water pump impeller

J

james

New member
Howdy all!


Last time I was out the tell tell stop peeing and I don't know the condition of the impeller since I bought her used , sorry "pre-owned".

The question is, I am somewhat mechanically inclined, should I attempt to change this or is this best left to a professional

It is a 2000 yamaha 80.

also what id the price range I should expect if I pay to have it done.


Thanks

James
 
James, not a hard job but involves dropping the lower unit to get at the water pump. I've done it on Hondas but not on your engine.

Is the engine overheating? If it isn't, it's probably just a plugged telltale. Take the cowling off and remove the little rubber hose from the inside, where it goes through the cowl and comes out so you can see the "stream". This sometimes has an insect crawl up in it or otherwise gets plugged. I keep a short length of coat hanger on board for the purpose of cleaning these out. I've lost the stream quite a few times (on my engines, smart alecs) but never had an engine overheat. I know then that's it's just a telltale problem.

Let us know what happens.

Charlie
 
Before you tear it clear down. Start by checking from the pee hole back for a blockage. You should see a few connections inside the cowling. You should be able to disconnect the pee fitting for better flush access. Flex the rubber tubes to loosen any crusted stuff. Use a peice of wire to probe. Use a little air pressure or water pressure and blow back thru the system from the hole. Then hookup the water hose/muffs for a test.

Muddobers, sand, salt, c-weed, grass/algea can plug'em up and it doesn't take much.

If you get lucky, you'll find a blockage.
 
Thanks all for the quick replys!

When I got home I hook the muffs to check it out, it did flow out then. Then I thought maybe because of the pressure from the hose might of made a difference.

And no it did not seem to be overheating when I was bringing her back to the ramp.

I guess best thing to do is take her out and see if she starts peeing.


James
 
Heres another question,
how often should a person change the impeller?
Click to expand...
I let mine go for 5 years and while it still worked the impeller had taken a "set" that diminished the performance. Too long. I've heard every year in salt and every two in fresh. Too soon. I'll service mine every two or three years. One consideration is that you don't want to wait so long that your bolts "freeze" and break when you try to remove them. Get a manual and go for it. Here is a Yamaha 115 getting done http://www.motorboating.com/motorboat/boatkeeper/article/0,12696,480308,00.html I used a Workmate to secure my lower unit. It really helped. IMG_2136.jpg
 
The job is pretty easy. Make sure you have the control in neutral. There are the visible bolts on the lower unit, and then the hidden ones under the adjustable trim anode near the back. The anode comes off by taking off the rubber cover on the top of the rear of the casing above the prop. Then there is another bolt you need to take off accessible from where the anode sits. It then slides off. The pump housing comes loose with 4 bolts (I think), and that gives access to the impeller. I'd check the seals below the pump to insure they are still setting correctly (freezing displaced mine one time). When you put the new impeller in make sure to lube it a bit and flex the blades so they tilt backwards in respect to the motor rotation. When reassembling, make sure all bolts, shafts etc are lubed so that they will not cease prior to doing this the next time. be careful that the shift rod alignes when you reassemble, cause you can assemble it slightly cocked, and you won't have the lower unit shift at all if that is missed( guess how I know). A shop probably would charge 1 1/2 to 2 hours for the job, plus up to $100 parts, depending on the pump housing condition. Usually they want to put in new gaskets on the pump, but mine have been just fine if you are careful disassembling. Good luck. Digger on Snoopy-C
 
If you have a mechanic do the job, try and watch. Not only so you can do it next time, but occasionally an impellor gets fried when underway--some distance from mechanical help. Always carry an extra impellor. Trash, plastic bags, etc can plug the intake and cause the impeller to heat up and then fail.
 
Unfortunately, I cannot locate a engine manual(west marine is out of stock,whats new)! and I want to get the impeller changed by this weekend.
I have one question though, do I need to disconnect the shift rod on the yamaha 80 2000, and if yes what do I look for.

Thanks,

James
 
Just another note on this. I am speaking from the inboard motor
point of view but think its the same with a outboard.
Never turn the motor with the prop. Use neutral if you have to
move the prop or pull the impeller first. You can damage
the fins of the impeller real fast if they get turned the wrong way.
Been there and done that but just once.
Bob Heselberg Eatonville Wa
 
The shift rod has splines, so it just slides apart as the lower unit is separated. Like I said in the earlier post, make sure that your carefully realign it when putting back together. It will go together without the shift rod aligned, and you'll have no shifting if you do that. Ron
 
One thing I found out(the hard way) when sliding impeller down the drive shaft, make sure it is lubed GOOD!
funny, everything I read on it did not mention this little factoid.
The first time I tried to put the impeller on I thought I would have to beat it down with a hammer and piece of wood.
got it down about 2" with everything I could muster, when I realized the key was not going to line up with slot. Had to pound the sucker off, lined it up, lubed it up, it almost fell on!!!!

Live and learn!(as always the hard way) :(


James
 
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