Anchor rode length?
- Thread starter jlastofka
- Start date
Jim B.,
As I mentioned, local conditions make a huge difference.
I do remember that in the Gulf (near Florida - not Texas so sorry about that) having trouble getting the anchor to set in water that was too shallow in the first place. (West Coast bias - the only time I like to see water depths under 100 feet are when it's time to anchor and anything under 25 feet is shallow.) I don't remember seeing water over 25 feet as we cruised out of Tampa Bay. Anyway - different waters with different bottoms mean different anchoring schemes.
Reminds me of my glider flying days. East and west coast conditions were so different that it was disconcerting to say the least.
'nuff.
As I mentioned, local conditions make a huge difference.
I do remember that in the Gulf (near Florida - not Texas so sorry about that) having trouble getting the anchor to set in water that was too shallow in the first place. (West Coast bias - the only time I like to see water depths under 100 feet are when it's time to anchor and anything under 25 feet is shallow.) I don't remember seeing water over 25 feet as we cruised out of Tampa Bay. Anyway - different waters with different bottoms mean different anchoring schemes.
Reminds me of my glider flying days. East and west coast conditions were so different that it was disconcerting to say the least.
'nuff.
Local condtions? I have anchored in probably every harbor (0n the salt water coasts) what other C Dory members have been in. There isn't a harbor which will not have a storm, wind/ current shift etc.--and it is most likely to occur when you are conplacent. We always anchor assuming that the wind will be 50 knots. We always use reverse to set the anchor, we always have a plan to get out if the wind comes up and we are set toward a lee shore. I was in Cabo San Lucas, only 8 days after the "Cabo Storm" --where over 28 well equipt cruising boats went on the beach and were lost--and I have seen dozens of other very well equipt boats go on the beach when they thought "Local conditions" only warented a lunch hook and small amount of scope.
Yes, I have drug, yes, I have had to cut and run leaving several thousands worth of anchoring gear on the bottom-- (to be recovered by diving later)--but I try and make sure that doesnt' happen.
Yes, I have drug, yes, I have had to cut and run leaving several thousands worth of anchoring gear on the bottom-- (to be recovered by diving later)--but I try and make sure that doesnt' happen.
I WAS STURGEON FISHINH A FEW DAYS BACK, AND USED MY WINDLASS FOR THE FIRST TIME, FIRST TIME RELEASING THE WINDLASS, THE ROPE CAUGHT HOLD OF ONE OF THE MOUNTING BOLTS THAT WERE DOWN INSIDE THE BOW OF THE BOAT, WHEN RELEASING THE LINE IT CAUGHT ONE OF THE THREE LONG BOLTS AND GOT CAUGHT, THIS WAS AN OVERSIGHT BY THE MARINA, THAT INSTALLED IT,THIS COULD HAVE BEEN A REAL; DISATER HAD I NEEDED IN CASE OF A REAL EMERGENCY, INSTEAD IT JUST SPOILED A FINE DAY OF FISHING, I JUST WANT TO CAUTION EVERYONE TO CHECK THERES AND AS THE INSTRUCTIONS SAY, MAKE SURE THOSE LONG BOLTS ARE CUT OFF AND DOUBLE NUTS ON, JUST A SAFETY TIP, THANKS . 
James,
I looked at your photos of Wild Blue and I noticed that you don't have chalks or guides...when you anchor, I assume you tie the line off to the cleat behind the windlass. Does a changing tide or wind put stress on the windlass or rail as the boat changes directions and the line slides across the bow? I haven't anchored the boat yet and I'm curious. Sometimes my imagination runs wild so I'm doing a reality check with someone with the same boat who's anchored plenty of times.
Thanks,
I looked at your photos of Wild Blue and I noticed that you don't have chalks or guides...when you anchor, I assume you tie the line off to the cleat behind the windlass. Does a changing tide or wind put stress on the windlass or rail as the boat changes directions and the line slides across the bow? I haven't anchored the boat yet and I'm curious. Sometimes my imagination runs wild so I'm doing a reality check with someone with the same boat who's anchored plenty of times.
