Water Tank Level Gauge

Hey Warren! Do not worry about not knowing. It is all part of getting familar with any boat that is new to you, even if you have owned one like it before. Factoryies change things from time to time. It would be time well spent, all thow a bit unconfortable at times, to get down and look under your sinks and follow the supply lines and drain lines. In fact, with time, you will need to tighten the fittings due to the vibrations. Or, at least get someone trustworthy to do this for you if not able to do the flop-crawl routine. It is not fun, but needed on a boat with systems. Just like making sure your battery terminals are not corroading over. Part of it all.

Yes, I also think C-Dory would be wise to at least put out some type of diagram in a pdf file for downloading. At the Bellingham gathering a very pretty poster/advertisement cut out was shown to many of us on the docks. Real fancy and pretty glossy looking gig. Maybe they will now back up and cover some of the basics for the folks who have spent their monies. :idea :teeth :thup

I wonder how much they charged Steve for his bias? I never saw that option. :mrgreen: But thanks Steve for jumping on some of the first hulls. Without that jump of faith by some, many others of us would never see some new boats.
 
Steve, Thanks. Looking at your posts in the other link also helped me understand what is going on!

Warren. Go under the galley. You will see a hatch on the floor foreward. Open that. There will be the water pump, the shower sump, and foreward, and down, the water tank. It is fore and aft in the hull under the helm steet. The aft end can be accessed from this hatch. (you can also see the foreward end of the fuel tank also. Sort of a tight fit, and I find that I have to work down in there "blind" by feel on some items. I redid my hose clamps in this area, and had to change out the pump--the first one kept running, even after I pulled the valves and cleaned them.
 
Ok Here's the photos of the water tube gauge on C-Cakes (that is if I can figure out how to post them here. If they do not show up they are the last two photos in C-Cakes album.
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Saw the photo on your site. Thank you. The earlier boats didn't have this. I guess that with a valve we can do the same thing on the 25--but probablyl using a simple 3/8" tube, and a simlple valve valve to keep it tight normally and use the "level" when we are not using the pump.
 
Hey Bob, you gave me a great idea on my tank on how to get the rest of it to work. You said move the vent, I was thinking the inlet, but the vent is the solution. Actually, all I need to do is install another screw-in porthole on the other side to gain access to the high side of the tank and install a vent barb. Then route that tube into a "T" with the original vent tube, that should allow it to fill all the way up (although leaving a 'working level' in the inlet tube when completely full). That would be doable and not too much work, thanks!

Sorry for hijacking this thread on a side issue...I'm through now...
 
Not sure where the high end of the tank may be...you might check on the geometry. You probably know that this pastic can be "welded" and fitting are "welded" in place by spinning them with a drill after the hole is cut, until the heat is enough to melt the fitting to the tank. There is also a two part "plastic Glue" http://www.rplastics.com/plac.html which seems to work on these tanks also. Even cutting the hole very tight, and cutting a thread ito it, then "welding" with a hot soldering iron will work.
 
Loctite, which makes thread locking as well as a lot of other adhesive compounds, makes a glue that can bond the High Density Poly Ethelene plastics used in water and waste tanks.

Locktite HDPE Adhesive

(Scroll down the page for specifics.)

Joe. :teeth
 
Anyone that is interested in the Snake River water meter should check out this link.

http://www.ferriellosales.com/page5.html

There meters use the same technology with what I think is a better looking display. They also have an empty alarm which is nice. I talked to the owner on the phone and order one. He only charged me $120 which is cheaper than their website. I'll post back and let you all know how it works.

Bill
 
I have an early 2005 CD-25 where the water tank is located in the V-berth. At this point I have a leak from that area that results in water in the cabin. When the water tank is empty it stops leaking. My best guess is it is located as shown in the pictures of the 2003 models. How much space between the fiberglass bulkhead and the tank? I don't want to do to deep when I cut it open to repair the tank and install a hatch.
 
Like others have said - our 2000 22' has the tube for sighting levels - works perfectly. We just eyeballed the last drops (just enough for morning coffee left) and, sure enough, the next few foot pumps and she coughed dry. Just like looking at the fuel left in the tanks - eye ball right on the subject beats an electrical gauge any time.

Yes - both the fuel tanks and the water tank vent overboard through other 'tubes. Our setup is just like Barry's and was factory installed during construction.
 
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