Winterizing a FourStroke

T

Tug

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C Dory Year
1985
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Hull Identification Number
DOR22241H585
Vessel Name
Drifter
Is it still necessary to remove the spark plugs and fog the cylinders if you have already fogged the engine thru the intake Port. Also , can you remove the oil filter without draining the oil..already drained and replaced the oil and filter but just want to change to a better oil filter.Thanks Tug
 
No. did you run the motor dry and drain the carbs? Was the motor running when you sprayed the intakes? I always ( sure others will tell you different) just ran the motor until it was almost empty then sprayed fog into the carb until it quit. then keep cranking because some times it will restart. Then do it again until it does not restart. I dont mean to say that you cant just pull the plugs and spray in there, you can its quick and easy and lets you inspect the plugs. Now this was for two stroke motors and I have never done it for a four stroke and not sure you have too, thats another question.

Tip for two stroke motors that are running rought at idle or quit at idle. Buy a can of de-fog. Get the motor running at above idle a little and spray the defog into the carb a little at a time. it will start to stall the motor so stop spraying unit it idles back up. Just keep doing this over and over until the cans gone. This will remove all the gunk from the needles and also all the carbon from the walls and rings. I was given a motor that a friend had given up on, a 25hp johnson, because it would not idle for trolling. I did this one trick, followed by a new set of plugs ( dont for get that its important) and that was my motor for my 12 ft trout boat for 4 years. Ran great at idle for hours. Just did this once a year and no problems. again this is for small two stroke motors.
 
Yes, the engine was running when i fogged the intake Port untill it stalled out.I usually remove the spark plugs and fog the cylinders, but wasn't sure its was neccessary if you fogged the engine thru the intake port. There is this little screw on the Port side that you open..( engine not running )..to drain all the gas from the engine lines, etc......it's the same idea as draining the carburetors on a non-EFI. Just to be safe cause i will remove the spark pugs and fog the cylinders, remove the safety langard and crank the motor over.

The marine business must be bad,two long established Marine dealers closed here this year, one went bankrupt and the other is bulldozing his place on the water and building condominiums..that leaves only one dealer..( Mercury ). here in the city. Tug
 
Tug
I don't know what your set up is as far as where you store your boat and such. But since mine sits in my driveway,I don't really winterize it so to speak. At the end of the season I change oil and filter, and lower unit oil. And then all I do is once a week, maybe every ten days or so I hook the hose up to it and run it for fifteen minutes or so. Keeps things moving and puts some time on the batteries. I also drain and refill the moisture collection pans in the cabin. My main is EFI so I don't run it dry but I do run the gas out of my kicker. But I also fish some during the winter, but not as much as the rest of the year
 
Fuel stabilizer, follow instructions/ratio for long term storage.

On the main: run it through the engine for a few minutes, as it's FI, and flush it with SaltAway or similiar.

On the kicker: do the same but pull the fuel line and let it run dry. Put the covers on.

I also keep them vertical so no water collects in the lower unit that could freeze and cause a crack. That's it. I usually don't do this until winter. Not fall, as I use the boat some and it generally doesn't freeze here until after the new year.

When the weather gets really cold, I put an oil heater inside the cabin (on low) along w/ a small fan for air movement. I plug the shore power in, turn the battery charger on, open all the cabinets etc and cover the entire boat. The bedding goes in vacuum bags...no mold at all so far.



...see you in the spring.
 
Tug, If you follow the instructions outlined in your owners manual for winterizing the motor, you will be happy when warm spring days return. Fogging both the cylinder interiors and the motor exterior will eliminate corrosion and rust damage from condensation accumulating due to rapid temperature changes and little or no ventilation.
 
Brent, thanks for sharing that. Good info. Will take it to my mechanics this winter for the annual layup service.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Tug":32k0r2f9 said:
Yes, the engine was running when i fogged the intake Port untill it stalled out.I usually remove the spark plugs and fog the cylinders, but wasn't sure its was neccessary if you fogged the engine thru the intake port. There is this little screw on the Port side that you open..( engine not running )..to drain all the gas from the engine lines, etc......it's the same idea as draining the carburetors on a non-EFI. Just to be safe cause i will remove the spark pugs and fog the cylinders, remove the safety langard and crank the motor over.

The marine business must be bad,two long established Marine dealers closed here this year, one went bankrupt and the other is bulldozing his place on the water and building condominiums..that leaves only one dealer..( Mercury ). here in the city. Tug
Click to expand...

The little screw on the Port side is used to drain the fuel from the " Vapour Separator Tank " was what i meant to say..Tug
 
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