Anchor Drum Winch

Nice video.

Where/when I anchor for hali, not sure, but most likely will continue to use my stern release system for safety but also avoid tangling with the rode playing the fish. I also like to attach chum bag to my anchor so leaving it down is best.

The motor failure in video was certainly interesting. Wonder if that was a 1 off failure or if a truly poor design flaw.

In house testing but clearly a winner and runner up. Thanks for the phone # offer, but not ready yet, need the new boat first lol.
 
Interesting video--did not include reel winches by Lewmar or Muir who are mainstream windlass/winch builders. I probably have not included some of the commercial--many of those are hydraulic and used on fishing boats.

Salt water and electricity? The motor on the Lemar 700 etc are sealed and no electrical parts above deck.

How about level wind vs bunching up of line? No chain on these drums? 6 meter boats= 20'

Clutter of deck--see photo and consider that anchor rode (chain) would bang on deck--solution may be teak or SS tray for chain to lie on when not pulling, or be disconnected, but then you loose a primary function of an easily deployable anchor from the helm--to deploy in an emergency. I have not had to deploy an anchor in an emergency, but I have had to on larger boats, when there was loss of power or steering in a tight situation to keep the boat from crashing into other boats or ashore (on rocks).

Cost = 3 to 4 times of a Lewmar Horizontal axis? That is the most common windlass used on C Dory.

Here is a photo of what I believe is an EZ puller (?); my apology I don't remember the name of the C Dory
Image.sized.jpg

The anchor ball method of raising an anchor is quick and used frequently in many areas. There is a safety issue. I am aware of several deaths and injuries from a foot or leg being tangled in the anchor rode as the boat applies power (speed) to raise the anchor, and the person was thrown overboard, injured or killed. I don't have the citation at hand, but I believe I saw these on The Hull Truth a few years back. That should be preventable, but....
 
Speaking of anchoring and watching out for the other guy, something I passed along at Hontoon, and I'll mention here. When anchoring with other boats nearby, consider both wind and current, and then your DRAFT! Our boats don't draft much and will be more affected by wind than current. Other boats, with deeper drafts will be affected more by current. I learned this one night when the winds and currents were in opposite directions, and even though I thought I had put enough space between me and another bigger boat, it was fortunate that I woke up in the middle of the night, and gandered out my window to see that I was getting very close to the other boat. Not long after that, I pushed our boats apart before they touched and pulled anchor and went back to the dock. (Fortunately, I had my track in my chartplotter back to the dock. There was no way I would be able to re-anchor in the dark, among all the other boats. This is worth consideration, even if you plan ahead of time, as someone else could come in after you, and not consider how shallow our draft is, and anchor thinking we'd all be swinging the same way!
 
Colby, The beginner that I am, with reel boats, makes me glad that I have for 30 yrs chosen to use 8:1 scope for extra sleep. This allows me and has allowed me the benefit of pulling ahead in a crowded anchorage as another boat bears down on me while swinging. Most vacation boaters simply don't watch. I've been where you were at there and it is scary.

Ssobol, I tend to agree with the 3/8 as being the limit of what is comfy.

Punkin here is another video. Being from the tree industry I've always spliced my own backsplises, Eyes and joint splices. Never wanted to have from someone else's work. I always wondered how riggers spliced Dyneema and here is a video of this magic: https://youtu.be/UpkqJ4GRfSg

Bob, Where do you get all this info and experience, a young pup like you are. Very informative and helpful. This is a great post you made showing some of the shortcomings of the drum style. I had completely forgotten that there were hydraulic versions.
I had completedy forgotten about the Kellet and how testimonials for their use were so favorable. I'd think dyneema would benefit from such an item since it floats. That would be no matter which winch or windlass was chosen.
 
For anyone else wondering what I was talking about re: quick release anchor system.
https://www.riteanglefishing.com/produc ... ystem-6000
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=alnxr9itfVk

Theres other videos explaining and some variation to them. One thing I'll add is that the slide ring I added hose to it to avoid marking the hull and I also have a sock over the stern release snap for the same reason. An old wool sock that I can feel and open the release snap without fumbling the sock back/off.

And be sure when using a ball to retrieve, when you motor the anchor up, be sure that its up and the chain is through. Or else the anchor drops again lol. Ask me how I know, took me a few practices to get the hang of it in shallower water.
 
Wow. I've seen these on Kayaks I believe. You a regular sophisticate. 500 feet takes a long time no matter what method you're using. Pretty cool though. I see why drums interest you. I thing that the LS winch is about 130'/min. But when it's up, it's up, nothing else to do.

Punkin Drublic":1pr3wy20 said:
For anyone else wondering what I was talking about re: quick release anchor system.
https://www.riteanglefishing.com/produc ... ystem-6000
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=alnxr9itfVk

Theres other videos explaining and some variation to them. One thing I'll add is that the slide ring I added hose to it to avoid marking the hull and I also have a sock over the stern release snap for the same reason. An old wool sock that I can feel and open the release snap without fumbling the sock back/off.

