It looks like we'll need to replace the batteries in our 22' cruiser next season, and we've been thinking of going with AGM's. Specifically, we're interested in the Lifeline group 24. We run one starting battery and one house battery with a voltage sensitive relay. Does anyone have any words of wisdom regarding the change over to AGM's, and whether the Lifeline is a good battery? Also, I recently read that the charge protocol for AGM batteries requires an other than stock alternator. Would the alternator in my Honda 90 charge AGM's appropriately? Any insight would be appreciated.
AGM batteries
- Thread starter Boomer
- Start date
It's been said if you have a need to mount a battery in the cabin, or if your application requires you to mount it on it's side or mount it in a way you could not with standard acid filled battery than an AGM is for you. If you have a standard installation lead core acid batteries are just as cost effective as AGM batteries. I thought about AGM batteries and have decided to stay with standard batteries. I'm not sure if your standard alternator would have an issue but I have heard some alternators have isssues charging them. For me that's enough evidence to get me at least to stay with a standard acid filled batteries. I'm sure someone else will jump in on the charging issue.
D.D.
D.D.
If you need the special features of the AGM batteries, fine, but I prefer flooded lead-acid deep cycle batteries for their much less expensive initial cost and much greater performance per dollar per amp-hour supplied.
If possible, save the money for other improvements that make a difference you can see and use.
E.G., why run aviation fuel bought at a floating marina for $8/gallon in your dinghy outboard? Same idea/difference!
Joe. :teeth :thup
If possible, save the money for other improvements that make a difference you can see and use.
E.G., why run aviation fuel bought at a floating marina for $8/gallon in your dinghy outboard? Same idea/difference!
Joe. :teeth :thup
Joe, you & Dave may be right, but for my set up, I prefer them & think they're worth the little extra.
Bought AGM's six years ago to replace the flooded. Will replace them this spring before returning to Alaska with another set of group 24 AGM from Cabelas.
I switch back & forth between batteries for house & starting. Like the ability of the AGM to be cycled from a very low charge to high without affecting the battery life & their cranking power is as good or better then the old flooded group 24.
Take a look. http://www.cabelas.com/marine-deep-cycl ... ries.shtml
Jay
Bought AGM's six years ago to replace the flooded. Will replace them this spring before returning to Alaska with another set of group 24 AGM from Cabelas.
I switch back & forth between batteries for house & starting. Like the ability of the AGM to be cycled from a very low charge to high without affecting the battery life & their cranking power is as good or better then the old flooded group 24.
Take a look. http://www.cabelas.com/marine-deep-cycl ... ries.shtml
Jay
jkidd
Active member
My last boat had flooded batteries. I got 6 years out of them an sold the boat with them in it. I think the number one reason flooded batteries fail is poor maintenance if your a stickler about keeping the water levels right they will last a long time. Just ask the battery shops. There are many reason AGM's are better than flooded. They can mounted in any position, they don't spill, they don't leak, they charge faster, they only dissipate 1percent per month, this one means you can charge them once every 3 month in the winter and they won't freeze so if your in a cold environment flooded would freeze and ruin the batteries. You don't have add water so no maintenance. So if you buy flooded batteries and don't maintain them and only get half there useful life they weren't a good deal. Here's a link to a story not about boats but about flooded over AGM's much bigger scale.
http://www.wagonmaker.com/newbatt.html
http://www.wagonmaker.com/newbatt.html
Christopher-Robyn
New member
Unless things have changed in the last year or so, AGMs and Yamaha 4-stroke fuel injected engines don't get along. The Yamaha charging rate is unsuited for the AGM battery.
Paul K
Paul K
jkidd
Active member
Christopher-Robyn":2xgk3o3o said:
When I talked to The charger company about setting up my charger for the AGM's they told me to use the same setting as flooded. If the charger company says they treat flooded and AGM the same what's up with Yamaha? Paul do you have more information about what was happening?
Christopher-Robyn
New member
When I originally had my 16 Angler rigged with a Yamaha 50 HP fuel-Injected 4-Stroke engine, I really wanted to avoid using a lead-acid battery if possible. I had many years of grief using lead-acid batteries in flat track/TT motorcycle racing. The Yamaha dealer in Ventura, CA strongly advised me against using an AGM with that engine. If I remember, the charging rate of the Yamaha alternator would greatly reduce the longevity of the AGM battery. I don't remember if the charging rate was too high or too low. Hope this helps!
Paul K
Paul K
I didn't know anything about the Yamaha issues but our Honda 90s charge up our two group 31 AGMs plus top off the starting flooded batteries without any trouble through a VSR. We used AGMs mainly because they are mounted in the cabin with us but after experience with that set plus another optima deep cycle and another AGM unit in a motorcycle and a couple of smaller units for other geeky tasks, I will never buy another flooded battery for a vehicle.
They take a charge faster, give it up faster, are nearly immune to vibration damage, and can be mounted in clever ways to save space plus they can sit for months with minimal loss of voltage (not that I recommend that). They do have some slightly different charging requirements but I would say the details most important fot the long term and not for a simple re-charge.
Greg
They take a charge faster, give it up faster, are nearly immune to vibration damage, and can be mounted in clever ways to save space plus they can sit for months with minimal loss of voltage (not that I recommend that). They do have some slightly different charging requirements but I would say the details most important fot the long term and not for a simple re-charge.
Greg
If you've ever blown up a battery at close range, you'll appreciate the safety an AGM affords! Thus, when I needed a stand alone battery for the pot puller, a group 27 lifeline was mounted under the galley cabinet. It's 65 lbs offset the 65 lb weight of the line hauler mounted on the other side.
