ross_ballard
New member
Hey Bill
The flex exhaust pipe that attaches over the stainless solid pipe vent is hard to seal with high heat silicone. I gave it my best shot, but their is still a small amount of water that leaks past the many ridges and voids from the flex pipe on this connection, during the harshest of weather conditions.
I guess we would have a better chance if the flex pipe fit inside the stainless solid pipe vent, but no parts are available for that. I gave directions in my photo album on how I deal with the small acceptable amont of water that still finds it's way into my bildge.
The Drian Hole Plug
The first day our boat arrived at the dealership I noticed the bare transom plywood that was exposed just ahead of the drain hole. The dealer epoxyed this for me under warranty at that time. I later pulled off the drain plug, drilled out larger holes for the screws, redrilled smaller holes after the apoxy set and reattached the drain hole brass fitting.
Keep in mind that if you cut lids into your step boxes to allow more storage, don't forget to drill drain holes in the bottom of the boxes and also vent them on the sides. I'll add pictures to show how I vented our boxes soon. Your challenge is to come up with a way to make to the lid waterproof.
When I'm reading about guy's trying to decide on what size of inspection holes to cut into there decks, think about getting you hand with a rag in it later if need be. Also how you can blow air down into this space to dry out future condensation after all leaks have been repaired. I choose 6" access holes and am happy with my choise. I can also stick a small flash light and my camera down into the hole to later to look at the pictures and see what is happening in that space. I have recognized no loss in strength of the decks.
Dave of "C-Voyager"
What a treat it is to receive first hand knowledge from the guy's who built these great boats. Thank you for your input and I'm looking forward to your future post.
Cheers
Ross
The flex exhaust pipe that attaches over the stainless solid pipe vent is hard to seal with high heat silicone. I gave it my best shot, but their is still a small amount of water that leaks past the many ridges and voids from the flex pipe on this connection, during the harshest of weather conditions.
I guess we would have a better chance if the flex pipe fit inside the stainless solid pipe vent, but no parts are available for that. I gave directions in my photo album on how I deal with the small acceptable amont of water that still finds it's way into my bildge.
The Drian Hole Plug
The first day our boat arrived at the dealership I noticed the bare transom plywood that was exposed just ahead of the drain hole. The dealer epoxyed this for me under warranty at that time. I later pulled off the drain plug, drilled out larger holes for the screws, redrilled smaller holes after the apoxy set and reattached the drain hole brass fitting.
Keep in mind that if you cut lids into your step boxes to allow more storage, don't forget to drill drain holes in the bottom of the boxes and also vent them on the sides. I'll add pictures to show how I vented our boxes soon. Your challenge is to come up with a way to make to the lid waterproof.
When I'm reading about guy's trying to decide on what size of inspection holes to cut into there decks, think about getting you hand with a rag in it later if need be. Also how you can blow air down into this space to dry out future condensation after all leaks have been repaired. I choose 6" access holes and am happy with my choise. I can also stick a small flash light and my camera down into the hole to later to look at the pictures and see what is happening in that space. I have recognized no loss in strength of the decks.
Dave of "C-Voyager"
What a treat it is to receive first hand knowledge from the guy's who built these great boats. Thank you for your input and I'm looking forward to your future post.
Cheers

Ross