Thanks,
Hi Sarge,
We use some chaffe protection (old fire hose) on the line when conditions warrant. I was surprised with the whole no chalks situation, but it hasn't been a problem to this point. With two anchors out, we run the primary (on the windlass) out the anchor roller and attach the chaffe protection there; then run the second off the side a bit, through the bow rail. Both tied to the bow cleat. Different locations require different techniques, as we learned at Lake Powell... we also carry extra line onboard for tying off to shore in those situations. Again, depending on the location/situation, we prefer to anchor out. Nothing unusual about anchoring the CD, but being a relatively light boat with plenty of windage, it wants to sail around a bit at anchor. You can minimize this by setting a second anchor (bow or stern, depending on the situation), or tying a rolling hitch on your primary and tying that line off to a stern cleat. Most times we find that the movement isn't uncomfortable (actually relaxing usually)... it just depends on how tight the anchorage is or how others there are anchored. We make it a point to try to find shallow, protected water for anchoring.
Joking aside (about keeping the Blonde up to keep an eye on the set), we want to be secure on the hook. Who doesn't? Use the sounder to get a feel for the bottom, use plenty of rode, chain is your friend, a good anchor, back down on it to be sure you are set, pay attention to tide and weather, pick your anchoring spot, and ask others who are already anchored (they don't want you to drag in the middle of the night, either :wink: ). Goodness knows you could wind up dragging down on some naked guy in the middle of the night, but I'll let Dixie tell you about that.
Are we going to see you at Bellingham? From the sounds of it, there will be lots of folks (and opinions)... I just love good local knowledge.
Best wishes,
Jim B.
We use some chaffe protection (old fire hose) on the line when conditions warrant. I was surprised with the whole no chalks situation, but it hasn't been a problem to this point. With two anchors out, we run the primary (on the windlass) out the anchor roller and attach the chaffe protection there; then run the second off the side a bit, through the bow rail. Both tied to the bow cleat. Different locations require different techniques, as we learned at Lake Powell... we also carry extra line onboard for tying off to shore in those situations. Again, depending on the location/situation, we prefer to anchor out. Nothing unusual about anchoring the CD, but being a relatively light boat with plenty of windage, it wants to sail around a bit at anchor. You can minimize this by setting a second anchor (bow or stern, depending on the situation), or tying a rolling hitch on your primary and tying that line off to a stern cleat. Most times we find that the movement isn't uncomfortable (actually relaxing usually)... it just depends on how tight the anchorage is or how others there are anchored. We make it a point to try to find shallow, protected water for anchoring.
Joking aside (about keeping the Blonde up to keep an eye on the set), we want to be secure on the hook. Who doesn't? Use the sounder to get a feel for the bottom, use plenty of rode, chain is your friend, a good anchor, back down on it to be sure you are set, pay attention to tide and weather, pick your anchoring spot, and ask others who are already anchored (they don't want you to drag in the middle of the night, either :wink: ). Goodness knows you could wind up dragging down on some naked guy in the middle of the night, but I'll let Dixie tell you about that.
Are we going to see you at Bellingham? From the sounds of it, there will be lots of folks (and opinions)... I just love good local knowledge.
Best wishes,
Jim B.
Jim,
I had planned on going to Bellingham, but I think it is slipping away. The Mrs. has to work, which leaves me with the boys (2 and 5 years old), plus I need to fly to California on Sunday evening on a business trip. I was hoping to make it for a day, but even that looks tenuous at best.
Thanks for sharing your experience with anchoring a CD25. Much appreciated.
I had planned on going to Bellingham, but I think it is slipping away. The Mrs. has to work, which leaves me with the boys (2 and 5 years old), plus I need to fly to California on Sunday evening on a business trip. I was hoping to make it for a day, but even that looks tenuous at best.
Thanks for sharing your experience with anchoring a CD25. Much appreciated.
Old Dog":2pxc762m said:
Hey there OldDog... we can all learn new tricks! :wink "Anything under 25 feet is shallow"???? I guess it's all perspective, huh? I had to take a photo of the sounder showing 1000' when we were in the San Juans, 'cause I knew my buddies in south Texas wouldn't believe it. My idea of shallow: when the boat touches the bottom. We have frequently anchored in less than 10' of water (not a problem when the tide swing is 2'). If I put out 50' of chain in 5' of water, I know I'm not going anywhere during the night!
