Window Coverings

F

fidalgoisland

New member
I am sorry to ask this but I have searched without success for what I am looking for. I want to change the coverings I am currently using on my windows for those that use "snaps". I am trying to find what types of snaps have been used and how they were attached to the boat and/or windows. If you have posted how you did this (pictures even better) I would appreciate you pointing me to the link. Thanks!
 
Sea Critter,
My windows have snap in curtains. My local canvas shop made them out of SunBrella. I removed the screws from the upper and lower corners and installed male snaps with screws the same length and diameter as those removed. My canvas gal installed the new female fastens to the canvas to mate to the male fasteners. They fit well and look great.
When you install new stainless steel screws, they need to be coated with Tea-Gel to isolate then from the aluminum window frame, to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full ... _photo.php
 
We did pretty much what Steve described. We replaced the corner screws with screws and snap ends from Sailrite and made the coverings out of Sunbrella. My wife sewed in a small strap with another snap so that we just unsnap the bottom of the coverings, roll them up, and hold then in place with the strap. We used an adhesive backed snap centered above the window to snap the snap to. I can never get pics to appear, but here is the link to a pic in our gallery.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
 
Thanks Steve, that is exactly what I was looking for. You don't happen to recall where you got the snaps? Also, your boat looks great.

Dennis

srbaum":d1s5u13m said:
Sea Critter,
My windows have snap in curtains. My local canvas shop made them out of SunBrella. I removed the screws from the upper and lower corners and installed male snaps with screws the same length and diameter as those removed. My canvas gal installed the new female fastens to the canvas to mate to the male fasteners. They fit well and look great.
When you install new stainless steel screws, they need to be coated with Tea-Gel to isolate then from the aluminum window frame, to prevent corrosion of the aluminum.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?full ... _photo.php
Click to expand...
 
BBalock,
Tef-Gel is a wonderful tool to keep in your tool kit. Any dissembler metals should be coated with a bearer to prevent the corrosion of the metals, so yes to your question. I use Tef-Gel on all stainless to stainless, stainless to aluminum and other steels to aluminum. Tef-Gel also prevents stainless to stainless from galling.
An example of where it shines, is every bolt that is on your outboard engine. Say for instance, you change your water pump impeller, coat all fasteners with Tef-Gel, coat the impeller, driveshaft and shift shaft with Green Grease (this is an inexpensive waterproof synthetic grease sold at most discount auto stores). First off the impeller will go into the housing like butter and second, the shafts will mate at splines and remain lubricated. The bolts that are now coated with Tef-Gel, will come apart next go-round, like a brand new engine.
I have a hobby of overhauling outboards and every outboard that leaves my shop is like new and comes apart down the road like new, because every fastener is coated with Tef-Gel.
PS, NEVER coat any rubber product with a petroleum based grease, as is WILL cause the rubber to deteriorate. Also most outboard specks call for waterproof grease. You can shop all you want, but one of the few "waterproof" greases that is common on the market is the Green Grease.
Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
 
Dennis,
I purchased my snap fasteners from Sailrite.
Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
 
Steve, Since you are a mechanic and engine builder, I am wondering if you have checked to see if "Tef-Gel" coated fasteners require an amended "torque schedule", especially on critical engine bolts?
 
Barry,
A very good question indeed...
I served an apprenticeship as a young man and learned a lot in that few years of time. I worked on trains, ships, tugs, subs and most other things with medium to very large power plants. I was scolded more than once for not following the manufactures instructions, when installing and torquing fasteners. This very lesson taught me that most manufactures specified dry or wet (lubricated) torque settings. So, this is still part of my routine.
Outboards have the same detail in their manuals. Honda, and Tohatsu, for example, usually spec dry or wet. If in doubt and there is no technical guidance, I have to assume that the torque is dry. If the torque is dry and I lubricate the fastener, then I reduce toque 15 to 20 percent. I have torque chart at my bench for most all fastener general torque specs.
So, the things that I do use a toque wrench for on an outboard include fasteners for the block, rod, crankshaft, head and flywheel. Most other fasteners I tighten in a normal rotation sequence by feel. I also use tool that are the correct size for the fasteners, so that the fasteners are not artificially over tightened.
Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
 
srbaum
Thanks for your info.
The wet torque -15 to -20% I have never seen but will use it.
My plan now is to get the Tef-Gel and cote all ss screws in the painted aluminum around the windows and door. I hate seeing the paint bubble up all over near those screws.
Benton :idea
 
I've not seen any corrosion on my windows. Both with the original screws or the stainless snaps I replaced some of the screws with. I mostly boat in fresh water environments.

AFAIK, the Diamond Sea Glaze windows come with stainless hardware, I don't think that the C-Dory factory would have replaced the hardware in the windows.

Before this thread I'd never heard of Tef-Gel.
 
I use different window shades than the fabric, snap or roll up type. I use the silver foil or mylar ones, for use in automobile windows, that have a spring wire in them and snap open to about 4 times the stored size. They come with a silver material, one side is very shiny (reflective) and one is more of a dull surface. I have a pair of 3M adhesive hooks at each window, one at the top one at the bottom, and I put the reflective shade in, shiny side out if it is warm out. If not, then either side works. They reduce cabin heat immensely, because I can put them up and still leave the windows open, allowing for air flow in the cabin. I use these when towing and boater-homing too, keeps prying eyes out.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

January_2010_476.thumb.jpg
 
I did something similar to Harvey's sun reflection for the hot days. My "Reflectix" insulation was purchased in a roll and cut to fit between the window pane and the Sunbrella fabric. All of it, rolls up neatly and is stowed when not use in a small storage area.
When the AC is running, the Reflectic is placed in service and it also prevents heat loss on the cold nights as well.
My inspiration for the Reflectix was based upon Mary and Rob's upgrades to their boat Freedom.
Steve Baum
Homeport of Portsmouth, VA
OSPREY (Ex Mister Sea) 2000 22 C-Dory 2010 - Sold 3/19
OSPREY (Ex ADITI) 2007 26 Cape Cruiser 2018
 
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