2007 Alaska northern inland passage wilderness cruise

[Hunkydory]

Part 4

Good thing bad thing-----Went to put up to get out of the way the Garmin 276-C. Decided to try it one more time and it worked. Just hope it continues to. Bad news. The nobletech software is acting up. If I shut it off during night on start up it shuts back off saying drivers don’t match, when gps connects back up. Has taken as long as 3 hours to start working again. Also the tides and current section will only tell us the present tides and currents for the day. So am having to use the tide book and make estimations for crossings. Part of any cruise is adjusting and dealing with what can and will go wrong. How well we adjust will likely determine how successful this cruise turns out.

cabin front set up for cruise

cockpit set for cruise with generator running.

6-6-2007

After night anchored at south entrance to Dry Pass, Chichagof Island, a very short distance from yesterdays bear experience we were up at 3:30 AM to be ready for the high tide going through and out north end of Dry Pass to open ocean. Very foggy and difficult to see going through pass. With our checking out Dry Pass the day before and using the Douglass- Hemingway guide we make our way smoothly out. Shortly thereafter went right through a group of at least 6 grey whales.
video checking open ocean conditions & Dry Pass when dry
video Exiting Dry pass-- Fog and open ocean to Lisianski Straight


Very hard to film in the foggy bouncy conditions. Before again entering Lisianski Strait checked out Porkypine Bay which has a pretty waterfall at its head. Then in and out of Illian Bay to see Zhilo cove. During this time the fog increased and we lost rpm gauge and battery charge out of the starboard engine with the smell of electrical smoke. Wasn’t to worried because this same thing had happened to us in 2004 while going through Venn Passage to Prince Rupert, BC. After coming out of the fog going up Lisianski Strait stopped at a Tongas National Forest Service warming hut which was located in a very scenic setting.
Jay on the Hunkydory tied up to the warming hut dock

Tongas National Forest warming hut

video Bohemia shelter-Tongass National Forest

Started a fire in the hut stove and enjoyed the ambience for a couple hours. Then it was a slow speed run back to Pelican. Fueled, hot showers followed by trying to find replacement charging coil. No cell phone service here, but was able to purchase a pre-paid phone card to use at pay phones in harbor. No charging coil for a Honda in Alaska and over a week to get one her, so will do without. Will be using the Honda 2000 generator when stopped now to keep the batteries fully charged and will have to use ear to keep twin moters synchronized. During the 6 day outing on Chichagof Island west coast traveled 257 miles on 46.5 gallons of fuel for an average of 5.5 mpg. Still had 43 gallons left , so could have gone another over 200 miles for a total distance of almost 500 miles and that with towing the mokai. Fuel savings is just one of the dividends enjoyed while putting along. You are able to really enjoy and take in what this remote wilderness area has to offer. I might add the S1000 auto pilot also really made a difference in being able to use the binoculars and rest the arms in a safe way. Presently we are relaxing while tied to the dock. Its raining and the coast is supposed to have seas back up to 10 to 14 feet for the next few days, so we might be relaxing here for more time than we want to.
This is a photo of the Hunkydory tied up to the transient dock with tarp over generator running in the rain.

video Pelican-Alaska

Pelican Harbor

We had plenty of fuel and provisions to stay out longer, but with the poor weather forecast decided to come back to Pelican for now. We don’t mind and in fact enjoy the intricate narrow shallow channels and fast water passages, but are very leery of the open ocean and rocky areas with breaking seas all around. 26 miles today 562 total for trip
6-7-2007

Spent the day resting and visiting in Pelican. Enjoyed an hour or so talking to a fisherman working on his boat packing fish on ice to ship out by plane. He has a 25' converted sailboat built in l947 which had been set up to be trialered and had been used many years up and down the Oregon coast chasing the best fishing. He gave us some fish for dinner that night.
His boat

Some of his catch


Also met a couple who had just arrived in there 40' boat that He had built completely It was a real beauty. They toured us through the complete boat. He was most proud of the fact the boat could get 4 mpg.
His home built boat

Inside of boat. Jo-Lee was ready to move in.

In fact all the people we met in Pelican, those who live there and the visitors were friendly and generous. The harbor master gave us a paddle to replace the one we lost in the Black River, which runs into Black Bay. Lost the paddle while trying to video while in a rapid.

