Anchoring at Lake Powell

thataway

Active member
At the Recent Lake Powell gathering I noticed that "new" boats to Powell were not equipped or did not understand anchoring under the conditions found there. During our trip this year, we had winds in excess of 40 knots on 3 occasions, so winds can be expected up there, and a good set of the anchor is essential. Also the type of anchor is important. We had used a Delta Quick set in the past, but on an average had drug on 2 nights out of a 2 to 4 week trip. This year, we went with a light weight "Boss" From Manson supreme. This anchor did not drag, and set quickly, on a short scope. At the gathering we noted Claw or Bruce type, Delta, Manson Supreme and Boss, Fortress, and Danforth anchors. There may have been some others--I know that Jody set a "box" anchor.


When looking for an anchoring area, look for good sand, with no brush under the water at the set point (there may be some brush between you and the bank. We always run over the area several times with the depth sounder, as well as put the bow near the beach to look for rocks or other obstructions before we drop the hook. We use the depth finder--and now the "down scan" gives us an even better picture of the bottom.

Here is RIGI setting their hook well off the beach properly:


Anchoring_set_the_hook_out_well.jpg

In this area, we had about 7: 1 scope out.

When you back to the shore, let plenty of line out, to an at least 3:1 scope and see if the anchor is set. We let the full weight of the boat come back, and check for dragging, by applying reverse thrust. As this point we estimate how far back the boat will have to come, before we come back to the beach were the crew can step off, in water which is not too deep and yet deep enough that the trim tabs, depth sounder transducers or engine lower units will hit. Sometimes this backing down, may take several tries, and of course it is better to have the depth too deep, and avoid damage to the lower units! We start to bring the lower unit to the depth where it is still getting enough cooling water, but will easily come up, clear of the water when we stop the engine as the mate steps ashore.
RIGI is just at the right depth, the crew ashore is in shoal water and ready to take one of the two anchors ashoreL


Anchoring_stern_to_the_bank_with_help.jpg

We happen to use two light weight Fortress or Guardian anchors, with about 6 feet of 1/4" chain attached, and 3/8" or 5/16" line.

Fortress_stern_anchor.jpg

Dig_in_the_anchor.jpg

The second anchor is then taken ashore:

Dig_in_the_anchor.jpg

Some folks use steel stakes (or even PVC pipe) hammered into the ground:

Steel_Stake_for_stern.jpg This stake is Pat Anderson's and has several toggles to increase its holding. We have seen straight steel stakes, and even old fence posts.

Also we used a "deadman" such as a rock or log buried:

Anchor_alternatives_bury_a_rock.jpg

In another case a mushroom anchor was buried:

Mushroom_anchor_buried.jpg

Finally we finish off the moor with two spring lines from the main rode, which will prevent bow roller chafe, and allow a little more shock absorption. When heavy winds we tend to pull a bit off the shore. Note we never leave the anchor rode on the windlass:

Spring_lines_2.jpg

Finally at Lake Powell we want to avoid critters--several folks have had ring tail cats, and kangaroo rats come aboard, so a rat guard is appropriate:

DSC01837.jpg

Fresbee_Rat_Guard.jpg

Foil_Rat_Guard.jpg

Note that Frisbies are the item of choice--but I suspect the foil may also work.

Some folks come bow to the beach--usually a bow anchor buried in a hole on the beach, and or two stern anchors from each aft quarter:
Such as Discovery and C View II



Discovery.jpg

C_View_II_and_Little_Bit.jpg

(note that Discovery has a "pocket dog"--those of us with slightly larger dogs like to go stern to, to easy their way ashore…. Both of these boats have bow ladders)
 
Thank you for the post Bob, as we plan on getting Wild Blue down to Powell next year. Currently she is set up with a Delta, but I do have claw, so I am wondering how those using a claw fared.
 
Very useful post!

Thataway: I take it that is your 22's bow with the snubber lines coming to two cleats in the typical "fairlead" position on the bow? If so, I'd be interested to know what size/brand cleats they are and how you like them. I would like to add similar cleats, but when I held various ones up to "try" them, it seemed tight between the deck pipe and the bow pulpit leg on starboard side (or the cleats that seemed roomy there, seemed as though they might be a bit small in use). You know how it is - sometimes hard to tell before actually using something. At any rate, those look good - plenty of room to starboard and not too small for the line, so I wonder what they are (if you know).

