Les Lampman
New member
CW":5eax7csd said:
So why wouldn't an 8.5' wide boat be better yet or one that had a true self-bailing deck?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
22' Cruiser vs 23' Venture
- Thread starter Will-C
- Start date
So why wouldn't an 8.5' wide boat be better yet or one that had a true self-bailing deck?
Spencer (Flapbreaker)--thank you for pointing out an error---and I appologize for it--I was called to dinner, when I was half way thru the post and didn't finish the thought. I have edited the post. We do NOT tow the CD 25 with the pilot. I am modifying the 30 foot RV (which has the rating to tow an additional 3,000 lbs, after having gone over the frame hitch upgrades with a tow specialist and putting in a different torque converter, an extra gear in the tranny, more cooling and a trany temp gear. We also have tires which are adequate for increased hitch weight, made sure that axel specs were not exceeded and are using an Equalizer hitch. You are absolutely correct that the CD 25 even at a light 6500 lbs would be too much for the Pilot, or any small SUV. My son tows it short distances with his Ford Explorer--which is rated for 7500 lbs. (C Dory light was 5500 lbs on the trailer--no fuel, no cushions etc). On the trailer it was 6500, plus an additional 650 lbs tongue weight.
CW, if the wind driven waves against against current, is a potential problem, then use two anchors--to put the bow into the wind--and stern into current. But then, if the waves are to the point that there is danger of getting water into the Cockpit of a CD 22, you probably need to be in sheltered areas, not anchored. My experience is that it takes some mighty good sized seas to get water into the cockpit--Is there any documented case of a C Dory swamping from water coming over the stern? (unles some one did something real dumb, like anchoring with the waves so that they are breaking over the stern).
flapbreaker
New member
Bob, thanks for clarification on the Honda Pilot. I was beginning to think there was something wrong with my Ford. Couldn't imagine towing the 25 with it. LOL
The only time I've taken water over the stern is when I'm halibut fishing and backing into the current. I've never felt uncomftable with it as it's a controlled situation. It's important for any captain to understand the water conditions and plan appropriately.
The only time I've taken water over the stern is when I'm halibut fishing and backing into the current. I've never felt uncomftable with it as it's a controlled situation. It's important for any captain to understand the water conditions and plan appropriately.
Bob,
you don't anchor stern pointing upstream in the Columbia. Boats get sucked under every year by guys trying to pull their anchor with buoy puller system stupidly tied off from the stern instead of from their bow OR they accidentally get their anchor line wrapped around a stern cleat. The boat spins and goes under in seconds. Starcraft Tom has a horror story he shared with me about a friend of his in a boat like mine that was amazing and resulted in a lost-forever corpse of the guy's father.
Also, I readily defer to your (and most everyone else's experience here) with anchoring while cruising. I am learning about this. Sounds like Delta is a winner. But I do know about anchoring in 60 ft. of water in the fast flowing Columbia for fishing and it is a different and highly specialized game. Danforths don't work at this... maybe it is the current flowing rapidly over them that exposes them? Maybe it is the rock, clay broken bottom? Loose sand? Anchors are frequently lost, so maybe that accounts for the popularity of the welded homespun types. (We also have a plethora of welders in Cowlitz Co. --working men).
Folks also don't power set here. The game requires you to drop your anchor inbetween two other guy's anchors and to slowly feed line out, backing down in the current, splitting a gap in a hogline (row of boats perpendicular to shore) between two other boats which may just be 10 - 20 ft. apart and 275 ft. away downstream, often in the dark. Not only must the anchor hold, but your boat must be centered between the ones alongside and your stern must also be dead even with theirs. Inches matter. Power dragging into another guys' boat is bad form. If the tide is outgoing it can be ripping fast. If it is incoming then the motors must be used which can be hard to direct while keeping bow properly oriented to where the anchor will lie once the tide turns. It is easy to wrap your boat around another guy's bow at this point. -- makes for fussy neighbors - who will be fishing just a few feet away for the day. Then, when a fish is hooked, you have to be able to completely release from your anchor line and buoy quickly to allow you to fight your fish away from their back-bounced fishing lines which run hundreds of feet back behind all of the boats. This minimizes losing salmon. And since you might only get one or two chances per day in August (or per week in April) you want to maximize the success rate. Once clear of their lines, you pull in your sea anchors (employed to keep you true to current regardless of wind direction) engage your kicker motor and either head out deeper to the crowded shipping channel or towards the bank and the perilous wing-dams - slowly, while fighting your large salmon. This is where an electric start helps - quick, easy, one handed. Once done with the fish, you fire up one of the motors, grab the boat hook and head upstream to the gap in the hogline, now reserved by your buoy and floating line. You have to avoid their fishing lines again, split the gap perfectly, re-grab the polyethylene line and reattach to boat. Sea Anchors go back out. Lines go into water. Photo gets taken, Fish gets cleaned and then you can "relax" again, checking occasionally upstream for logs that could pull your entire boat under by riding up your anchor line. Piece of cake. I usually fish alone except for the dog, and he's not much help with the lines. I'd love to show you how we do it sometime. C.W.