Remet the Capt and crew of the Clarena. They were back after a good catch, but losing a lot of rigging in the last storm. Went with them to the little brown bar and eatery. They wanted to see the video of the bear and Kayakers, so hooked it up to the big screen and it drew a crowd. Another fun day. Found out a 3 month boat pass for the Pelican small boat Harbor in summer for us would only be $120. I think if it works out we will spend some time here in the future. 0 miles today.

6-8-2007

Left Pelican 9AM with the same feeling as leaving a new found friend that you formed an instant and then more substantial liking for, hoping but not knowing if you will meet again. Down Lisianski Inlet toward Elfin Cove.
Outlet Lisianski Inlet looking north toward Taylor Glacier.

Tied up to the Elfin Cove transient dock with a lot of big brothers.

video Elfin Cove-Alaska
video Map of Cruise Routes
video 2nd Map of Cruise Routes from Elfin Cove to End of Cruise

Another extremely unique place with board walks going everywhere. Checked out the Eagle Resort where Ken will be working this summer. Wished we could have been able to meet up.

 

[Hunkydory]

Continuation of 6-8-2007

Jo-Lee finally said no when I suggested seeing if we could take the boat through this cross sound land mark.


video Elfin Cove to Dundas Bay
From Elfin Cove caught south and north Inian Passages at slack tide for cruise to Dundas Bay. Checked out where Dundas River enters bay. Another beautiful spot and would have liked to check out river with mokai, but poor anchorage for the Hundydory. Many seals, porpoises and whales when entering the bay. Further up the Bay it has the same rugged grandeur of most of this area. This is part of Glacier Bay National Park, but doesn’t have any boat restrictions. There is more glacier silt in the water and black bears instead of browns and just the way we prefer, no other boats.
Large black bear Dundas Bay

After coming back out of Dundas Bay headed east down the north side of icy straight and crossed opening to Glacier Bay. Many puffins in the area and the first we had seen on this trip. Passed the small town of Gustavus which services Glacier Bay then through icy passage back out to Icy Strait.
Sun going down on Icy Strait

Reached Swanson Harbor at the north junction of Icy Strait and Chatham Strait just before dark at 11PM. For nights anchorage. 119 miles today 681 total for trip

 

[Hunkydory]

6-9-2007

Woke up to beautiful clear blue skies and no wind. 15 knot winds forcast today. Blue skies no rain days have been rare events, so will enjoy. Headed to Tenakee Springs for fuel. Surprise fuel 3.39 lowest price of trip and beat Pelican by a dollar a gallon. When entering Tenakee Inlet saw a large whale with many barnacles breaching for a long time. At least an hour. Though at first it was breakers hitting the rocks ahead because the wind had come back up. When we got closer could see it was a whale and when it wasn’t breaching it was on its back slapping flippers. It breached once within a 100 feet of a small boat. We would have loved to have been that close. With the rough water I don’t think we were ever closer than 250 yds. Stayed and watched till the show was over and it was quite a performance. After tying up at the combination fuel and Alaska State Ferry Dock toured the town.
Tenakee where we docked

Tenakee Springs from the dock

Tenekee Springs is another little town in the midst of major changes. Little and big, old and new houses lining a dirt walkway just a few feet wide. The view from town is a beautiful inlet with the usual rugged snow covered peaks on the sky line. The wealthy have built gorgeous new homes in a wonderful setting, but there is no work and not enough kids to keep the school open. Last class had 5 graduates and the old mercantile store built and in business since the lat 1800's is probably going to closed if new owners can’t be found. This store contained most anything one might need living in a remote setting. From Tenakee springs crossed from the west to east side of Chatham Strait headed for Whitewater Cove on Admiralty Island. Another beautiful inlet with similar grassy head and small river feeding inlet. Tried to take mokai up river, but not enough water. Saw 7 brown bears and took short walk in their land. Wind had changed from north to south and raised to about 20 knots. Whitewater Bay didn’t have a anchorage we liked so crossed back over Chatham Strait to Warm Springs Bay. Wanted to try the hot springs but with now puouring rain decided to make for Red Bluff Bay. Arrived late and would have been difficult anchoring where we wanted to had we not been there before. On the way between Warm Springs and Red Bluff Baay had a small scare smoke started pouring from the wallas stove. Could also smell strong electrical burning smell. I think the burner fan burned up. Between that and the pouring rain we are a little down. The cabin keeps out the rain but will sure mis the dry heat. The wallas stove is hard to beat when its working, but this is far from our first trouble with it. For something that cost as much you would think it would be more dependable. As much as we love it when its working we could not recommend it to someone else, especially right now.
143 miles today 824 miles total for trip

