Anchor shackle recommendation

B

bridma

New member
Joined
Sep 13, 2011
Messages
1,155
Reaction score
0
C Dory Year
2009
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Nomad
I have been searching the Google custom search for C-Brats, but in all the postings on anchor chain and anchor shackles, I can not find the answers to my questions.
If you have two shackles (U to U) connecting the anchor stock to the anchor chain, should I be using straight shackles or bow shackles?
My half inch anchor rode has the spliced in plastic eye, it requires a larger shackle to fit it, so now the pin is to big to go through my 1/4 inch chain. This means again using two shackles (U to U) to join the rode to the chain. Same question, do I use straight shackles or bow shackles?
I do not have a windlass, so that is not an issue.

Martin.
 
I have always used bow shackles on anchor rodes. Get the biggest shackle which will fit the 1/4" chain. Often you can work the shackle over the plastic thimble on the eye splice. I can double check the size of the shackle I use--but I think I was able to use a 3/8" shackle recently on the chain which I have (I think it is CP, not HT).
 
Martin-

I'd use two bow shackles, as they will interact more smoothly with their circular bodies and smaller openings, which will stay centered on the chain and eye.

The 1/4" chain (if high Test) and the 1/2 nylon rope both have breaking strengths of around 7,000-8,000 pounds, so make sure the two shackles have similar specifications to avoid intentionally putting a weak link in the system.

I'd drill the flattened thumb accommodating parts of the pins, and then use seizing wire to lock the shackles shut after tightening them with pliers.

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I would recommend a heavier chain and lighter rode. The heavier the chain the better it holds the shank of your anchor down. The lighter rode and heavier chain also both contribute to greater elasticity in your overall ground tackle system. This is particually important if you should have to anchor in steep seas. The jerk at the taut end of the ride is what breaks crap! Including breaking your anchor loose..... I had trouble finding a shackle for my 15# navy, needed something with a deeper throat but without the larger diameter. The marina sold me a s/s shackle from their sail rigging dept. Cost $28. and it looked light but they assured me that it still had the strength..... Regards Rob
 
Thank you for the replies guys. It seems bow shackles have taken the lead. When I bought the boat it came with 135' of 3/8" nylon rode and 21' of standard 1/4" galvanised chain. Lying around in my garage I had 185' of new 1/2" nylon and 20' of standard 1/4" galvanised chain.
So I put the 185' nylon on to the 21' bow chain. Made up a stern anchor with the 135' of rode and 20' chain. Hauling in the bow tackle by hand should be easier with 1/2" rode as against the 3/8" rode. That was my reasoning.
Now I'm thinking, should I change the bow chain for 33' (one and a half times the length of the boat) of high test 1/4" chain and high test shackles, or leave it all alone? Decisions, decisions.

Martin.
 
bridma":2poa2m5m said:
Thank you for the replies guys. It seems bow shackles have taken the lead. When I bought the boat it came with 135' of 3/8" nylon rode and 21' of standard 1/4" galvanised chain. Lying around in my garage I had 185' of new 1/2" nylon and 20' of standard 1/4" galvanised chain.
So I put the 185' nylon on to the 21' bow chain. Made up a stern anchor with the 135' of rode and 20' chain. Hauling in the bow tackle by hand should be easier with 1/2" rode as against the 3/8" rode. That was my reasoning.
Now I'm thinking, should I change the bow chain for 33' (one and a half times the length of the boat) of high test 1/4" chain and high test shackles, or leave it all alone? Decisions, decisions.

Martin.
Click to expand...

I'd finish it off as is, then use it for awhile, then decide if change is necessary.

Why change something if you don't know it's wrong or defective?

The elasticity factor is a real consideration, as is the length of the chain, but so also is the size of the rode in your hands, and a lot of other factors, including where and how you use it, and your type of anchor.

You now know what to look for to see if it works properly, right?

Try it first, maybe you're good to go! :wink

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hi Martin,

We have 35' of high test 1/4" chain and 300' of 3 strand 1/2" nylon line on C-Cakes. I like more chain as it gives more weight to hold the anchor down during rough weather, reduces the severity of jerks as the boat moves and keeps a flatter angle on the anchor as though you had more rode out. I connected two pieces of chain to make the 35'. As you are pulling by hand :smilep you could use a strong shackle to join two pieces.
 
Decision reached. I changed the anchor chain to 35 ft, 1/4'', high test, ($100). Four high test bow shackles, ($10 each). As some one said earlier, "you can not put a price on safety and peace of mind". Thank you for your input and help.

Martin.
 
Actually the ground tackle in this case (rode and chain) are most likely going to higher SWL than the anchors. (I would not consider a 15# Navy type for a C Dory 22.)

The 1/2" line and 1/4" HT chain will give a C Dory SWL up to a Full Hurricane force wind! The 1/2" line is better "hand" for pulling up by hand, and is utilized by most windlasses for a boat this size.

The chain length is a different story. Yes, under certain conditions a longer chain may be of some help--but it is more difficult to pull by hand, and if in mud or foul bottom, it is much more difficult to clean. Generally the length of the waterline or about 20 feet in the C Dory 22 is more than adequate. The chain offers anti chafe from the bottom elements. The "Catenary" effect of chain disappears at a certain wind speed--with the C Dory and 1/4" chain that will be somewhere about 40 to 45 knots, and the chain becomes tight. There are very rare cases where I would consider more than 1/4" HT chain for a C Dory 22. (Or any of our C Dories for that case)

I would much prefer to use a snubber for shock absorbing effect, than the main rode. Thus use 3/8", or even 5/16" backed by 3/8" snubbers to get the best for shock loading. The 1/2" line will not give much shock loading in the boat the size of the C Dory 22. I have several 300 foot lengths of 1/2" rode left over from larger boats past, and although I may take them along--my primary "normal" anchoring rode will be 7/16, and in some cases 3/8". For the Stern, the 3/8 will be 90% of the time. I used a 3/8" braid on braid for over 20 years as a stern line on a real variety of boats up to 50 feet. The strength is there for most instances.

Also if you are going to be using the rode by hand, consider one of the nylon Plait lines might be considered.

There is a problem joining two HT chains together. There is no connector that is equal to the SWL or breaking strength, unless you have an oversized line in each end of each line. I have used a peened connecting link, with the both halves set in epoxy just before the peen is affected. This should increase the SWL by at least 50% and be closer to the HT chain.
 
Back
Top