Hello. I am about a month into my C-dory 22 ownership and enjoying cold-weather cruising in the Chesapeake region. It will be hot before I know it, and I am trying to find an opening center window to replace the fixed forward center window on Runt. I have contacted Diamond Sea Glaze but have not yet heard back. I am considering a cabin vent as well. I would love to hear how you have made the 22 more hot-weather friendly, other than A/C. The ranger tugs have hatches in the pilothouse overhead, but the cambered pilothouse top on the C-dory makes that problematic. Thanks for any ideas! Sam
Warm weather mods?
- Thread starter qboat
- Start date
The camber is not really a problem: See the Thataway photo album photos 13 thru 16 show building a flat periphery of the cutout for a RV air conditioner on the Tom Cat 255. The same principle works fine for the 22.
There are marine 12 volt air-conditioning units, but I would put in LiFePO4 batteries because of the current draw. I don't know what the output of your alternators is, but the 12 V AC is power hungry and has the issues noted below with any water cooled AC.
On my long distance cruising boats I put a small Bomar opening hatch, one opening forward and one opening aft, on the roof of the Pilot house of the Garden Ketch and Cal 46. This helped flow of air with the breeze. You an make a cover for a sunshade which uses bungee cord to cover when you want.
The opening window both helps, with flow of air, and the small "Arctic King" window air conditioner works well there to cool the boat. (needs only the EU 1000 Honda generator.) The problem with built in water cooled AC in the Chesapeake is the number of jelly fish and other critters/weeds which will plug up the water intake. I had to put large nets around the water intake of my boat generators when in the Chesapeake to prevent occlusion of the water supply.
Also several fans--you want the largest you can use. We also used a portable battery powered 4 to 6 amp hr battery by Ryobi to supplement the 12 volt fans. This could be moved. Also you can made "no see em" net (I used army surplus tent netting, but bridal vail material apparently works. snaps or elastics for the inside of the opening window--and over the full aft door. For the aft door, we used magnets off Amazon to give a secure anchor for the screens.
There are marine 12 volt air-conditioning units, but I would put in LiFePO4 batteries because of the current draw. I don't know what the output of your alternators is, but the 12 V AC is power hungry and has the issues noted below with any water cooled AC.
On my long distance cruising boats I put a small Bomar opening hatch, one opening forward and one opening aft, on the roof of the Pilot house of the Garden Ketch and Cal 46. This helped flow of air with the breeze. You an make a cover for a sunshade which uses bungee cord to cover when you want.
The opening window both helps, with flow of air, and the small "Arctic King" window air conditioner works well there to cool the boat. (needs only the EU 1000 Honda generator.) The problem with built in water cooled AC in the Chesapeake is the number of jelly fish and other critters/weeds which will plug up the water intake. I had to put large nets around the water intake of my boat generators when in the Chesapeake to prevent occlusion of the water supply.
Also several fans--you want the largest you can use. We also used a portable battery powered 4 to 6 amp hr battery by Ryobi to supplement the 12 volt fans. This could be moved. Also you can made "no see em" net (I used army surplus tent netting, but bridal vail material apparently works. snaps or elastics for the inside of the opening window--and over the full aft door. For the aft door, we used magnets off Amazon to give a secure anchor for the screens.
Leaving the aft cabin door open in warm weather and having the berth hatch popped open lets a lot of air flow through the cabin when cruising. Adding vented ports to the v-berth that can be opened when it is warm is quite useful.
I have a window AC and a DC fan that can be used separately or in combination for cooling.
I have a window AC and a DC fan that can be used separately or in combination for cooling.
Thanks both. The pics of the camber relief are particualrly helpful. As Bob forsaw, my boat came with a near-new raw water A/C, which will have the occlusion problems he mentions as well as not being conducive to anchoring out. I will be considering opening ports of various kinds going forward.
My cabin hatch is cracked and needs replacement. I guess now is the time to consider material for the lens and whether some time of fan or vent should go in there. Thanks!
Is the Hontoon Island soiree still on, or did Ian kill that? I am sure it would be helpfull to see what others have done, if I can get down. Sam
My cabin hatch is cracked and needs replacement. I guess now is the time to consider material for the lens and whether some time of fan or vent should go in there. Thanks!