you don't anchor stern pointing upstream in the Columbia. Boats get sucked under every year by guys trying to pull their anchor with buoy puller system stupidly tied off from the stern instead of from their bow OR they accidentally get their anchor line wrapped around a stern cleat. The boat spins and goes under in seconds. Starcraft Tom has a horror story he shared with me about a friend of his in a boat like mine that was amazing and resulted in a lost-forever corpse of the guy's father.
Also, I readily defer to your (and most everyone else's experience here) with anchoring while cruising. I am learning about this. Sounds like Delta is a winner. But I do know about anchoring in 60 ft. of water in the fast flowing Columbia for fishing and it is a different and highly specialized game. Danforths don't work at this... maybe it is the current flowing rapidly over them that exposes them? Maybe it is the rock, clay broken bottom? Loose sand? Anchors are frequently lost, so maybe that accounts for the popularity of the welded homespun types. (We also have a plethora of welders in Cowlitz Co. --working men).
Folks also don't power set here. The game requires you to drop your anchor inbetween two other guy's anchors and to slowly feed line out, backing down in the current, splitting a gap in a hogline (row of boats perpendicular to shore) between two other boats which may just be 10 - 20 ft. apart and 275 ft. away downstream, often in the dark. Not only must the anchor hold, but your boat must be centered between the ones alongside and your stern must also be dead even with theirs. Inches matter. Power dragging into another guys' boat is bad form. If the tide is outgoing it can be ripping fast. If it is incoming then the motors must be used which can be hard to direct while keeping bow properly oriented to where the anchor will lie once the tide turns. It is easy to wrap your boat around another guy's bow at this point. -- makes for fussy neighbors - who will be fishing just a few feet away for the day. Then, when a fish is hooked, you have to be able to completely release from your anchor line and buoy quickly to allow you to fight your fish away from their back-bounced fishing lines which run hundreds of feet back behind all of the boats. This minimizes losing salmon. And since you might only get one or two chances per day in August (or per week in April) you want to maximize the success rate. Once clear of their lines, you pull in your sea anchors (employed to keep you true to current regardless of wind direction) engage your kicker motor and either head out deeper to the crowded shipping channel or towards the bank and the perilous wing-dams - slowly, while fighting your large salmon. This is where an electric start helps - quick, easy, one handed. Once done with the fish, you fire up one of the motors, grab the boat hook and head upstream to the gap in the hogline, now reserved by your buoy and floating line. You have to avoid their fishing lines again, split the gap perfectly, re-grab the polyethylene line and reattach to boat. Sea Anchors go back out. Lines go into water. Photo gets taken, Fish gets cleaned and then you can "relax" again, checking occasionally upstream for logs that could pull your entire boat under by riding up your anchor line. Piece of cake. I usually fish alone except for the dog, and he's not much help with the lines. I'd love to show you how we do it sometime. C.W.
CW,
Thanks for the clarification about anchoring conditions in the Columbia River. I have only gone up a few miles up the river in my boats, and driven up and down the Gorge several times.
You must be hooking into rocks or some debris in the bottom to get these types of anchors to hold in significant current/wind. I agree that a Danforth would not be a good anchor in these conditions at all. The Danforth and Fortress have to sit on the bottom, and then be coaxed into the bottom. It sounds like in these type of conditions that a double ended boat would be the best "solution". But I can see where the concern is about the open splash well. I have run splash well boats in some pretty rough conditions and only once got significant water aboard--and that was in about 6 foot steep seas, and I wasn't paying attention when pulling alongside a boat whose dinghy had broken loose and we were searching for it. How fast is the current in the part of the Columbia where you anchor like this? What part of the Columbia is this? I have a number of friends who have gone up the Columbia River (one as far as Lewiston) and several of those could only do 6.5 knots--so I assumed that the current was not more than a knot or so.
