Water in fuel Suzuki

thataway

Active member
Today, I took Doryman out for a run around Perdido Bay in the Tom Cat 255. After a little over half an hour and 8 miles running, the Port engine quit. Warren suggested that I outline what I did to diagnose and reslove the issue.

I had changed the filters about 50 hours ago--and checked the fuel and water separator last time I used the boat--but had not drained it today. We have also recently added ethanol fuel at local stations. I had added Startron, Pri G, and Stabil (fuel stabilizer) about 3 months ago. Recently I had filtered the fuel in the tank of the boat I use almost frequently--and 18 foot center counsel--and put about 15 gallons of that fuel, plus 15 gallons of new fuel into each of the Tom Cat's tanks.

First, I drained the Racor filter clear base. Based on what I found there, I pulled the racor filter. There was definate water mixed with the fuel, as well as some flocculant in the base of the filter. I attempted to restart the engine, and was not successful. Since we were only several miles from my home, I elected to return to base, instead of resloving the issue on the spot. The reason was: I knew I would have to drain and prime the entire fuel system. I didn't want to drop any parts over board in the bay, where there was a little chop. I didn't want to spill the contaminated fuel (or any fuel) into the bay. At home I have a can for disposal of bad fuel.

After pulling the engine cover, I found that there is a fuel water separator at the back of the engine. This is under a shroud, which moves back and pulls up to clear the fuel water separator. The separator, is held in place by rubber retainers, and can be pulled free. There is a cap on the bottom of the separator which can be removed by removing the clip with pliers.
After this was drained, I then followed the fuel line to where it entered the injection pump, pulled that, and then flushed out the entire line until clean fuel was coming through. The engine fired right up and ran up to full RPM under load.

Tomorrow, I will filter all of the fuel in both tanks with my polishing system. I have to assume that there is still water in the tanks--and this needs to be removed as best as can be done. There may be a small amount of residual water below the pickup.

Lesson, I should have changed fuel filters more often, and should drain the water separator on the Racor each time we go out. There was a slight feeling that the engine was missing as I accelorated. I should have stopped right there and changed filters--but I also should have drained the fuel water separator on the engine every 50 hours, as well as the Racor. I do carry 4 extra fuel filters, and gaskets sets. I did replace the other engine's filter.

One other observation. We ran back at various speeds. To achieve 1 gallon an hour, we were going slightly over 4 knots. To achieve 7 knots--the max speed without lugging the engine, we were only getting about 1.1 miles a gallon! So going only 7 knots in the Tom Cat is an extremely ineffecient speed.

Photos of the fuel water separater and fuel lines on the Suzuki 150 (and 175) First is the shroud over the fuel water separator. Next shroud off, showing the fuel water separator. Next the separator out of its retainer and the cap pulled off, then the front of the engine and finally,showing where the pliers remove the clamp on the fuel hose going into the injector pump.
shround_support_clip.jpg

fuel_and_water_sep_2.jpg
fuel_water_separater_copy.jpg
front_of_engine_copy.jpg
fuel_line_into_injection_pump_for_bleeding.jpg
 
Fuel quality is getting pretty bad when you use all the best products and still get water collecting so quickly. Nice work Bob.
Marc
 
Hi Bob,

While you are at it and just in case you haven't done it, a suggestion is to check your fuel line vents. I have had two boats that were plagued with water in the gas one of which is my current 22 foot C-Dory. Both boats came equipped with non-shrouded fuel line vents. I replaced the vents on both boats with shrouded ones made by Perko, and to create an air lock, formed an inside loop with the vent hose in the boat where I had the room to do so (not the C-Dory). The interesting thing is that with my C-Dory it took three seasons of running for the water to build up to a level in my starboard tank to where it became an issue. Up until that time, there was no evidence of water in my fuel filtration system. The position of the vent installed by the factory for the starboard tank had the vent holes facing down but slightly forward. The port tank vent had the holes facing down. There is no other explanation as to why water only was a problem in the starboard tank. There is a picture of the replacement vents I used in my photo album.

Best regards,
 
Nice article on how to fix a problem. I am somewhat scared about the quality of gas we are buying today. However, I have a fuel/water separator filter in the line coming from the 100 gallon gas tank before it goes to the engine. It has been a year since I bought this new boat and last week I changed the filter for the first time. When I removed it I had a small bucket under and captured all fuel and what ever. There was only good gas in the bucket and no water. I was surprised and happy. When I had sailboats with a diesel tank I kept the diesel tank 90% full all the time. However with the gas that we buy today I let my tank empty to about 20 gallons and then add enough gas for the trip I am planning so I have new gas mixing with old gas. I also add the correct amount of PRI-G when I add gas. I do carry a spare filter with me. My CD sits on a trailer at my house when not on the water.

I also added a fuel cutoff valve at the fuel/water separator filter so I can shut off the fuel coming from the tank. This is to discourage theives and crooks from stealing my gas as the gas price goes higher. One time I did forget to turn the gas on and ran about 100 yards from the dock and the engine quit. I imediately knew what was wrong.

Please, keep the good C-Brats stuff coming.
 
Hi Rob,

That is the one with the exception that I purchased the version with a straight 5/8 tube rather than the elbow. West Marine's information on the one I used is: WM Model #: 281360
Manuf. Part #: 0506DP4CHR

Replacement is a straight forward and easy job.

Best regards,
 
I cannot be sure if there is water coming in through the vent. I have specifically watched for this. There was also a thread about putting a standard scoop cowl over the vent.

I am a bit reluctant to use the Perko product, since I use the boat in salt water, and this is a pot metal (zinc) casting chrome plated, which will be subject to corrosion.
 
Bob, that pair of pliers must have sailed with Admiral Perry...

Also, would like to have a chat with you about purchasing a C-Dory...
If you find time to PM me a phone number I will give you a call...
ad4hk2004 at yahoo com

Thanks - denny-o
 
Denny,
Those are parallel jaw pliers (been around boats for some time, so a little surface rust) I need to put some corrosion block on all of my tools which are not in bags currently--there is also a wire cutter on this set, and I believe that these are speciically designed for fishing. But similar pliers are used for gun smithing, tennis racket stringing and jewelry.
 
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