And be sure when using a ball to retrieve, when you motor the anchor up, be sure that its up and the chain is through. Or else the anchor drops again lol. Ask me how I know, took me a few practices to get the hang of it in shallower water.
Click to expand...
 
Earlier, Thataway mentioned adding shock absorb to a drum winch.

A solution for long term/overnight anchoring would be a couple of prusiks, run a snubber between them with slack of the mainline.

Cons would having to tie on the prusiks on the bow and part of the purpose of the drum is to not need to go on the bow. I don't believe a prusik would work on flat rode. All that said, you could, should, have the prusiks pre-tied ready to go and could maybe keep the snubber line in the bow anchor storage.
 
The Prusik knot will not work on steel cable or the synthetic lines like Dyneema. These are too slippery for any constrictor knot, including the Taut Line Hitch or other hitches, unless you put a bight into the line---but even then, it will not hold well. Of course, with chain, you would use a chain hook/plate.
 
Kellet will work in light wind, and some waves, as will a heavy chain rode. When the wind gets to about 40 knots, the kellet or chain will not cause enough catenary to act as a shock absorber. I had a 40 lb lead pig with an eye bolt, that I drug around for years, and never found really effective, but I did have more conventional shock absorbing devices.
 
I'll figure it out. Ya know during the yrs I boated on the Barnegat with the 25 Macgregor (2500lbs), the Pierson Triton 7 or 8000 lbs and the 24'Carolina Skiff I never once wanted any type of snubber. Not sure these little 22's really need anything...but we'll see.

To that end, today I ordered the GX1 Drum winch and and the remote. Can't wait.....
 
Just for fun, I asked Grok (AI on X) about shock absorption on a steel cable anchor rode.

Adding shock absorption to a steel cable anchor rode is a great idea to reduce stress on your boat and its anchoring system, especially in heavy seas. Steel cable is strong but lacks elasticity, so it transmits shock loads directly to the boat and anchor. Here are some practical solutions to introduce shock absorption:

1. **Add a Nylon Snubber**:
Attach a length of nylon rope (e.g., 3-strand or double-braid) as a snubber to your steel cable. Nylon is elastic and stretches under load, absorbing shock. You can connect the snubber to the cable using a chain hook, a shackle, or a rolling hitch knot, then secure the other end to a strong cleat on your boat. A snubber length of 10-20 feet is typical, but adjust based on your boat size and conditions—longer snubbers provide more stretch.

2. **Use a Bridle System**:
For added stability and shock absorption, rig a bridle with two nylon lines attached to the steel cable at one end (via a hook or shackle) and to separate cleats on your boat (e.g., port and starboard). This distributes the load and dampens pitching motion in rough seas.

3. **Incorporate a Mooring Compensator**:
A rubber mooring compensator or shock absorber (like those used in mooring lines) can be spliced or attached inline with a short nylon snubber. These devices twist or stretch to absorb sudden jerks. Look for heavy-duty models rated for your boat’s displacement and the cable’s working load.

4. **Hybrid Rode Approach**:
If feasible, consider transitioning part of your rode to chain or rope near the boat end. For example, attach 20-50 feet of nylon rope between the steel cable and your boat, keeping the steel cable closer to the anchor. This adds elasticity where it’s most needed while retaining the cable’s abrasion resistance near the seabed.

5. **Check Fittings and Chafe Protection**:
Whatever method you choose, ensure all connection points (shackles, hooks, etc.) are rated for the load and inspect them regularly. Use chafe guards (like fire hose or tubular webbing) on nylon lines where they pass through fairleads or over the bow roller to prevent wear.

A simple and effective starting point is the nylon snubber—say, 5/8-inch diameter for a mid-sized boat (adjust for your vessel’s size)—since it’s affordable, easy to rig, and widely proven. In heavy seas, it’ll stretch to soak up the surges while your steel cable handles the static load. Experiment with length and thickness to find what works best for your setup.

Anything specific about your boat or conditions you’d like me to factor in?
 
I'll be using very long dyneema so none of this snubber ideas using nylon line would work. But I'm thinking that the rubber compensator might be something to play with. It's worth trying.
Ironically, the winch dealer didn't have any ideas either for me. Have you ever used the rubber compensators? I've only seen them on large boats.
 
Obviously AI has not anchored with a cable. What size boat uses 5/8" as a snubber? Most likely way beyond the pay grade of most C Dory owners. Clue, it would be in the super yacht size.
 