Thanks for the clarification about anchoring conditions in the Columbia River. I have only gone up a few miles up the river in my boats, and driven up and down the Gorge several times.
You must be hooking into rocks or some debris in the bottom to get these types of anchors to hold in significant current/wind. I agree that a Danforth would not be a good anchor in these conditions at all. The Danforth and Fortress have to sit on the bottom, and then be coaxed into the bottom. It sounds like in these type of conditions that a double ended boat would be the best "solution". But I can see where the concern is about the open splash well. I have run splash well boats in some pretty rough conditions and only once got significant water aboard--and that was in about 6 foot steep seas, and I wasn't paying attention when pulling alongside a boat whose dinghy had broken loose and we were searching for it. How fast is the current in the part of the Columbia where you anchor like this? What part of the Columbia is this? I have a number of friends who have gone up the Columbia River (one as far as Lewiston) and several of those could only do 6.5 knots--so I assumed that the current was not more than a knot or so.
Les,
you're a perceptive guy, much like I've heard from so many here. I DO want a self bailing deck, four stroke outboard, good hull in a variety of water, and room to fish at least four guys/gals off of the stern. We want a galley and a full head is not required. Heat would be nice. As nice as the 22 Cruiser is for couples or three, I have a larger group and am seriously boat shopping. I need to talk to you about my boating situation, needs and where I'd like to go from here. I have a great fishing boat (see photos of 23 ft. 1991 aluminum Thunderjet "Maxim" model with 460 Ford inboard) but my wife wants to get more into cruising since we both have the summers off (educators) and want to cruise the San Juans and B.C. more, as well as fish the Columbia river in hog lines with the anchoring challenges that requires. I bought my boat thinking I needed a jet pump and would fish the nearby Cowlitz and Lewis Rivers..... I don't. I fish "deep" water (read as 7 ft. or deeper) and so don't need the jet and am disillusioned with the maintenance a big inboard jet requires. I am attracted to the idea of fishing tuna some 35 miles offshore in the Pacific. I have covered moorage in Kalama for a 25 ft. or less boat. C.W.
you're a perceptive guy, much like I've heard from so many here. I DO want a self bailing deck, four stroke outboard, good hull in a variety of water, and room to fish at least four guys/gals off of the stern. We want a galley and a full head is not required. Heat would be nice. As nice as the 22 Cruiser is for couples or three, I have a larger group and am seriously boat shopping. I need to talk to you about my boating situation, needs and where I'd like to go from here. I have a great fishing boat (see photos of 23 ft. 1991 aluminum Thunderjet "Maxim" model with 460 Ford inboard) but my wife wants to get more into cruising since we both have the summers off (educators) and want to cruise the San Juans and B.C. more, as well as fish the Columbia river in hog lines with the anchoring challenges that requires. I bought my boat thinking I needed a jet pump and would fish the nearby Cowlitz and Lewis Rivers..... I don't. I fish "deep" water (read as 7 ft. or deeper) and so don't need the jet and am disillusioned with the maintenance a big inboard jet requires. I am attracted to the idea of fishing tuna some 35 miles offshore in the Pacific. I have covered moorage in Kalama for a 25 ft. or less boat. C.W.
Bob,
The current runs slower here around Kalama (about 35 miles downstream from Portland, OR) at about 3-6 mph. than it does upstream just below Bonneville Dam or lower down in the estuary by Astoria when the tide is ripping right.... there I don't know the speed (the little wheel that measures current broke off of my transducer bracket, but my 7.5 horse Johnson would NOT hold the light 18 ft. homemade flat bottom jetsled I used to own in place at full throttle one morning in the estuary down by a town called Chinook - just downstream of the Astoria - Megler bridge. I know at times, my 95 lb. prime condition chocolate lab can BARELY make it back to the boat swimming as fast as he can here at Kalama. In the two other locations mentioned, he would not be able to.