6-10-2007

Our anchorage in Red Bluff Bay video Red Bluff Bay before loss of video camera

Well its midday and after a good nights rest, the rain stopping and the sun peeking through we are in much better spirits. In fact I can’t think of a place I’d rather be than where we are. Brought out the little propane buddy heater and Coleman stove, so we are warm, dry stomachs full and high on coffee. Took the mokai up the river running into the bay and then around the bay. Talked to a couple on a yacht after seeing there dingy is a 14' c-dory and they also had a mokai. Very interesting people up from Seattle. This is the first c-dory we have seen and its riding a yacht.


I pause to look up here and watch a bear very close ambling along eating sedge grass. About an hour ago a couple off a sailboat came in while Jo-Lee and I were in the mokai videoing a bear on shore not more than 25 yds away. They came over and we took turns taking photos of each other with the bear in the back ground.
The bear

In mokai with bear


They invited us over for a spaghetti dinner tonight at 05:30 and with our mainly bread, peanut butter and jelly with trailmix and cereal for a break it sounds pretty good. Actually what makes it really enjoyable is the kind of people you meet when out like this have always been entertaining and enjoyable to share time with. Excellent company and meal. The sail boat is the Liberty out Friday Harbor, Washington and we had seen them anchored in Porkypine Bay at 5AM after exiting the dry pass on our way back to Pelican. The day we headed north they headed south to Sitka where we originally planned to go. Was interesting that we both ended up in Red Bluff Bay departing in opposite directions.

After dinner when going from mokai to the Hunkydory lost our video camera. It was in my lap under my coat to protect from the rain and when I stood up there was a splash and it was gone. We were both in anguish much worse than the wallas quitting. Moped for a couple hours then I took off in the mokai and got some good photos of a bear close to shore stand on a rock. Well he ended up standing on a rock.





Losing the camera is a tough loss and we are considering a run to Juneau to replace.
0 miles today

6-11-2007

We were invited aboard the yacht, Rhapsody out of Seattle for coffee and cinnamon rolls. The owner’s Ron and Dianne were an enjoyable host and we spent 5 hours in pleasant interesting conversation sharing experience’s etc. He had retired from Boeing a few years before where a had worked as an engineer, high in there testing division. She a retired school teacher. They actually lived on this yacht 6 months out of the year and it was a beautiful second home.

They gave us a complete tour of there vessel. Anyone who knows us would absolutely not believe the social gad abouts we have become on this trip. It’s amazing how a smile, wave and sharing similar experiences can cut through the social barriers of normal living. Out here whether the boats are tiny like ours or 50' plus we all are on our own and pushing our individual and equipment limits. This makes the sharing of our different back grounds, which has led us to these remote settings even more enjoyable. Jo-Lee and I are now sitting in the Hunkydory. She reading a novel. Me catching up on the log. The little generator is humming to top off our batteries. A bear is ambling along close by on shore. There are four insight at the present time.

Red Bluff Bays combination of spectacular scenery and wildlife puts it on top of the list of places we would like to return to and see again. Fortunately its not one of the more difficult places to reach, which is why there is generally a yacht or to present. With all the extremely remote places we have visited so far we actually didn’t mind the company here. Having the mokai to safely poke around also contributed to being able to fully enjoy this and other wonderlands we’ve visited thus far. 0 miles today

 

[thataway]

Fantastic log and photos! Brings back a lot of memories for Marie and I.

Any hassle bringing the 12 guage and 3" mag slugs thru Customs in Canada? (We had our .44 mag sent to a fire arms dealer in Ketechican-we will take a 12 guage in the future, but the .44 was much easier to carry in the dinghy, since we had two large labs with us).

Great thinking and acting when the bear/kayakers interacted. We have always worried about this as we saw kayakers or small boat campers in AK. We did hear of one bear which tried to board a boat where there was fish being barbequed in the open.

Thanks!