Plus, I can just look down and see that the anchor is set. I recall poking around Friday Harbor, looking for a place to anchor... the shallowest I could find that wasn't already wall-to-wall was over 50'... I thought to myself, "I don't have enough rode for a 7 to 1 and if I did I'd need a quarter mile of swinging room!!!" 8) If you set your depth alarm for 25', in most places along the Gulf it would never stop going off!
On the bright side, if you happen to go overboard, you can just walk home. :wink: Best wishes,
Jim B.
Jim B.,
Yup - it's all perspective.
Started sailing in the Finger Lakes of upstate New York and the water's very deep almost from the very edge. It wasn't quite true that you'd hit the shore before going aground but pretty close in most places. And, of course, as you note - Puget Sound is quite deep.
I have done a little boating in the Gulf and found the depths, or lack of them, very disconcerting at first. Went aground for the first tme near Tampa Bay and it wasn't a big deal. Seeing the bottom, seeing the anchor and walking to shore are certainly some pluses for boating in shallow water. It's also a lot warmer. In Puget Sound, when you hit something with the bottom of boat it's usually harder than fiberglass and the water around it is most likely cold and deep.
There is a lot of boating here in the Columbia River and I've had the R-25 out in it a few times recently for one reason or another. Except for the shipping channels, it's not very deep with sand bars that move around. It seems shallow from my "warped" perspective.
I think I'll work on some new tricks as soon as I master the old ones - if I ever do.
Coming back up this way this summer?
Yup - it's all perspective.
Started sailing in the Finger Lakes of upstate New York and the water's very deep almost from the very edge. It wasn't quite true that you'd hit the shore before going aground but pretty close in most places. And, of course, as you note - Puget Sound is quite deep.
I have done a little boating in the Gulf and found the depths, or lack of them, very disconcerting at first. Went aground for the first tme near Tampa Bay and it wasn't a big deal. Seeing the bottom, seeing the anchor and walking to shore are certainly some pluses for boating in shallow water. It's also a lot warmer. In Puget Sound, when you hit something with the bottom of boat it's usually harder than fiberglass and the water around it is most likely cold and deep.
There is a lot of boating here in the Columbia River and I've had the R-25 out in it a few times recently for one reason or another. Except for the shipping channels, it's not very deep with sand bars that move around. It seems shallow from my "warped" perspective.
I think I'll work on some new tricks as soon as I master the old ones - if I ever do.
Coming back up this way this summer?
dogon dory
New member
Sorry, Folks - Post Deleted By Author
Another trick is to use a snubber line shackled to the bow eye of the CD 25. The Tom Cat is reachable from the foredeck; the CD 25 much less so. So I would permently secure the snubber line (3/8" or 7/16" 3 strand nylong) to an eye splice and shackle to the bow eye, and take this to the anchor rode with a rolling hitch--thus avoiding any point of chafe. You can back up to the fore deck cleat--behind the windlass, with slack in the line.
Bob,
So, if I understand you correctly, I would have a line (snubber line) attached to my bow eye (where I would attach a winch if I were to trailer my boat), and then tie this to my rode with a rolling-hitch. Then allow slack in the rode and tie the rode to my bow cleat?
Wouldn't this arrangement have the rolling-hitch knot underwater? Would that be a problem?
Also, I've been practicing my rolling-hitch knots. Are they easy to undo when I want to raise the anchor?
Thanks in advance.
So, if I understand you correctly, I would have a line (snubber line) attached to my bow eye (where I would attach a winch if I were to trailer my boat), and then tie this to my rode with a rolling-hitch. Then allow slack in the rode and tie the rode to my bow cleat?
Wouldn't this arrangement have the rolling-hitch knot underwater? Would that be a problem?
Also, I've been practicing my rolling-hitch knots. Are they easy to undo when I want to raise the anchor?
Thanks in advance.
Sarge":1rvp8svu said:
Hi Sarge,
Just in case Dr. Bob is otherwise occupied, yes, the rolling hitch may be at or below the waterline (depending on the scope). Not a problem. We used to do this with our trimaran to keep it from sailing at anchor. As long as you have pressure off the knot from the back side, it should untie easily... when you are ready to up anchor, untie the line from the aft cleat, raise the primary with the windlass until the knot is easy to reach from the bow, untie it, resume raising the anchor.
Take an afternoon and practice anchoring several different ways... see what fits your needs. Let us know what you think.
Best wishes,
Jim