People do fish around here in the open splashwell C-Dorys. I would just appreciate having the higher transom of the 23 Venture. I've shipped some wave tops over the back of my stern before while anchored and it is straight across and has similar freeboard to the 23 Venture.
Somewhere ( a different thread maybe) someone asked about using buoys and anchor pullers. Like most people around here, I use an Anchorlift by Ironwood Pacific with either their 16 or 18" buoy attached. It cost something like $72 at the time. It is the most popular model and I'd suggest using a big buoy, not the smallest rated for a particular anchor. In low light, you want the ones you and other boaters can see at a fair distance. The buoy can also be used as a backup fender along docks as needed. Here is their website with diagrams, photos, prices and a great video that shows it being used in action. C.W. http://www.ironwoodpacific.com/products/anchoring_mooring/anchorlift.htm
The current runs slower here around Kalama (about 35 miles downstream from Portland, OR) at about 3-6 mph. than it does upstream just below Bonneville Dam or lower down in the estuary by Astoria when the tide is ripping right.... there I don't know the speed (the little wheel that measures current broke off of my transducer bracket, but my 7.5 horse Johnson would NOT hold the light 18 ft. homemade flat bottom jetsled I used to own in place at full throttle one morning in the estuary down by a town called Chinook - just downstream of the Astoria - Megler bridge. I know at times, my 95 lb. prime condition chocolate lab can BARELY make it back to the boat swimming as fast as he can here at Kalama. In the two other locations mentioned, he would not be able to.
People do fish around here in the open splashwell C-Dorys. I would just appreciate having the higher transom of the 23 Venture. I've shipped some wave tops over the back of my stern before while anchored and it is straight across and has similar freeboard to the 23 Venture.
Somewhere ( a different thread maybe) someone asked about using buoys and anchor pullers. Like most people around here, I use an Anchorlift by Ironwood Pacific with either their 16 or 18" buoy attached. It cost something like $72 at the time. It is the most popular model and I'd suggest using a big buoy, not the smallest rated for a particular anchor. In low light, you want the ones you and other boaters can see at a fair distance. The buoy can also be used as a backup fender along docks as needed. Here is their website with diagrams, photos, prices and a great video that shows it being used in action. C.W. http://www.ironwoodpacific.com/products/anchoring_mooring/anchorlift.htm
Hi all, I just got done reading this thread and wanted to clarify something. I cant vouch for the factorys numbers on the CC or CD. Who knows how old the hull weight number that CD throws around is, but I definitely don't think it is accurate. I would be very interested in knowing what a fully rigged and equipped 22CD weights.
My 23CD, when new, with 90hp Yamaha, Pacific galvanized 6000 pound rated tandem axle trailer, 60 gallons of fuel, 20 gallons of water, fridge, 3 batteries, 2 anchors, etc. weighted 5000 pounds exactly. Granted this was not fully rigged for long range cruising like it is now. I have since added a larger fridge, microwave, coffee maker, blender, 1.5cf freezer, pots, pans, plates, silverware, battery charger, inverter, load guides on the trailer, larger water tank, two spare tires and rims, etc. I suspect now fully loaded and ready to go my rig weighs about 5400 to 5500 pounds. But if I wait and add fuel and water at or near the launch ramp Im about 4750 to 4850 pounds. My 5000 pound rated Isuzu Trooper tows this load fine. It is sluggish off the line but tracks straight and true and most importantly with disk surge brakes I cant even tell that the trailer is back there when braking.
While I do believe the CC23 weights more than the 22CD I don't think it is as much as some are saying and I don't believe that the difference requires a different tow vehicle. Maybe a change in fueling habits but not a different tow vehicle. Correct me if Im wrong.
Bill
P.S. I do beleive that the new CD23 with more accessories and lined interior is heavier than the CC23. But probably by only 100 or 200 pounds.
My 23CD, when new, with 90hp Yamaha, Pacific galvanized 6000 pound rated tandem axle trailer, 60 gallons of fuel, 20 gallons of water, fridge, 3 batteries, 2 anchors, etc. weighted 5000 pounds exactly. Granted this was not fully rigged for long range cruising like it is now. I have since added a larger fridge, microwave, coffee maker, blender, 1.5cf freezer, pots, pans, plates, silverware, battery charger, inverter, load guides on the trailer, larger water tank, two spare tires and rims, etc. I suspect now fully loaded and ready to go my rig weighs about 5400 to 5500 pounds. But if I wait and add fuel and water at or near the launch ramp Im about 4750 to 4850 pounds. My 5000 pound rated Isuzu Trooper tows this load fine. It is sluggish off the line but tracks straight and true and most importantly with disk surge brakes I cant even tell that the trailer is back there when braking.
