What to Look for When Buying a 2006 25' Cruiser - SF Bay

dread

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I am buying a 2006 25' Cruiser with Twin Honda 90's. What should I be careful to look for? How will it perform on San Francisco Bay? I have seen Permatrims recommended. Anything else?
 
Very wide open question you're asking. I once sold a boat to a gentleman and he never put it in the water. Lucky for him, I'm an honest person - I would never have done the same.

1) Review the hull for dents, scrapes, blisters, holes...etc.
2) Put the Cruiser in the water - ensure it floats.
3) Check all electrical - ensure all breakers work on the panel and all electrical/electronics work.
4) Lift all hatches and review for rotting.
5) Run engines. Evaluate engine hours. Ask when engine was last serviced. Ask if they'll tell you who services the engines.
6) Run the Cruiser out for one hour or so and check stability, steering, stabs, hydraulic levels, etc.
7) Check battery switch operation.
8) Check batteries.
9) Check battery charger, ionic galvanizer for functionality.
10) Ensure all navigation lighting is operational.
11) Check anchor storage in v-bert for rottting and general condition.
12) Check to ensure the stove works.
13) Run the water lines - ensure the water pump works.
14) Open/Close all windows - check screening.
15) Check that the head shower is functional.
16) Check that the marine toilet works. Boat have a macerator?
 
I will have an initial inspection, sea trial, marine survey and an engine survey, but thanks for the helpful checklist.

It seems from other posts that leaking water tanks are something to look out for, also leaking cockpit hatches.

Any thoughts about whether the 25' Cruiser is a good boat for San Francisco Bay, with all of its weather?
 
As you look around the brats web site, you will see all sizes of C-dorys on all kinds of water being captained by all levels of competency.

I'm convinced that even my little 22 cruiser would be safe on SF bay or any BIG waters depending upon the competency of the person at the helm. I consider myself only moderately competent after 40 years of power and sail boating.

This question sorta falls into the, "if you have to ask, you'd better not," kind of realm. That is not an insult, so don't get me wrong. I know my limitations, and I'd be squeamish to go out on SF bay in any but good conditions. BUT, I have friends who take smaller boats than mine out...usually sail boats, and just don't even care all that much about the weather.

Boat quality and weather ability + Skipper capabilities = the answer to your question.

The CD does the boat part very well, it is the second part of the equation that needs the most scrutiny.
 
Agree fully w/ Harry. I live across from the Atlantic Graveyard and I navigate the Graveyard on occasions. Depending (mostly) on time of year, when the Labrador Currnet (upwelling) meets the floating river (Gulf Stream), it's ugly. I live by the motto: Go slow, or don't go at all. My 2007 25' Cruiser does admirably well. When it looks like all hell is breaking loose, I go SLOW and ride the quarters.
 
The 25 is a good boat for SF Bay because of all its weather. The boat will handle anything the bay will throw at it, but that does not mean it will be easy going all of the time. And yes, learning the ropes of boating the bay is key to success. Nonetheless, I would be hard pressed to suggest a power boat in this size range that I would rather have for boating the bay area.
 
I routinely run my 22 cruiser in SF bay and although it is not always comfortable, I always feel safe. Like others have mentioned, the key is just to slow down when there is a lot of wind chop or through the standing waves that often occur in Raccoon Strait. On a few times in the summer when it is really blowing through the gate, I have been the only power boat in sight except for the ferries and other large boats. Nice to have the wallas heater in the winter time too.
 
Well, here's how Journey On in San Francisco went. In the afternoon, when the wind kicks up, the cabin is great, and in the morning everyone can sit in the cockpit enjoying the day, whilst we cruise along. The hull shape is fast in the morn, and when you slow down in the afternoon the hull handles everything with elan.

We went to Sauslito last year and went out under the Golden /gate, out to Pt Bonita(?). Great ride and the C-Dory handled it well.

No comment on twins vs singles.

Boris[/url]
 
Items to specifically look at include any cracks on the inside of the splash well. Took for water intrusion where transducer may have been located, also around engine mounting bolts. Look at the deck hatch and for soft core around the hatches. One of the problems with moisture meters is that near metal they do read high, even if no moisture.

Remember the C Dory is a modified semi dory. This means that it is a very low deadrise boat. It will pound if going into more that a certain height of chop--and the tolerance is variable. I would suggest that you sea trial the boat on a typical afternoon on SF bay. We were only there once with the 25, and it was a bit wet and choppy in the PM running from Angel Island to Jack London Square--but didn't slow down. I have been in the bay in larger sailboats, during days, when I felt it would be uncomfortable in a C Dory.
Yes, it is very safe and seaworthy.

When running in AK out of a month, we had to hole up one day, and fall in behind a fishing trawler one day. In our own bays the Tom Cat runs much better in the chop than either the 25 or the 22.
 
Bob of Thataway -- You were (and I think still are) involved in threads about rot around the cockpit hatches and the leaky cockpit hatch problems. How would you address those during the survey? I am not the craftsman you appear to be and I do not want to spend thousands to eliminate leaks if that's something the seller should fix in a 2006 boat described as basically "new."
 
I installed the new hatches yesterday--will get the photos up shortly. But, as projects go, replacing the hatches is an easy one. The cut out remains the same. You can fill the old holes with Marine Tex, (cheap and easy). The balsa core should be dried out--before replacing the hatch--but again not complicated.

Just had a life time of practice working on glass boats--started in the early 50's at a Y camp on some demo Glasspars. (Wooden boats since 1940 helping my father).

As for survey--if the seller will allow, I would have several of the outboard screws backed out and see if they are wet. At the same time, use a moisture meter around the edge of the hatch. Any metal will increase the moisture meter reading, so it can be falsely elevated by the presence of screws. You probably will not see anything by sounding it out. Take a hose and see if the hatch leaks when washed down. If it leaks, there is a good chance the hatch should be replaced.
 
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