Anchor bridle
- Thread starter larhayden
- Start date
I think you'd have to add fairleads if you wanted to put a bridle on a boat with only a center bow cleat. Chocks being fairleads that you place on the edge of the deck at the side points of the "diamond' that the bridle would form.
Here are photos of Thisaway (22) and Seaweed (25) showing added chocks for an anchor bridle (with a bridle being used in the photo). In this case cleats were used (so the bridle can terminate at the cleats if desired), although oftentimes fairlead/chocks are used (sort of U-shaped fingers), which allow the bridle to just slip through them and then continue on to the center cleat. Either works.
Here is a chock (fairlead) on JMR TOO:
If you are going to install either of these, I'd recommend mocking them up ahead of time. I noticed on my boat that I'd have to vary the position slightly port/starboard, due to original deck pipe, bow pulpit legs, etc.
Another possibility is using a single snubber lead from the bow eye and rolling hitched (or otherwise attached) to the main rode -- if you are comfortable that your bow eye is fairly strong. You can put the snubber "permanently" on the bow eye and then pull it up on deck and secure it there between uses (so you don't have to lean way over and try to clip it to the bow eye each time).
I've used single snubbers many times (other boats) when anchoring out and they worked fine (in this case 50' of nylon 3-strand, but it was a larger boat). You can hitch on another line and lead it to a midships cleat if you want to angle to waves, etc. in certain situations.
Here are photos of Thisaway (22) and Seaweed (25) showing added chocks for an anchor bridle (with a bridle being used in the photo). In this case cleats were used (so the bridle can terminate at the cleats if desired), although oftentimes fairlead/chocks are used (sort of U-shaped fingers), which allow the bridle to just slip through them and then continue on to the center cleat. Either works.
Here is a chock (fairlead) on JMR TOO:
If you are going to install either of these, I'd recommend mocking them up ahead of time. I noticed on my boat that I'd have to vary the position slightly port/starboard, due to original deck pipe, bow pulpit legs, etc.
Another possibility is using a single snubber lead from the bow eye and rolling hitched (or otherwise attached) to the main rode -- if you are comfortable that your bow eye is fairly strong. You can put the snubber "permanently" on the bow eye and then pull it up on deck and secure it there between uses (so you don't have to lean way over and try to clip it to the bow eye each time).
I've used single snubbers many times (other boats) when anchoring out and they worked fine (in this case 50' of nylon 3-strand, but it was a larger boat). You can hitch on another line and lead it to a midships cleat if you want to angle to waves, etc. in certain situations.
journey on
New member
I assume the reason to use a bridle is to set the boat at an angle to the anchor rode. I'm not sure you'd need this since I thought it's main use is in a swell, where the boat starts rocking and one would want a different boat angle. The Behm Canal and the small arms radiating from it have a number of protected anchorages. But if you want a bridle, use a rolling hitch on the anchor rode to attach a line, let the anchor rode out and take the line back to the aft cleat. Pull in or let out to set the boat at an angle to the anchor rode. I've never used a straight bridle just to anchor, though I can learn.
From what I remember of our trip through the Misty Fiords (also known as Behm Canal,), first it's a wonderful trip, next, somewhere in there is a totally restored tug with an Atlas engine, and if you exit the north arm of the Behm Canal, there's Meyers Chuck, a neat anchorage for a C-Dory. Since we weren't on a C-Dory, we went across the channel to Thorne Bay, which was one of the biggest logging operations in Alaska. Long before we got there, but still a nice town.
What I don't remember is any need to set a bridle. The anchor rode went right out the bow roller. We went into Rudyard Bay, where we anchored in 100', a record for us. We were warned to keep a short scope, since there was a shelf right next to the anchorage. So we set 2-1, 200', and depended on the chain to hold. Next morn, we saw a grizzly cruising the shelf looking for food. The rest of the anchorages were straightforward.