While I do believe the CC23 weights more than the 22CD I don't think it is as much as some are saying and I don't believe that the difference requires a different tow vehicle. Maybe a change in fueling habits but not a different tow vehicle. Correct me if Im wrong.
Bill
P.S. I do beleive that the new CD23 with more accessories and lined interior is heavier than the CC23. But probably by only 100 or 200 pounds.
flapbreaker
New member
Best Day":12thwx95 said:While I do believe the CC23 weights more than the 22CD I don't think it is as much as some are saying and I don't believe that the difference requires a different tow vehicle. Maybe a change in fueling habits but not a different tow vehicle. Correct me if Im wrong.
Bill
P.S. I do beleive that the new CD23 with more accessories and lined interior is heavier than the CD22. But probably by only 100 or 200 pounds.
I have a Cruiser22 on a double axle king marine trailer. I have a single 90 Honda and an 8hp Classic. I have weighed it several times on the highway scales. Fully loaded for an overnight stay and offshore fishing (ie, downriggers, weights, poles, full fuel, lots of Ice ect. Mine came in at 4300 lbs. Regarding the tow vehicle change, I say it depends. On thing people often forget about is geography. If you live in a relative flat region and don't venture (excuse the pun) out of that area then a person could probably get by with what your doing. However, if you need to cross any mountain ranges like myself then most certainly I believe a larger tow vehicle would be warrented. According to my Honda manual, for every 1000 feet in elevation it will loose 3% horsepower. This can be true to of a tow vehicle. I know I experienced this when climbing to 6000 feet in my Ford Sporttrac (rated to 6500lbs). It was a long grade and eventually couldn't go any faster than 40mph towards the top of the climb. Just a thought.
FB,
When your tow vehicle slowed to 40 mph, did you think that it was unsafe?
It is normal for a heavy rig to slow down climbing grades. I have towed on I-5 a lot and the big rigs slow to as slow as 15 MPH. I could usually climb the I-5 grades (both So Cal and No Cal/Oregon at 40-45-50 mph (in second gear/auto trans) using a Ford 460 FI gas engine in a one ton van. The pedal was not all the way down, and the van was comfortable and not overheating. The I-5 grades top out at about 4200 feet.
I never felt that I needed to go any faster uphill. The fuel economy was about 8 MPG towing in the mountains.
The speed limit for vehicles towing is 55MPH in California and I never wanted to exceed that going uphill or downhill.
When your tow vehicle slowed to 40 mph, did you think that it was unsafe?
It is normal for a heavy rig to slow down climbing grades. I have towed on I-5 a lot and the big rigs slow to as slow as 15 MPH. I could usually climb the I-5 grades (both So Cal and No Cal/Oregon at 40-45-50 mph (in second gear/auto trans) using a Ford 460 FI gas engine in a one ton van. The pedal was not all the way down, and the van was comfortable and not overheating. The I-5 grades top out at about 4200 feet.
I never felt that I needed to go any faster uphill. The fuel economy was about 8 MPG towing in the mountains.
The speed limit for vehicles towing is 55MPH in California and I never wanted to exceed that going uphill or downhill.
flapbreaker
New member
Nope, not unsafe at all. I just think an under sized tow rig might not last as long as one that's sized appropriate to the load. My only point is that with out a doubt the Venture 23 puts a tow vehicle that's rated for 5k closer to it's limit than a similarly rigged 22 cruiser.