Thanks,
Sunbeam
 
Lost Petrel, I am not a big fan of the Claw type, but that is a personal preference, based on limited experience. I have used the Delta on most of my personal boats--after large CQR's on larger motor sailors. I would also have a Fortress or Danforth HT as a mud/sand anchor. In the cases where I had issues with the Delta dragging, I had a Fortress which did hold. I normally carry 2 Guardians G 7 l and 1 Fortress F 7 aboard. We did not have any heavy winds during the actual gathering, so I cannot comment on how well the Claw held. I did have over 40 knots on 3 occasions during the 3 1/2 weeks we were on the Lake--at times these gusts were on the beam, and the Boss did not budge. I would consider a 25# Boss as a alternative anchor on the C Dory 25. But picking up a F 11 anchor for a second bow anchor would be an excellent idea. I have not yet addressed the recent Fortress tests--but in these the Fortress out performed all of the other anchors by a long ways in mud.

Sunbeam. These are the SS cleats from West Marine. These are the 6" cleats, but I used 1/4" fasteners. There is 1.5" clearance from the leading edge of the forward post of the bow rail. The snubbers are only 5/16" line, so I did use small cleats. I used fender washers under the cleats, but the real back up, is the main rode with the original cleat which came on the C Dory 22. There is plenty of room for a proper set of turns for this size line, but I would not use these as primary mooring cleats at a dock.

I did leave off one photo:

Chafe_prevention.jpg

We carry several pieces of the foam insulation used for water pipes, and use this for chafe protection on the line--either on the boat, or over rocks. At times we do wrap chains around rocks, rather than use an anchor on the stern--and we carry extra bow shackles for this purpose.
 
Nice post Bob my Manson Boss is on its way. Still like the box anchor because of the 2 to 1 scope and no chain. Of course it can't hurt that it is for a 40 foot boat.
 
Jody, what size of Boss did you order? Bob, I sure agree with Jody about posting this thread being good stuff. It should make it much simpler for all concerned if those planning on future Gatherings at Lake Powell learn from it & follow your suggestions.

Jay
 
Thank You again Bob,
I do have a Danforth as a secondary anchor on the boat, but will pick up a Fortress to replace it as it packs so much better. I have no real experience with the claw either, it was something I picked up on a good deal.
I have always been satisfied with my Delta, but most of my anchoring has been in the PNW, or small lakes in mud.
 
Thanks for the cleat detail, Thataway. I will be using them for the same purpose as you - to cleat off the anchor snubber. So the smaller cleats should work fine (will be using smaller line). I will still have another "main" cleat for other purposes.

I had considered removing the deck pipe (after adding the windlass) but I don't think I am going to because I like being able to reach in and access the rode. I might put it in a different place if starting from scratch (so as to have a bit more cleat room there on the starboard side); but I figured I could make the additional cleats work anyway -- and seeing your added cleats with things in the same basic position is confirmation.

I was just today thinking I would like to get a Fortress (or Guardian) for my next anchor. I currently have a 15# Supreme (main), a ~9# claw (secondary bow or stern anchor) and a 1# Bruce (dinghy anchor). Seems like a Fortress/rode would be a nice addition, and with the ability to break down to stow at certain times. Just have to figure out which size (for some reason I can never "visualize" their various sizes as I can with other anchor types).

Sunbeam

(I also have a 22# Bruce but it's not set up with a rode and not on the boat at all. I thought I might prefer it to seeing the "hoop" on the Supreme, but so far am sticking with the Supreme for main anchor. Not sure how Bruce would "launch" if/when I put windlass on - the Supreme fairly leaps off the roller.)

PS: Powell content: I have used the "dog tie out" corkscrew skewers on Powell. They are not mega strong, but for certain places/situations they worked really well (often in conjunction with shore anchor) and they are very compact to carry along. Some of the stronger stakes look even better though. For those or shore anchors I have two 50' 3/8" lines (in addition to anchor rodes, dock lines, etc.). They have worked well, although I wouldn't want any less length. Last fall we had mice get past the frisbees - I think that the holes I drilled in them were a touch too large (3/8" for 3/8" line) and they got through where the "grooves" are in the 3-strand line. Crafty buggers!
 