Boris
From what I remember of our trip through the Misty Fiords (also known as Behm Canal,), first it's a wonderful trip, next, somewhere in there is a totally restored tug with an Atlas engine, and if you exit the north arm of the Behm Canal, there's Meyers Chuck, a neat anchorage for a C-Dory. Since we weren't on a C-Dory, we went across the channel to Thorne Bay, which was one of the biggest logging operations in Alaska. Long before we got there, but still a nice town.
What I don't remember is any need to set a bridle. The anchor rode went right out the bow roller. We went into Rudyard Bay, where we anchored in 100', a record for us. We were warned to keep a short scope, since there was a shelf right next to the anchorage. So we set 2-1, 200', and depended on the chain to hold. Next morn, we saw a grizzly cruising the shelf looking for food. The rest of the anchorages were straightforward.
Boris
The problem with bow chocks is that they impart an acute bend for a bridle, and an area very subject to chafe. If you use chocks for a bridle, then have good chafing gear, and check it often.
A bridle is not always necessary, and I happen to use it because it is the best way to set snubbers, with no or minimal chafe.
I don't see any particular reason for any different rig in the Misty Fjords area. We have visited this area several times.
We currently have 350' of rode on the C Dory 22, so that would give us close to 3:1 in 100 feet. On larger boats we had 200 feet of chain, and 400 feet of line, so we were fairly well fixed for 100 feet of anchoring depth.
A bridle is not always necessary, and I happen to use it because it is the best way to set snubbers, with no or minimal chafe.
I don't see any particular reason for any different rig in the Misty Fjords area. We have visited this area several times.
We currently have 350' of rode on the C Dory 22, so that would give us close to 3:1 in 100 feet. On larger boats we had 200 feet of chain, and 400 feet of line, so we were fairly well fixed for 100 feet of anchoring depth.
I have about 600' of rode/chain and frequently use it all. I never use a bridle.
I'm not sure why the OP has come to the determination that he needs a bridle. I don't agree. With the sea state and tides driving pretty powerful currents near Ketchikan a few things spring to mind about anchoring. For example when wind direction and current don't agree and you get some pretty rolly steep water with you boat laying abeam to the waves, that is not comfy, but I don't think a bridle would help much.
The other issue is sailing on anchor, which has been discussed in the anchoring section ad infinitum.
If sailing is the issue, an option is to put out a drogue, sea anchor, 5 gallon bucket, etc off the stern and the boat will get pulled with the current. Now if that puts you stern to the waves, no good, but if it puts you bow to the waves, you will be much more comfortable.
I'm not sure why the OP has come to the determination that he needs a bridle. I don't agree. With the sea state and tides driving pretty powerful currents near Ketchikan a few things spring to mind about anchoring. For example when wind direction and current don't agree and you get some pretty rolly steep water with you boat laying abeam to the waves, that is not comfy, but I don't think a bridle would help much.
The other issue is sailing on anchor, which has been discussed in the anchoring section ad infinitum.
If sailing is the issue, an option is to put out a drogue, sea anchor, 5 gallon bucket, etc off the stern and the boat will get pulled with the current. Now if that puts you stern to the waves, no good, but if it puts you bow to the waves, you will be much more comfortable.
I wonder if what the original poster was getting at was actually the need to have a fair lead for a snubber, vs. riding to the anchor rode just coming up over the roller and/or onto the windlass.
I found that on my 22 it is a little bit of a challenge to get this set up, and a bridle was one of my potential options. But the main thing was just to have a good anchoring setup vis-a-vis fair lead/snubbing/securing the anchor rode when at anchor.
I've seen quite a few boats (of all types) which have only been on small lakes or day tripping that (rightfully) don't really have a good way to secure the anchor rode when anchored. If that is the OP's actual concern, then a bridle would just be one way to address it.
I found that on my 22 it is a little bit of a challenge to get this set up, and a bridle was one of my potential options. But the main thing was just to have a good anchoring setup vis-a-vis fair lead/snubbing/securing the anchor rode when at anchor.
