Windlas Chain Question

B

Bill3558

New member
Greetings Fellow Brats,

Went out to the beach today and had a cluster when my windlas jammed when I tried to retrieve the anchor. Its a Lewmar 700, and its not the first time its happened. Seems where the rope attaches to the chain there is always a problem feeding thru the windlas down thru the deck. It bunches up and jams so I have to go forward and deal with it.

I have 25 feet of 1/4 inch chain and would like to add another 25 feet to avoid the problem in shallow anchoring. My question is how do I connect another 25 feet of chain? I just looked on the West Marine site and didnt see anything. It would have to be a connector that is strong and will feed thru the windlas. Does anyone know what I could use? I hate to just buy 50 feet of new chain.

Thanks for any ideas.

Bill and Beth
 
You should be using G 4 or System 40 High test chain 1/4" diameter for the 700. There is a connector link, which has two pieces, and each piece has a little piece which fits thru a hole on the other half of the link. That protuberance needs to be peened over.

If you put the connector link together with J B weld and then peen over the heads, it will be as strong as you need with a C Dory. The strength with the epoxy approximates the G 4 chain.
 
I happen to have one of the links Bob mentions, and though I'd photograph it and add some graphic explanation to his fine post:

IM004875.jpg

IM004876.jpg

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
I wonder what is going on with your rode such that it jammed....what line do you have connected to the chain and how is it connected? I have 275' of line spliced to 25' of chain and I have never had a jam or a single rode jump off the gypsy. I do pause a few times (for a second or 2) when the anchor is free from the bottom in case anything is twisted.
 
Where the rope and chain meet, the rope is typically baided back through itself for at least 10 inches, do it's basically doubled in thickness where this back-braiding starts, although the strands are tapered down after the first few braids.

This causes a large bulge in the chain/rope transition zone, and can be a problem for certain windlasses.

Some rope chain splices are more problematic than others, depending on the rope brand and exactly how they were braided, etc.

I had so many problems with my Quick Aires 500 Windlass that I developed my own way to splice the rope to the chain, weaving two of the strands down the chain, and only one back up the rope.

There's a discussion about it on this thread:

New rope to chain splice idea!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Gents, thanks so much for the information. But where the heck can I buy one of those links?

Joe you nailed it in your description of the problem. In addition there is not enough "drop" on the rode as it passes thru the deck so it gets sideways and jams. Chain will solve the problem if I can find one of those links you describe.


Thanks again guys.
 
You c an buy those links at your local West Marine store, or through the Catalogue. Also most chain suppliers, such as Campbell or ACCO have the links--or their retailers have the links. When I get home I'll send you the part number and a reference.

I think that the secret to avoiding the jam at the rope to chain splice, is both a very tight splice, and a series of tapers (you cut half the strands about 3 times, after 3 tucks.--My spice "bulge" is only a couple of inches, and it tapers to just a little thicker than the rode at the last tapered tuck. I gave my rope to chain splice demo to the new owner of Freqient Sea, but can do another when I get home, and photo it for the demo of how to do that. Joe's techinque also works.
 
Bill3558":kl26wzx9 said:
Gents, thanks so much for the information. But where the heck can I buy one of those links?

Joe you nailed it in your description of the problem. In addition there is not enough "drop" on the rode as it passes thru the deck so it gets sideways and jams. Chain will solve the problem if I can find one of those links you describe.


Thanks again guys.
Click to expand...

Bill-

That's exactly what I did, in two steps:

1.) Changed the first 100 feet of rode to all chain- Works just like chain in a bicycle sprocket, no slippage, no joints/unions/changeovers = no problems!

and

2.) Used the different splicing technique for the joining of the chain to the next 200 feet of rope.

You're exactly right: The chain drops much better than the rope down into a short or shallow locker because of it weight and flexibility (once the tension load is off of it). If I thought I could afford the weight, I'd go to all chain, but know the elasticity of the three strand rope is a real asset, too, especially in heavy weather anchoring situations. The heavy all chain rode in the first 100 feet is especially good for use in steep walled reservoirs like Shasta Lake.

Good Luck, and keep us informed as to how it goes!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
thataway":2aqr8d8y said:
...

I think that the secret to avoiding the jam at the rope to chain splice, is both a very tight splice, and a series of tapers (you cut half the strands about 3 times, after 3 tucks....
Click to expand...

That is exactly how I have mine spliced as well...tapered.
 
I have 140 ft of that G4 chain. To small for the Ranger with the 1000 series winch. used very little. Anyone interested p-mail me. Freight probably quite costly. Guess a guy could chop it up for shorter pieces.
captd
 
Peen

The end of a hammerhead opposite the flat face, often rounded or wedge-shaped, and used for bending and shaping. To bend or shape something by striking it with the peen of a hammer.

Ball Peen Hammer :thup

OK... raised in a hardware store.... sold many hammers, of which some were called Ball Peen Hammers. So...today...thanks to this thread.... I now know what that actually means... I guess in the 70s I had my mind elsewhere....

Thanks

And... on page 241 of west marine cat (2008 version) part info follows but this is a galvanized one instead of a pretty brass/bronze one like Joe posted a pic of:

Chain Size: 1/4"
SWL: 1325 lb
Model 135707
SFHAR#: 4408-40403
Cost: $ 4.49


Byrdman
 
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