Hi Bob,

Good information. I am not sure I would be comfortable in my CD22 'bow in' with just the bow anchor buried. I wonder with strong wind wind and waves if you could wind up beam to the shore. Not good if there are waves.

I anchored in Oak bay one time 'bow in' and had 40 knt gusts when a cell passed over. We had set two anchors, one from each stern cleat to shore. About 45 degrees and well buried. The wind did clock around a little but was mostly from the side. The windward anchor rode was bar tight and the other was drooping. Fortunately the anchors held and the wind stopped after about an hour.

Steve
 
Maybe they need "rent-a-cats" just for Powell :D (Or rent-a-snakes?)

The one thing that saved my sanity (not a fan of mice!) is that I was able to keep them out of the cabin. WHEW! Still, having one aboard and needing to keep the cabin door closed to keep it out is a pain. This year I have simply anchored out every night with no lines to shore, but that wouldn't be as sociable when with a group, so wouldn't necessarily be my choice then (since I got here after the CBGT, I'm out solo - would be more fun with some other Brats along though!). Also some spots are just nice for beaching (and we can!).
 
Lost Petrel":b9u6vwaf said:
they got through where the "grooves" are in the 3-strand line. Crafty buggers!

Sheesh! :shock: Now I see why Jim and Joan always kept a cat aboard. :D

Please note: little Izzy is NOT for rent. No evidence of a "kill" during our times at Lake Powell, but we did find a couple expired field mice carcasses while we were in the Tetons... that she caught while out on her leash!

I highly recommend a cat onboard, for more than mouse duty. :hug :cat :hug2

To keep this on-topic, none of our cats have been helpful in anchoring. :wink:
 
I don't know why but that doesn't look as big as Jay's 25 lb. what were your ideas for the change. Mine was when it was dragging through the sand and wouldn't bite and Jay's was just kind of planted.
 
Jody, It's for the Alaska trip next spring/summer. I have used a "Bruce" 10 kg in the past, and it won't set in kelp and sea weed. At Powell I always set the anchor on shore by hand, as shown in the picture of Discovery by Dr. Bob.
 
Over the last ten years I've spent over 700 days on Lake Powell, all throughout the calendar year; spring, summer, fall and winter. For what its worth, here's my take on anchoring.

I've tried the aft-to-the-beach approach. This takes too many hands (I boat by myself) and is literally impossible if the wind is blowing greater than 15 mph. It also takes too much time. I like to beach and get snugly situated quickly.

I always beach bow-in on a sandy beach. Note this may be no more than 2-3' of sand across between rock. You don't need much beach, which can be a major advantage during the busy season! The steeper the beach, the better. I like plenty of draft beneath my engines... but can live with as little as 2.5 feet.

I always anchor off both my aft cleats. I use 13# Danforths with 15' of 5/16" chain attached to 50' of 1/2" twisted nylon line. I always extend these rodes to at least 45' and carry another 50' of 1/2" twisted nylon line as "extenders" if needed to get the anchors into a sandy spot. Just like open water anchoring, the longer the rode, the better. I've braided eyes into the bight end of the primary rode and another into one end of each extender so I can rapidly clip the primary rode and extender together with carabiners.

With this set up, there is no reason to bury your anchors. (If you do, please fill in the holes when you leave!). Just set the anchors in sand so the flukes are buried. The chain is critical. Folks don't realize that the chain is what dissipates the pulling force on a rode. Without it, you are asking for trouble. Even the Phoenicians knew this!

I've weathered many a Powell storm with this set up. The most violent was one that NWS registered gusts to 72 MPH. The wind-borne sand pitted the windows on my Dory!