 

[Hunkydory]

Bob and Marie

Thought it would bring back the memories and pleased to do so. Thought of you often when we were in the Chichagof Island west coast area, especially Black Bay. That's were you had told me you saw bears. Turned out to be one of our favorite places.

Yes the pistols are now another forbidden item in Canada. Fortunately I've never had a problem with the shotgun. Just pay the now $25 fee.

Thanks for the compliment on the bear interaction. I was glad it went the way it did and that bear jumping in the water less than 10 feet from me is a memory for life. Just showed the video to my kids last night.

Jay

 

[Texas Steve]

It was such a treat to read of your magnficent adventures in Alaska. It makes me happy I decided to purchase our little tug. Don't know if we would ever be as adventuresome as you, but still looking forward to wonderful adventures here in the Southland. Can't thank you enough!

Texas Steve

 

[Casey]

Jay - great reporting as always.

RE bears ... In an earlier chapter of life I spent six years at Katmai National Park (King Salmon, AK). The summer months were spent at Brooks Camp. Brooks Camp = Brown Bear City.

We (tried) to deep bears outside the developed areas (lodge, cabins, etc.).

At the time (1981-87) we used what the science-types termed aversive conditioning therapy." That involved a 12 gauge loaded with bird shot, a couple "cracker" shells, followed up with slugs (only used on one occasion in six years) loaded in the magazine.

When all the food storage and other procedures failed and a bear needed to be moved you'd get it's attention (shouting, arm motion, etc) then use a bird shot round aimed so only about a third of it hit the bears rump (rump only...thick coat, and doesn't do any damage). The bears were somewhat startled (they're not accustomed to something as measly as a human sort of kicking them in the ass...) and would begin to amble away. The next stage was to carefully lob a "cracker" shell a few feet behind the bear. As the cracker shell exploded, the bear sort of shifted into second gear and began moving-out smartly.

One caution: don't accidently lob the cracker shell in FRONT of a departing bear. They can reverse direction Very quickly! I wouldn't recommend that you demonstate this procedure for the local PETA chapter - some sensitivities might get fluffed-up.

Anyway - cracker shells are like an airborne M-80 firecracker (farmers often use them for crow control...) and can be very useful, non-lethal deterrents.

...just an idea.

Casey

 

[Hunkydory]

Casey

Sure wished I could tell a story like you. Sure had me laughing and every bit of it true to boot. Do remember from our time down at Lake Powell your past with the bears. I've had a few years also, but not like you.

I always carry a couple cracker shells with me. Have wondered what the border types would do if they noticed them. I always thought they would work best when a aggressive bears is moving in your direction in a open area. I should have used one of them on the bear before it made its swim. It spent at least a half hour building up to entering the water and up to that point a cracker probably would have sent it on its way. After it entered the water I don't think anything would have turned it around. We were having so much enjoyment watching it that we really didn't want to scare it away along with neither of us believed it would actually swim to a group of people sitting in front of a fire with us in the boat almost in between.

Jay

 

[El and Bill]

Jay and Jolee --
You held us transfixed to the computer enjoying your incredible pictures and story. Well done. Sure looking forward to seeing your video.
Your shots of Red Bluff brought back some marvelous memories. Thanks for sharing!!

 

[Hunkydory]

Quote

Jay and Jolee --
You held us transfixed to the computer enjoying your incredible pictures and story.


El and Bill

What a wonderful compliment coming from two who have about seen and done it all.

You two have accomplished the same thing for us, only for many many more hours. Very happy for once we could do something like this in return.

Have 8 hours of video, that I don't know when I'm going to have the time to edit. The welcome mat is always out for you two here. Would love to show you a preview.

Jay and Jo-Lee

 

[lloyds]

Making a brown bear pose on a rock for photos is no small feat. Great photos. Sue is gonna love reading all this.

 

[Hunkydory]

Part 5

6-12-2007

Up very early 3:30 AM. Decided we had to try replacing video camera. We both get much enjoyment out of viewing our trips over and over during the cold Wyoming winters and sharing with friends and family. So it was out of Red Bluff Bay and across Chatham Strait around the south end of Admiralty Island going west to east on Frederick Sound. Many whales around the entrances to Pybus and Gambier Bays. Saw three whales breach at the same time and they weren’t during their bubble thing. They were spaced out a couple hundred feet apart and blew out of the water and then landed with a huge splash. Doubt if we will ever see that again. Even if we had the video camera we would have missed capturing the event. It was just to unexpected, but what a sight.

