window cover snap to fabric question

J

Jake B

New member
so we are in the process of making window covers for all the windows on our 22. I have been reading throughout the archives looking at all the old post. I already know to get the 5/8 stud screw in snaps for the windows and to use existing holes. but attaching the snaps to the fabric do I really need a special tool to do this? or is there a trick to not having to?

also a lot of the links in the old post are no longer good. i have been looking online and looks like the best place i can find is sailright they have the screw stud and snap that goes with it for .78$ each and looks like i will need around 40 of them. anyone know a better deal out there?
link
http://www.sailrite.com/Snap-Fastener-C ... less-Steel

thanks for any help with attaching these snaps to fabric.
 
Jake B":669x2ddh said:
but attaching the snaps to the fabric do I really need a special tool to do this? or is there a trick to not having to?
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I've installed a fair number of snaps for an amateur. I've always used some sort of dedicated tool, but never one of the really expensive ones. One I've used is a snap stud setter from a "regular" fabric store. It's a sort of cheap plyers type thing that has a plastic receptacle in one jaw for the snap cap and another receptacle in the other jaw for the other side. Then you just poke one side through a hole in the fabric and close the plyers. Another is just a very simple die that's something like a mortar and pestle and you hammer on the "pestle" to form the two parts together. If I remember correctly I may also have used something that fit on a vise grips in the distant past. I bet the special tool from Sailrite is fantastic, but you don't need it. I've set snaps into nylon tubular webbing with the simply plyer one (so not just into thin fabric).

Sailrite is great, has good customer service, and their paper catalog is an excellent reference tool.... but I do sometimes buy from other places as well. McMaster Carr has a selection, I think. Watch out for non-stainless snaps (or snaps that are only partially stainless).

Sunbeam
 
Jake,

The stainless snaps are much more difficult to set in fabric using an inexpensive tool. The difference in the end product is distortion in the button cover when set with a driver or vise grip type tools. My advice would be to purchase the fabric through Sailrite and shop for the snaps locally where they have a professional set tool (most will loan it out or let you use it in the store). It will make your job easier with perfect results. Don't forget to reinforce the fabric where you locate the snaps.
 
My IRA":1zn5mwdu said:
Jake,

The stainless snaps are much more difficult to set in fabric using an inexpensive tool. The difference in the end product is distortion in the button cover when set with a driver or vise grip type tools.
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You know, maybe I was using nickel-plated snaps at the time -- it has been a few years since I was making a lot of snappy things, and materials info was not as easy to come by back then. So I should probably have been a bit less enthusiastic in my endorsement for the cheaper tool (I didn't mean to steer you wrong, Jake). I do usually lean toward buying a good, "lifetime" tool, such as the Sailrite one. I didn't know about local shops loaning out the pro tools --that's a good idea.
 
thanks for all the info I will deff price out the shope here to put snaps in or look at stores that may lend the tool also first. and no misdirection sumbeam, I appreciate the info. i'm sure the snaps will be reinforced. I am not doing the actual making of these my gma is doing the sewing part.
 
Jake B":23cqehfx said:
anyone know a better deal out there?
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You might want to try http://www.rochfordsupply.com/ . I bought my snaps/studs there as well as the Press N' Snap tool. They are quite a bit cheaper than Sailrite (Ex. the same tool is $116 vs $139). Most of the snap pieces come in bags of 100. I priced out the same stainless combo of 5/8" stud, stainless socket, and stainless button and it comes out to $42 for 100.

Nothing against Sailrite by the way....they have a great store and customer service. I have one of their Ultrafeed sewing machines and love it.
 
I vote sail-rite, used them for snaps and the press and snap tool, when I did window covering on tomcat. By the way, I used duck cloth/canva, cheap and blocked out light nicely. Did not feel sunbrella was needed in that application.
Also, doubled up the thickness where the buttons are placed with a 1 inch circular piece of canvas, so they don't rip out.
Full disclosure: had mother in law sew on black edging.
 
I installed window covers on Journey On. I got the snaps, etc. from Defender:Snaps, Grommets and a vise grip tool. All worked well and were cheap in cost, not quality.

BTW, if you do order from Defender get a top snapper for putting up any outside canvass.

And we installed the front window canvass inside, instead of outside. I'm not sure why people put the front covering outside, but it's a lot easier to put it up at night from the inside.

Boris
 
journey on":2bcww8dx said:
<stuff clipped>
And we installed the front window canvass inside, instead of outside. I'm not sure why people put the front covering outside, but it's a lot easier to put it up at night from the inside.

Boris
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Boris,

I think some people put the front window canvas on the outside to protect the window while trailering. E.g. it reduces rock chips and puts the bugs on the canvas.
 
A protective cover over the front windows is an absolute necessity when towing. It needs to be made up by pros probably because it should be two layers with a matt cushion layer in between the two to handle rocks. Don't leave home without it. If you don't have a front outside padded window cover, it is only a matter of when not if you will lose a window while towing. I lost mine while pulling through a wall mart parking lot. The truck rear tire picked up a quarter, flung it up and at 20 mph, took out the center window. I hadn't put up the front cover because I was "just going a couple miles."
 