I've seen quite a few boats (of all types) which have only been on small lakes or day tripping that (rightfully) don't really have a good way to secure the anchor rode when anchored. If that is the OP's actual concern, then a bridle would just be one way to address it.
I have a hunch the original poster is looking at the usual cruising boats there which will likely be using all chain with a bridle of nylon to stop the noise and jerk of all chain rodes
I've never seen a need for a bridle or chocks for that matter on these boats
If I start to see us shearing around excessively as say in a strong beeze, I use the bow mooring line that is attached almost permanently to the bow eye fitting that is used when trailering, we use it in mooring also, so it's usually on already
Arguably the strongest thing on the boat!
I take the 15 ft dockline, clap a rolling hitch to the anchor rode and take the strain on this line
It is therby anchoring the boat by a fitting only a foot or so above the waterline cutting surging and sailing about dramatically
I leave the rode attached in the normal way ie a small line to the bow cleat on the rode to the windlass, keeping loads off the windlass
Simple, no gear and no holes, just my style!
George :thup
I've never seen a need for a bridle or chocks for that matter on these boats
If I start to see us shearing around excessively as say in a strong beeze, I use the bow mooring line that is attached almost permanently to the bow eye fitting that is used when trailering, we use it in mooring also, so it's usually on already
Arguably the strongest thing on the boat!
I take the 15 ft dockline, clap a rolling hitch to the anchor rode and take the strain on this line
It is therby anchoring the boat by a fitting only a foot or so above the waterline cutting surging and sailing about dramatically
I leave the rode attached in the normal way ie a small line to the bow cleat on the rode to the windlass, keeping loads off the windlass
Simple, no gear and no holes, just my style!
George :thup
I met the original poster here in Petersburg today, as Larry, his wife Christine & there two friends & traveling companions are only a couple spaces down from us at the Petersburg, North Harbor docks. Jolee & I had a very good conversation with them with enough to know they are really enjoying this adventure & have wonderful attitudes about it. Sunday night there could likely be a three boat C-Dory Gathering in Thomas Bay.
To me like others have posted his anchor bridle concerns are mostly a non issue, but when looking at his very well equipped boat, the anchor itself more the concern. It's a 16 lb. claw type & I consider that very marginal up here for a 25 foot C-Dory that's very heavily loaded.
Jay
To me like others have posted his anchor bridle concerns are mostly a non issue, but when looking at his very well equipped boat, the anchor itself more the concern. It's a 16 lb. claw type & I consider that very marginal up here for a 25 foot C-Dory that's very heavily loaded.
Jay
Thanks to all. It is great to meet with other cbrats underway. We are taking studious council. Thanks to huckydory and Brazo. Appreciate all the help that we eastern cruisers need for pacific waters. Love seeing c-dory(s) and crew. Thanks for the advice in real time. We have 200 ft of chain, so we plan to have about 50 ft of nylon line from chain to center cleat and see how it works for shoch absorption in Thomas bay. We passed on misty fiords due to weather but plan to hit it on the way back. Other recommendations are welcome- we will give back if you come east!! Again, thanks for helping making this a great cruise.
With 200 feet of chain, you always need some type of snubber. The bridle is a good idea.
What are you using to attach the snubber to chain? Simple is rolling hitch, more sophisticated is a slotted SS plate, with one hole on each side, to allow a shackle to be attached with a spliced eye, thimble on the snubber line.
What are you using to attach the snubber to chain? Simple is rolling hitch, more sophisticated is a slotted SS plate, with one hole on each side, to allow a shackle to be attached with a spliced eye, thimble on the snubber line.
I have also used the simple galvanized chain hook, but the SS plate is better in my experience for several reasons:
It allows two snubbers at the same point. Especially on larger boats, (all chain--and we have all chain in this C Dory 25), one thin snubber, which has more elasticity, and a second one backing it up, if the first fails. I had one fail in over 8 years of full time cruising, anchoring most nights.
