Where do you store your dinghy/tender motor?

OK, I went to the Boat US/West Marine and they had one of the 800's. The charger is 80 amps--40 volts nominal max current at 2 amps charge rate. Converting this back to 110 volts, it is about .8 amps. Any 100 watt inverter--I would go to 200 watts, will handle this easily. The engine basicially is a 24 volt engine, but as I noted above the battery finish charge is about 36 volts.

This allows lots of options for charging--including the solar panels I mentioned. An inverter running off any battery bank, charged by the main engine. Or even a direct switching power supply 12 to 36 volts.
 
"Thataway" Bob,

So, are you saying that I could get a 200 watt inverter, one that plugs into my cigarette lighter plug and recharge my Torqeedo 801 battery?

Thanks,

-Sarge/Carl
 
Bob, thanks for the research and explanation. Looks like the Torqueedo option is back in play. Have to consider whether or not I would want to use a 3.5hp Tohatsu as a trolling motor like you did.

Sarge, how do you like your Torqueedo so far? What are the plusses and minuses?

Warren
 
Sarge, From what I saw at the dealer it should work on a 200 watt inverter. Do you have a "Kill-a Watt" meter? I suggest that all boat owners have one. They meassure amps use, volts, frequency and watts. The unit plugs into a socket, and you plug your chager into the Kill-a-watt, to find out exactly how much power it uses. The "Kil-a-watt" plus a good digital volt meter will allow you to solve almost 100% of your electrical probems on a boat (house RV etc).

There is what is called a "power factor" for a battery charger, and I am not sure what it is for this charger. The "power factor" for an inductive load in a battery charger is basically the amount more power (volts/amps) required to produce the charging output. For example if it is 80% more power required for this output, it has a power factor of .80.

The theoretical requirement is about 80 watts, but I suggest 200 watts to be sure that you have enough resever for an inverter.
 
I finally posted some pictures in my album of the bracket we use to carry our dinghy motor on our 25' cruiser. The bracket is made from plywood. The aluminum was given to me from scrap from a local supplier but it shouldn't cost much. Fastened with glue and stainless crews then painted. The Magma clamps were bought at West Marine and were about $45.
 
RUSS-

Very nice! Well thought out, simple, and very functional!

You may be getting requests for dimensions and drawings soon!

LINK to the rest of the photos.

100_7420.sized.jpg

Joe.
 
Warren,

Earlier you asked me what I thought about the Torqeedo...I was waiting for the Navagear article to be put on line http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=6182&highlight=

Basically, the motor is very torquey and moves the boat well. Not spectacularly fast, but it can move two adults easily. The battery lasts a couple of hours and recharges easily. I do have an inverter (400 watts), but I've yet to use it to charge the batteries.

What I don't like is the throttle. Twist one way and it goes forward, twist the other it and it goes backward...that's fine but it is too easy to turn! There is no resistance it just twists so easily in your hand. I always seem to screw up also. I forget which way is forward and which is back and the slightest movement makes the torquey motor jerk me forward and backward.

It's probably me, but I find the tiller too long. Even at its shortest setting I find it difficult to make turns because my body is in the way. I use my right hand so turning left is easy, but turning right is hard.

Finally, to be honest I'm paranoid that if I leave it at the dinghy dock someone will just walk away with it! Or just take the $600 battery! There doesn't seem to be any way to secure it. A 26lb motor is light, until you feel obligated to carry it all day!!!! :crook

I hope you found this helpful.
 
pcator,

I believe it is the approximate equivalent of a 3.5 hp gas motor, but with a much more limited range.

I use my boat in the Puget Sound, even the calmest water would be a challenge for this motor to move the boat. With the current and with the wind...maybe. Against the current and wind...nope.

In my opinion, for a CD25 owner, this is strictly a tender motor.
 
I've finally settled how to transport my new inflatable's motor and here are some images. Out on the water she rides here EV42.sized.jpgWhen I'm going into a marina she hides in the vee-berth in her crib
74_Quart_Sterlite.sized.jpg
.Finally, the raft itself transports down the road like this
Road_Mode.sized.jpg
and out on the water 2" nylon straps w/ cam-buckles keep her from blowing away. I hope this is helpful for other new "rafters" like myself.
Strapped_Down.sized.jpg
 
Does anyone leave their dink on the cabintop while trailering? Does everyone deflate or put in the cockpit like Adeline does?

Warren
 
Warren

Before the Mokai when we brought our small RIB with us most everywhere we went it depended on the length of trip and altitude changes on whether we stored it or left it on top. If left on top it will create more drag and lower the mileage of your tow vehicle. And altitude changes will either cause it to under or overinflated and that can wreak havoc with how its secured on top.

We left it on top with out problems several times on our 200 mile trips to Yellowstone lake. On our far northern trips it was always tucked away.

In the past when we towed a RIB on a small trailer it was inflated. Went from Wyoming to above the arctic circle in the Yukon and elevations from 0 to over 8000 feet. Was amazing on how much it would shrink and swell.

Jay
 
We carried the inflatable on the top of the 22 when on the water. We deflate the current dinghy and store it on the cabin top or in the cockpit in the Tom Cat. Probably do the same for the CD 25. We use an electric pump and it only takes a few minutes to inflate the dinghy.
 
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