Saw another really amazing thing. A rock that changed into a dead whale, that came back to life just as we came up within a few feet of it. All whales we have previously seen disappear and reappear as they either cruise on top, sound or breach. This looked just like a rounded rock except the depth indicator said we were in 500 feet of water. We slowly approached thinking it must be a dead whale floating. Just as we got up along side it with the boat almost touching it let out a big blast of air, lunged forward and disappeared. I think the only time we’ve been more surprised by was our mis adventure on the Fords Terror rapids in 2004 . I was getting ready to take a photo with the digital camera and between the shock of it coming alive and the camera having to focus before it will work we missed the photo. Didn’t know whales slept, but I do now. Can’t think of anything else to explain the experience.

This isn’t that whale, but sure like the way the water is coming off this ones tail.

From Frederick Sound it was up Stephens Passage to Juneau. Saw these eagles and ice just north of the entrance to Holkum Bay.

video Eagles and Ice Stephens Passage


We fueled in Juneau then found a place in Harris Harbor to dock. Followed by a bus ride to Coscos. Found a small canon video camera that will have to do. Choices were limited. Riding the Juneau buses is something we would just as soon not repeat. After being in a slow boat for a couple of weeks it made for a white knuckle ride.
video Crossing the Mendenhall Bar Juneau to Auke Bay
We both were looking forward to showers ect in Juneau, but the harbor facilities were very poor, so with the tide being close decided to cross the Mendenhall Bar to Auke Bay. This short cut can save a lot of time and fuel, but isn’t advised to be tried by the more faint at heart or at least so suggested our Cruising Guide. It said many boats have been left there high and dry to be laughed at by the locals. Fortunately for us they had to save their laughter for some other unfortunate. Started with a 12.5 foot tide and came out the north side with 14.5 feet. Went slow due to poor water visibility and not knowing what cast offs may have been under the surface. The bar drys at 10 feet, so paid close attention to the markers. It at least had markers unlike Dry Pass, Chichagof Island. No comparison really due to a mistake here being just laughter. If we had screwed up in Dry Pass a bleacher full of laughter would have been welcome compared to the alternatives. Was using running lights by the time we docked at Auke Bay.

Owe a big apology to wallas. The electrical smoke we smelled was partially burned kerosene and stunk just about as bad. Seems all that was wrong with the wallas stove was low battery voltage.. On the way out of Red Bluff Bay decided to try it after topping off the batteries with the Honda generator while there. Worked just fine and what a relief. At least we now know that the back ups will keep us warm and brew coffee. Miles today 145. 969 miles total for trip.

6-13-2007

Again up at 3:30 AM to beat the forecast 20 knot winds on Stephens Passage. Decided to check out the Sanborn Canal and the tidal river to the salt water chuck in Port Houghton Inlet. Caught the tidal river on the upper end of the flood , but still had to wait for awhile midway in to go the rest of the way safely. Clear skies and mostly smooth water on the way down. Many seals and two black bears in the salt water lake. Nothing but bear hunters in Sanborn Canal, so after a three hour nap headed to Cape Fenshaw and anchored for night behind Whitney Island in Cleveland Passage. No wind, so nice calm anchorage. Miss the eagles, bears ect we have had around us at all the anchorages. 146 miles today. 1115 miles total for trip.

6-14-2007

Left Cleveland Passage anchorage at 6 AM then around Cape Fenshaw and southeast in Frederick Sound to LeConte Glacier. Lots of sunshine and light winds causing the blue ice in the icebergs to really show. Couldn’t get any closer than 3 miles to glacier not even in sight of it. Much more ice than last time in 2004 when we made it within 2 miles in the fog following the Empress of the North.
This is a photo of us following it across the bar in 2004


video Dodging ice trying for Laconte Glacier
Had some fun with the mokai around the icebergs and with the sun it made for a memorable sight.

Even got to look at the Hunkydory through an ice apple.

Two other boats were trying to reach the glacier and didn’t make it any further than us even with their iron or maybe aluminum hulls. Made us think and wonder how El and Bill along with Chris in the Rana Verde made it right up to the glacier last year.