Is the Hontoon Island soiree still on, or did Ian kill that? I am sure it would be helpfull to see what others have done, if I can get down. Sam
Yes the Hontoon gathering is still on. I may be speaking out of turn, but even if "Hontoon" Island State Park is not available (which it appears that it will be), there are several other alternatives on the St. John's river not too distant, and still fun locations.
Unfortunately I don't believe that "Thataway" the C Dory 25 will be there. It does have a Nico vent solar battery powered in the lens of the foredeck hatch. There are lens kits to replace the plastic. The hole for the vent fan can be drilled in a new blank, or one made.
Not a lot of boat have vents put in. We used either the Ryobi or an "Endless Breeze" fan in the fore deck hatch--hatch open, can use a trianular sun/rain shade over the foredeck and have the fan running even in the rain. We cut 5/8" dowels, flatted one side so they don't roll and place under the fan blowing in. We had insect screens either made for the hatch, or used on the inside. Also there are "window shades (horizontal) which will keep any heat or light out of the foreword bunk area. (Some are illustrated in my album).
The areas for the camber are built up with epoxy and 6oz glass, but 1708 and polyester could be used.---just not as good adhesion, but would probably be OK.
Unfortunately I don't believe that "Thataway" the C Dory 25 will be there. It does have a Nico vent solar battery powered in the lens of the foredeck hatch. There are lens kits to replace the plastic. The hole for the vent fan can be drilled in a new blank, or one made.
Not a lot of boat have vents put in. We used either the Ryobi or an "Endless Breeze" fan in the fore deck hatch--hatch open, can use a trianular sun/rain shade over the foredeck and have the fan running even in the rain. We cut 5/8" dowels, flatted one side so they don't roll and place under the fan blowing in. We had insect screens either made for the hatch, or used on the inside. Also there are "window shades (horizontal) which will keep any heat or light out of the foreword bunk area. (Some are illustrated in my album).
The areas for the camber are built up with epoxy and 6oz glass, but 1708 and polyester could be used.---just not as good adhesion, but would probably be OK.
The lens on my cabin hatch cracked from the weight of the (not heavy) previous owner steping on it. I am considering replacing the lens with 1/2" mdo ply, and adding small opening portlights on the cabin sides. Has anyone else changed out the hatch lens for ply? Easy/cheap to convert back, if it does not suit me.
Plywood would not be good in the lens. Too many issues in sealing the wood, and the thickness is also an issue. There is a cover which might add strength. 
UV and weathering will deteriorate the clear lens. One can use fabric covers or a removable plastic overlay:
This product is made by Outland Hatch Covers. It will keep UV off the plastic lens, which is one of the main factors in weakening the plastic.
I believe that most of the hatches are cast acrylic. They are more resistant to UV and scratching than polycarbonate (Lexan). I have replaced several and also made very large 3/8 thick dark Polycarbonate windows for my Cal 46. (They were coated for both scratch resistance and UV).
Dow 795 silicone is probably the best sealant. (Some other architectural adhesives are not fully salt water resistant).
Hatchmasters and some e-bay sites have the new lens. Also a good local plastic supply or fabricators can make a proper lens.a
UV and weathering will deteriorate the clear lens. One can use fabric covers or a removable plastic overlay:
This product is made by Outland Hatch Covers. It will keep UV off the plastic lens, which is one of the main factors in weakening the plastic.
I believe that most of the hatches are cast acrylic. They are more resistant to UV and scratching than polycarbonate (Lexan). I have replaced several and also made very large 3/8 thick dark Polycarbonate windows for my Cal 46. (They were coated for both scratch resistance and UV).
Dow 795 silicone is probably the best sealant. (Some other architectural adhesives are not fully salt water resistant).
Hatchmasters and some e-bay sites have the new lens. Also a good local plastic supply or fabricators can make a proper lens.a
srbaum
Member
Sam,
I have written procedures for replacing the hatch lens and will share that with you via PM. Where I live in Virginia, there is a plastic shop within 20 minutes of my home, so I had them cut the lens. I have cut others before with good results, but I removed the risk of me fracturing the plastic, by letting them do is and their labor was very inexpensive.
In my photo album. there are photos of the repair of a hatch lens in my previous 22...
I have written procedures for replacing the hatch lens and will share that with you via PM. Where I live in Virginia, there is a plastic shop within 20 minutes of my home, so I had them cut the lens. I have cut others before with good results, but I removed the risk of me fracturing the plastic, by letting them do is and their labor was very inexpensive.
In my photo album. there are photos of the repair of a hatch lens in my previous 22...