We're baaaack!

cdory25

New member
John and Karen Provost (formerly of 'Blues Cruiser') are back in the fold with a new (newer) boat and a new dog (Meadow is 8 months now). We bought the 2008 Venture 23 currently named Sea-Jo.

The boat had obviously been sitting on the hard for quite a while. On our maiden voyage we made it 200 yards from the ramp and it died. Had to be towed back. Seems to be a fuel problem though it ran fine on the trailer. It has a fuel water separator so it wouldn't be dirt or water would it?. I drained a bit from the bowl and the Stabil treated gas looks like beer but no water in it. Any ideas on what to do next How long does treated gas last? When it stops raining I'll try starting with starting fluid.
 
How old is the gas?. Might need to replace and flush the tank. I like Racor water and gas filters with a clear bowl on the bottom to check for water. If E0 or I call it REC gas is available, start using it.
Replace fuel filter under cowling. I use Yamaha Ring Free to help keep motor clean. I would try these items first before cleaning the VST and injectors
 
John and Karen, Welcome and Congrats on the return and new to you 23. Sounds like you had a wonderful start, and you are back on the dock, safe and sound :wink: It's going to get better from here.

Any idea how long it sat, unused? I am going to assume it is a EFI engine so carb fouling should not be an issue. Old gas, maybe :roll: I treat mine with a pretty heavy dose of both Blue Marine Stabil and Startron and have had super results (ie starts at the first crank and runs when I want it too) every time, but with the longest at nearly nine months. When I am running regularly, (tanks down to 1/3 or 1/4) and fueling right away to do the same, as in cruising for several days to weeks, I add Yamaha RingFree instead of the Stabil mixture.

The Stabil says a year at the storage mix level. I would trust it to then, but probably put in a double strength dose.

Was it an electrical failure: battery(ies), connections, electric output from the outboard or connections?

Was there a kicker on board? And did you try to start it as well? Does it have a separate fuel supply?

Doesn't really sound like either of those but have to consider all possiblities to start with. Probably easier to eliminate the electrical stuff first.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
John & Karen, sorry for your troubles with your new-to-you boat. When you get it all sorted out and have some time on the water I will be interested in your comparisons of your new boat with your old. I just bought a C-25 and looked long and hard at the V-23. There is a lot to like there. Good luck with it.
 
When I bought my first C Cory it had been setting for some time . When we took it out for a sea trial it ran fine at low speed but when I tried to come up to plain it would spet and spuder and then die . The owner agreed to cover the cost to get it fixed so I took it to the shop and they rebuilt the carbs. The needles are so small they get plugged up very easy after setting to long even with treated gas
 
When I bought my first C Cory it had been setting for some time . When we took it out for a sea trial it ran fine at low speed but when I tried to come up to plain it would spet and spuder and then die . The owner agreed to cover the cost to get it fixed so I took it to the shop and they rebuilt the carbs. The needles are so small they get plugged up very easy after setting to long even with treated gas
 
Thanks for all the replies! It has to be bad gas. Probably sat for a year or more. It has two 30 gallon tanks (one full, one half full). EFI engine... Can I pump the gas out at the water seperator?
 
eagle57":3o9xl8ep said:
When I bought my first C Cory it had been setting for some time . When we took it out for a sea trial it ran fine at low speed but when I tried to come up to plain it would spet and spuder and then die . The owner agreed to cover the cost to get it fixed so I took it to the shop and they rebuilt the carbs. The needles are so small they get plugged up very easy after setting to long even with treated gas

If that gas was "treated" by the PO, it may or may not have had the OB run long enough to get the Stabil mixed and spread through the whole system. I have heard of treating gas for storage by just putting the Stabil into the gas tank filler. Doesn't do much except appease the owners conscience. After having my carbs rebuilt when I first got my boat, (never knew for sure how long it sat, or the treatment mix), I have always been carefull to be sure the mix is well run through the system.

I wouls think you could drain the tanks by disconnecting from the OB, and use that line. Might take a piece of wire to block the ball open though.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
BrentB":3nyj4mw3 said:
How old is the gas?. Might need to replace and flush the tank. I like Racor water and gas filters with a clear bowl on the bottom to check for water. If E0 or I call it REC gas is available, start using it.
Replace fuel filter under cowling. I use Yamaha Ring Free to help keep motor clean. I would try these items first before cleaning the VST and injectors

I have not dealt with these water separators and cannot find the manual. It has a clear bowl and a drain on the bottom, top half looks like an oil filter. The liquid inside looks like beer. Unfortunately I drained it after engine stopped. What am I looking for in that bottom bowl? It filled up again when I cranked it. I thought only the water would make it to the sight glass but drained liquid smells like weak gas.
 
