brass wool in the past as well as a scruffy. If you do use steel wool, muratic acid will go a long way to removing the rust stains, but prevention is a better plan.

PS: Keep muratic acid off of metal surfaces. It will remove the rust stains but etches the chrome out of stainless and can cause it to bleed. It also attacks a galvanized finish. Be careful.
 
I agree, steel wool can cause problems if care is not taken. I had none & the awlgrip turned out great & cleans up easily. Grey over grey covered nicely with one light coat. Used a little less than 1/2 qt. in coating the cockpit, cabin, portapotty area,both side steps & footrest areas at the helm.
 
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