It's funny to hear you say that Bob, about 5/8", and it is most accurate, but funny. My only in-depth experiences in "line" is with synthetic Nylon...a very narrow field. I knew folks who logged with cable only (no chain) and I've heard of people anchoring with Spectra. My father's era was still Manila for all uses, farming, towing, anchoring, mooring and lifting, and the hawsers were huge. Most of us using Nylon migrate towards what feels well in hand as that is also closer to the required size as well.
If you go by tensile strength alone you will find that for a CD22 size boat that 3.5mm Dyneema is all that is required, 4-5mm for a CD25, but there are other concerns beyond tensile strength alone. Wear resistance, shear moment and elasticity are at least a few of the other concerns.

Nylon, probably and most comfortably, handles all concerns as it relates to boater's needs. The only shortcoming seems to be with capacity. One can't hardly dedicate enough space onboard to hold enough for all applications in rigging and anchoring ( I realize this an overstatement for many, I apologize, but stick with me). When you go online and peek around, at charts and ratings from anchoring equipment suppliers, you discover some very interesting data that most of us ignore, that is rode size and tensile strength in Nylon line. As I said above with nylon we tend to grab our new rodes from sizes that feel comfy in our hands. If we took that method for big ship mooring it would brake. If we took that method with Dyneema we couldn't afford it ($$$). So I figured out what was really needed to anchor my little 22 with Nylon and it is less than 3/8". I would not have chosen that size due to lack of comfort in hand. Also we tend to feel moor comfortable with knowing out lifeline is oversize.
So when AI starts talking 5/8....I was thinking 5/16 for Nylon Snubber. Still though. This is a discussion and I'm glad we're having it, even if Grok was off base this time.
I just ordered a drum winch. ( would you still call it a drum 'windlass'?) For the 22 the manufacturer recommends that the main rode be 4mm Dyneema, with 8 meters of 6 or 8 meters of Dyneema and then, at the end, 20' of 1/4" chain. With this schedule you can get a lot of line onto that drum. I'm not sure just exactly what I'll feel comfy using. So for now I'll just put some shorter 1/2" on it.
 
One can stow plenty of 8 plait line (1/2" is selected because it "hands" easily.) The "Oversize" is to allow for chafing.

400 feet of 5/8" three strand nylon what what we used on the Cal 46 along with 200 feet of 5/16 HT chain. Most of the time when you anchor only with the chain, it is easy to put the "chain hook" on.

In the C Dory 22 we have put 300 feet of 8 plait, plus the 50 feet of 1/4" HT chain. That is plenty of rode for the East coast and on the Alaska coast/PNW Coast, you can usually get the C Dory into shallower water, and don't always need to anchor in 100 feet of water.

It will be interesting to see how the drum windlass works out for you. How are you going to put a snubber on the Dyneema? It has zero elasticity for all practical use. (3% at breaking point). Vs Nylon (1/2", 3 strand: braking Strength 5670#, SWL: 473#. has ~ 20% at 1/2 of breaking strength. This is why the nylon is the choice of small boats. Once you are the "yacht size"-many have significant size length of chain. Many yachts, especially power use all chain.

22 the manufacturer recommends that the main rode be 4mm Dyneema, with 8 meters of 6 or 8 meters of Dyneema and then, at the end, 20' of 1/4" chain. With this schedule you can get a lot of line onto that drum.
Click to expand...
 
You ask great questions. My current main rode is a beautiful 195' x 1/2 8plait, I assume, with 6'x1/4"chain on the anchor. It looks untested and new. It belays very poorly out of that little deck pipe...whose idea was that? all knotted up and cranky-like as it laid for a long time in the chain locker since it was last used. Careless Idea that no arborist would have tried. Glad I pulled it all out to let it relax and dry.
For now I will put A shorter used line (1/2") onto the winch until the winch is full and that will have to do it for now. Probably only 75-100'
I'll figure out the Snubber issues.
You mention a term I'm not familiar with, it is "(3% at breaking point)". Is this referring to some sort of point load failure? Could you explain this?
 
3% elongation at breaking point. The % the material stretches when you are at breaking point. For example, I had a 45' racing boat in a partnership. One weekend the partner had an adverse wind full the spinnaker, and almost knocked the boat down on its beam as the wind changed direction and placed the spinnaker between the forestay and the mast. I saw that the rigging was slack on the upper stay port side from my apartment near the marina (with binoculars) when the boat was brought back into the marina. He had not realized that the 5/16 :: 1x19 cable had stretched about 5 inches--he was very lucky he did not loose the mast. We had the cable tested and it yielded (broke) at 12,500 lbs--the elongation was just before the cable would have broken. I don't have the calculations--but this is the same as the elongation--increased length due to the very high load. There was no elasticity, just yield and distortion.
 
Nothing to do with shear. Elongation is only length (and may reduce the diameter of any "cordage" as a side effect), Elongation is yield strength--but indirectly is also involved with elasticity--or the ability to recover the length after stretching.
 
Back
Top