Unknown gas--get ride of it--pump out the entire tank. Call hazardous waste in your county or fire dept. The safest and cheapest way to remove fuel is to siphon it off--use usual precautions, ground the can and hose, no flame within 50 feet or so. I use a rig which I use to "polish fuel" which includes a Racor filter, and an automotive fuel pump--plus a small external battery, such as a U1 garden tractor batter. There is an ignition proof (no spark) on and off switch--and the battery is hooked up before any gas in the rig. The point of fuel removal can be from the hose going to the engine--get a hose barb to fit the discharge hose to the pump. Or you can do as I do--that is use a port on the filter, before it goes into the filter--There should be two in and two out ports if it is a Racor filter body. Use the "in" port. Use the arrow to determine which is "in or out".

There are 3 filters--Racor is the most common. Honda brand looks like Racor, and Sierra. Get the brand off the upper cartridge. You can replace all parts--and you should replace the cartridge since you have no idea when last changed--should be changed yearly--and the bowl drained before each run, if the boat has sat for awhile. No reason to remove the bowl, unless you are removing the filter cartridge. There is a drain at the bottom, turn it to drain the layer at the bottom, and discard this.
 
thataway":3vks3d6d said:
Unknown gas--get ride of it--pump out the entire tank. Call hazardous waste in your county or fire dept. The safest and cheapest way to remove fuel is to siphon it off--use usual precautions, ground the can and hose, no flame within 50 feet or so. I use a rig which I use to "polish fuel" which includes a Racor filter, and an automotive fuel pump--plus a small external battery, such as a U1 garden tractor batter. There is an ignition proof (no spark) on and off switch--and the battery is hooked up before any gas in the rig. The point of fuel removal can be from the hose going to the engine--get a hose barb to fit the discharge hose to the pump. Or you can do as I do--that is use a port on the filter, before it goes into the filter--There should be two in and two out ports if it is a Racor filter body. Use the "in" port. Use the arrow to determine which is "in or out".

There are 3 filters--Racor is the most common. Honda brand looks like Racor, and Sierra. Get the brand off the upper cartridge. You can replace all parts--and you should replace the cartridge since you have no idea when last changed--should be changed yearly--and the bowl drained before each run, if the boat has sat for awhile. No reason to remove the bowl, unless you are removing the filter cartridge. There is a drain at the bottom, turn it to drain the layer at the bottom, and discard this.

Thanks Bob!

I knew that would be the eventual outcome just needed to hear it from someone else. Does West Marine carry these?

regards,
John
 
cdory25":3q2k74lh said:
When it stops raining I'll try starting with starting fluid.


Don't use starting fluid on anything ever. A recipe for disaster.
@ - 30deg it might be okay used sparingly. Try a portable tank with new fuel :wink:
 
Check the shop manual or online, I expect the motor has a Vapor Separator Tank or VST and it has a drain screw at the bottom. Use a rag and slowly loosen the screw to catch gas then tighten the screw.
 
BrentB":2os1mhjw said:
How old is the gas?. Might need to replace and flush the tank. I like Racor water and gas filters with a clear bowl on the bottom to check for water. If E0 or I call it REC gas is available, start using it.
Replace fuel filter under cowling. I use Yamaha Ring Free to help keep motor clean. I would try these items first before cleaning the VST and injectors

I believe I have this type water separator. Is the sight bowl collect just water or can you see the water separate from the gas. or is it usually just gas if no water is in the tank? It has a drain on the bottom. It is fairly new. Should I replace it anyway? The whole thing? Going to West Marine today. Also need to bleed the hydraulic steering.

Thanks!
John
 
Just the filter cartridge. The fuel head and bowl are fine but is handy to have a spare onboard. I switched to a 2 micron Racor and after reading the specs, it is really a 5 -6 micron filter. If you see debris or water in the bowl , they change the filter is what I do. water and gas will separate in the clear bowl, and you will see it
 
Her is my approach
change engine oil now
Pump out gas tanks
flush them with clean gas, if possible
use Rec gas to fill
add Ring Free
replace Racor water and gas filter cartridge
keep extras on hand
Change them when you see debris and water in bowl
I would been changing them often on time
replace fuel filter under cowling
drain bad gas from VST into rags
Get it running close to shore.
If running well, run it fast as possible to burn gas
change oil again
 
ssobol":3gg6y07d said:
BrentB":3gg6y07d said:
Bench Tests of Five Ethanol Gas Additives Yield Surprising Results
None of the five products tested were capable of preventing phase separation, one of the most troublesome problems associated with ethanol gas.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues ... 692-1.html

It would be better if the referenced article wasn't 10 years old. Perhaps there are newer products available (although I do use sta-bil).

After 12 years using Blue Marine Stabil and Startron as mentioned earlier with no (ZERO) problems, I think I will keep not fixing what ain't broke.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
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