Anchor

[bshillam]

Looked over as many posts as I could. Knowing what you do what anchor for the PNW would you have on your CD if you could have any (one). Need one for the CD 25' none installed.

 

[thataway]

Although the Bruce or copies are popular in PNW, I had excellent results with the Manson Supreme on the 25. For my larger boats, the CQR (second generation anchor) only drug once--and that was in a bottom of 2 to 3" round rocks. Noting really works well on that...Move to better holding ground.

There are anchor grabbers up there. So an anchor which can be pulled from the crown if necessary is a good idea.

 

[Chester]

I'd consider the Rocna Vulcan. No annoying rollbar to look at undereway.

 

[bridma]

Manson Supreme

Martin.

 

[hardee]

I'd consider the Rocna Vulcan. No annoying rollbar to look at undereway.

I like my Rocna, It has a beautiful rainbow arch that I just drive through to get to the pot of gold. :shock: 8) :lol:

I have gone through a Bruce, Delta, and started with a Fortress. Rarely had any issues with any (except the Delta plow - harder to get to set and hold), but my most favorite and always more comfortable with the "set" is the Rocna. It might just be that I am a firm believer in Physics.

And a good adjunct to a good anchor is a good length of chain. (My definition of a good length of chain -- equal to at least 2 times the length of your boat.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[journey on]

Journey On came from the factory with a Bruce anchor and 100' of chain. We spent the first few years in the Pacific Northwest, most of the time anchoring in muddy places. The Bruce worked well. Then we went out in SoCal, anchoring around Santa Cruz Island in grass, rocks and kelp. The Bruce didn't penetrate and we used the Danforth. The Danforth with the sharp points cut through the kelp/grass or hooked in the rocks.

So we now use the Bruce for the PNW mud where the scoop can hold the mud and a Danforth/Ronca in SoCal for kelp/rocks/grass. Every anchor sets well in sand.

Of course an anchor is a personal choice and everyone likes the anchor they use.

Boris

 

[localboy]

I'd consider the Rocna Vulcan. No annoying rollbar to look at undereway.

Agree. It fit on our roller, although the tip is very close to the bow when compared to our old Delta. It also has excellent holding. It’s 20 lbs vs the 14 of our old Delta. The Delta 14 was at the lower end of their recommendation chart for a 25’ boat however.

I’ve added a Manson swivel since this pic was taken. I got tired of the twisted rode.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

 

[hardee]

When I changed from the Delta, I initially went for the Vulcan, but was just real uncomfortable with the proximity of the point to the paint (Gel coat) so changed to the Rocna. Have not been disappointed.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[ssobol]

When I changed from the Delta, I initially went for the Vulcan, but was just real uncomfortable with the proximity of the point to the paint (Gel coat) so changed to the Rocna. ...

Need to do the bow saver mod.

See this image. Ignore the circle.



Dr. Bob made a post here that details the process. Works quite well.

 

[hardee]

ssobol,
I looked at doing several different "bow saver mods" with multiple different materials, stainless to Neolite, and several in-between. Just didn't care for the look, mostly.

I am totally happy with my Rocna 6. Never drags, never twists, cleans easy, and the physics makes sense.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[ssobol]

ssobol,
I looked at doing several different "bow saver mods" with multiple different materials, stainless to Neolite, and several in-between. Just didn't care for the look, mostly. ...

Maybe, but it looks better than dings in the gelcoat.

 

[localboy]

I installed one.

Now our boat is practically a Norhavn. :lol:

 

[hardee]

ssobol,
I looked at doing several different "bow saver mods" with multiple different materials, stainless to Neolite, and several in-between. Just didn't care for the look, mostly. ...

Maybe, but it looks better than dings in the gelcoat.

Again, looking at the geometry and physics aspect of that photo. How does that protect the bow from dings and dents?

Looking at the anchor shaft, the protection plate, for that anchor would need to be almost completely below where it currently is. Because, by the time the anchor is starting into the bow roller, it is lifted out and away from the bow. However, when the anchor is hanging with the shank vertically from the roller, (before it engages in the roller), the pointy sharp stuff on the anchor is free to swing and ding, at the level of the length of the anchor shaft.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[ssobol]

...

Looking at the anchor shaft, the protection plate, for that anchor would need to be almost completely below where it currently is. Because, by the time the anchor is starting into the bow roller, it is lifted out and away from the bow. However, when the anchor is hanging with the shank vertically from the roller, (before it engages in the roller), the pointy sharp stuff on the anchor is free to swing and ding, at the level of the length of the anchor shaft. ...

I suppose it depends on the geometry of the anchor and the roller. In my case, the only time the anchor is really likely to hit the bow is when it just comes on or off the roller, i.e. just when it pivots over the edge of the roller. The point of my anchor could easily hit the bow about an inch below the rub rail, and there are chips to show this. An alternative solution would have been to get a longer anchor roller.

Yes, there can be extremes of swing when the anchor is hanging down, but in everyday usage, these are not a problem.

 

[NewMoon]

A Rocna 10 (22 lb) with 40 feet of chain worked perfectly on my heavy 26 footer over several summers and hundreds of overnights in BC and SEAK in winds to 35 knots. Much better than the genuine Bruce it replaced. Sets quick and solid, great holding power.