It allows to easily mouse the plate to the chain--a chain hook also allows the line to be moused: for illustration only, this is not a chain hook, but similar.
chain hook:
A SS plate (you can also put two small additional holes for mousing--but the plate is less likely to fall off the chain. I have had the chain hook fall off on several occasions.
While on the subject, some like a "Devil's claw"
I agree that you should use a thimble and spliced attachment. Every galvanized chain hook I acquired did rust. Chain had to be re-galvanized every 2 to 3 years. Chains were reversed end for end at least once a year, and were 200 feet long. 80% of the time I anchored on chain only, and did not have to go to the back up line. Attach a snubber, or snubbers to a line--a rolling hitch, as illustrated in the photos previously posted.
When we are on the subject, there is the classic question about size of the shackle--since we are using HT chain, and HT shackles are hard to come by, and not usually well galvanized. I am using the SS Wichard HR Bow Shackle. If you really felt that this was not adequate, then there is the option of Titanium…for about $400! I'll take my chances! (and stand an anchor watch)
It allows two snubbers at the same point. Especially on larger boats, (all chain--and we have all chain in this C Dory 25), one thin snubber, which has more elasticity, and a second one backing it up, if the first fails. I had one fail in over 8 years of full time cruising, anchoring most nights.
It allows to easily mouse the plate to the chain--a chain hook also allows the line to be moused: for illustration only, this is not a chain hook, but similar.
chain hook:
A SS plate (you can also put two small additional holes for mousing--but the plate is less likely to fall off the chain. I have had the chain hook fall off on several occasions.
While on the subject, some like a "Devil's claw"
I agree that you should use a thimble and spliced attachment. Every galvanized chain hook I acquired did rust. Chain had to be re-galvanized every 2 to 3 years. Chains were reversed end for end at least once a year, and were 200 feet long. 80% of the time I anchored on chain only, and did not have to go to the back up line. Attach a snubber, or snubbers to a line--a rolling hitch, as illustrated in the photos previously posted.
When we are on the subject, there is the classic question about size of the shackle--since we are using HT chain, and HT shackles are hard to come by, and not usually well galvanized. I am using the SS Wichard HR Bow Shackle. If you really felt that this was not adequate, then there is the option of Titanium…for about $400! I'll take my chances! (and stand an anchor watch)
Man, I thought I had a lot of chain!!!
Yes, with that much chain, a bridle, snubber, or some sort of means of dampening the action of the boat on the rode would be good.
That is not the most conventional anchor rode for this type of boat. Is this the rode you use on the east coast, or something that you put together for this trip.
Yes, with that much chain, a bridle, snubber, or some sort of means of dampening the action of the boat on the rode would be good.
That is not the most conventional anchor rode for this type of boat. Is this the rode you use on the east coast, or something that you put together for this trip.
I think this is a pretty common "east coast" setup that was largely driven by one or two dealers who felt the boat needs more weight in the bow. My Tomcat came rigged with 200' of all chain rode also. I rarely anchor and haven't felt the need to change it out but I wouldn't have set up the Tomcat (or a 22') that way at the outset.Kushtaka":30bsyj44 said:
Stainless is certainly more attractive. To that end I found the following company, http://www.stainlesschain.com/stainless-chain-hardware.
With any of these gizmos, bridles are not foolproof. you must keep the load on them. If you set them to long, the tide falls and turns direction, and the gizmo drags on the bottom, it will come unhooked. Per Bob's input, when in doubt...mouse.
For these little boats, I would think the reliable rolling hitch would be the answer. It is almost impossible to drop the chain, even when slack, and all that is required is a piece of stretchy nylon.
With any of these gizmos, bridles are not foolproof. you must keep the load on them. If you set them to long, the tide falls and turns direction, and the gizmo drags on the bottom, it will come unhooked. Per Bob's input, when in doubt...mouse.
For these little boats, I would think the reliable rolling hitch would be the answer. It is almost impossible to drop the chain, even when slack, and all that is required is a piece of stretchy nylon.