Beaching bow-in can make getting on and off the boat challenging for some. I usually use a 4 step, over the bow railing swim ladder unless the beach is steep enough to just jump on and off from. When I take my dog to the lake, I use a 8' folding ramp (aluminum), made for loading trail bikes onto truck beds. I wire tied bunk carpet to the ramp surface to provide more traction. I ratchet strap the ramp to the bow eye and all I have to do is step over the bow railing to use it. (The dog, being a whole lot shorter, just passes under the bow rail. Haha. ). I wire tied two 12" pieces of thick 3/4" pipe insulation to the edges of the ramp where it sits on the boat bow to keep it from scratching the boat. It works great. Its beach end kind of "floats" on the sand with movement of the boat.

I used to worry about the effect of sand on my hull. Frankly, other than a few minor scratches from rocks, my boat's hull where it contacts the beaches is only lightly scuffed.

As to mice- yes, they are here although they are not house mice per se, but pocket mice and kangaroo rats. They rarely board boats unless you leave them a trail of morsels. To prevent such boardings, I sometimes use the big red funnels you can buy at Home Depot and cut them down one side. They then fit (funnel side toward shore) over the 1/2" rodes.

There are many ways to skin a cat. This is the anchoring method for Powell that for me is 100% proven and super quick and easy. This approach is especially effective if you have no crew!
 
A couple of comments on a great post. You are so fortunate to live near one of the top boating destinations! I also agree that the stern too is more difficult with no crew. One can certainly debate which is "faster"--bow on the beach with two stern anchors in deep water and one bow anchor on the beach--or somewhere... or stern to the beach with one bow anchor and two stern mooring arrangements--be it anchors, stakes, large rocks or deadman, buried in the sand. For me, it is more difficult to know I have a good set on an anchor in deep water--- than to secure on the beach--be it pushing anchor floors or chains around rocks. Setting two stern anchors--how far apart do you set them? Do you set them both at once--if so, how do you know that they are set fully? Some of these canyons are so deep that it is difficult to get 7:1 scope--and is a reason I have 50' of chain and 300' of 8 plait. My stern anchor rodes are at least 100 to 200 feet in length. I have 2 x15 foot extra chains, for use around rocks or trees. My back up rodes total over 400 feet.

You have to secure the bow--it it goes to the beach--and I didn't see that addressed. I assume you would do with another anchor/stake/deadman etc.? I believe I saw a Fortress in one photo of your boat.

As one ages with back disease, getting over bow railing and up ladders becomes more difficult--but it has its features and advocates. We have also used the folding gang planks for dogs--and found for us--that going stern to the beach works far better--including dogs up to 70#. (I have had plenty of experience with dog gang planks off bows with our 46 and 62 foot boats, as well as c Dory--what works for a person, is best for that person--but not always for others.

I personally don't dig holes for anchors--and most that I see are left there by house boaters. There were some in the illustrations, because those boats happened to use ones which were there--and I agree that they should be filled in.

Having a genuine Danforth anchor is important--the 12# High Test Danforth anchor is far better than the 13# standard for a number of reasons. The steel is far better, the flukes are sharp, and they had the "T" stiffener forged edges, vs bent sheet metal. The worst of the bunch are some of the "Danforth" knock offs. We prefer the Fortress or Guardian anchors--they have outperformed the Danforths in many tests, and are lighter...sort of a paradox in an anchor. The Danforth type are the best for sand--and Mud--Fortress even better for mud.

What carabiners do you use? There are very few carabiners which are rated to handle the load of an anchoring system. I personally will not use one except for some very light weight dinghy type of anchors.

Although I agree that chain is important--One has to always remember that at a certain point chain no longer has the catenary affect once the wind reaches a critical velocity; by 20 knots it is diminished and absent in winds over 40 knots. This is why I believe that the snubbers are essential to avoid shock load in higher wind velocity. 15 feet of chain has very little catenary effect. In larger boats we use at least 150 to 200 feet of chain to get this effect.

Do you anchor off the stern--with anchors in deep water, or anchors to the beach as in your album:

P1010026.jpg

My problem with this approach is when in a storm, the boat can be driven further onto the beach, or allowed to pound on the beach/rocks and no way to pull the boat away from the beach (as we do in a storm).

Another from your great album: I didn't see any illustrations of what I think you advocate.

P5150037.sized.jpg

Thanks
 
Thanks for your comments. Thanks too for taking the time to dredge up some old photos! The top photo showing the boat bow into the beach is how I always "anchor" at Powell. I run 50' of rode off each stern cleat to 15' of chain attached to Danforths, as indicated in my posts. I place the anchors into sand.