Left the ice for Petersburg, fuel and walk around town. Gas was 3.60 a gallon and we averaged 3.6 mpg for the last 254 miles. Do about 2 mpg better if we spend more time putting around on one engine. Much more relaxing here today than in 2004, when we ordered and waited for computer ruined in Fords Terror rapids. Will spend the night tied to the dock in the small boat harbor. 87 miles today. 1202 total for trip

6-15-2007

Again up at 3:30AM to make smooth water run across Frederick Sound to south end of Admiralty Island. A sailboating couple from Juneau we had met in Red Bluff Bay had told us about a sea lion rookery on a little island off the West Brothers Islands. A couple hundrred sea lions make quite a racked. Spent a interesting hour watching, filming and listening.

video Sea Lions Brothers Islands Fredrick Sound

From the Brothers Islands which are 50 miles from Petersburg went the rest of the day, which was 41 miles at displacement speed on single motor to conserve fuel. Checked out Pybus Bay. Is beautiful, but there is a resort in Cannery Bay that has many boats coming and going through the whole Pybus Bay area. We anchored for a while in Sheldon Cove and went for a Mokai ride. Not much wildlife in area, so slowly cruised to Gambier Bay. Anchored for the night in Snug Harbor.
Snug Bay, Admiralty Island anchorage
video Exploring Gambier Bay Admiralty Island

Many eagles, geese, ducks ect in coves. Saw three brown bears. They were all colored similar. Almost black with some brown. Close to the color of a black bear but these were definitely grizzlies. The brown bears on Baranof, Jacobie and Chichagof Islands varied widely in their coloring from very light to almost black. Very few looked just alike.

Took a hour ride in mokai just before dark. Had a black porpoise come up very close along side. Was somewhat startling, but enjoyable. Can see why so many people like the kayaks with the close to water quite ride. 91 miles today 1293 total miles

6-16-2007

Woke up at 5 AM with strong northwest wind blowing and not so snug in Snug Harbor. Pulled anchor and went four miles northeast to a very small extremely protected Harbor. Had used it in 2004, so knew just where to go. Back to sleep for 3 hours to make up for restless night. Wind blowing 15 and 20 knots all day. Slow cruised to head of inlets. Found smooth water to anchor Hunkydory, then cruised in mokai . Seven bears and the usual other wildlife. Enjoyable slow day.
Relaxing in Gambier Bay anchorage

Back in same small inlet to anchor for tonight. Wind blowing very strong out now and we are tucked in on smooth water with a gentle swing on the hook. Clear blue skies today and temperature up to 69 degrees. Warmest day yet. Ran the Honda generator today as we slow cruised keeping the batteries full up. With the generator the charge coil being out on the starboard motor has turned out to not be a problem. 18 miles today 1301 total miles

 

[B~C]

wow, what a great adventure...and to think, no laptops where killed this year I wish I would have been up here ealier this summer and had a chance to chat with ya's

ken, currently assigned to duty in Pelican

 

[Hunkydory]

Part 6

6-17-2007

Another one of those amazing days we spent all the previous winter day dreaming about. Up early again to beat the wind in Stephens passage. Was still blowing hard with a nasty chop coming out of Gambier Bay, then smoothed out considerable going up Stephens Passage to Holkem Bay. Many whales at least a couple dozen spread out crossing entrance to Seymore Inlet. Up Endicott arm to entrance of Fords Terror through many more ice bergs than in 2004. We made it back to the site of our 2004 near disaster. Arrived on a low ebb tide very similar to when we took our wild ride. Anchored the Hunkydory in the northeast entrance nook and went to shore in the mokai. We were a little nervous leaving the Hunkydory due to ice bergs floating around in this nook.
This is the Ford Terror anchorage nook.
video Fords Terror the return

To shore with the mokai

Huge beautiful blue ice bergs grounded in the entrance

And this left stranded when the tide dropped.

We walked to where we could look into the out rushing rapids. Well they didn’t look as big as when we ran them in 2004, but big enough that I think we were very fortunate to only suffer computer and camera losses.

Jay standing in front of the rapids

This link is to a 3. 5 minute video taken in 2004 showing us in the Hunkydory entering these rapids
fords terror video
Took photos and video. When they calmed down enough just before low slack we went on in and lowest depth was 6 feet.