A few comments: I have used a number of various setting tools for the snaps, including commercial grade when I helped my sailmaker friends out. The anvil/setter is a bit crude will work--and will deform slightly the button. I have owned and used one of the Vise Grip sets for over 40 years and have set hundreds of the snaps with them.

On the corners I would cut a patch the same radius as the corner, and then slip a piece of 6 to 8 oz dacron between the pieces of canvas. I would put binding tape around all of the edges.

My current front window cover is just single Sunbrella--and so far so good--probably have towed C Dories over 15,000 miles or more with no window damage...but the padded would be better.
 
Regarding putting the front cover on the inside, I was thinking of the big trawlers that never get towed. Their cover is always on the outside and I've never figured out why. At night, it's a lot easier to put it on from the inside. And I wish I had an explanation for that.

Having a cover over the front windows during towing has never occurred to me and I've been towing boats for (lets see, that one then that,) OK, 40 years. The ones with glass in the front have been pretty high. And that includes the c-Dory 25. I've never had a rock reach up there. Been through one hailstorm coming back from the Great Lakes and that hammered everything including the truck. I wished for a cover over everything. For the 22 which is closer to the ground, rocks may be a worry, and the extra cloth up front should help. Your choice.

Anyway the snaps and tool is good advice.

Boris
 
thanks for all the feedback I looked on defenders web site but they seem to be a bit higher in $. I like defender I have used them a few times in the past.

All the coverings we are making right now will go on the inside of the boat. I had not really thought about covering the outside while in tow but seems to be a good idea and will look into making some of those as well.

I am first going to price out how much the canvas shop here in town will charge to pop them in for me. I just don't see needing the tool after this project. so if its reasonable I will go that way. If not I will look more into the different tools. thanks again for all the info and links. looking forward to having these made.
 
journey on":15oo8868 said:
Regarding putting the front cover on the inside, I was thinking of the big trawlers that never get towed. Their cover is always on the outside and I've never figured out why. At night, it's a lot easier to put it on from the inside. And I wish I had an explanation

Boris
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Most of those BIG boats have the covers on while unattended b/c of the teak trim that many of them have. It's not only at night!

Charlie
 
Towing issue aside, we made curtains for the door,side, and rear side windows only, and a screen curtain for the door and center front window. For the front windows we got a car dash sun shield, the folding padded kind, and cut it to fit. It takes only a moment to install and folds to store.
 
A couple of tricks--one is I have a soldering gun which 150/100 watts, which I use for cloth work. I have one flat blade for cutting, one for searing edges, and one is round for hole making. I put the cloth on a piece of board and press the hot iron with the round point on the cloth and it burns a hole, with sealed edges. Easier than a hole punch, and is heat sealed.

I got to thinking why some have not had as good luck with the Vise Grip attachments. What I do is to make the first push with the die so it goes about half way, then I tighten the vise grips a half a turn and do the final press. This is a little more work than the professional tool where the die is at right angles at all times. For the anvil type, I make the first tap with a small ball peen hammer on the die, with a center punch, to start the flare, then the final taps with the die tool which comes in the kit.
 
I just had window coverings made for my boat last fall. The guy that made my full cover, did the window coverings out of some leftover material. I'll try to get some photos later and put up. I think he did a nice job. The coverings have a nylon flexible rod in the top of them that slide into a track attached above the window. This way I can either leave the coverings attached and just roll them up when not in use, or remove them entirely. Everything is inside the cabin.... Now about the postings with having front window coverings for towing. That has my attention a bit. I have already trailered my Cd-22 a few thousand miles, uncovered. (My cover is mostly for storage). Before that, I had a Searay 268 Sundancer, that I also trailered frequently uncovered. I have not had any issues with window damage on the boat. In fact, I'm actually more concerned about bow fiberglass damage than I am the windows, and have yet had a problem there. I'm also towing with a Toyota Highlander (and before that a Ford Excursion), and don't spin my wheels on gravel. ;-) Seems to me the windows on the C-dory sit fairly high behind a high bow. I'll have to look closer when I have the C-dory hitched up, but I'm thinking it would be next to impossible to get a rock in the boat window, unless it came from another vehicle coming at me. And even then again, the rock would have to be flung high or come around the bow somehow. So anyway, I'm kind of curious now how many folks that trailer their c-dorys have had damage to their boats by thrown gravel, etc. Colby
 
Unfortunately I have had several windshields damaged badly (even broken once) by various rocks.--some have been in trucks and RV's, so rocks can get up high--and then come down. --of course there is often both the speed of your vehicle--lets say 60 mpg, and some spin from the rock as thrown up--and can be on either side of the road--which could put the velocity over 100 mph...

When towing our Yukon behind the RV, we have a skirt of fabric which is between the RV and the truck. There is PVC pipe in the middle, with shock cord around the periphery of the skirt. The RV has 4 SS attatchment points on the rear bumper, and the RV has several. For the boat we can use the same skirt with a piece of PVC pipe to support the fabric on the front of the trailer. This skirt goes under the hitch, thus protects the electrical cables (which I have also had destroyed by highway debris several times--usually "Road Gators"--old tread.
 
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