Hi guys I just bought a cc-23 and I also own a cd-22 cruiser as far as the ride is concerned The cc rides a lot better because of its 700lb diff plus a little deeper semi v 5 degrees vs . 2degrees . in the rear If you equip the cd 22 the same windlass , refer, floorboards you are looking at about a 600-700 lb difference . The dory with a 90 hp suzuki will do about 32-33 top speed cruise all day at 20-23 The cc 23 will do the same with a f115 yami very little difference in fuel consumption I haven't seen a difference as of yet .The c-dory is much more responsive because of weight difference and because of 90hp suzuki bigger gearcase = bigger prop. We bought the cc-23 for a bigger cockpit and the fiberglass finish .Both Boats I have bought used .AS far as towing we towed the cc-23 about 230 miles or so on flatland (fl) with the same trailer as with the c-dory . We towed with a Honda Pilot with 4whl drive 4500lb rating .We had no problems If we start towing all over We will buy a tandem axcel trl. with disc brakes. I love both boats they are different but very similar .
Flapbreaker, I don´t want to start an argument but I would really like to see what the difference is. Do you know how much your trailer weighs? Is it aluminum or steel? I´m not at home so I can´t look up the weight of my trailer in the catalog. I just remember that it was heavy and if I remember correctly about 200 pounds heavier than aluminum trailers. How much fuel does your 06 CD carry? How much water do you carry at that weight? How many batteries do you have? Does your boat have the cockpit floorboards? I´m assuming it has the Decraguard interior.
One of the reasons I think the CD22 and CC23 weigh about the same is that they seam to get about the same fuel economy and speed with like engines. I can´t imagine a heavier and deeper vee boat (23CC) getting the same fuel economy as a lighter and less vee´d boat unless it weighed the same or less. My 23CC with a Yamaha 90 on smooth water cruises at 23 smph at 4500rpm and tops out at 32 smph. These numbers appear to be almost identical to numbers posted by CD22 owners. I can´t figure out why this would be.
Bill
One of the reasons I think the CD22 and CC23 weigh about the same is that they seam to get about the same fuel economy and speed with like engines. I can´t imagine a heavier and deeper vee boat (23CC) getting the same fuel economy as a lighter and less vee´d boat unless it weighed the same or less. My 23CC with a Yamaha 90 on smooth water cruises at 23 smph at 4500rpm and tops out at 32 smph. These numbers appear to be almost identical to numbers posted by CD22 owners. I can´t figure out why this would be.
Bill
flapbreaker
New member
Best Day":1igyowy3 said:Flapbreaker, I don´t want to start an argument but I would really like to see what the difference is. Do you know how much your trailer weighs? Is it aluminum or steel? I´m not at home so I can´t look up the weight of my trailer in the catalog. I just remember that it was heavy and if I remember correctly about 200 pounds heavier than aluminum trailers. How much fuel does your 06 CD carry? How much water do you carry at that weight? How many batteries do you have? Does your boat have the cockpit floorboards? I´m assuming it has the Decraguard interior.
One of the reasons I think the CD22 and CC23 weigh about the same is that they seam to get about the same fuel economy and speed with like engines. I can´t imagine a heavier and deeper vee boat (23CC) getting the same fuel economy as a lighter and less vee´d boat unless it weighed the same or less. My 23CC with a Yamaha 90 on smooth water cruises at 23 smph at 4500rpm and tops out at 32 smph. These numbers appear to be almost identical to numbers posted by CD22 owners. I can´t figure out why this would be.
Bill
Bill,
My trailer is galvanized and weighs 1090 lbs according to their website. I carry 50 gallons of fuel and sometimes take an extra 12 gallons. I keep my 20 gallon water tank full. I have the wood interior. I do have the drop in floor boards as well. I have 3 optimax batteries. I have no explanation for your performance numbers. I do have to wonder if flat water testing is a good way to compare these boats as far as weight goes. Once you are on plane I would imagine that 500-700 lbs probably wouldn't provide too different of numbers. I don't know, just thinking out loud is all. I have not done flat water testing since I bought the boat new since most of the time I'm fishing offshore in variable conditions. Read the post above from JEnnykatz. Looks like they have BOTH boats.
flapbreaker
New member
Bill,
I just looked at the c-dory website. Although the CC and the Venture are probably not identical they are similar. C-dory lists the boat (no motor) weight of the 23' venture at 3020 lbs and the 22' cruiser at 1925 lbs. Now I know these numbers can't be taken litteraly and are estimates but if the two boats really were within 200 lbs as you suggested I seriously doubt that the manufacturer would spec them this far apart. I'd say at best you looking at 700 lbs difference in the hull weight. But then again, it really doesn't matter as long as we get to enjoy our boats. :beer
I just looked at the c-dory website. Although the CC and the Venture are probably not identical they are similar. C-dory lists the boat (no motor) weight of the 23' venture at 3020 lbs and the 22' cruiser at 1925 lbs. Now I know these numbers can't be taken litteraly and are estimates but if the two boats really were within 200 lbs as you suggested I seriously doubt that the manufacturer would spec them this far apart. I'd say at best you looking at 700 lbs difference in the hull weight. But then again, it really doesn't matter as long as we get to enjoy our boats. :beer
I have suspected the 1925lbs number for a long time. That weight hasn't changed since the old factory was building the boats.
