115 Suzuki Performance Data on the 22 Cruiser

D

dtol

New member
Does anyone have some performance data for the Suzuki 115 on a CD 22 Cruiser? Looking hard at one and would like to rundown as much information as I can.

Used to be on this site a lot back in the day when I owned the Shadetree. A 22 Cruiser that I bought new in 92 and sold in 2007 when I upsized to the Whataday, a 27ft diesel powered aluminum Glacier Craft. Downsizing again. Too much to manage when you get to be 74 years old.

Glad to see Thataway is still around. So helpful when I needed help with my old boat. Saw my old C-dory 20 miles down the Coast from Cape Resurrection Alaska not too long ago. Still going strong. Same twin Honda 45s
 
I have a 115 on my 2006 22’ with just over 400 hours on it, performance wise it has all the power the boat will handle without getting too fast and loose. It has a four blade prop that make it very responsive, if I were to repower I would choose the identical lashup. Easy on fuel and rock solid reliability.
 
SteakTacos":3ee0zzsh said:
I have a 115 on my 2006 22’ with just over 400 hours on it, performance wise it has all the power the boat will handle without getting too fast and loose. It has a four blade prop that make it very responsive, if I were to repower I would choose the identical lashup. Easy on fuel and rock solid reliability.
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Thanks for the come back. Do you have any information about GPH and MPG at different RPMs? Part of what I need to determine is how much extra fuel I will need to carry to have a 250 mile range. And how I will carry it. No gas stations in Prince William Sound. I figured that I would need 71 gallons at 3.5mpg to have that range. The actual distance for a 4 day trip in PWS is about 210 miles. The rest is buffer. Also, what are the speed and RPMs at 3.5mpg?

The boat has two 23 gallon tanks as usual.
 
I had the Merc 115 4 stroke on Midnight Flyer. (22). I don't have the numbers on file anymore, since I sold the boat. But believe mileage was 5 or 6mpg at hull speeds (about 5-6 mph) and about 3.2 on plane. Top speed was around 32mph, but boat is squirrely at that speed, so my normal cruise was 18 or 21 mph. I ran a 4 blade prop, the Solas 13.25 x 13. Colby
 
My 22 cruiser is rated for a 100 hp max on the dash tag, are newer ones rated higher now? What do the ins carriers say about exceeding the rating? Anyway I'm happy with the 90 Honda choice.
 
chucko":d52v3e8i said:
My 22 cruiser is rated for a 100 hp max on the dash tag, are newer ones rated higher now? What do the ins carriers say about exceeding the rating? Anyway I'm happy with the 90 Honda choice.
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Boats 21 feet or longer are not required to have the tag and is only a recommendation. My 22 never had a tag from the factory and they installed a Suzuki DF-115 on it at the factory shortly after that the new tags were changed to say 115. My boat now has a Suzuki DF-140 on it. Loaded semi heavy at Lake Powell I could reach the lower end of WOT with a 17 pitch Solas 3 Blade SS prop.

5600 RPM
10.1 GPH
2.4 MPG
23.8 MPH

5000 RPM
7.1 GPH
2.6 MPG
18.5 MPH

2100 RPM
1.0 GPH
5.7 MPG
5.7 MPH

On edit the factory did offer it's approval for Sportcraft to mount the 140.
 
dtol":3opgbn8e said:
SteakTacos":3opgbn8e said:
I have a 115 on my 2006 22’ with just over 400 hours on it, performance wise it has all the power the boat will handle without getting too fast and loose. It has a four blade prop that make it very responsive, if I were to repower I would choose the identical lashup. Easy on fuel and rock solid reliability.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the come back. Do you have any information about GPH and MPG at different RPMs? Part of what I need to determine is how much extra fuel I will need to carry to have a 250 mile range. And how I will carry it. No gas stations in Prince William Sound. I figured that I would need 71 gallons at 3.5mpg to have that range. The actual distance for a 4 day trip in PWS is about 210 miles. The rest is buffer. Also, what are the speed and RPMs at 3.5mpg?

The boat has two 23 gallon tanks as usual.
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I would put very little stock in the MPG column IF you are boating on the OCEAN. With proper technique (and I might say excruciating effort**) you can go hundreds of miles on the ocean and not burn a drop of fuel, OR you can ignore tidal currents and go upstream on every tide current, (Highly defeating any MPG chart figures and keeping the fuel stations happy.)

". . .actual distance for a 4 day trip in PWS is about 210 miles."
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Is that distance measure an over the ground, GPS, distance or is it running with or against the current? A 5 knot current can increase or decrease your ground measurement by 5 nautical miles per hour.


** By drifting along with the current when it is favorable, and then anchoring at the slack tide until the favorable tidal current returns you can cover maybe 25 miles every 6 hours, or 50 miles a day. That will greatly increase your miles per gallon, but it may put a dent in your schedule, IF you have one.

A good friend of mine used the tag line, "A schedule is the most dangerous thing on a boat."

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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As a general rule, I try to run with the tides as Harvey suggest, but there are many times when this isn’t realistic, such as adjusting for, daylight hours, morning & afternoon winds, making destinations between more hazardous weather events & timing passage through extreme fast tidal current areas. Trying to make a strict schedule can make for more hazardous cruising, but most all must fellow somewhat of a schedule & modify it for best results. Most open channels, sounds, passages & canals except in very narrow or shallow areas have currents only running 1 to 3 mph & even on these, there can be varying areas where back eddies can actually reverse the current & are often marked by debris between the currents. I look for these when doing long slow cruises where I have gone full tidal cycles many times during a days cruising.