As to the charging, I may not have it right; but it's worked for many years. I simply installed a second battery switch in line BEFORE the one that came on my boat. When I need to charge the lifeline I turn the main switch off and the lifeline on. The hauler uses a fair amount of juice so I like to give it an hour or so of "run" (charge) time every day.
Probably all screwed up from an electrical point of view but there's no arguing that it works and is simple! (Honda 150)
Martin
As to the charging, I may not have it right; but it's worked for many years. I simply installed a second battery switch in line BEFORE the one that came on my boat. When I need to charge the lifeline I turn the main switch off and the lifeline on. The hauler uses a fair amount of juice so I like to give it an hour or so of "run" (charge) time every day.
Probably all screwed up from an electrical point of view but there's no arguing that it works and is simple! (Honda 150)
Martin
As mentioned before my present AGM's have been in the boat for 6 seasons without doing anything to them other them cleaning terminals. Boat is generally out of the water for eight months during the off seasons in temperatures approaching -40 with only recharging them a couple times. On the water they are charged by the twin Honda's & the built in Guest Charger that I connect either to shore power or my Honda 2000 generator. The Honda's only put out 10 amps per motor & in Southeast Alaska we spend most of the cruise time on one motor & didn't have to use the Honda Generator or shore power at all during our just shy of two months cruise in 2010. Think that speaks well for the deep cycle capability & doubt it would have worked out so well with my old group 24 flooded.
The AGM's are still holding a charge fine now & wouldn't be replacing them Now if not going back to remote boating in Alaska next year where eliminating as many potential problems as possible is in order.
Jay
The AGM's are still holding a charge fine now & wouldn't be replacing them Now if not going back to remote boating in Alaska next year where eliminating as many potential problems as possible is in order.
Jay
I had the factory (Reynolds) install Exide Blue Top group 24 AGM batteries when Discovery was new. They lasted less than 2 years and were replaced with wet cell lead/acid batteries which have been going strong for more than 4 years. I have an automatic two bank, 10 amp battery charger, and its plugged in 24/7 when the boat is off the water. I also have a 2002 Tracker bass boat that has the same charger set up. Those batteries ( wet cell group 27's ) have been in the Tracker since 2002 and are still holding a charge fine. They are also on the charger 24/7 and have been for over 9 years. Keep the water level full and use a quality automatic charger that reverts to float when the battery is charged. A good charger will cost $200 or more but in the long run will save money on batteries being replaced less often.
Brent
Brent
Matt Gurnsey
New member
Yamaha advises against using AGM batteries in their owner's manuals.
This AGM vs. Flooded Conventional Batteries discussion is getting good!
Probably won't ever replace the Single vs. Twins discussion for total volume, but will go on for a loooong time........................!!!
I'm waiting for Dr. Bob / Thataway to weigh in!
I'm on the Conventional Flooded Lead-Acid Batteries side (unless AGM's are specifically called for), and that's my story, and I'm sticklin' to it! :lol:
Joe. :teeth :thup
Probably won't ever replace the Single vs. Twins discussion for total volume, but will go on for a loooong time........................!!!
I'm waiting for Dr. Bob / Thataway to weigh in!
I'm on the Conventional Flooded Lead-Acid Batteries side (unless AGM's are specifically called for), and that's my story, and I'm sticklin' to it! :lol:
Joe. :teeth :thup
We're in the AGM camp :wink: Our 2006 TC was ordered with 2 Optima Blue Top start batteries. One of them is weak at times after 5 seasons. Our house batteries are Lifeline AGM 8-Ds. 150 pounds each and 270 Amp Hours each. They are charged by the engine alternators underway with a BlueSeas ACM. At shore, the 80 amp charger in the Outback 2000w Inverter gets them up to max really fast. They then float charge. They have been on float every day since new when we're not aboard. The Lifelines are performing like new. Fingers crossed as the set was over $900 with tax! :shock:
Sea Wolf":1if1w905 said:This AGM vs. Flooded Conventional Batteries discussion is getting good!
Probably won't ever replace the Single vs. Twins discussion for total volume, but will go on for a loooong time........................!!!
I'm waiting for Dr. Bob / Thataway to weigh in!
I'm on the Conventional Flooded Lead-Acid Batteries side (unless AGM's are specifically called for), and that's my story, and I'm sticklin' to it! :lol:
Joe. :teeth :thup
Joe, I like your post & was thinking the same except with an opposite view even looking down the barrels of those big pistols. :lol:
Me thinks folks like Jay and Jolee are heap big smart using those AGM batteries. They travel to far away places with no shore power. Their engines have fairly small alternators which for their style of exploring probably causes them to pull down on the batteries charge a little more than the average boater. Our Yamaha's alternator which I think puts out about 35 amps might be what kills or shortenens the life of the AGM's by charging them too fast. With normal life of a acid flooded battery being about 5 years I'll take my chances with them. I've taken steps to reduce the electrical load on our boat by ditching the refridgerator for a cooler, saying no to a freezer, or microwave, switching to all LED lighting including our anchor light. Cooking with butane or propane on a grill. I like the price of the regular flooded acid type and they are available locally with out having to be freighted in. There are a couple things that hurt the life of a flooded acid battery that i try to avoid doing. Running them down completely dead once and they will never be the same. As others have said keeping them maintained with a charge and keeping the acid levels where they need to be is paramount. I leave my batteries on charge thru our boats charger via shore power cord plugged into out house whenever we are not traveling or using the boat away from home. I leave the boat like that with a heater in the cabin all winter. In springtime I add some distilled water to top off the batteries which are not all that low on acid. On my fourth year I plan on replacing one of my two batteries and the second the following year. Typically for my way of thinking if a battery needs water constantly it's not holding a charge and the constant recharging is what causes the acid levels to drop faster than normal. For the price difference on two I could carry a spare and still be ahead.
D.D.
D.D.