While the tide was low and near slack we continued into and out of the east arm of Fords Terror. Water very low and moving fairly fast with lots of seaweed. The description by Douglas-Hemingway was very accurate. Next went to the head of the west arm. More harlequin ducks here then anywhere we have been. Also a large school of finger lings that came by the boat and turned the water almost black. Watched the seals up very close around and under the boat having a feast.

While I was trying to download to computer from video camera the scenes of bear and kayakers a brown bear walked along the shore beside us crossing the steam under a waterfall.
Photo of bear with seal watching it.

The bear went in and out of the alders from the sedge grass and small river three times, while I maneuvered either the c-dory or mokai to try and photo or video him. When we left he was back out on the flat feeding.

This time we crossed the Fords Terror bar on a near high flooding tide with a smooth ride. Jo-Lee and I might add, I too much preferred it to our prior exit of this amazingly wonderful very remote place.

Then it was back down Endicott Inlet trying to get weather to check direction of winds for to nights anchorage. Choice was Sundum Cove, which has protection from south winds and Tracy Arm Cove which has better protection from north and west winds. Had to go all the way out of Holkum Bay to get radio reception. Tracy Arm Cove will do fine, but by this time the clouds which had been very low dropped right to the water.
There is an ice berg in this photo
video Fog and Ice holkham Bay Tracy Arm Cove

Came through the entrance to Tracy Arm with radar on and my eyes glued to radar and the chart plotter, while Jo-Lee had her head out the side window looking for ice bergs, bergy bits and other debris. It was displacement speed with the dense fog all the way into Tracy Arm Cove, where we found nine other boats all seen on radar long before they appeared out of the mist. Was hoping they were boats and not ice bergs, because the entrance to Holkham Bay and Tracy Arm Cove had many ice bergs in them. First time we used the radar this trip and sure glad we had it.
95 miles today 1396 total for the trip

 

[oldgrowth]

We walked to where we could look into the out rushing rapids. Well they didn’t look as big as when we ran them in 2004, but big enough that I think we were very fortunate to only suffer computer and camera losses.

They look big to me, especially for a C-Dory and encountering them unexpectedly.

Again, a great travel-log and fantastic photography.
________
Dave

 

[Hunkydory]

wow, what a great adventure...and to think, no laptops where killed this year I wish I would have been up here ealier this summer and had a chance to chat with ya's

ken, currently assigned to duty in Pelican

Ken

We checked out the lodge you said you would be working out of in Elfin Cove. Is this it?

Really liked Elfin Cove, but if it were me and I had my choice, I'd be in Pelican. Its our favorite town in the Northern Inland Passage. Sure hope you are enjoying it there as much as we did.

Sure would enjoy a chat with you on your experiences in the Pelican-Elfin Cove area. We too wished we could have met up with you while there. No doubt in the future someplace we will.

Jay

 

[Hunkydory]

We walked to where we could look into the out rushing rapids. Well they didn’t look as big as when we ran them in 2004, but big enough that I think we were very fortunate to only suffer computer and camera losses.

They look big to me, especially for a C-Dory and encountering them unexpectedly.

Again, a great travel-log and fantastic photography.
________
Dave

Dave

Thanks for the :thup its hard to go wrong with that kind of subject matter. Our experience with photography is very limited. Just point and click.

Like you said from a unexpected boats eye view those rapids did look and then feel huge. From land they did shrink some, but I highly doubt there is a c-dory out there thats been through worse. If there is I would sure would like to hear about it.

Jay

 

[thataway]

More great pictures, Jay. We usually went to Auke bay directly--our boat would have difficulty with the passage, both air and keel draft...
We did get permission to tie up to the cruise liner dock for one night, when we off loaded our visitors onto one of the cruise ships.

You really have me thinking about the Mokai Kayaks...not sure I want the drag of towing one all of the way from BC to AK. (assuming we get to go to AK next year!)

Thanks, Bob

 

[El and Bill]

Following your trip and enjoying every minute of the marvelous pictures and dialogue -- interesting to see Ford's Terror this trip compared with your 'plunge' on the last trip. Thanks again for the sharing --

 

[B~C]

great stories and pictures, quite an adventure fer sure. Ya, that's the lodge & ya, Pelican is a much more picturesque spot..maybe next summer we'll meet up.