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Winter Projects
- Thread starter bburgin
- Start date
Discovery":2j9w403i said:Discovery will get a Webasto Air top 2000 ST, and camperback. We hope to return to BC, or maybe go to Alaska SE, come May or June.
Will you remove your Wallas when you install the Webasto? If so, with what will you replace it?
Hope to see you in BC/AK!
Warren
Warren,
There is plenty of room behind the Wallas to mount the Webasto. On the underside of the counter top, or on the stb wall of the galley cabinet. Both areas have a 12" X 24" free space. We will use both, the Webasto for heat and Wallas for cooking. There is a good location for the Webasto exhaust, just aft of the Wallas exhaust. I will duct the warm air to the berth, and to the toe space of the galley cabinet. There might be room for a 5 gal. fuel tank under the floor, between the shower sump and the stb. water tank. The TomCat really has a lot of unused spaces when you look for them.
Brent
There is plenty of room behind the Wallas to mount the Webasto. On the underside of the counter top, or on the stb wall of the galley cabinet. Both areas have a 12" X 24" free space. We will use both, the Webasto for heat and Wallas for cooking. There is a good location for the Webasto exhaust, just aft of the Wallas exhaust. I will duct the warm air to the berth, and to the toe space of the galley cabinet. There might be room for a 5 gal. fuel tank under the floor, between the shower sump and the stb. water tank. The TomCat really has a lot of unused spaces when you look for them.
Brent
centerisland
New member
Discovery":255k9smq said:There is a good location for the Webasto exhaust, just aft of the Wallas exhaust.
From my experience with an Espar D2, and recent experience with a Wallas 95, I should point out that the furnace exhaust may be much hotter than the Wallas. I can put my hand over my Wallas exhaust (and touch the exhaust ducting under the cabinet), but both of those would result in a quick burn with the furnace.
The reason I mention this is, while I wouldn't mind having my Wallas exhaust toward another rafted boat - or wooden dock - I had to be careful with the Espar exhaust. On my trawler, with a larger Hurricane furnace, I first installed a heat shield on the pier of my permanent slip, but now I have a piece of angled tubing that I insert (pressure fit) to direct the heat downward. Still, I have to be careful not to let a line or fender contact that tubing - it would melt within a few seconds.
Another consideration on the combustion exhaust is to make sure you have a portion that travels downward - any errant wave that slaps the side of your hull could otherwise ruin your furnace.
Finally, I can't recall this completely, but I believe that there was some guidance on the Espar (perhaps the same for the Wabasto) to balance the combustion intake and exhaust lines. Certainly you will want to add something pliant to the intake side to muffle induction noise. Or...heck, I could just be remembering that wrong. :roll:
got my water system done, shore power installed,batterie charger,outlets,the boat had 2 group 24 batt,removed the one from the port lazaret and installed 2 group 31 in the space between the fuel tanks, I have been doing marine eletrical work for 15 years, cant believe the wiring that was done on this boat,a real joke! all the wire is not even marine grade wire, and the connections wow,had to make new batt cables,the old ones were not soldered,just crimped, I crimp,solder,and heat shrink every connection,never had one fail,most problems are from failed connections
centerisland
New member
bburgin":3uueauxx said:...and installed 2 group 31 in the space between the fuel tanks...
I'm thinking of replacing the 2 conventional batteries from the stern locker with 2 group 27 AGMs, and have been going back and forth between putting them under the settee (better trim versus longer wiring run) and between the tanks for convenience. I'm certainly going to replace the rats nest of wiring in the locker with a protected installation inside the cabin.
What factors lead you to the between fuel tanks location? How did you secure them? Obviously, keeping bottom penetrations to a minimum in that area would be desirable.
On my 19 I moved the battery out of the locker to down between the fuel tanks mostly to get the weight down and help with the trim issue. Solved it nicely. I put the battery in a battery box and sat it on a square of Dri deck and then put a 2 inch webbing strap around the fuel tank and battery box to avoid screws. Worked well. I've rigged my 22 the same way first time in the water was bang on trim with a load. From sailing I learned to like my center of gravity down low and I used webbing straps on everything from water tanks to control blocks. CD's fuel tanks are web strapped in so lots of precedent. George
I decided between the fuel tanks because that location was not being used for anything else,you can get group 31 batts from NAPA that will fit in group 27 boxes,the NAPA brand is tapered slightly. I made teak blocks that keep the batts in place,screw them down,then used straps attached to the blocks,bedded in with 5200.
matt_unique
New member
I can see our projects are still cooking! I added two more photos today with the keel laid and the bottom prepped for paint. I'm painting the outside white with a hunter green stripe to be similar to Napoleon. On the inside I will stain some of the wood pieces including the chines, seats, knees, etc. I will install a wood stained rub rail as well. I love retaining at least some of the natural wood.