My 1991 22 cruiser with a 250lb 70hp 2-stroke weighed 5,000 including the 800 lb trailer, without gas or supplies. I did carry a bit of equipment, but I am sure the factory weight then was an estimate and on the low side.
When Cape cruiser was building the 23, they quoted the weight as 2900 lbs, and the Venture has a more elaborate interior.
My 1991 22 cruiser with a 250lb 70hp 2-stroke weighed 5,000 including the 800 lb trailer, without gas or supplies. I did carry a bit of equipment, but I am sure the factory weight then was an estimate and on the low side.
When Cape cruiser was building the 23, they quoted the weight as 2900 lbs, and the Venture has a more elaborate interior.
Joy on Whidbey
New member
I know so little that I'm reluctant to post.
We are looking for the perfect boat for us. Today we tried out the Venture 23 and the 22. Both boats were great. The 22 was an owned boat with a 90 and a kicker. The 23 was a Master Marine demo boat with a 115 Suzuki and less gear on board. The 23 "feels" heavier. It had less bounce and was significantly quieter in rougher water. The bow trimmed down more quickly (12 mph). Top speed was faster at 30 mph.
The interior on the 23 does appear much more finished.
We are looking for the perfect boat for us. Today we tried out the Venture 23 and the 22. Both boats were great. The 22 was an owned boat with a 90 and a kicker. The 23 was a Master Marine demo boat with a 115 Suzuki and less gear on board. The 23 "feels" heavier. It had less bounce and was significantly quieter in rougher water. The bow trimmed down more quickly (12 mph). Top speed was faster at 30 mph.
The interior on the 23 does appear much more finished.
Joy on Whidbey, don´t worry about posting. Any and all info is helpful. I´m assuming the 23 Venture was quieter because of the molded interior and I would assume a CD22 with molded interior would be just as quiet.
Flapbreaker, it looks like we carry about the same amount of weight. You usually have 10 gallons less fuel (65 pounds) but have you kicker (80? pounds) to make up for it. I´m out of town now but when I get home on Friday I´ll look up the weight of my trailer and post. I remember when I was looking around at trailers I didn´t want the Pacific trailer because it weighted more than other trailers and I wanted to keep the weight down. On top of that I got the 6000 pound rated trailer (read heavier) so that I didn´t have to worry about the trailer when towing fully loaded. I also plan on taking my boat to the loçal scale to see what it weights now. With all the equipment I have added and gear (crap) that slowly builds up I´m pretty sure I´m at 5500 pounds and maybe more.
I agree flat water numbers are very hard to compare. In average Southern California slop (1-2 foot chop) I usually average 3.8-4 smpg. I worst I have ever got was 3.6 smpg and that was only once.
I plan on finishing the install of the freezer and then using my boat a lot this summer.
Bill
Flapbreaker, it looks like we carry about the same amount of weight. You usually have 10 gallons less fuel (65 pounds) but have you kicker (80? pounds) to make up for it. I´m out of town now but when I get home on Friday I´ll look up the weight of my trailer and post. I remember when I was looking around at trailers I didn´t want the Pacific trailer because it weighted more than other trailers and I wanted to keep the weight down. On top of that I got the 6000 pound rated trailer (read heavier) so that I didn´t have to worry about the trailer when towing fully loaded. I also plan on taking my boat to the loçal scale to see what it weights now. With all the equipment I have added and gear (crap) that slowly builds up I´m pretty sure I´m at 5500 pounds and maybe more.
I agree flat water numbers are very hard to compare. In average Southern California slop (1-2 foot chop) I usually average 3.8-4 smpg. I worst I have ever got was 3.6 smpg and that was only once.
I plan on finishing the install of the freezer and then using my boat a lot this summer.
Bill