Yes, my bow anchor is a Fortress. If I had the bucks I would buy two more to replace the old #13 Danforths I use! But I've never had a problem with the old Danforths. I found them both on beaches at Powell. By all means, if you can afford Fortresses, do so, but for me the old crappy Danforths have never failed me.

As to chain - all I know is what I have has always worked. I have never had an anchor and chain pull free and I have seen (and felt) what Powell offers up on dozens of occasions...

The lower photo made me smile. That's how I used to anchor at Powell years ago! What a pain! But I know some folks prefer a "stern in" approach.

As to use of my bow anchor - I only use it on Powell when I anchor away from shore in one of the shallow bays, e.g., Warm Creek, on the east side of the "hook" that extends south from Gunsite Butte and back at the ends of canyons like Navajo. I do not ever set my bow anchor when I beach bow in and use the two anchors off the stern.

As to pounding - this happens only if the bow is not fully "engaged" with the beach. I should have mentioned that when anchoring bow in, I'll bring the bow into contact with the beach then drive the boat up onto the sand - not far, maybe 1-2 feet depending on the steepness of the beach. This locks the bow to the shore.

I set the two anchors off the stern by first tying the ends of the rodes to each aft cleat. I then dump the line and chain overboard and walk the anchor to the bow where I throw it onto the beach. I do the same for the other anchor set up on the opposite side. Then I jump onto the beach and drag the windward anchor tight at a 45 degree angle from the boat. I drop the anchor into the sand when the boat is slightly less than perpendicular to the beach. I make the boat perpendicular again when I stretch out the second anchor set up and pulling hard, drop it into the sand. This makes taut the rode on the opposite side. If needed, I tighten up the rodes back at one or both aft cleats when I get back aboard. Keeping each rode taut keeps the bow on the beach.

I place the windward anchor first to keep the boat from pivoting out of its "lock" with the sandy beach.

I have never had my bow come off the beach using this method.

I have also never been trapped on a beach. To get off when it's time to leave, simply put your engine in reverse and turn the wheel hard to one side. When the aft swings to that side 4-6 feet, simply turn all the way to the opposite direction and let the stern of the boat swing to that side 4-6 feet. Do this until the boat backs off the beach. You might have to give her a bit of throttle (!), but it's mostly about patience.

I have never been "driven onto" a beach to an extent I couldn't back off using the technique above. However, I also try and find beaches where the wind comes from 90 degrees from either side of the direction the bow is pointing. I guess if you had 3' waves coming into the bilge that might drive a Dory up onto a beach!

Pounding at the bow can happen, but it means the bow needs to be driven up onto the beach to "lock it in". Pounding is more of an issue on shallow beaches vs. steep ones.

As to carabiners, I use quick links from REI that have a rating of something like 6700 pounds. See link below.

Anyway, hope this helps!

https://www.rei.com/product/117552/metolius-10mm-quick-link-carabiner
 
Thanks for the detailed report--and I had envisioned wrongly how you were suggesting anchoring--from the stern. What you are advocating is what all of the houseboats do. This can work for Powell--but I have seen houseboats which stayed for a couple of weeks, where the lake had dropped significantly--and work boats had to be brought in to free her. (probably some of the "release" was the prop wash of the sand out. )

As for the Fortress expense--cannot beat free--but one of my #7 Fortress cost $5 at a garage sale. My #11 was about $25 at an auction. Don't remember the price, but there are several at our local consignment shops...so one does not always have to pay retail.--and the Guardian are a bit cheaper than the Fortress.

I think it is important to be detailed when describing a piece of equipment such as a carabiner. The quick link--is rated much higher than a standard carabiner--but the high rating is the minimum breaking strength--not a safe working load--which is a fraction of the MBS.

The quick link--with a screw connector--not rated for anchoring use below, is much stronger than the typical carabiner:

CAMP_Oval_Quicklink_8mm_Steel.jpg


Typical carabiner: (There are some with locking mechanism--but this type has little strength)

61rUsyIW91L._SY355_.jpg
 
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