Windlass/Rode Setup

D

Donald Tyson

Member
I am beginning to think that a windlass is in my future. So finding the right layout would be important. I have a Hawse Pipe but it is in the wrong place and it can't be utilized.
My boat has a junky bow roller and the rode is constantly flipping over the top of the guide because the bail is simply in the wrong place. I hope to remedy that with a bow roller that is better suited to my Bruce styled anchor.
Once I get that all fixed up I need to decide what the layout will be for the new windless, stops and cleats. Do I need a chain stop? Do I need to add a cleat to hook the rode to once the anchor is deployed . How would you line them up.
It seems like a lot of the photos I saw on the internet show folks not using any stops or cleats but are letting the winch hold the boat.
What does your setup look like?
 
You never want to just leave the windlass to hold the anchored boat. Unless it's in calm water for a lunch stop. I have 300' of 8 plait rode and 20' of 1/4" chain. I had an 13 lb Delta anchor, but won the 22 lb Delta in the auction. :D I also have rode markers every 30'. (Little vinyl tapes with the distance marked on them that you can buy at most marine stores.) Once my anchor is set, I will use the bow cleat behind the windless to wrap the rode around a few times to tie off. Then I have a rubber bungee I put around the anchor rode just in front of the bow roller, and hook both ends to the pivoting pin in the bow roller. This keeps the anchor rode from going back and forth on the roller during any sailing of the boat, to keep it quiet.
 
Got a picture of the bungee and how that works Colby? Not visualizing it...

I do have some basic anchoring questions. I try and not keep the load on the windlass in the "up" position so I back the anchor off a couple of inches and then use a bungee chord to attach to one of the chain links and the other end to the cleat behind the windlass. That holds the anchor in place while cruising around.

But, I single hand a lot and often don't have someone to go release the bungee, etc... and in rough weather I sometimes have to anchor quickly. I am backtracking on thinking that I need to hold the anchor in place. Yeah - there is I guess some risk that the clutch suddenly gives way, but how often does that really happen vs the multiple times a day I may want to set the anchor alone.
I may have to get a windless remote at some point since when single handling even getting slack in heavy weather to wrap around the cleat can be difficult when there is no one there to control the boat while I am on deck. At least with the windlass remote I could get a few feet of slack and quickly wrap the cleat.

Or, what am I doing wrong? CD25
K
 
krc":37ejyx64 said:
Got a picture of the bungee and how that works Colby? Not visualizing it...

I do have some basic anchoring questions. I try and not keep the load on the windlass in the "up" position so I back the anchor off a couple of inches and then use a bungee chord to attach to one of the chain links and the other end to the cleat behind the windlass. That holds the anchor in place while cruising around.

But, I single hand a lot and often don't have someone to go release the bungee, etc... and in rough weather I sometimes have to anchor quickly. I am backtracking on thinking that I need to hold the anchor in place. Yeah - there is I guess some risk that the clutch suddenly gives way, but how often does that really happen vs the multiple times a day I may want to set the anchor alone.
I may have to get a windless remote at some point since when single handling even getting slack in heavy weather to wrap around the cleat can be difficult when there is no one there to control the boat while I am on deck. At least with the windlass remote I could get a few feet of slack and quickly wrap the cleat.

Or, what am I doing wrong? CD25
K
Click to expand...

I'll see about getting a photo sometime today if I remember. Like you, I also use the bungee cord to secure my anchor. However, only while the boat is on the trailer. I do not secure it on the water for the same reason you mentioned of wanting it accessible in case of an emergency. I think the windless is ok holding the anchor alone, and in it's fully up position on the bow roller, there isn't really that much weight being placed on the windless. Colby
 
It is well advised to not allow the windlass to take the full load of anchor. If the windless slips (just clutches which hold The load of the Lamar and similar windlasses. Some windless have pawls, to hold the chain/rope gypsy. Also if the anchor rode is well out it will be the nylon anchor line which is jammed into the gypsy. Not good for wear on the line either.

I use the main forward cleat or a bridle--as illustrated below.

Spring_lines_2.sized.jpg

The light lines (5/16") take all of the load, the center cleat, next to windlass has slack in it. The same is done when using all chain, but even with 50 feet of chain, I rarely anchor by chain only (to get the 7 : 1 scope in the anchor rode.

I don't like the chain stopper or a chain tensioner on the deck in a C Dory. Some boats they do serve a purpose. I just tie a light line between the anchor and foredeck cleat to be sure that the anchor does not self launch--be it on the road or in the water.

Incidentally there is the deck pipe with cover, shown on the Starboard side of the deck. A Hawse pipe is a tube from the deck to the outside of the hull near the stem. It does not go to the anchor locker.
 
Here is a photo of my anchor setup while deployed.
IMG_9161.jpg

And if you look closely at this one, you can see how I use a rubber bungee cord to snub up the anchor rode so it's not so noisy sliding on the front roller when sailing in the wind.
IMG_9163.jpg
 
A question for Dr Bob.
On your main anchor line, I see you have a bridle set up, which to my understanding takes the load off the the main rode to the windlass. 1. Is it still necessary to tie the main anchor rode to the cleat behind the windlass since the bridle is carrying the load? 2. Does the bridle line stop the fishtailing when at anchor?
I'm still trying to weigh out the necessity of tying the anchor rode to the cleat behind the windlass. I understand it is preventative maintenance so to speak but in my experience of anchoring (which is slight compared to your ventures) I have yet to have a failure of the windlass clutches. But I have had times when I really didn't want to venture out to the bow to unleash my anchor line form the cleat. I would have felt much safer just staying inside the cabin to pull the anchor. In which case I would have neither the bridle or securing to the cleat.
 
Bob, KRC, I too want to be able to anchor alone in bad conditions without going forward to fix it all fast. My thoughts were to have the forward anchor cleat ahead of the windlass and just a bit to one side or the other. There doesn't seem to be enough room to have that setup. I'm tall and I figure I can do all of this through the fwd hatch. I do hate running the rode over top of the windlass.
BTW I don't have the bridal cleats you show on your boat. Shall I install them?

Colby, Congrats on that nice anchor. Too big for a 22 bit it may be nice on your 25. My boat has a 16.5lb Bruce type on it and it worked lovely on the St Johns. I like your snubbing idea but I hope to place a more effective bail on the end of the anchor roller. Or I may replace it with a bow sprit and roller like I had on the sailboats....bowsprit with rollers.

In light of this discussion I guess I won't cleat off my stored anchor either, except when trailering. I'll keep you informed of my progress and if you think of more let me know.
 
The cleats are install thru the deck with backing fender washers or back up aluminum plate. Over drill and epoxy seal the holes.

I like to have the cleat behind the windlass--just to the side as I show is fine--if you get too far to the side there is risk of chafe on the anchor weldment. Do not put a "bow Sprit" on the C Dory. It is not necessary; You can find or have built anchor rollers which will do what you want. I even had one which could be taken off easily and mounted in reverse on the deck, with a 3/8" SS plate which had threads cut into it for the flat head 3/8" bolts (Allen head for tightening). On a bigger boat--you could go slightly smaller on the plate.
 
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