Tidal currents certainly can effect mpg, but one should & needs to be able to estimate their fuel usage at different speeds & conditions to come up with the number of gallons they will need to make a specific amount of miles in a day or weeks between having to take on more fuel or run out. I have never come close to running out of fuel in all our long distance cruising, due to building in a high reserve factor. I have cruised in our CD22 for near 2 weeks & over 400 miles between fueling & still had 27 gal aboard. when stopping to refuel.

With our old twin Honda forties for estimating distance for fuel, I would plan for an average of 3 mpg on plane & 6 mpg at displacement. With the newer twin 60’s the milage is much better, but I still don’t know how much better when running extremely heavy. I’m hoping & planning for an average of 4 mpg on plane & 7 mpg at displacement for our next summer SE Alaska cruise. So far it appears to me the Suzuki 115 or 140 is not quite as fuel efficient as the Hondas, So Denny, I would suggest for your first trip just building in a larger reserve then needed for the past until you know more or someone can give the information you need. You appear to have much experience with the CD22 to evaluate others advice.

Jay
 
I really don't think you're going to see a dramatic difference in MPGs with any 4 stroke outboard hanging off the back of your boat going a given speed with a given load. It doesn't matter if it's twin 40s, 50s, 60s, or single 90s, 115s, or a 140. The reason, while it seems really complex, isn't. Modern outboards, even 4 stroke ones from the past with carbs, burn really cleanly and efficiently and a gallon of gas will only take you so far. That's not to say there haven't been advances because there has been. I just wouldn't expect much difference in fuel usage between a 90 hp outboard going 20 kts and a 115 going 20 kts and conditions in an identical boat. The 90 is going to spin faster to make the same power and the 115 will spin slower. They will burn extremely similar amounts of fuel in doing so and in actual usage on the water I doubt you will be even able to tell. One thing is for sure though, the 115 will go faster and burn more fuel than the 90 if you want it to. You will get there faster if the seas allow it.
 
The 90 is going to spin faster to make the same power and the 115 will spin slower. They will burn extremely similar amounts of fuel in doing so and in actual usage on the water
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My experience is that the 90 and 115, if propped the same, will be turning the same RPM at medium to moderate planing speeds. But as noted the 115 will produce it increased power at the high end of the curve, and go faster. For example the 90 may be 28 mph at 5800 and the 115 may be 32 at 6,000 RPM.

We cruised AK for 4 years in a 7 knot motor sailor. In that case usually one plans a single pass or adverse current a day, and plans to arrive at that area at slack just before a favorable current. With the C Dory we could do 2 or 3 passes a day, and maybe one will be current with us and another current against us. But with the boat going 20 mph, and max current 5 mph it was doable....Some passes the current is far greater than 5 mph! -
 
Jay, Yes I get what you are saying and you get what I am saying.

The main point is that miles change when you are on moving water. If you are running upstream, against the current your "mile" is going to go under you somewhere short of 5280 feet. IF you are going down stream, running with the current, you will exceed 5280 feet before your mile of water goes under the hull and through the prop.

I agree too, that most currents will not be 5 knots, but some are, and it was just an easy number to pick on.

The major point is that for figuring fuel miles per gallon, it would be more prudent to figure uphill miles rather than down hill. It is always good to have extra reserve.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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thataway":19ltkq1q said:
The 90 is going to spin faster to make the same power and the 115 will spin slower. They will burn extremely similar amounts of fuel in doing so and in actual usage on the water
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My experience is that the 90 and 115, if propped the same, will be turning the same RPM at medium to moderate planing speeds. But as noted the 115 will produce it increased power at the high end of the curve, and go faster. For example the 90 may be 28 mph at 5800 and the 115 may be 32 at 6,000 RPM.

We cruised AK for 4 years in a 7 knot motor sailor. In that case usually one plans a single pass or adverse current a day, and plans to arrive at that area at slack just before a favorable current. With the C Dory we could do 2 or 3 passes a day, and maybe one will be current with us and another current against us. But with the boat going 20 mph, and max current 5 mph it was doable....Some passes the current is far greater than 5 mph! -
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I totally agree if the prop is the same and the gearcase ratio is the same. They might be. And they might not be. A general rule for all 4 stroke engines is larger displacement ones make more power lower in the powerband than smaller displacement ones because the smaller ones have to turn faster to move the same amount of air/fuel and thus make the same amount of power. They won't be much difference though in practice when using the same powerhead.....and that just illustrates my point on MPGs - you're not going to able to tell, until you're at the top of the powerband where the bigger motor is really moving more air and fuel, and moving the boat faster. The dollars are just flying out the back of the boat now......lol....
 
To my knowledge all of the 90 hp engines which have 115 variants are on the same blocks. In fact the Suzuki 115 and 140 are the same block (and the reason that a 140 apparently was "sanctioned" on a C Dory 22 by the factory.

The Honda 115 and 130 were also on the same block. Recently there was/is a C Dory 25 with a 115 hp Honda on it for sale. I had the 130 on my first 25, and it was under powered.
 
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